My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges

[Wally.B]

INTERESTING OBSERVATION (Rough Frag Trip Possible Explaination) All Same Frag Source

I just noticed this when I reviewed my History.

Thing were going well till I got confidence to get more Frags.

I was frustrated as things were deteriorating, so didn't notice the fact that All/Majority of the Frags that gave me problems over the last while were from the Same Supplier.

All original Frags, and a couple I got elsewhere are dong fine, or So-So.

Long shot, but it may be the Frag Supplier has different Water Parameters and the transition to my Tank was some kind of shock.

I did not acclimatize the corals, and I never have. I also did not Dip Them (I stopped dipping recently).

I accept the Red Dragon going since I've never been able to keep one.
I could see the Pink Cadillac going since it was tiny and maybe hard to keep.
The Gomezi should have been fairly hardy.
But two Sunset Acros purchased separately from same supplier seems kind of a coincidence.

In general they all bleached pretty fast considering my tank Water Parameter are very stable.
They bleached faster then I've every had a Frag Bleach. Usually my Frags have slow deaths.

I will talk to Supplier and see if other purchasers had similar issue.

[sensei]

Wally,

Didn´t this frags come from GTA? I ask because his frags looks healthy
I doubt that you would shock all the corals if they were healthy because your water parameters (alk and nutrients) seem preatty normal.

If I were you, I would follow Ed recomendations by the book and stop doing changes until sps are proveen to grow and maintain color in your sps tank. I had a lot of problems starting my 600g sps system and if it was not because of his advice I would still be having a lot problems.

Lights were a mayor issue in my tank. After all I have been through, I believe you should NOT do any leds for the moment and just do the Halides and the T5s but ALL LIGHTS ON AT SAME TIME as he recomended. You will have to measure par again with halides and T5s on at same time to be sure you are in the range.


once you have the lights as Ed recomended, you can try 2 or 3 test frags and see how it goes.

regards

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by sensei

Wally,

Didn´t this frags come from GTA? I ask because his frags looks healthy
I doubt that you would shock all the corals if they were healthy because your water parameters (alk and nutrients) seem preatty normal.

You are correct about GTA's corals. The one's that I still have are doing fine.
The Green Slimer which is doing well, I got from GTA last week.
So I do love GTA's collection and healthy quality.

It's the new ones I got from Somewhere else that I lost quickly, recently. The "Sunsets", the "Pink Calidac", the "Gomezi"

Originally Posted by sensei

If I were you, I would follow Ed recomendations by the book and stop doing changes until sps are proveen to grow and maintain color in your sps tank. I had a lot of problems starting my 600g sps system and if it was not because of his advice I would still be having a lot problems.

Lights were a mayor issue in my tank. After all I have been through, I believe you should NOT do any leds for the moment and just do the Halides and the T5s but ALL LIGHTS ON AT SAME TIME as he recomended.

Yes, I am listening to Ed's advice.
I did set my Lights as he recommends (T5/MH all on). NO more staggering. No more High Power LED.

I still have to work to slowly Lower the Fixture Height and to Bring Up the Ballast Power up to 250W (Currently at 175W, but increased from 150W).

What I'm doing is Lowering the Fixture slowly. Then just before increasing Power, raise fixture, and then lower for the Final Level.

Originally Posted by sensei

You will have to measure par again with halides and T5s on at same time to be sure you are in the range.

The recent PAR reading I did (extensively) were with only MH and T5. (LED separately).
I measure MH at (150W, 175W, 250W) at many Heights.

So I know my Target Height at 250W Setting.

Originally Posted by sensei

once you have the lights as Ed recomended, you can try 2 or 3 test frags and see how it goes.

That is the plan, and for me to get to 300+ Par at mid level it will take a while.

NO MORE NEW FRAGS till I am at Proper Photo Period and Intensity.

I do have a few Frags in Frag Tank that I can throw in, since No risk.

BTW. The Frag Pieces that I threw into my Kitchen Mixed Tank are looking Great (Health,Color,PE). I'll post a better photo.

[Wally.B]

LIGHTING (To Target PARS (Slow/Careful) RAMP UP) How quickly? What Increments?

Originally Posted by Big E

Hi Wally,

....... Get the fixture down to a height where you're at 300-350 par at mid level in the tank. Early on you had the fixture way too high, but I think you know that now. You can work the LEDs back into the mix once the corals are doing good for a few months.

Ed, I have one important last question.

I can easily Achieve 300-350 PARS at Mid Level as you suggest.

I did these measurements with a Quatum Meter Not too long ago.



[IMG]LIGHTING (To Target PARS RAMP UP) How quickly? What Increments?[/IMG]

Please note my Bulbs are 250W MH [Pheonix 14K] (, but my Ballast is switchable so I can go 150W, 175W, 250W and HQI)

The T5's are 1x [ATI Coral Plus] and 1x [ATI Blue Plus], both with Reflectors.

So based on those measurements I'm NOW around 200 PARS with (with MH@175W and both T5's ON)

HOW SHOULD I MOVE Towards getting to 300-350 PARS?

I have two ways to get there, and that is my planned approach.

Step 1) Slowly Lower MH Light Fixture

Step 2) Then Switch Ballast to Next Power Level and Raise Light Fixture
------> This is to keep PARS same as I enter new Power Level

Step 3) Then continue from Step 1.

So the question is how MANY PARS can I increase (Safely) for each Increment?

And at what rate? (Increase every Week, Every Month,....)

I didn't measure below 12" but I can easily rent the Quantum Meter again.

I mention this since I may not want to use HQI Setting to get to 290PARS at 12" Fixture Height. (Since HQI decreases bulb life)

I will be better off staying at 250W and lower below 12" which I need to measure again.
Going below 12" reduces the Spread and since I have Narrow MH Reflectors, spread gets a bit spotty.

[Wally.B]

TANK after Sand Bed Clean (Clear UP) and Last Frags Added from Frag Tank.

So the Tank has cleared up a bit more after the Sand Bed Removal.

(Fine Particulate still floating around since Improved Circulation won't let it settle. It will all eventually get removed thru Overflow/Sump)

I also selected a few more Frags from Frag Tank and added them after pruning off any unhealthy parts.

Not much left in Frag Tank except scraps.

I did also cut off any bleached tips with Algae growing on them, so tank is all somewhat healthy frags.

And...I was a sucker to get one more Frag when I visited Canada Corals today (Got the Green Monti seen in the Lower Middle of Tank)

So this is the Tank for the PAR increase Journey.




To colors shown in photo are what my Eyes See in person.

[Wally.B]

Another Visit to Canada Corals (To see my Finger Leather) Doing Well

I did go to Canada Corals today since they emailed me that the Finger Leather (That Outgrew my Kitchen tank) which I Sold to them was getting Acclimatized in their Display Tank.

It really opened up nicely.





I actually met a guy in the Lobby Looking at the Display Tank.
He pointed to the Leather and said "That's a Beautiful Coral". It was cool to tell him, that I Personally grew it from a tiny finger.

Wish I could be as successfully some day with SPS.

I don't miss it since I did get lots of room back in the Kitchen Mixed tank.

[Wally.B]

New Powder Brown Tang (Schooling with Blue Green Chromis) Awesome!!

That Powder Brown Tang I got a couple of weeks ago for Kitchen DT is Just Amazing.

He changed the whole Social Behavior with the Blue Green Chromis Bullies that were killing is other off.

The Powder Blue like to swim in the Koralia Pump Current every night before Lights go off.

And today I notice the Blue Green Chromis's joined in.



All Four are swimming in the Current like a school.
They take turns being leader, and you can see Chromis #2 getting into Position to be #3 in the school.

That's amazing!! The all get along.

My friend said this is "Alpha" behavior. Something about needing a Stronger Leader which the Powder Brown is doing for them.
This is stopping them from Competing with each other and killing each other off.

I had 7 Chromis to start. Now 3 left after 4 killed by their own.

Looks like they will now all live happily every after.

[Wally.B]

One Week away (From Seeing a Gorgeous Real Reef) "Coral Gardens Reef" (Turks and Caicos)

This is where were a going next Saturday for a week.

https://www.google.ca/maps/place/Cor...!4d-72.2045006

Not this specific hotel also called "Coral Gardens", but Just a short 10 minute bike ride away from our Hotel.
There is amazing Mexican Restaurant at the Reef Shore called "Somewhere".

It's a walk in Protected Reef "Princess Alexandra Park" accessible from the Sandy Shore. Shallow so perfect for snorkelling and good lighting since not deep like Diving.

My Daughter took this Photo last year of Coral Gardens from The Shore.
The Reef is protected from Snorkeler Damage by a Circle of Buoys seen on the right, but it does protrude out so you do get to swim with the fish and corals.
There is even a Warden on the Beach with a Whistle if anyone try's to breach the Buoys.



Water is crystal clear as seen in the wave.

This time I'm ready with the Under Water Camera Enclosure to bring back some Photo's to share with everyone.

[Big E]

Originally Posted by Wally.B

LIGHTING (To Target PARS (Slow/Careful) RAMP UP) How quickly? What Increments?



Ed, I have one important last question.

I can easily Achieve 300-350 PARS at Mid Level as you suggest.

I did these measurements with a Quatum Meter Not too long ago.



[IMG]LIGHTING (To Target PARS RAMP UP) How quickly? What Increments?[/IMG]

Please note my Bulbs are 250W MH [Pheonix 14K] (, but my Ballast is switchable so I can go 150W, 175W, 250W and HQI)

The T5's are 1x [ATI Coral Plus] and 1x [ATI Blue Plus], both with Reflectors.

So based on those measurements I'm NOW around 200 PARS with (with MH@175W and both T5's ON)

HOW SHOULD I MOVE Towards getting to 300-350 PARS?

I have two ways to get there, and that is my planned approach.

Step 1) Slowly Lower MH Light Fixture

Step 2) Then Switch Ballast to Next Power Level and Raise Light Fixture
------> This is to keep PARS same as I enter new Power Level

Step 3) Then continue from Step 1.

So the question is how MANY PARS can I increase (Safely) for each Increment?

And at what rate? (Increase every Week, Every Month,....)

I didn't measure below 12" but I can easily rent the Quantum Meter again.

I mention this since I may not want to use HQI Setting to get to 290PARS at 12" Fixture Height. (Since HQI decreases bulb life)

I will be better off staying at 250W and lower below 12" which I need to measure again.
Going below 12" reduces the Spread and since I have Narrow MH Reflectors, spread gets a bit spotty.

A healthy coral isn't going to bleach at 300-350. I would just run the 250w setting to start at your 12" level. Running a 250w bulb at 150 or 175w doesn't make sense to me for quality lighting or spectrum.

You want to set it and forget it......that's the beauty of MH & T5.

I'm not familiar with your ballast, but from what I know of people with those type of ballasts they end up running the HQi setting.

For color later on you may decide you want to try a Radium bulb as well............ it's also designed for an HQI ballast. For now though, what you have should color and grow coral fine.

Read this link, it will help you better understand what I'm talking about.
Scroll down to 250w.

https://premiumaquatics.com/articles/radium

You can run the LED strip the last hour, but I wouldn't run that strip for any more than that for now. Without a dimmer and the fact it only puts out a single spectrum of approx. 450nm it can cause damage. Again, over time once things are going well you can experiment with adding it back slowly.

From your picture, you're barely hitting 250par at the 250w setting at 12". This should be okay till you come back from vacation. Once you're back you can try lowering the light a few more inches and the HQI setting down the road.

If you're using a Apogee for any par measurements make sure you have it set to "electric" mode. Measure this without the LEDs on.

I doubt your issues were ever bleaching corals but the opposite of not having enough light.

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by Big E

A healthy coral isn't going to bleach at 300-350. I would just run the 250w setting to start at your 12" level. Running a 250w bulb at 150 or 175w doesn't make sense to me for quality lighting or spectrum.

You want to set it and forget it......that's the beauty of MH & T5.

I'm not familiar with your ballast, but from what I know of people with those type of ballasts they end up running the HQi setting.

This is my CoralVue Luxcor Selectable Wattage Ballast.
http://www.coralvue.com/luxcore-250w...tronic-ballast

I did contact Bulb Manufacturer and they did confirm IN WRITING that I can run the 250W Bulb at 150W/175W but as you say, I would shift the Spectrum towards blue.

Originally Posted by Big E

For color later on you may decide you want to try a Radium bulb as well............ it's also designed for an HQI ballast. For now though, what you have should color and grow coral fine.

Interesting. I will try a Radium for next MH Bulb Replacement.

I was under the impression that Phoenix bulbs are one of the best. And I just checked the Phoenix Bulb Box. It's says 14k-250HQI-PH. So good for HQI.
I assume I have some choices for Radium Bulb 14K, 20K. Which is better?

Originally Posted by Big E

Read this link, it will help you better understand what I'm talking about.
Scroll down to 250w.

https://premiumaquatics.com/articles/radium

I will read up. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Big E

You can run the LED strip the last hour, but I wouldn't run that strip for any more than that for now. Without a dimmer and the fact it only puts out a single spectrum of approx. 450nm it can cause damage. Again, over time once things are going well you can experiment with adding it back slowly.

If what you say is True that the 450nm blue light can cause damage, THEN YOU JUST SOLVED my 3 Year old Problem.

I've been running the Strip Off Peak lighting (in past 6-10 hours day), since like I said, my Tank is TOTAL DARKNESS without Tank Lighting.

The problem of Past could be BOTH ITEMS (Too Low Tank Lighting, and Filled in by Bad 450nm Lighting)


My Sump Room light is just a power cord so I can put it on a timer and give the Tank some Room lighting during Dark Time.

Originally Posted by Big E

From your picture, you're barely hitting 250par at the 250w setting at 12". This should be okay till you come back from vacation. Once you're back you can try lowering the light a few more inches and the HQI setting down the road.

Ok. I'll try that. Setting Ballast to 250W at 12". This week I'll watch, and leave at this setting till I get back from Vacation.

I'm currently at 11" 175W, so I'll put fixture back to 12" and go 250W.
I expect a tiny increase in film Algae, etc....... but with Sand Bed Gone, this is the time for such changes.

Originally Posted by Big E

If you're using a Apogee for any par measurements make sure you have it set to "electric" mode. Measure this without the LEDs on.

Yes, I did use "Electric" no "Sun" mode.
Yes, I did not measure with LED's on since I understand that LED's don't measure well with Basic Quantum Meters.

Originally Posted by Big E

I doubt your issues were ever bleaching corals but the opposite of not having enough light.

I think you may be correct. Since in general my Lighting is on the Very Low Side.

[Wally.B]

NEW LIGHTING (Setup/Schedule) 250W @ 12" & RoomLight/No High-Power-LED

[Wally.B]

ONE GTAreef (Healthy SPS Test Frag) for 250W Lighting Change

It's hard to come home empty handed when visiting GTAreef like I did today.

So I did bring home this Deep Blue Acro to test in the New Tank Setup (Higher Circulation & Lighting).

Fresh Cut from Healthy Colony, so no excuses that this is a recovery effort.



Placed a little higher than Mid Tank to ensure it's in the Good Flow & Par Area.

Let's see how it does.

[Wally.B]

LAST Challenge (Conversion to ESV dosing from AF Comp123)

I have a week to monitor ALK/CALC before I depart. Mag is of no concern based on past testing.

I'm draining the Doser from AF Component 123 and Filling Two Containers with ESV ALK/CALC. (Last item on Big Ed's recommendation list)

Not sure if I'll just do a water change before I leave, or start dosing.
That will depend on ALK depletion rate that I observe.
Safer to not dose till I get back, or dose minimal.

However I've decided to no longer try to Keep ALK at 7.5.
The closest I got was 7.7 with my Salt Levels.

So I'm going with ALK=8.0 as my new Target, with Balanced CALC=418. Roughly 420ppm.

This will be easy with the Tropic Maurin Pro Salt.

[Wally.B]

Kitchen Mixed Tank (SPS Update) New Add

So things in Frag Tanks are so-so. But only damaged or left over pieces in there.

I move more more SPS into Kitchen Tank to see if it can be saved there.

Reason is everything is Kitchen Mixed tanks is doing fine.



Will be interested to see their progress over time.

NOT a Single one has gotten worse. All originals are showing some PE.
I do have their Exact names in my records somewhere (Not important now).

My expectation is they won't grow much with Low Lighting/Circulation, but if they recover to health, then I can move them into SPS Tank.

[Wally.B]

SAND BED Removal (Exposes All Live Stock) Lost/Thought Missing Specimens

With Sand Bed Gone, I can really see everything, including bottom areas under rocks.

I thought the Blue Green Chromis which I rescued from Kitchen Tank was dead weeks ago.
He is living nicely in a Cave.

It's been months since I've seen the FireGoby. I thought he jumped out.
Just saw him flickering amongst the rocks.

Sand Snails are hanging around small patches of left over sand.

So this is my Live Stock in the 65 Gallon Tank.
Explains why skimmer is still producing a lot of Thick Skim Daily, even with Algae Scrubber slowed down.

All photos are ACTUAL Tank Inhabitants. Only Firefly Goby is a Google Grab since impossible to get a picture.

[Wally.B]

Concern about (Nassarius and Pearl) Sand Snails !!!

So now that the Large Nassarius snail (Size of my Thumb) and Pretty Large Pearl Snail are exposed will they do ok without much sand?

I could put them in my Refuge which has a 2-3 inch sandbed, but it gets no food at all (so could be worse).

Do I leave them and they will adapt and keep the little pocket of Sand under Rocks sparkling clean?

Or do I remove them and take back to store before they die and polute my tank?

I did a bit of searching on the Forums and people have kept both in BB tanks since they will just live under rocks etc, and eat the left over food.

So they might be ok and still beneficial.

The may not get the best sleep, but better than in the wild where if exposed will be eaten, which brings a another concern, are they now safe exposed with the Hermits prowling around.

[Wally.B]

REMOVING (Two Large Hermit Crabs) They go into Refuge

I've decided I will remove the 2 Large Hermit Crabs from DT.

The variety of Snails I have will suffice for both Tank Glass Walls, Glass Bottom for left over food, and little of sand that remains.

Hermits kill snails for their shells, and I've seen them clinging to my SPS.

I have a few snails in Sump and I've watched them do good work on the Night Timelapse camera, so not a place for the Hermits either.

Hermits will go into Refuge when I don't have snails.
Some food does get in there Via the Fill Pump.

If they die of starvation, so be it. Stores around here don't give any trade in credit for Crabs.

[Wally.B]

Hermits Moving to (Hotel Heaven) Rubble Refuge

Caught First Hermit out of 4. Small one. Jam packed into small Cerith Snail Shell.



But after 2nd look, The Rubble Refuge will be Nice for Hermits.



Loaded with Past Snail Shells, every size Imaginable.

Hermit is already checking out the future Home upgrade options.

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by Big E

I'm not familiar with your ballast, but from what I know of people with those type of ballasts they end up running the HQi setting.

For color later on you may decide you want to try a Radium bulb as well............ it's also designed for an HQI ballast. For now though, what you have should color and grow coral fine.

Read this link, it will help you better understand what I'm talking about.
Scroll down to 250w.

https://premiumaquatics.com/articles/radium

Thanks Ed,

I did read up on the Radium Bulb.
It appears to be a CLASSIC, and highly rated.

However I'm out of luck with my 150-250W LuxCore Ballast. (Which is a good CoralVue product in general)

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...m?pcatid=25480



The Radium bulb appears to need HQI (Magnetic) to run, or at least an Electronic HQI compatible Ballast.

If I had the 250-400W LuxCor Ballast I'd be ok.
Another Small problem with 250W Radium is I'd need to convert my Double Ended to Single Ended connectors in the fixture.

The specs on the Pheonix 250W 14K Bulb appear to be compatible with my Ballast.

https://www.soslightbulbs.com/produc...l-halide-lamp/



I did read up on the 250W OverDrive (Super Lumens) setting.
I can use it to get the Extra PARS, but it will cut my bulb life to HALF.

BTW. The new Light Schedule at 250W 12" (6 hours) looks promising.

I was expecting an increase in Film Algae on Glass with higher Lighting Intensity.
However the opposite is happening.. Algae film is slowing down.
Must be the overall reduced Photo Period, and I'm making better use of Lighting (higher intensity for proper period ON).

Even that pathetic Pink Millie (in above photo of past) is now showing PE

[Big E]

Whoops sorry, my mistake, I was thinking SE bulbs. You have the DE Phoenix bulbs which are fine. They have a long history of successful coloration and growth of acros. I assume you have the glass inserts/splash guards in place?

On the 450nm LEDs...........it's not that they are bad it's just that any singular spectrum can have a diminishing returns effect. People will go overboard with this and it can cause problems. Not every acro likes/needs 450 blue. Many pigments and chromo proteins color up/grow better under various other spectrums.

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by Big E

Whoops sorry, my mistake, I was thinking SE bulbs. You have the DE Phoenix bulbs which are fine. They have a long history of successful coloration and growth of acros. I assume you have the glass inserts/splash guards in place?

On the 450nm LEDs...........it's not that they are bad it's just that any singular spectrum can have a diminishing returns effect. People will go overboard with this and it can cause problems. Not every acro likes/needs 450 blue. Many pigments and chromo proteins color up/grow better under various other spectrums.

Ed, Perfect.

I did purchase the Phoenix 250DE's based on MANY good reviews.

Bumping them up to 250W as they should be running is a positive move.
And yes the fixture has UV/Splash Glass Plate.

12" for now till I get back from Vacation and rent the Quantum meter for Final Lowering of Fixture.

I like the reduced photo Period by adding the timer to the Basement Sump Room Ceiling Light VS all day Accent lighting via Offset Schedule on T5's. Appears to be helping with Film algae build up.

Everything is now locked down (no further changes needed).

So now I'm all setup for a period of wait and watch.

[Wally.B]

10 DAYS Later (Green Slimer) Comparison (DT, FragTank, Mixed TANK)

Photo Shows results.



Good News is SPS DT is doing nice.

Frag Tank needs work (Everything is going BROWN)
No concern. No Effort is being put in on Frag Tank at this point.

Interesting to see Kitchen Mixed Tank is not bad at all.

[Wally.B]

DOSING a MUST!! (During Week Away) Starting ESV Buff 1/2

So ALK is dropping and that means I can't leave tank without dosing while away for 7 days.

Things to could pick up with New Improved Lighting and Alk consumption could accelerate.

Based on EVS bottle the recommended starting dose is 1ml per 4 GALS.
That translates to 22ml per Day for my 90 Gallon System.
Not willing to Risk that much since I'm not 100% on Alk Consumption.

Using the Reef Chemistry Calculator
http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html

I punched in 0.125 dKh Top Up, and this would required 5ml of ESV Part 1.

I'm dosing 5ml per day till Sunday and will decide on final Dose before departing.

Even if Alk were not to drop 0.125 Daily... 5ml per day would only raise Alk 0.875 dKh. (Which won't happen)

I'm currently at 7.5-7.7 dKh so it would rise (worst case) to 8.375, but it won't increase that much since ALK is being consumed.

So 5ml Per Day is a very Safe Dosing Start. (The Most I am willing to go is 10ml/Day and will decide in a couple of days)

[Wally.B]

Some NOT SO ADVANCED (Vacation Protection) Skimmer Overflow Reservoir

Every time I go away for a longer trip I come back to a Over Full Skimmer. Not ideal if happens Early.
Usually caused by Neighbour over feeding fish

(Not inviting neighbour this time, since setting up Pellet Auto Feeder with the Blink Light Programming).

This time I want the Tank to not experience any preventable problems, since things appear to be on track.



This is how much my Skimmer Skims Daily, even with the Algae Scrubber which has now pretty well stopped.

I drilled the Skimmer Cup ages ago, and the New Sump with Glass Lid Shelf allows me to have this mini Reservoir to handle 3x the Normal Cup Skim Capacity.

[Wally.B]

Battery Backup UPS (Critical Component Reconfig) for Vacation Absence.

Almost ever time I go away, we have an Power Failure that messes up my Apex Classic. It loses it Time and it's set for Auto Date.

I called Apex Support and it may need firmware update. Too late for that now.


I re-cabled my UPS Battery Backup, to ensure my critical Components stay up.

-> House Internet Router and LAN switch .
-> One Cloud Camera that watches Sump room
-> Both Apex controllers won't reboot
-> Skimmers stay on since they can sometime not restart.
-> No need for Lights to Drain Battery for a short Power Interrupt.

With this simpler setup, my Battery/UPS could probably handle quite a few hours without Power.



And I tested a Power Failure simulation to make sure it's all correct.


WHY ALL THE FUSS THIS TIME.

Things always go wrong when I'm away.....

and this is another reason. I noticed that even after a few days at new Lighting/Circulation, the Corals are really starting to look good.

Don't want to ruin the positive move forward while away.



All I have left to do is Auto Feeders for Fish.