180 Gallon Transformation

foxrazr · 09/24/2014, 05:02 AM

First of all I have had this tank since December 2010. Like any reefing junky I have changed equipment around and like everyone else I have dreamed of upgrading my tank. This year I would upgrade I said but when I looked into upgrading big surprise, custom tanks cost more, a lot more. I started researching and got me thinking what about if I upgrade what I already have.

I currently have a 180 gallon reef ready Aqueon tank which is 72"x24"x24". It was nice in the beginning but with time the overflows in the back got crusted with algae and are hard to clean. They have become a distraction and realize they take too much space inside the aquarium. Current plan for the tank is to remove the overflows, drill the back or side for a bean animal overflow increasing the space inside and making it silent all at once.

Current tank stand is the regular of the mill pine stand you buy at petco. Again it was nice in the beginning but with time the stand has become my enemy. It makes my cleaning routine difficult because it is short. It is difficult to access the sump and skimmer. Also the stand builder forget or believed that the bottom platform didn't need any cross bracing and the plywood has bowed like a canoe. Putting my sump uneven. Current plan is to make a metal stand 40" tall and skin it to make it look like my kitchen cabinets. The metal stand is currently being made by a close friend of mine.

Last item to be upgraded is the sump. Current sump is an aqueon proflex model 4. This sump has an identity crises because it doesn't know what it wants to be. One day it wants to be a berlin sump. The next day a wet dry bio ball filter and on sundays wants to have a refugium. Through Aquarium Specialty I got My Reef Creations to create my dream sump. Sump is to be 48"Lx20"Wx18"T. I received my sump yesterday. Pictures to be posted soon.

I will post updates on the transformation. Stay Tuned.

foxrazr · 09/24/2014, 05:07 AM

Pictures of my sump!

foxrazr · 09/24/2014, 06:30 AM

Sump design: Had to be simple, access for easy cleaning, large skimmer section and had to have white.

foxrazr · 09/24/2014, 07:18 PM

I purchased 2 media reactors last year from ATB when it was going through its rough spot. I will be using them with GAC and Seachem Phosguard. I currently use HC GFO from BRS but i am changing to Phosguard as I hear it is cleaner to use. Any suggestions guys?

Fish lover · 09/25/2014, 01:15 PM

I didn't use BRS GFO but i can say that Phosguard is very good product i place it in the sump , just you need to rinse it with water.

Happy Reefing !!!

foxrazr · 09/25/2014, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fish lover

I didn't use BRS GFO but i can say that Phosguard is very good product i place it in the sump , just you need to rinse it with water.

Happy Reefing !!!

Thank You!

foxrazr · 09/25/2014, 10:50 PM

This is what I mean with the dirty overflows in the back and the stuff I will be working with.

Here is a shot of the gang.

foxrazr · 09/26/2014, 01:47 PM

Well I have been reading up a lot on the bean animal overflow and it looks like I am hitting my first snag. The drain lines have to be somewhat submerged and due to the sump design that is not possible. Any help will be appreciated. Also looking into maybe glass holes 1500.

Bilk · 09/27/2014, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foxrazr

Well I have been reading up a lot on the bean animal overflow and it looks like I am hitting my first snag. The drain lines have to be somewhat submerged and due to the sump design that is not possible. Any help will be appreciated. Also looking into maybe glass holes 1500.

What seems to be the trouble with your BA overflow? I didn't fully submerge my overflow lines. Here's a short video I just shot. I do see that our sumps are a bit different in that the overflow lines in my sump run into an anti-chamber before flowing over the socks. This may cause a difference in the way the overflow functions, but I don't recall seeing that it was required they be submerged other than to help quite them further. I may be wrong on that. Guess someone else could chime in.

foxrazr · 09/27/2014, 12:42 PM

Yeah I was under the impression that the drains had to be submerged for the bean animal overflow to work. I ask the same question in the DIY section and got my answer.

Bilk · 09/27/2014, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foxrazr

Yeah I was under the impression that the drains had to be submerged for the bean animal overflow to work. I ask the same question in the DIY section and got my answer.

LOL what was the answer?

foxrazr · 09/27/2014, 12:58 PM

Drains don't have to be submerged but they help with the noise and splashing when they are.

Bilk · 09/27/2014, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foxrazr

Drains don't have to be submerged but they help with the noise and splashing when they are.

LOL that's what I said in my original response. Good luck! The build looks really nice

foxrazr · 09/27/2014, 02:30 PM

Thank you my family grew by one. I will be changing the tank to a different location in the house for the added space. Since I am moving everything I decided to upgrade the equipment. I was concerned since I ordered a custom made sump that I couldn't submerge the lines but it looks like its going to work. I can't wait to get past the removing of the overflows and drilling the tank. Since I have never drilled glass before.

dave.m · 09/27/2014, 05:14 PM

Be sure to check with the tank's manufacturer. If it's made of tempered glass you may not be able to drill it, or might need special equipment.

Dave.M

foxrazr · 09/27/2014, 05:49 PM

I will. Thanks

foxrazr · 09/29/2014, 07:00 PM

UPS came today and dropped off the substrate I will be using.

Do you guys think 180 lbs. is enough for a 2-3" deep sand bed?

foxrazr · 09/30/2014, 07:16 PM

Another piece of the puzzle is complete. My friend came by today to drop off the stand. Stand was made with 2.5" square tubing 3/16" wall. Stand is 40" Tall. This thing weighs a lot. Now to get the por-15 and paint it.

Front Side and level in picture is 24" Tall.

foxrazr · 05/06/2015, 06:15 PM

After a long hiatus I am restarting the project again. A couple of things happened in this couple of months. Thankfully all good!!! Well enough about me this past weekend I got busy again and finally finished painting the aquarium stand.

iced98lx · 05/07/2015, 08:46 AM

Nice! I drilled my dual over flow 180 on one end to put in a BA type system. Works great and love that I don't have any big overflows on the back or in the corners of hte tank.

foxrazr · 05/07/2015, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iced98lx

Nice! I drilled my dual over flow 180 on one end to put in a BA type system. Works great and love that I don't have any big overflows on the back or in the corners of hte tank.

Do you have a thread? I have seen the drilling but I have never done it myself but I am up to the challenge!!

iced98lx · 05/07/2015, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by foxrazr

Do you have a thread? I have seen the drilling but I have never done it myself but I am up to the challenge!!

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...2164285&page=5

that starts where I drill:

Here it is plumbed:

Here it is now, a FTS you can see it on the right:

fishNcars · 05/09/2015, 05:41 AM

I'd say get a bigger tank, and leave the 180 as is and sell it to re-coup some$$ sounds like a big head ache for only a few extra inches of space.

but hey that's just me...

foxrazr · 05/09/2015, 09:20 PM

Thank you iced98lx for posting your thread!!!

FishNcars I would like to get get a bigger one but it would be very expensive. Where I live there is very little demand for big fish tanks and even if I was able to sell it I would take a huge hit on it and not worth it. It looks like a headache and it probably is but I know in the end it will be worth it to me. Also as you can see I already started putting money into it and don't want to lose that too! Thanks and wish me luck that everything turns out good.

foxrazr · 05/11/2015, 10:01 PM

Another busy weekend. Project continues moving forward. Had to remove one of the top braces since it isn't necessary. Made the base from 2x4s, made the floor from 1/2" plywood. Will be putting a 2x4 and attaching it to the top 2 steel braces for lights. Just a pic to show where things are. 2x4 on top 2 steel braces and lights not yet pictured.

09/24/2014, 05:02 AM	#1
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	180 Gallon Transformation First of all I have had this tank since December 2010. Like any reefing junky I have changed equipment around and like everyone else I have dreamed of upgrading my tank. This year I would upgrade I said but when I looked into upgrading big surprise, custom tanks cost more, a lot more. I started researching and got me thinking what about if I upgrade what I already have. I currently have a 180 gallon reef ready Aqueon tank which is 72"x24"x24". It was nice in the beginning but with time the overflows in the back got crusted with algae and are hard to clean. They have become a distraction and realize they take too much space inside the aquarium. Current plan for the tank is to remove the overflows, drill the back or side for a bean animal overflow increasing the space inside and making it silent all at once. Current tank stand is the regular of the mill pine stand you buy at petco. Again it was nice in the beginning but with time the stand has become my enemy. It makes my cleaning routine difficult because it is short. It is difficult to access the sump and skimmer. Also the stand builder forget or believed that the bottom platform didn't need any cross bracing and the plywood has bowed like a canoe. Putting my sump uneven. Current plan is to make a metal stand 40" tall and skin it to make it look like my kitchen cabinets. The metal stand is currently being made by a close friend of mine. Last item to be upgraded is the sump. Current sump is an aqueon proflex model 4. This sump has an identity crises because it doesn't know what it wants to be. One day it wants to be a berlin sump. The next day a wet dry bio ball filter and on sundays wants to have a refugium. Through Aquarium Specialty I got My Reef Creations to create my dream sump. Sump is to be 48"Lx20"Wx18"T. I received my sump yesterday. Pictures to be posted soon. I will post updates on the transformation. Stay Tuned. __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

09/24/2014, 05:07 AM	#2
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	Pictures of my sump! __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

09/24/2014, 06:30 AM	#3
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	Sump design: Had to be simple, access for easy cleaning, large skimmer section and had to have white. __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

09/24/2014, 07:18 PM	#4
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	I purchased 2 media reactors last year from ATB when it was going through its rough spot. I will be using them with GAC and Seachem Phosguard. I currently use HC GFO from BRS but i am changing to Phosguard as I hear it is cleaner to use. Any suggestions guys? __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

09/25/2014, 10:50 PM	#7
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	This is what I mean with the dirty overflows in the back and the stuff I will be working with. Here is a shot of the gang. __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

09/25/2014, 01:15 PM	#5
Fish lover Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Posts: 44	I didn't use BRS GFO but i can say that Phosguard is very good product i place it in the sump , just you need to rinse it with water. Happy Reefing !!!

09/26/2014, 01:47 PM	#8
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	Well I have been reading up a lot on the bean animal overflow and it looks like I am hitting my first snag. The drain lines have to be somewhat submerged and due to the sump design that is not possible. Any help will be appreciated. Also looking into maybe glass holes 1500. __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

09/27/2014, 12:42 PM	#10
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	Yeah I was under the impression that the drains had to be submerged for the bean animal overflow to work. I ask the same question in the DIY section and got my answer. __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

09/27/2014, 12:58 PM	#12
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	Drains don't have to be submerged but they help with the noise and splashing when they are. __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

09/27/2014, 02:30 PM	#14
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	Thank you my family grew by one. I will be changing the tank to a different location in the house for the added space. Since I am moving everything I decided to upgrade the equipment. I was concerned since I ordered a custom made sump that I couldn't submerge the lines but it looks like its going to work. I can't wait to get past the removing of the overflows and drilling the tank. Since I have never drilled glass before. __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

09/27/2014, 05:14 PM	#15
dave.m Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Canadia Posts: 4,276	Be sure to check with the tank's manufacturer. If it's made of tempered glass you may not be able to drill it, or might need special equipment. Dave.M __________________ My Gawd! It's full of corals! Current Tank Info: None. Nil. Zip. Nada.

09/27/2014, 05:49 PM	#16
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	I will. Thanks __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

09/29/2014, 07:00 PM	#17
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	UPS came today and dropped off the substrate I will be using. Do you guys think 180 lbs. is enough for a 2-3" deep sand bed? __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

09/30/2014, 07:16 PM	#18
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	Another piece of the puzzle is complete. My friend came by today to drop off the stand. Stand was made with 2.5" square tubing 3/16" wall. Stand is 40" Tall. This thing weighs a lot. Now to get the por-15 and paint it. Front Side and level in picture is 24" Tall. __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

05/06/2015, 06:15 PM	#19
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	After a long hiatus I am restarting the project again. A couple of things happened in this couple of months. Thankfully all good!!! Well enough about me this past weekend I got busy again and finally finished painting the aquarium stand. __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

05/07/2015, 08:46 AM	#20
iced98lx Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 2,258	Nice! I drilled my dual over flow 180 on one end to put in a BA type system. Works great and love that I don't have any big overflows on the back or in the corners of hte tank.

05/09/2015, 05:41 AM	#23
fishNcars Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Omaha Nebraska Posts: 102	I'd say get a bigger tank, and leave the 180 as is and sell it to re-coup some$$ sounds like a big head ache for only a few extra inches of space. but hey that's just me... __________________ Big Dreams, Small Pockets

05/09/2015, 09:20 PM	#24
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	Thank you iced98lx for posting your thread!!! FishNcars I would like to get get a bigger one but it would be very expensive. Where I live there is very little demand for big fish tanks and even if I was able to sell it I would take a huge hit on it and not worth it. It looks like a headache and it probably is but I know in the end it will be worth it to me. Also as you can see I already started putting money into it and don't want to lose that too! Thanks and wish me luck that everything turns out good. __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.

05/11/2015, 10:01 PM	#25
foxrazr Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Laredo,Texas Posts: 256	Another busy weekend. Project continues moving forward. Had to remove one of the top braces since it isn't necessary. Made the base from 2x4s, made the floor from 1/2" plywood. Will be putting a 2x4 and attaching it to the top 2 steel braces for lights. Just a pic to show where things are. 2x4 on top 2 steel braces and lights not yet pictured. __________________ Manny Current Tank Info: 180Gallon 72"x24"x24", Mitras LX7, SRO 3000,Maxflo 1500,Vortech MP60W x1, Tunze 6095 x 2, Profilux controlled.