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07/08/2016, 09:28 PM | #3901 |
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so you know I used to have dinos ... but now there's really no sign of them in my system.
Until I set up this secondary tank.. and now it looks like they're in that tank only? the rest of the tank looks great.. and the same with the sump, etc... just this one new tank with CFL bulbs over it. is it my imagination? I know it's a black tub and brown stringy stuff on it, so it's not so easy to see, but I think this is localized dinos?
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07/08/2016, 11:35 PM | #3902 |
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I can't tell what is growing there, but I probably wouldn't be very concerned. The different lighting and flow likely is encouraging different organisms to grow in that part of the system.
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07/08/2016, 11:41 PM | #3903 | |
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Quote:
I could try a stain. I have a gram neg and positive kit. I wouldn't be surprised if my ID is wrong. It's just the closest I've found by looks. I also wouldn't be surprised if I'm right as there are marine peridinium species. It is a very persistent and tough dinoflagelet. Its been in my tank since 2009. Its survived many things including but not limited to uv, ozone (have ran this for many years), low salanity, high salinity, large pH drop, large pH and alk spike, and mold cleaner. I know I'm forgetting things as I am close friends with Murphy. Plus various other things I've done on purpose like algaefix, high pH, 2000+ Mg with techm, etc. It lives everywhere, sand, rock, water column, etc. Seems to like cyano and where I can find cyano I know I will find it. It does release at night. So, if I keep cyano at bay I don't ever visually see it. So, I've never worried about it as I found that to be easy.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
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07/09/2016, 12:31 AM | #3904 |
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I'm becoming very disenfranchised with high output CFL to grow algae or chaeto.
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
07/09/2016, 02:59 AM | #3905 |
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.
. I've seen the exact same thing in a local tank and mentioned it several times in this thread. . . Quote:
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07/09/2016, 03:10 AM | #3906 | |
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When I restarted my tank last time I was forced to use rocks that I knew would come with Ostreopsis on them. Lit with 7% of my normal reef lighting for weeks they quickly grew a bio mass that I was certain to be ostis. I did not even bother to take samples but I've got pictures. |
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07/09/2016, 06:15 AM | #3907 | |
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:-) I know they've found structures (lipid drops and starch grains) that can store enough nutrients for several generations of ostis, but that seems extreme. We knew they were good at exploiting reef lighting, maybe they were good at exploiting barely any light too. |
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07/11/2016, 06:24 AM | #3908 | |
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No need to ship it to US, I've got some. Mine couldn't give a crap about UV or blackouts. |
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07/11/2016, 04:28 PM | #3909 |
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so what is the verdict of using Metroplex and aquazole?
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07/11/2016, 05:02 PM | #3910 |
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There's definitely a reaction to at least many varieties in the short term during dosing and immediately after. Way to early to know long term or against all variations.
I'm at the of a 10 day double dose treatment. So, we'll see.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
07/11/2016, 05:38 PM | #3911 |
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And keep in mind if it is actually possible to eradicate dinos entirely from a system, which I really don't know if that's possible, if you add anything at all could reintroduce dinos back in. They can be in the guts of animals so would be hard to pre-treat.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
07/11/2016, 09:07 PM | #3912 | |
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Quote:
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07/11/2016, 09:22 PM | #3913 |
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This is something I was tossing around the idea of. If dino cell walls burst instantly when exposed to FW, couldn't you dip corals in DI water for 5 - 10 seconds when first bringing them home? Softies/LPS at least, from what I understand SPS don't do well at all in a FW dip.
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BioCube 29 - AI Prime - MP10QD Last edited by StrangeDejavu; 07/11/2016 at 09:28 PM. |
07/11/2016, 09:49 PM | #3914 |
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what's the point? It's not a coral infection. It's a tank infection... your ecosystem is sick, not any one coral.
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07/11/2016, 11:25 PM | #3915 |
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Maybe, I wouldn't put it past some kinds surviving that, but it wouldn't touch any that are working through the gut of some critter.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
07/12/2016, 11:35 AM | #3916 | |
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Quote:
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BioCube 29 - AI Prime - MP10QD |
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07/12/2016, 11:49 AM | #3917 | |
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http://darwin.wcupa.edu/faculty/boet...lab%202015.pdf Peridinium – Although most dinoflagellates are marine, Peridinium is a biflagellate unicell that may live in both freshwater and marine environments. Edit: I need to get my stains out "These primitive nuclear features are not visible unless special stains were employed."
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
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07/12/2016, 11:52 AM | #3918 |
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"At the light microscopy level Peridinium is most readily recognized by its “armor” (you might
think of them as fierce, armored plankters) and flagellar position. The armor, composed of cellulosic plates, may bear various types of ornamentation. The two flagellae emerge through a lateral pore (unlike the apical flagellum in euglenoids) with one flagellum extends as a cingulum in a groove called the girdle surrounding the organism. The other, shorter flagellum, extends posteriorly in a groove referred to as the sulcus. The two flagellae are both synchronized to direct the organism’s movement with the cingular beat propelling the cell forward and the shorted flagellum “steering” the cell. Though most dinoflagellates lack the light sensitive stigma, Peridinium is an exception and possesses a plastid bound eyespot near the location of the flagellar emergence. Peridinium reproduces both sexually and asexually. During sexual reproduction the theca or armor is being discarded (similar to a molting process) after which nuclear and cytoplasmic divisions occur. " Mine are exactly like that and explains what I see sometimes as empty shell casings
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
07/13/2016, 03:23 PM | #3919 |
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BOOM
I was wrong I've been trying to get positive ID's for many things I find under the scope. For this larger dino I haven't stopped looking for a positive id of it. Closest I've found was some type of Peridinium. I am wrong unless it too or a type of it has two longitudinal flagella. I haven't seen anything to indicate that any var. of it does. It's looking much more likely to be a type of Alexandrium. Which also has plates, a girdle and transverse undilipodium but has two of those longitudinal flagella. More researching. Under high contrast, closed iris, and green filter. Can barely make out the two flagella coming out. Otherwise it looks like one the entire time. Video that came from
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
07/16/2016, 01:04 PM | #3920 |
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Run down Update
Prep
Day 1 (Night of June 28th)
BUT the fact that with this treatment I saw very quick results on even day 3 and dramatic reaults with in 2 weeks I think says something and potential. What I did and have seen several times before would typically have seen the before metro outbreak look for well over a month to several months. I could very easily be doing something thats not allowing full erradication but will keep monitoring for a full 30 days(and longer really) keep taking samples to look under the microscope to see if theres any more changes.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
07/16/2016, 01:21 PM | #3921 |
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I would possibly even suggest turning off an ATS, macro fuge, algae reactors or any kind of algae growth areas. The ATS became an absolute playground and refuge for my dinos for this. Its the one place I knew to find any active ones though their count became a lot less there as well.
I would do that and not run any GAC, Ozone, UV, H2O2, or any other kind of oxidizing agents or methods. I would turn down the skimmer so its not removing any water that needs replenished with fresh saltwater but keeps aerating the water. I would stop water changes and dosing of at least iron products even removing GFO. And limit dosing to just Ca, Mg, and alk if required. Cut down on carbon dosing if doing so or even stop all together. Basically anything that will reduce or remove the metronidazole or feed or help phototrophs or heterotrophs as dinos could be either depending on the type. I would have added the filter socks from the very beginning. But not blown off surfaces daily or at the beginning as I saw an increased amount of encysted dinos. This could drive them under the substrate where medication may not be as effective. Maybe blow of surfaces 2-3 times a week. Just a thought on that. Toxins may be a concern and not blowing off the rocks daily may actually help reduce that chance so the dino doesn't feel as stressed or threatened? Don't know. Otherwise 10 days was probably a good idea and didn't see or haven't seen yet any major negative reactions.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
07/16/2016, 08:45 PM | #3922 |
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So does anyone have an explanation for why metro would work?
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.................................................. Current Tank Info: 210 Gallon "Mixed Reef" Tank (84 inches wide) |
07/17/2016, 06:00 AM | #3923 |
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Has anyone come across something concrete about how the poisons persist in our tanks?
Do they keep building up since our tank water gets replaced really slowly or do they degrade naturally? We have no way of measuring this and poison tends to be bad for coral health. If they can persist through boiling I'd bet they build up. |
07/17/2016, 09:47 AM | #3924 |
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The boiling process for me has got rid of them, my tank has now got back to normality.
The water is now able to go back to frequent water changes without the fear of dino explosions. I think it's good doing the current regime of experiments to see if you can beat them, but a week of boiling batches of water for me is the way to go..if you really want to beat them. Even if there are toxins or poisons present, I've had no adverse effect on any tank livestock..so if any are present, each week they being discharged from my tank by frequent water changes.. I've been dino free now for a good six weeks..and my tank now looks amazing again. It ll take a while but I'm sure when you guys get fed up, you may want to give my method a go you'll get your tank back to how it should be and you'll be able to enjoy the reef keeping hobby again. All the best Paul |
07/17/2016, 10:21 AM | #3925 |
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Breathing the steam can land you in a hospital.
Do NOT boil dinos. What did you do exactly? |
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