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Old 08/18/2005, 04:01 PM   #51
old95er
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thanks for the heads up, dweakl01. . .

I emailed their customer service and hope that I don't have to hold my breath for too long!


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Click the red house. . .check out the new 120. . .tell me what you think!

Current Tank Info: 120. . .lumenarc stealth x 2, 10k Ushio DE 250w, DIY sump, mag18 return, with refugium,AquaC EV180 with Mag7, Dart /OM 4 way CL, JBJ 1/10hp Chiller, Fishbowl Innovations Moonlightsx2, Oceanus Poseidon ATO fr RO/DI, ozotech poseidon
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Old 08/18/2005, 04:39 PM   #52
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Have a lookee..
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=444094 lookee..


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Current Tank Info: 220, 4x250w mh, 4x110w actinics CS12-2 RC , 75 gallon sump, Calcium reactor, DIY 36" Kalkwasser reactor
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Old 08/18/2005, 09:57 PM   #53
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man, thansk for digging that thread up. . .it is exactly what I was looking for!


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Click the red house. . .check out the new 120. . .tell me what you think!

Current Tank Info: 120. . .lumenarc stealth x 2, 10k Ushio DE 250w, DIY sump, mag18 return, with refugium,AquaC EV180 with Mag7, Dart /OM 4 way CL, JBJ 1/10hp Chiller, Fishbowl Innovations Moonlightsx2, Oceanus Poseidon ATO fr RO/DI, ozotech poseidon
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Old 08/18/2005, 10:02 PM   #54
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That was a good job on that over flow.........Thanks for postin the link Derek!!


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Old 08/19/2005, 04:15 AM   #55
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great thread


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Old 08/19/2005, 06:19 AM   #56
DerekW
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Ain't no thang


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It's a small world........But I wouldn't want to paint it.

Current Tank Info: 220, 4x250w mh, 4x110w actinics CS12-2 RC , 75 gallon sump, Calcium reactor, DIY 36" Kalkwasser reactor
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Old 08/22/2005, 03:22 PM   #57
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question on the size of the hole saw. Do i measure the outside of the threads on the bulkhead to determine the size of the mm of the saw?.

thanks.


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Old 08/22/2005, 03:37 PM   #58
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pmui - What size bulk head are you using?

I drilled 2 of my 3 holes this past weekend. I could not tell you how scared I was drilling the first hole. Once I started it was super easy. I had 2 holes done in less than 30 minutes with lots of "stop and take a look" time.

I will be getting the hole saw for the 3rd hole this week!!

Major thanks to JustOneMoreTank for posting this and giving me the blind confidense I needed, so that that I too could do this.


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Old 08/22/2005, 03:40 PM   #59
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As long as you know if the glass is tempered or not, its pretty easy to drill.
Just got to remember to let the drill do the work, dont push down!! And keep it wet........


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Old 08/22/2005, 08:12 PM   #60
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Check out Marine Depot to figure out the size hole necessary for what size BulkHead you are planning on using... they make it easy for you because it is listed.
You may have to convert the inches to millimeters in order to buy the correct hole saw.
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_...tings_2.asp#bh


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Old 10/26/2005, 11:30 AM   #61
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great thread! Thanks for all the info!


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Old 10/26/2005, 12:30 PM   #62
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great idea thanks!


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Old 10/26/2005, 08:28 PM   #63
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No problem. Glad that this could be of help to you both.


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Old 10/29/2005, 09:53 PM   #64
billzie
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Quote:
Originally posted by H20ENG
Glad you did not use antifreeze.
Many people have misconceptions that antifreeze causes the water to be more heat conductive, or will magically cool itself. Pure water is the best coolant and heat transfer fluid- which is why every other materials specific heat is compared to that of water- which is 1.0.
Antifreeze is used for just that purpose- to lower the freezing temperature of the water (mix). It actually hampers its heat carrying capacity a bit, but that is the tradeoff for being able to not freeze up in cold weather.
I believe the intended use of antifreeze was not necessarily only for heat transfer but also for its' lubricating properties. However, it is a poisonous substance that needs to be disposed of properly and I would not use it. Glass shops use it diluted along with diamond grit/dust to make a slurry as they drill. The bits that many older glass shops use are not diamond encrusted, they are copper tube type and use the diamond grit to grind through the glass. These bits last forever, my local shop has had their bits for over 40 years! And, they drill some thiiiiick glass for commercial uses (banks, etc).

I'm contemplating how I'm going to drill my brand new Oceanic 30g cube, I want a Calfo style overflow but don't know if I should drill holes or a slot in the back for an external overflow box. I will also have a single hole for a CL.

Bill.


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Old 11/04/2005, 10:57 PM   #65
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Thanks for giving me the guts to try it out.


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Old 11/05/2005, 06:05 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally posted by causeofhim
Thanks for giving me the guts to try it out.
No problem. Did you finish the job or have you just got up the courage to start the drilling this weekend. Be sure to take some pictures and show everyone here on this thread. We would all like to see your results.


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Old 11/05/2005, 06:46 PM   #67
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I haven't done it yet. I need to order the hole saw and all. I will keep you up to date.


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Old 11/05/2005, 06:46 PM   #68
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I haven't done it yet. I need to order the hole saw and all. I will keep you up to date.


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Old 11/15/2005, 11:36 PM   #69
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I have been thinking of using a 8mm or 6mm bit to drill a number of holes/slots to be used to create an external overflow on a tank. Anyone see a problem with doing it this way? The dremel method seems like it would be a real pain to etch out all the slots, and the drill bit would at least give nice clean circles.

Thanks,

Bob


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Old 11/16/2005, 08:33 PM   #70
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FWIW, a glass cutting company published that you should not exceed something like 200RPMs when drilling glass with a diamond hole saw. i can't recall why, but that's what i did. very slowly and hardly any pressure. i was too affraid of cracking my new 55g tank. 3 holes went nice just that the hole saws werent 100% true. they wobbled a bit. i even bought a new drill of a different brand and corded, and it still wobbled. oh well.


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Old 11/17/2005, 07:18 AM   #71
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Just cut out one big slot like in this thread http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=444094

Then add acrylic over that with the slots


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Old 11/20/2005, 08:40 AM   #72
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super thread! thanks to all who have contributed their experiences.
I just ordered 35mm bits from lau from Hong Kong on ebay.

All I am doing is trying to create an overflow in my soon-to-be setup 10gallon refugium

I vote for sticky of some sort


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Old 11/20/2005, 11:43 AM   #73
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You don't want "slots" for an overflow. This has to be one of the most useless "fads" or "trends" in reef keeping. The only time slots are usefull is when the linear overflow length is to short and the water going over the falls is 1/4" or more deep. Making a wider overflow is the solution, then teeth will not be needed to keep critters out.

ANy time you add teeth, you diminish the surface skimming ability of the overflow. If it is already to narrow and teeth are needed to keep out the critters, then all the teeth will do is make that much worse! In conlcusion, teeth should nerver be used, as they defeat ther purpose of a linear style overflow.

Bean


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Old 11/20/2005, 11:49 AM   #74
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This has to be one of the most useless "fads" or "trends" in reef keeping

are u talking about a bunch of slots or one huge slot?


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Old 11/20/2005, 11:54 AM   #75
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I'm certainly not trying to be argumentative, but I do not see why slots/teeth in an overflow diminish skimming ability? If I id not have teeth, and have a 12" wide opening for the water to flow, this would be the same as having a 1/2" opening every inch for 24 inches. Exact same area for water to flow, only the teeth will keep my fish (my wrasse and hawkfish are jumpers) out and keep snails, etc out. Fishing my wrasse out of my overflow really is not a fun task!

I would certainly be interested to hear more about this.

Bob


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