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03/16/2012, 04:42 PM | #251 | |
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I was like.. "should I clean it up before I do the video?" -"naah.."
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03/16/2012, 05:20 PM | #252 |
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Hi vat is best combination for 48x24x18 reff please help thanks .
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03/16/2012, 09:06 PM | #253 |
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I bought the same chip
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220833165025...84.m1497.l2649 nice color and nice depth pentration Last edited by pdfrogman; 03/16/2012 at 09:45 PM. |
03/17/2012, 09:06 AM | #254 |
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I'm going to use 6 of the 10 watt LED's for part of my build. I saw the links for the ebay ballest and was wondering if I could use one, 100 watt for the six 10 watt LED's. Or would two 50 watt ballest running 3 of the 10 watt LED be better.
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03/17/2012, 12:50 PM | #255 | |
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03/17/2012, 02:32 PM | #256 |
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No - you can not use neither the 100 watt driver or 50 watt driver. You must use a driver that gives up to 1 A of current. 100 watt supply 3 A and 50 gives 1.7 A. If you connect them in parallel so you always have the risk that if a chip fails to destroy the rest. The chips should be connected in series and then they can run on a driver off 3 x 10 watts that you can find in the store pdfrogman links to. Otherwise you can use any constant current driver that provides up to 1 A and the voltage suitable for the number of chips you connect. A driver that provides 1 A and the variation in the volt is as an example 9 - 30 V can take anywhere from 1 to 3 chip with forward voltage of 9-10 V each. Another driver who leaves 1 A and gives 30 - 36 V can only take three chip in series (FV 9-10 W per chip)
Sincerely Lasse |
03/17/2012, 04:22 PM | #257 |
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Correction to my last post (256)
I wrote "you-can not use ..." and "you must use ..." . What I would write instead is that I prefer not to use these drivers for this will require a parallel connection of the chip. I prefer instead to serially connect the chip and then work with up to 1A of current. Sorry for the inconvenience Sincerely Lasse |
03/17/2012, 04:42 PM | #258 |
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Any one have any advice on 48x24x18 tank i was think 3x50W hybrid chip , 12x3 uv bridluxe, 6xrb 3wled + 6xcw 3 w led , oll use 60-48P meanwell drivers for now . I can use 3 heatsinks 5x9 each cona have 2 fans , 1 50W , 4 UV , 2 RB and 2 CW vhot you think .
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03/17/2012, 08:31 PM | #259 |
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So, like many others I'm very intrested in these leds. I'm wondering if I'm not looking at the same leds or not? I followed the links posted and all of the ones I looked at say they are good for 30,000 hours. Aren't the cree leds good for 50,000 hours?
Also, I'm all for more power but.....without dimming these things down. Why are you all after such high par readings? How fast does those par reading decrease as you move away from the center "hot spot" of the led? Im setting up a simple 40b and I don't need all that par. At first I was thinking of doing two 50 watt, 16 or 20k, with several 3 watt blues or a few 10 watt blues. I'm now wondering if my Lps softie tank build would be happy with the 20 watt emitters? Although i will have a clam or two. |
03/17/2012, 10:33 PM | #260 |
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Alright... Last piece of the puzzle....optics. I am going to hang a 10 inch wide fixture 24 inches from the aquarium that is 36 inches wide. I am getting multiple 10 watt and 50 watt LED. What would be more appropriate if I want max coverage.
What I'm considering, no optics on 10 watt leds and 90 deg on 50 watt leds. What's do u guys think? |
03/18/2012, 04:05 AM | #261 | |
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The LED's start putting out less light after about 30k hours. They will still work though. It's the same with all high power LED's. I think the Cree LED's will last longer. Although I don't have any grasp on how fast they will deteriorate after the 30k / 50k lifetime has been reached. We are not really after the very high par readings. We are merely showing the potential and what a certain lens will do. Lasse is going to use some lights in a 4 meter deep tank though so for him extreme par would be nice. How far from the center the intensity starts to decrease I don't know, Lasse do you have any good readings? I think for your tank you can do the 50's but without lenses.
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03/18/2012, 04:14 AM | #262 | |
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03/18/2012, 04:41 AM | #263 | |
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For me, the lifetime is not the most important - My work includes light sources and I have yet to experience a light source that meets the manufacturer's promises If my LED works in 20 000 hour, this means 5 years. At that time, developments in the LED has gone so far that there are better and more efficient LEDs on the market so it has probably been the time to change before 5 years Otherwise, I agree with you - I prefer several small LED (10 watts) because it increases your possibilities to control the ramp. Being able to dim LED is very beneficial, especially when to introduce new corals. The reason that I built my 100 watt is that I'm looking for a solution for deeper tanks where you want a lightdown to the bottom and more efficient light sources than the MH. And also for tanks where you want to have good coral growth at depths of 1 m (39 inches) It is important to emphasize that the ideal solution does not exist - there are several good solutions in terms of LED lighting for saltwater aquariums. Sincerely Lasse Last edited by Lassef; 03/18/2012 at 05:10 AM. |
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03/18/2012, 05:04 AM | #264 | |
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By the way - my canopy is now build Sincerely Lasse Last edited by Lassef; 03/18/2012 at 05:27 AM. |
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03/18/2012, 07:00 AM | #265 |
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Lasse,
I like your fixture. It looks like it could be used as a modern type pendent fixture. I have a question, I was going to do a build with 3W Crees. In the fixture I was going to use aprox. 256 LEDs. which comes to 768W of light. Now I'm looking at the 100W multichip LEDs. In their specks they say that you can run them up to 7A which would put out 252W. So instead of buying 7 100W chips to equal the 3W Crees, if I run the 100W chips at 5A in which they would put out 180W, then I would only need 4 x 100W LEDs to get 720W total. Now the question is, by running the LEDs above the 100W rating, how much life of chip will be taken away? I am also of the same mind set, that if you get 5 years out of them, I think it would be time for an up-grade. Thanks---RICK |
03/18/2012, 07:29 AM | #266 |
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Any one have any advice on 48x24x18 tank i was think 3x50W hybrid chip , 12x3 uv bridluxe, 6xrb 3wled + 6xcw 3 w led , oll use 60-48P meanwell drivers for now . I can use 3 heatsinks 5x9 each cona have 2 fans , 1 50W , 4 UV 3w, 2 RB 3w and 2 CW 3w vhot you think . Cont some one help me before i place order please.
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03/18/2012, 07:39 AM | #267 | |
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Sincerely Lasse |
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03/18/2012, 07:42 AM | #268 |
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Sorry Blesk - I missed your question - I have to do some calculation because here in Europe all of our references is in metric form - I´ll be back....
Sincerely Lasse |
03/18/2012, 07:50 AM | #269 |
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Thanks Lasse is 121.9 cm x 61 cm x 45,7 cm is the tank dimension .
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03/18/2012, 08:06 AM | #270 | |
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/220833169655...84.m1497.l2649 I went bear bones to test the waters I had some 4X4 heat sinks and 80MM fans so I have a temporary fixture set up. I took the MH socket and bulb out of one of my lunenarcs and mounted chip and heat sink in the lunemarc I have since ordered 3 more set ups one hybrid chip and 2 10000K along with the 90degree optics. I expect I will be dropping my energy consumption from 1125 watts of lighting to 200 watts |
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03/18/2012, 08:12 AM | #271 | |
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The smaller ones I do not know their max current. You have a rather swallow tank (18) so the light will penetrate rather well I suppose, probably you should use lenses to the multichip. You will have arround 65 watts of heat to transport out from each heatsink - it will probably work well - but you have to test. If it enough of light - it depends but I´ll think so You will have around 200 watts in a 18 deep tank and 48 in lenght. I have around 350 watt in a tank that is 48 x 24 X 25.5 and don't run them in full strenght, and I use 10 watts and without lenses. Sincerely Lasse |
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03/18/2012, 08:52 AM | #272 | |
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Last edited by blesk; 03/18/2012 at 09:03 AM. |
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03/18/2012, 09:20 AM | #273 | |
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Thanks for the input. I'm looking at a MeanWell HLG-320-36B driver. The B indicates that the driver will dim. It puts out 36V and 8.90A, so if I would run 2x100W LEDs they would run at 4.45A or 160W. If I run 3x100W LEDs they would run at 2.9A or 106W. I am still up in the air what combo I will use. I am going to use some 50W RB's and some 20W UV's also the 100's will be the Hybrid type. I'm trying to figure the most cost effective set up with the number of drivers in relation to the number of LEDs. In your other post regarding sizing heat sink cooling wattage vs the LED output wattage. I guess you need to know in advance how hard you intend to drive the LEDs so you can size your Heat Sink correctly.(starting to feel like an engineer) I too like the idea of having a set up with more drivers so you can dial in your color and intensity of your lighting. I am planning on using this controller that another RC member is using. Let me know what you think. Sorry for the long post. Thanks---Rick http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...2096705&page=5 POST#103 |
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03/18/2012, 11:52 AM | #274 |
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Questions
Thanks Lassef and maglofster,
I am in a process building the 67 gal rimless tank (48"x18"x16") from glasscages.com. I plan to build a light with the following items. Please let me know if you have any other recommendation. 1) buy 5 of 10wat LEDs - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=270927199097 2) using this driver - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=270926282808 Should I use mean well or other drivers instead? Thanks, Ken |
03/18/2012, 12:00 PM | #275 |
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It seems like that controller only runs with drivers that is dimable through a 1-10 V signal (not PWM). This type of dimable drivers has one drawback - it does not shoutdown completly - the relay ports is needed or separate timers for the drivers power shoutdown.
I'm not too fond of parallel connected LEDs, but after a discussion with a friend, I am a bit easier in terms of my opposition to the parallel connection. The problem with the parallel connection is that if any line breaks so the current will spread out over those who remain and could even burn them. If you work with individual LED with good effect (Cree XLM as an example) then a easily can disaster occur. Multi Chipp has already parallel connections in itself and if a single chain is broken so it is actually not such a violent current increase. It is also quite unlikely that an entire multi-chip break - but if this happens - well then you have problems. Sincerely Lasse |
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