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12/22/2016, 04:11 PM | #51 |
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Alex, am so sorry to hear on your fish loss but happy to know that you are back in the game.
Btw, good progress on the coral growth, can we say +1" in just two mth? Keep it coming!
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12/22/2016, 06:09 PM | #52 |
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Uggg... I just lost a couple fish to ich as well! And may lose more..
SUCKS!!!
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12/23/2016, 05:09 AM | #53 |
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Alex,
I am really sorry to hear this bad news. I feel for you.
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12/23/2016, 05:50 AM | #54 | |||
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Quote:
That's it...about 3 cm in 2 months ....but....the yongei is a very fast grower. I think the most important thing about the sps untill now is that I didin't lost anything.....a plus is that the colors are very good and the corals are growing Quote:
Quote:
It really sucks. The fish was ok for about a month...swimming....eating by my hand....then, suddenly, was covered with dots. As I said, now is time to give the tank a little time. The corals are very well so, I'll keep with them for now. Regards, Alex
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12/23/2016, 06:26 AM | #55 |
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Some more:
milleporas pink and green 14-10-16. The day that both arrived. Mille green 25-10-16 Mille green 22-12-16 Mille pink 25-10-16 Mille pink 14-11-16 Mille pink 22-12-16 Regards, Alex
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12/23/2016, 07:53 PM | #56 |
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Man that is so weird that the fish randomly got ich like that. Sorry for your loss Alex
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01/07/2017, 05:45 AM | #57 |
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Some new sticks:
loripes blue efflorencis yellow ultimate blue formosa blue sky
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01/07/2017, 09:30 AM | #58 |
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Ich/velvet in a reef tank is a b*tch. I've had both happen, even with quarantining. Even letting a tank sit fallow for 90+ days afterwards. Considering how long it can lay dormant in a fish, 30 days quarantining doesn't really do much. Treating during that 30 days will increase the odds, but even then a lot of the parasites are bullet proof until they leave the fish.
One thing I have found, that I use long term as a preventative, is ick shield food. I put some in a tiny bit of water, turn it to mush then soak mysis shrimp in it. Then during the day 3-5 times a day, I drop tiny minute amounts into the tank and let the fish eat it. They seem to gobble it up like this. Even my copper band butterfly. I do this for three weeks. If I see so much as a spec on a fish I begin treatment again. So far, this seems to have worked. Although without correct diagnostic tools I cannot even say for sure if the fish ever had ich or marine velvet to begin with. And thats the biggest issue with treating disease. Without proper diagnostics we have no idea what it is the fish has. We can observe and make a logical guess, but it's still just a guess. The more I read on ich, velvet and other nasties the more I am convinced there are people who have had disease in their tank and people that will have disease in their tank. You can take appropriate steps to prevent it, but it's not fail safe. Didn't mean to hijack your thread. It just breaks my heart every time I see people lose stock to this crap and I am left wondering how, in this day an age, we cannot have some type of in home diagnostics, a vaccine, or a 99.9% treatment that's reef safe, invert safe, and even fish safe.
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01/07/2017, 11:57 AM | #59 |
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Very nice tank! Sorry to hear about your fish. Hope you get the ick under control.
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01/08/2017, 06:12 AM | #60 |
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The 4 Green Chromis showed no sign of ich....never.
Even the Yellow longnoose was healthy and feeding a lot in one day and then, the next day, was sick. As I told before, I'll give the tank a break to balance itself. Rush never worked to me before and didn't work this time too...
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01/08/2017, 02:59 PM | #61 |
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Fish quarantine - minimum 40 days. Professional aquarists often wait up to six months.
Dave.M
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My Gawd! It's full of corals! Current Tank Info: None. Nil. Zip. Nada. |
01/09/2017, 03:13 PM | #62 |
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I agree with the QT. Place lots of PVC in the QT tank to give them a place to hide, explore, rest. They will not really mind, not like there is a union or anything.
Keep in mind just because the item in there has been there for 4 weeks, and you add something, the timer resets for everything. Some people have multiple QT if they have things that are coming in at different times or non compatible fish in a close/small QT tank.
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02/03/2017, 06:43 AM | #63 |
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I've add no new fish untill now.
Corals (sps) looks a little pale and dull.....due to the lack of partial water changes and fishes to dirt the water. I'm beginning with water changes now and must add some Koralcolor/Koralle to darker them a little bit. Next month I must add a fish or two.... Alex
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02/06/2017, 11:19 AM | #64 |
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So I did some minor changes on the lighting of the system.
I put 2 more AI Vegas over the tank. 1 over the Small island on the front and another over the big island on the back. My goal with the unit over the small island was to reallocate the other 2 fixtures to get a better covering, plus, put the Hydra52 over the sps that I, against my initial intent, put on the small island. The both goals were accomplished and the sps already shows a better growth/coloration. The other fixture located over the big island has the goal of put some light over the capri monti that I hanged over the right cliff. It works with a green one but the purple one still remains in the shadow of the rock. I hope that it thrive anyway, and grow to the direction of light. Let's see...... I also changed the program schedule of the fixtures, creating 4 "groups" that are now individually controlled by the Director. The groups are: - the 4 fixtures over the big island - the fixture on the frag tank - the 2 Vegas over the small island - the Hydra52 over the small island (I separated this one from the two others because I want it running with more power than the other two, that are over the lps/soft corals) Another change was made in the "frag tank" (nothing to frag untill now, so I keep running it as an algae tank). As recommended by a friend, Leo Carvalho, I replaced my caulerpas for chaetomorfas. They're still a very small portion, but I didn't see any changes in parameters (PO4/NO2) untill now. This tank still hosts a walking Green BBT anemone. I let it at least 1 week here, attached to a rock and then move it, with the rock, to my display tank. All the 4 times that I did it, it starts to walk. One of the times, in the big island, between the sps... So, I give it some more time out to think in the frag tank. Also change the LED fixture. My "AI SOL" from RapidLED stop working, so I put a Vega Fixture in its place... To remove the drivers, the cables, the dimer makes the visual a lot more clean. And i like it. Plus, now I have a lot more option in color/control, which is very good. I think it's basically this. The system is running very stable until now.....no algae problems, almost no variations on water parameters. Alex
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02/26/2017, 05:56 AM | #65 |
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New fishes:
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02/26/2017, 10:41 AM | #66 |
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02/28/2017, 07:22 PM | #67 |
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Thanks Bulent.
They're very sweet....and I bought them 2 weeks apart from each other. After I put the small one they instantly get around. Here some more new aditions: anacropora wwc slimeball No ID white acro. Trully amazing ALL white acro....
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03/02/2017, 04:47 AM | #68 | |
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Quote:
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04/21/2017, 12:51 PM | #69 |
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Some news:
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04/21/2017, 01:28 PM | #70 |
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It looks fabulous Alex.
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04/21/2017, 01:32 PM | #71 |
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04/21/2017, 02:00 PM | #72 |
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Looks great, can already see how good it's going to look once it has filled out.
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04/22/2017, 07:30 AM | #73 |
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Thanks to all....
Things are slowly getting better.
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04/22/2017, 07:43 AM | #74 |
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Alex,
What are your recent nutrient levels? I like all that space you provide for your fish. So nice.
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04/22/2017, 08:04 AM | #75 |
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Some new sticks:
suharsonoi tenuis pink spathulata lokani purple sarmentosa squarosa Australian wild caught
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