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11/30/2015, 10:43 PM | #2276 |
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I have been fighting what I think is dyno's . A few weeks ago my sand was covered with stringy snot . I have been vacuuming the sand everyday and it has improved but the sand is still red . so after reading many of the post in here I decided to mix up 23ml of peroxide in a one gallon of RODI water and pump that solution through a coral feeding tube right onto the sand bed. my problem has improved a ton , all I have is small patches now. my plan is to continue this for a few days and see how things go.
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12/01/2015, 01:20 AM | #2277 | |
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If UV isn't working, then you may need a new bulb. If the UV is in good condition, and not helping wit the dinos, then peroxide won't do much either. something tipped the balance. It would be useful to understand what it was.
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
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12/01/2015, 08:32 AM | #2278 | |
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12/01/2015, 03:06 PM | #2279 |
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Following along since i now am in the same fight
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12/01/2015, 07:40 PM | #2280 |
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There's still something there left but about gone for now until I screw something else up again.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
12/02/2015, 10:16 PM | #2281 | |||
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I'm not sure if it was ever covered, but has anyone tried dosing phosphates when they have elevated NO3 and little to no PO4? I have a tank that has minimal livestock (couple of snails and crabs, a few small softies that don't really seem to grow). But after a long period of neglect, I had TONS of snot all over everything. Glass, rocks, sand, powerheads, you name it. Snot everywhere, but not so much as a speck of algae, including coralline. Nitrates were around 40 , PO4 was .01 to .02 (Hanna low range checker, the old style, the blue brick). I started dosing phosphates, no other changes. Within a week or so they were 90% gone. Coralline started to grow, and a few small patches of algae. (As a sidenote, a little cyano started to pop up) |
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12/03/2015, 07:16 AM | #2282 |
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What do you use to dose phosphate?
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12/03/2015, 08:24 AM | #2283 |
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Adding phosphates is easy. I use food and lots of it.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
12/03/2015, 09:43 AM | #2284 |
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Yes, but there's a difference between "adding" and "dosing" That's why I asked - Tigé21v specifically said "dosing." If it was possible to dose phosphate in a measured and consistent way I'd prefer that, because if I'm going to dose something specifically to attempt control of a dino outbreak then I want the input to be measurable (so it can be repeatable).
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12/03/2015, 02:09 PM | #2285 |
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There are a variety of sodium and phosphate compounds that might work. The best approach would be to find a food-grade additive. They are used in cooking, and Amazon lists a few products along this line.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
12/03/2015, 10:48 PM | #2286 |
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Potassium phosphate.Doesn't take much, a little goes a long way.
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12/04/2015, 11:55 AM | #2287 |
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Cool, thanks for the info.
On the subject of siphoning excess dinos from the tank through a filter sock and putting the water back: I tried this approach the other day but it did not work out well. The filter sock, a 200 micron BRS felt sock, didn't capture all of the dinos and the water was full of brown strands. Is that supposed to be normal? It looks like a lot of matter to put back in the tank so I ended up replacing the removed water with new saltwater. |
12/04/2015, 01:40 PM | #2288 | |
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Water changes used to cause a dino bloom, but they don't do that any more. My dinos are annoyingly stable living their visible lives on the sandbed. |
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12/04/2015, 01:51 PM | #2289 |
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What is the relationship between Cyanobacteria and Dinoflagellates?
Most of us have them both. I had already found a way to see the Cyano strands in the water column using extremely bright light and a dark background. There is a lot of it in there during the day so I tried a new method last weekend. I filled my bathtub with tank water and let the water settle there for three days. The purple cyano was clearly seen against the white tub and some of it got left behind after it got drained. |
12/04/2015, 02:13 PM | #2290 |
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I too had both Cyano and Dinos. I contribute the initial bloom of cyano to Selcon since I was adding that to fish food often( much too often like every day). I used red slime remover to rid the cyano..... that's when my Dinos really took hold and covers a thin slime everywhere. You have to look closely to see it but its every where and only bad in two spots on the sand floor. During both these blooms PO4 and Nitrates are extremely low. The lower they went gradually Dinos got worse. Now Dinos seems to be at a stopping point in terms of growth. Don't get worse or better just stays the same.
I'm going to up the feeding and see if other algae will out compete the Dinos. |
12/04/2015, 08:15 PM | #2291 | |
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12/04/2015, 08:23 PM | #2292 |
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Anyone here ever dosed Dino X with success?
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If you knew better, you would do better....... 😏 Current Tank Info: 90 Gallon: Coralife Aqualife Pro 492W MH, Proflex Model 3 Refugium Sump, Jabeo WP-25 wavemaker, Bubble Magnus NAC6, Finnex 500W heater w/controller, Mag 9.5 Pump, SPS, LPS, Zoas, RBTAs, Fishes, Shrimps, Crabs, CUC, and Snails |
12/04/2015, 10:04 PM | #2293 |
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12/04/2015, 10:05 PM | #2294 |
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Removing sandbed next week if dinos dont get any better. I feel like they love the sand. but why? Any relationship the sand that they love?
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12/04/2015, 10:25 PM | #2295 |
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I think sand allows the accumulation of waste. Without sufficient motion or cleaning, this decay allows bacteria to take over. That's usually cyano. Algae has a hard time sticking to sand, so an unhealthy sandbed is like a buffet for dinos... They seem to coexist well with bacteria and this is an ideal zone. They consume the waste before it makes it up to the rocks and glass where algae can use it. Then, they slowly take over the other spaces... Consuming up as they go... Until they get to feast on any waste without leaving any space or waste for algae... Tank domination!!!
Just my theory... It works better with the war music in my head. So... Either fix the sand or remove it.
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
12/04/2015, 10:30 PM | #2296 | |
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My shipment came in today. I'm dosing tonight!!!!
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If you knew better, you would do better....... 😏 Current Tank Info: 90 Gallon: Coralife Aqualife Pro 492W MH, Proflex Model 3 Refugium Sump, Jabeo WP-25 wavemaker, Bubble Magnus NAC6, Finnex 500W heater w/controller, Mag 9.5 Pump, SPS, LPS, Zoas, RBTAs, Fishes, Shrimps, Crabs, CUC, and Snails |
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12/05/2015, 01:26 AM | #2297 | |
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You folks using dino X scare me. Please keep us updated on your progress as often as you can. Cyano and dinos are both extremophiles, they survive when nothing else can. Cyano can photosynthesize, make nitrate, and store P, dinos are mixotrophic. So in our out of balance tanks they can manage to get a foothold. I haven't been able to find any papers on this but I wonder whether dinos can actually consume cyano? They are known to eat bacteria, and cyano would be a big source of N and P. ivy
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28g cube, CF 105watts! Tunze 9001. Tiny frags: Euphyllia, blasto, ricordea and a rock flower anemone. Lost fish and inverts due to ongoing outbreak of dinoflagellates. Current Tank Info: 28g aio, 105 watt CF lights, no sump or skimmer. 2 sexy shrimp, tiny frogspawn, tiny toadstool, tiny lps. Started Feb '15 |
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12/05/2015, 02:14 AM | #2298 | |
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12/05/2015, 02:15 AM | #2299 |
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I've changed my tank info below and suggest frequent posters here do the same or mention their dinoflagellate species on every post.
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12/05/2015, 02:30 AM | #2300 | |
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
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