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Unread 11/11/2017, 07:55 AM   #1
FishTruck
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how do I use an old Ca reactor as a second chamber?

I am planning on using an old Korallin calcium reactor as a second chamber, with the goal of raising the effluent pH a bit.

Question: is there any reason to use the circulation pump on the old reactor?

Or, should I just hook up the in and out, cap off the CO2, and let it run?

Or... should I pull off all the old plumbing for the bubble chamber and circulation pump to avoid dead spots (least attractive option due to increased work and ruining it reactor).


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Unread 11/11/2017, 08:08 AM   #2
C.Eymann
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The water will follow the path of least resistance, if you didn't have the pump running and just capped off the CO2, you wouldn't get 100% flow through the media, also would probably run into hydrogen sulfide issues with dead space water. If it were me, I would sell the Korallin as is or trade it for something more appropriate. You can easily make your own 2 camber with a container, ridgid tubing and some silicone.
Also have seen ppl use old Add on DI canisters as 2nd chambers too, Just fill the cartridge with fine grain ARM instead of DI resin.

Hope this helps


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Unread 11/11/2017, 10:38 AM   #3
outy
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I made one for 36 bucks without ruining an old reactor.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2657434


You just need a chamber with a lid, with 2 john guest fittings to put anywhere inline with your effluent. No circ pump is needed.


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Unread 11/11/2017, 10:41 AM   #4
FishTruck
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Thanks. I have the same thoughts. I might just try it with both pumps running and do something more energy efficient later.


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Unread 11/11/2017, 10:44 AM   #5
outy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Eymann View Post
The water will follow the path of least resistance, if you didn't have the pump running and just capped off the CO2, you wouldn't get 100% flow through the media, also would probably run into hydrogen sulfide issues with dead space water.
The second chamber needs no pump and the longer the contact the more PH is raised and the more time the media has to buffer. You will not get "dead space" from an up or down flow design.



Quote:
You can easily make your own
It is easy, but you had better do it right, if a leak develops and you have an ATO, you just killed everything while you slept at night. No silicone, high grade epoxy at best and you had better trust the bond 100%.


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Unread 11/11/2017, 10:46 AM   #6
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Thanks. I have the same thoughts. I might just try it with both pumps running and do something more energy efficient later.
That will work and be leak proof, which was my main concern.


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Unread 11/11/2017, 12:04 PM   #7
Breadman03
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I think you could make it work well enough, but I'd probably just sell it and turn that cash into a cheaper reactor and a few frags.


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Unread 11/11/2017, 02:02 PM   #8
bertoni
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You could try using the reactor as is, but I agree that dead spots might become an issue. If so, you could disconnect it, though. I wouldn't ruin a calcium reactor to make a second chamber, though. I agree that a DI canister should be fine.


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Unread 11/11/2017, 03:07 PM   #9
hkgar
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Should the size of the second chamber have any relationship to the size of the first chamber? I am using a Reef Octopus CR5000 9" Calcium Reactor. Could a DI canister function ok with this?


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 11/11/2017, 03:14 PM   #10
bertoni
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That's an interesting question. I hadn't realized that your reactor was that big. If I had a canister around, I'd give it a shot, but it does seem very small to do much. You probably would need something bigger. Sorry about that.


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Unread 11/11/2017, 03:25 PM   #11
hkgar
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Nothing to be sorry about (do you prefer Jon or Jonathon?), I hadn't previously brought it up.


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 11/11/2017, 03:40 PM   #12
outy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hkgar View Post
Could a DI canister function ok with this?
I'm with bertoni, way to small to be effective.

I built one that holds between 5 and 6 qts of media to go with my GEO. That holds close to that amount of media. Later I will post test results showing effluent PH verses effluent PH leaving second chamber.


http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2657434


I thought about 2 ro 10" filter housing plumbed with a 1/4" line going through the media to the bottom, but I'm glad I made my own for under 40 bucks.


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Unread 11/11/2017, 05:10 PM   #13
bertoni
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Nothing to be sorry about (do you prefer Jon or Jonathon?), I hadn't previously brought it up.
Either name is fine.


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Unread 11/11/2017, 05:29 PM   #14
outy
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For reference

my effluent is 6.85 currently leaving first chamber

my effluent is 7.25 leaving second up flow chamber with 5qts of media.


GEO 6/18 reactor set up about a bubble a second and effluent at a fast drip to small stream.


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Unread 11/12/2017, 08:01 AM   #15
FishTruck
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That's cool outy - great work! What is the alkalinity of the two effluents? Did it make any difference there?

I'm using a GEO 818 on a reef with some monster SPS - and barely keeping up these days. Pushing the reactor at full capacity - effluent pH 6.6 with the max bubble and flow rate that it will take without gassing out , the tank pH is running about 7.6.

So... I will need a pretty big secondary chamber to make an impact. Selling the old reactor instead of modifying it is the sensible idea - thanks for talking some sense in to me guys!


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Unread 11/12/2017, 08:05 AM   #16
FishTruck
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Outy... where did you get that cookie jar. I see that 2 gallon cookie jars are available. I might copy your design - otherwise looking at a $250.00 GEO secondary chamber.


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Unread 11/12/2017, 12:35 PM   #17
outy
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Quote:
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Outy... where did you get that cookie jar.
Under the sink for ten years, I was just guessing at size.

The top on mine opens up to 6" and the cap has an o ring.

If you clone, just go to plumbing store and but the 6" threaded end on one side coupler, and but the O0ring cap. Then if you go to a thrift store you can match up size.


Key to it all was using dremel to sand glass so the epoxy would get a good bond.

5 minute epoxy would work just as good if you are quick.


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Unread 11/12/2017, 12:36 PM   #18
scuzy
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Bubble Magus makes a second chamber for like 69.99 I got mine from fish tanks direct. Google then.


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Unread 11/12/2017, 12:43 PM   #19
outy
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By the way a 6" well cap fits right on the black threaded coupler fitting. It could have been done all plastic, but I wanted to save money and see the media


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Unread 11/12/2017, 12:45 PM   #20
outy
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Quote:
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Bubble Magus makes a second chamber for like 69.99 I got mine from fish tanks direct. Google then.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
That's the better deal out there on a chamber and its 5 X 18

I just wanted more media


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Unread 11/12/2017, 02:45 PM   #21
hkgar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outy View Post
The second chamber needs no pump and the longer the contact the more PH is raised and the more time the media has to buffer. You will not get "dead space" from an up or down flow design.





It is easy, but you had better do it right, if a leak develops and you have an ATO, you just killed everything while you slept at night. No silicone, high grade epoxy at best and you had better trust the bond 100%.
Don't get me wrong, I am not advocating shoddy workmanship and agree with no silicone, but with a controller with a leak detection module (I have an Apex) you can have everything shut down as soon as there is dampness at the leak detector.


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 11/12/2017, 02:57 PM   #22
outy
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Quote:
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with a controller with a leak detection module (I have an Apex) you can have everything shut down as soon as there is dampness at the leak detector.
Great idea!

Had no idea it existed


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Unread 11/12/2017, 04:10 PM   #23
hkgar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outy View Post
Great idea!

Had no idea it existed
Yup, any leak detected and my return, skimmer, ATS pump, and ATO pump all instantly shut down.
And I get an email notification.

https://www.neptunesystems.com/produ...detection-ald/

Is it the leak detection or controllers you did not know existed?


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 11/12/2017, 05:05 PM   #24
outy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hkgar View Post

Is it the leak detection or controllers you did not know existed?
Leak.

been doing this for 25 ish years, never had to worry about a leak, so I never researched it.

I have a PH controller on the ca reactor, and I have little faith in it. Usually just eyeball flow and co2 buibbles by eye matched to what the tank needs.


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