Who wants a cheap, simple, Arduino-based LED controller?

[chrisfowler99]

Originally Posted by DustinB

Good catch. Substitute would be: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...flNtzYzlEag%3d

Better yet, no one can have enough headers. moderndevice.com has 5 packs of 40 pin breakaway headers for a good price. Make sure not to get the "extended" ones. They won't plug all the way in.

Aaaand...this one's out of stock until Jan 24th.

I think I may just visit Fry's to find one.

The rest of my order is in stock, but they're holding it at the moment because of that.

[oupulino]

Maybe it is silly question but if you don't ask you never find out.If you have led driver and using Cree whites and blues with the same configuration why connect the led all whit on driver and all blue on another driver (zig-zag) is there a purpose doing it or just for the look
Im about solder mine together and wonna find out the reason for all whites on driver and all blues on different driver.I have MEAN WELL | LPC-35-700 so I check before on the forum if I can run whites and blues at the same driver.In my opinion looks better and easier to run them white and blues together on the same driver of course Im talking right know about MEAN WELL | LPC-35-700 So is the rule about connecting them or just a look

[chrisfowler99]

Originally Posted by oupulino

Maybe it is silly question but if you don't ask you never find out.If you have led driver and using Cree whites and blues with the same configuration why connect the led all whit on driver and all blue on another driver (zig-zag) is there a purpose doing it or just for the look
Im about solder mine together and wonna find out the reason for all whites on driver and all blues on different driver.I have MEAN WELL | LPC-35-700 so I check before on the forum if I can run whites and blues at the same driver.In my opinion looks better and easier to run them white and blues together on the same driver of course Im talking right know about MEAN WELL | LPC-35-700 So is the rule about connecting them or just a look

If you're not going to do any dimming and plan on running them at the same current then you can mix them up.

But the reason for running them on different strings is to allow to dim one or the other to get the color balance you want.

[XSiVE]

Originally Posted by chrisfowler99

Aaaand...this one's out of stock until Jan 24th.

I think I may just visit Fry's to find one.

The rest of my order is in stock, but they're holding it at the moment because of that.

well give them a call and see if you can modify the order to get it sooner then order the others from modern device.

[chrisfowler99]

Originally Posted by XSiVE

well give them a call and see if you can modify the order to get it sooner then order the others from modern device.

They've got plenty of others.

I'm going to give them a call today and switch it with 538-22-28-4250.

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Originally Posted by chrisfowler99

If you're not going to do any dimming and plan on running them at the same current then you can mix them up.

But the reason for running them on different strings is to allow to dim one or the other to get the color balance you want.

Also, if you're using plug-in appliance timers to turn the LEDs on and off, having the two colors on separate drivers allows you to run the blues longer, mimicing the standard habit in this hobby of running actinics before/after main lighting to create dawn/dusk. Of course, with LEDs that are controllable, this kind of becomes a moot point - but with non-controllable drivers, it's nice.

Originally Posted by chrisfowler99

They've got plenty of others.

I'm going to give them a call today and switch it with 538-22-28-4250.

That part will work but it's WAY expensive compared to getting a bag of headers from modern device (or even sparkfun) and since you pretty much HAVE to get a bootloaded AVR from a place like modern device anyways, you might as well stock up on headers at the same time.

[oupulino]

Thank you know I understand

[chrisfowler99]

Originally Posted by der_wille_zur_macht

That part will work but it's WAY expensive compared to getting a bag of headers from modern device (or even sparkfun) and since you pretty much HAVE to get a bootloaded AVR from a place like modern device anyways, you might as well stock up on headers at the same time.

yeah...but my order from modern device is already here.

Pretty sure I saw headers yesterday at Frys...think I'll just have them remove them from this order and pick up the headers I need there.

[DustinB]

Fry's does has them in a 4 or 6 pack of 40 pin strips. Good luck finding them though. They have a fair number of useful things, but it's mixed in with tons of crap you will never use ALL OVER THE PLACE! I had to go to 3 very different sections just to some pots I needed.

[XSiVE]

I just put together my second board (the first was sent to me pre-built by our awesome project lead, thanks) and it worked first try.

If anyone is having second thoughts, thinking this is a big project to tackle, it really is not. The build is very straightforward, the only thing that tripped me up was the polarity of electrolytic caps or the LED themselves mainly because it had been so long since I had worked with components... but a quick google search to tell me the long leg was positive fixed that

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Originally Posted by reef2.5

Is the finished unit smaller than 3" x 4" I sure do hope so. Does any one have a finished product???

The controller is 8 x 5 cm, which is about 3.1" x 2".

Just read back through the few pages of thread I missed recently and realized there were a lot of posts about BOM substitutions. This project is VERY VERY tolerant to substitutions as long as you're getting values roughly correct and it's the same package size/pinout.

You'll pretty much need to go to several sources to get everything though, if you're starting totally from scratch:

1) A place like batchpcb, iteadstudio, seeedstudio, etc for the PCB.
2) A place like modern device or sparkfun for the bootloaded AVR, and likely the pinheaders and LCD
3) A place like mouser or digi-key for the generic components

[qy7400]

Going to order the boards from SEEED but just wanted to make sure I'm doing this right. From Eagle I just run the CAM processor (downloaded from SEEED), selected GERBER_RS274x and ran the job. The files saved are the ones I email to them to build the boards.

Did I miss something before I order them?

[XSiVE]

Originally Posted by qy7400

Going to order the boards from SEEED but just wanted to make sure I'm doing this right. From Eagle I just run the CAM processor (downloaded from SEEED), selected GERBER_RS274x and ran the job. The files saved are the ones I email to them to build the boards.

Did I miss something before I order them?

That should be it.

[der_wille_zur_macht]

A bunch of people have been asking so I'll walk through the steps.

0) Install Eagle. Become familiar with the basics. Get the Eagle files for the board you want to make. Get the Eagle CAM job file for the output format you need (typically, the board manufacturer will supply a CAM file).

1) With the Eagle project open, click the CAM Processor icon in any of the toolbars (red circle) to open the CAM Processor window:



2) Click the file menu in the CAM Processor and select Open then Job...

3) Browse to the location where you saved the CAM file from the vendor and open it. This will load the vendor's preconfigured job in the CAM Processor.

The Cam Processor window allows you to specify the properties for each output file generated. The output files are used by the board manufacturer to make your PCBs. Configuration of the CAM Processor allows you to tell Eagle what information to put into a given output file. In turn, each output file tells the board house what needs to be done for a given step in the board manufacturing process. Typically, there's a set of files for the top of the board and another for the bottom. In each set, you get a file to specify the copper (where the conductive traces go), the soldermask (where the colored, translucent paint layer goes), and the silkscreen (the writing/images on the board). There is also usually a drill file that specifies location and size of holes. Generally the board outline is included in one or more of the layers - some board houses want a separate file specifying board outline though. You generally DON'T want to screw with the contents of the copper or soldermask layers, but it's sometimes desirable to alter the silkscreen layers (some CAM jobs default to having component values and names, others have just names, others have neither - it's generally OK to change this to your personal preference).

4) Click the Process Job button (red circle).



A bunch of progress bars will flash by for a few seconds. Afterwards, the folder where your Eagle project is stored will have a bunch of new files in it - one for each of the layers specified in the CAM job.



Note that the CAM job file has complete control over what is generated. You aren't necessarily required to use a specific vendor's job file to generate gerbers for ordering from them, but generally it's a good idea. Though it is also a good idea to check if they have any specifications or requirements - it's somewhat common for a vendor's job file to make a bunch of output files that they don't actually need or want to make your board, so make sure you are sending the files they actually need.

[qy7400]

Thanks guys, boards are ordered.

[der_wille_zur_macht]

saf1 - you sent me a PM with some questions about this thread but it appears that you have the ability to receive PMs disabled on your user account. Please either shoot me a note with your email or turn PMs on so I can get back in touch with you.

[LOUIEB]

If anyone has left over extra PCB I would be interested in buying a couple,, shoot me a PM. Thanks Lou..

[S&KGray]

Originally Posted by LOUIEB

If anyone has left over extra PCB I would be interested in buying a couple,, shoot me a PM. Thanks Lou..

+1 , or I am just gonna order a batch myself and hopefully sell what I don't need.

[Names Brucey]

Interested in a board too.

[LOUIEB]

I am ordering part and having a hard time finding part number
(512-LM7810CT), anyone know of a replacement that can be used. Thanks.. Lou.

[Koyaanisqatsi]

Here is an array of possible substitutes from Mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors...z0y48cZ1z0xn56

I hope the link works. It's a drill-down into their part search.

[LOUIEB]

Anything from Digi-key, the rest of my order will be from them..?

[Koyaanisqatsi]

Can't link to Digi-Key's search, but here's a good one:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...=497-6039-5-ND

[LOUIEB]

Thanks Koya,
My Parts order is now complete, I just need PCB. Can't wait to get started..!

[chrisfowler99]

Got my board in today from BatchPCB.

Actually...I got two. Only ordered one. weird.