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Unread 07/30/2015, 03:40 PM   #1451
Adrnalnrsh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvMiBo View Post
Are you running air stones? They recommend running the skimmer (and allowing it to overflow back into the system) because it acts as a massive aerator. Oxygen levels drop while dosing chemiclean. Most system crashes while dosing chemiclean happen because people don't aerate enough or at all. (fair warning)
No airstones. I removed my durso standpipe so water is falling into my overflow box. Skimmer is off and am topping off with Kalkwasser which releases oxide molecules. PH has been hovering around 7.8-8.0

At first I only dose half the dose, then added 25% and another 25%. Cyano is slowly dying from what I can tell.

Tank has not crashed nor appears any worse than before.


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Unread 07/30/2015, 05:18 PM   #1452
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Originally Posted by mfaso24 View Post
Does anyone know if you can safely transfer fish and corals from a Dino infested system to another? Looking for some insight from someone that has first hand experience preferably.
I tried this several times, first time I did a freshwater dip (30sec) on everything, within a few hours the dinos were showing on the corals..
The second time I used a freshwater/H2O2 dip (two capfuls in a bowl of water)for around a minute (corals only) the dinos came back on the corals and spread quickly..
Just guessing, but I think there were some dormant ones in the plugs/rocks the corals were mounted on...
Third time I used a freshwater/H2O2 (several ounces in a bowl of water) for 3 minutes followed by an iodine dip..
They came back on the corals, It was just was slower...
After each one of these dips, the corals were placed into a clean 10gallon tank with fresh salt water....


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Unread 07/31/2015, 04:14 PM   #1453
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Pictures of my tank post dino:













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Unread 07/31/2015, 05:13 PM   #1454
Adrnalnrsh
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Did you post what you did to solve the issue? Sorry, don't feel like digging through old threads.


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Unread 07/31/2015, 05:15 PM   #1455
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Originally Posted by Adrnalnrsh View Post
Did you post what you did to solve the issue? Sorry, don't feel like digging through old threads.
Page 58


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Unread 07/31/2015, 06:51 PM   #1456
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Very nice pics! I really like that hairy ?mushroom. Is that porites in the last pic? Looks suspiciously SPS. No sign of dinos for sure.

Do you think you'll keep the tank bare bottom? I know it's popular for nutrient control but I can't get used to the way it looks.

Ivy


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Unread 08/01/2015, 08:32 AM   #1457
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Originally Posted by Quiet_Ivy View Post
Very nice pics! I really like that hairy ?mushroom. Is that porites in the last pic? Looks suspiciously SPS. No sign of dinos for sure.

Do you think you'll keep the tank bare bottom? I know it's popular for nutrient control but I can't get used to the way it looks.

Ivy


Thanks!!! And I have no idea what that is in the last pic. Have another thread up asking about it but nobody seemed to be able to answer. I'll probably keep it BB it's a breeze to clean.


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Unread 08/02/2015, 05:30 PM   #1458
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Alright - just picked up an emperor aquatics 40 watt uv.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438558091.615928.jpg
To deal with the Dino's (and anything else they potentially help with)
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438558131.267180.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438558140.503465.jpg
I have a feeling that most people who haven't had luck with UV underpowered their UV relative to the size of their tank. My tank is 140 gallons. I'll report back in a couple of days as to how it's going!


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Unread 08/02/2015, 06:10 PM   #1459
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Remember to keep the UV flow very slow.

Two biggest mistakes are underpowered and too fast ... That's essentially useless. And that's the feedback most UV critics come back with.


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Unread 08/02/2015, 06:55 PM   #1460
fftfk
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Originally Posted by karimwassef View Post
Remember to keep the UV flow very slow.

Two biggest mistakes are underpowered and too fast ... That's essentially useless. And that's the feedback most UV critics come back with.

The directions say 262 gallons per hour maximum flow for protozoa. I'm using a sicce syncra silent 1.5 with maximum flow rate of 358 gph and have the flow restrict or set to about the half way mark.


The pump is located right at the overflow to get water straight from the tank and the return from the uv is plumbed right near the intake for the skimmer.

Hopefully this arrangements takes care of it!


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Unread 08/03/2015, 11:04 AM   #1461
Adrnalnrsh
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Just an update.

Did my first water change at 10% (10 gallons). Cleaned up tons of dead dinos and cyano. Most of the dead dinos that were attached to frags easily came off (unlikely when alive). I am not 100% in the clear, but before I started I had bubbles everywhere and now I can't see a single one.

Skimmer has been off just over a week. Still dosing phyto as I have started culturing my own. Added lot of copepods.

Nitrates are a bit high at around 10-15ppm. Phospates are around 0.006 (hanna ULR at 2 x 3.066 / 1000) which seems way too low. I could have an imbalance which I will worry about once I get back to my normal routine.

Most likely have a ton of detritus built up in the sump and some parts of the tank which could be causing the raise in Nitrates or I am phosphate limited.

Tons of bubble algae still but I'll worry about that later.

One interesting observation is I lost most of my snails accept for one huge trochus and I have en explosion of stomatellas. I can see hundred + little ones all over my tank which were there while I had dinos.


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Unread 08/03/2015, 11:07 AM   #1462
Adrnalnrsh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fftfk View Post
Alright - just picked up an emperor aquatics 40 watt uv.
Attachment 324860
To deal with the Dino's (and anything else they potentially help with)
Attachment 324861
Attachment 324862
I have a feeling that most people who haven't had luck with UV underpowered their UV relative to the size of their tank. My tank is 140 gallons. I'll report back in a couple of days as to how it's going!
My advice is go to algaebarn.com ASAP and get their P&P package. Phyto and Pods.

As soon as I added both, the next day I saw a difference in my dynos. I also used Chemclean to kill off cyano as Dino's and Cyano can be symbiotic.


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Unread 08/03/2015, 12:32 PM   #1463
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Those big trochus might be tectus, which are nocturnal snails. Stomatellas are also nocturnal.
This explains they don't perish, as dinoflagellates detach from rocks and substrate in the night and therefore the nocturnal critters only eat mucilage which is not toxic.


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Unread 08/03/2015, 12:36 PM   #1464
Adrnalnrsh
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Originally Posted by Montireef View Post
Those big trochus might be tectus, which are nocturnal snails. Stomatellas are also nocturnal.
This explains they don't perish, as dinoflagellates detach from rocks and substrate in the night and therefore the nocturnal critters only eat mucilage which is not toxic.
What I had looks like brown very short turf algae. Lots of it had bubbles at the end primarily in clusters. Especailly on frags and on the rocks. (I am bare bottom). The bottom of my tank was mostly cyano with some dinos.

The front was mostly the brown film, but not much bubbles. I am guess that was due to current. Mind you my return was the only source of current I had going for a while and my return hits the front glass really well.

Anyhow, the stomatellas and what I thought was a trochus were all over the brown film where there were no bubbles.

Edit: looked at pics of tectus snail, that's what I have. Was sold as a banded trochus or something like that. Been my best snail. Turbos are all dead, nassarius, astreas too. (No nerites or ceriths)


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Unread 08/03/2015, 02:10 PM   #1465
Adrnalnrsh
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Checked my phosphates again with my Hanna ULR and it said 0 twice. I figure I am phosphate limited at this point. Retested Nitrates are at 12-15ppm.


I only have three small fish in my 90gallon. Two Perculas and a Damsel.


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Unread 08/04/2015, 10:31 AM   #1466
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what helped me with a combo of Dinos and cyno (never did figure out the allocation between the two).

added UV at slow rate:
noticed immediate improvement in my LPS (elegance and disk)...much better extension, hunger (supplemental feeding) and color.

added more flow:
now have two RW20s, 2x RW8s, 1x RW15...8's are at full speed sinewave--one positioned at one end of DT and pointed to blow across the back of the DT, the other at one end aimed toward front. the 15 is in the lower middle aimed toward the front--mid-speed, the 20's are upper opposite ends aimed at the opposite front corners--3 or 4 speed.

this marginally improved the cyno

Added Chemclean:
turned off UV and added per directions. it did the job perfectly. cyno gone in two days and no signs of return

Skimmer:
changed from on 24/7 to 8hr (night only) everyday but also dialed back the amount of skim it would take out (trying the dirty method as noted earlier in this thread). interestingly i still don't have significant growth of algae on the DT....

us of bleach:
when i noticed dyno on the DT walls i used a long handled acrylic scrubber that was soaking in bleach to remove. before use, i ensure the bleach is drained (i.e. not dripping) but i DO NOT rinse in water. i then use the scrubber to scrub the area with the dino--i only move the scrubber in one direction so i press hard to ensure i can get all the dino in one pass. i've only had to do this a few times and only 1x or 2x in any one spot and dino is gone.

i haven't noticed any more cyno and only yesterday i noticed one very small dino, which i took out but it was sooooo small (maybe 0.25in long).

its been two weeks since the above changes (finished the chemclean process) and things look good. hope this helps!


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Unread 08/05/2015, 07:45 AM   #1467
DNA
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It's been a week and my Live Rock / sand experiment seems to be a failure and dinos are doing great.
I would not write this method off since the rock I received should have been sold as dead or sterile.

What next?


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Unread 08/05/2015, 10:30 AM   #1468
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Have you used low flow high power UV?


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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape
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Unread 08/05/2015, 11:00 AM   #1469
Adrnalnrsh
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Originally Posted by DNA View Post
It's been a week and my Live Rock / sand experiment seems to be a failure and dinos are doing great.
I would not write this method off since the rock I received should have been sold as dead or sterile.

What next?
Have you started rebuilding your microfauna yet?


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Unread 08/05/2015, 12:47 PM   #1470
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Originally Posted by karimwassef View Post
Have you used low flow high power UV?
The main difference between a skimmer and a UV unit is that the skimmer removes them while the UV leaves them dead in the water for the skimmer to pick up later so a good skimmer seems to be the better choice.

I ran a small 9W pond UV for months some years ago without any positive effect.
To buy a 80W UV for a test does not appeal to me since they are expensive.


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Unread 08/05/2015, 12:53 PM   #1471
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Originally Posted by Adrnalnrsh View Post
Have you started rebuilding your microfauna yet?
The live rock was intended to be a knock out in that division.

The pets shops here don't have anything else useful for microfauna and they are not interested in special orders.


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Unread 08/05/2015, 01:17 PM   #1472
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The live rock was intended to be a knock out in that division.

The pets shops here don't have anything else useful for microfauna and they are not interested in special orders.
Can you get phyto? Macroalgae?

hth
ivy


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Unread 08/05/2015, 01:18 PM   #1473
Adrnalnrsh
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The live rock was intended to be a knock out in that division.

The pets shops here don't have anything else useful for microfauna and they are not interested in special orders.
Ah gotcha. Hard to get something shipped from an online outfit?


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Unread 08/05/2015, 01:42 PM   #1474
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Can you get phyto? Macroalgae?

hth
ivy
No for phyto.
No for macroalgae, but you can order it and get it within 3 months.

A new LFS is doing most of the salty import now.
They even have a selection of fish and corals in stock.


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Unread 08/05/2015, 01:50 PM   #1475
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Ah gotcha. Hard to get something shipped from an online outfit?
The bureaucrats are warlords and they have orders.
They want you to fail and pay fees for the destruction of your illegal imports.

For instance I can import Nori for human consumption, but for animals I need to start a company and get all sorts of permits and certificates.


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