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Unread 03/13/2016, 07:03 PM   #226
tmz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadCnty View Post
So if you get an outbreak in a reef system, you should transfer all fish to a qt and dose there??? As copper is not good for corals, true??? Just wondering... As I have never had an outbreak, but yet preparing for the worse...
Also IF you had a FOWLR with just one fish can you not qt that fish & treat said fish, and let the tank ick die off naturally w/o dosing copper??? Hope you all understand what I am asking... Again never had ick but would like to have answers before it happens, so I am more informed if/when it does...
Also what is the timeline of getting rid of ick in a DT without dosing copper (ie no fish)???
Yes , treat them in qt. Leave the infected tank fishless for 72 days.Copper will kill corals and other inverts. I'd suggest you stop in at the fish disease forum and read some of the information there .IT's quite extensive.


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.
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Unread 03/30/2016, 12:15 AM   #227
Angel101
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Hi from Australia. Twenty years ago, I had an Ich outbreak in my reef tank. The owner of my LFS, a guy I really trusted told me to use Tri Sulpha. I did and it worked. Two months ago, I introduced a Golden Angel and within days, all fish were covered in Ich. I used Tri Sulpha and it cleared up. The local big mouth on my home forum said that it couldn't possibly work, but it did, I don't know why, as it's an anti-bacterial treatment, but whenever I've had Ich, I have used this and it has worked.


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Unread 04/01/2016, 11:49 AM   #228
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Tri sulfa is used for bacterial infections( like septicemia , fin and tail rot, cotton mouth etc,) . Bacterial infections are often secondary to a crytocaryon irritans/ich infestation given the open wounds the ich produces.

Treatment is usually in a quarantine / treatment tank.

There is no reason to think it is directly effective against ciliate protozoans like ich.

I don't consider it safe to use it in a reef reef tank either given it's potential to harm the bacterial balance and perhaps other organisms like some corals and other invertebrates.


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.
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Unread 04/01/2016, 09:03 PM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmz View Post
Tri sulfa is used for bacterial infections( like septicemia , fin and tail rot, cotton mouth etc,) . Bacterial infections are often secondary to a crytocaryon irritans/ich infestation given the open wounds the ich produces.

Treatment is usually in a quarantine / treatment tank.

There is no reason to think it is directly effective against ciliate protozoans like ich.

I don't consider it safe to use it in a reef reef tank either given it's potential to harm the bacterial balance and perhaps other organisms like some corals and other invertebrates.
Well every time I have had white spot, I have used this and it has cleared up, as promised. Must be magic?





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Unread 04/02/2016, 09:41 AM   #230
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"If you believe in magic" as the song goes I have no argument with that feeling ;reality is less fun though.

With a proven preventative treatment like tank transfer and quarantine there shouldn't be any "white spot" in the tank to treat every time you have it.


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.

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Unread 04/02/2016, 11:37 PM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmz View Post
"If you believe in magic" as the song goes I have no argument with that feeling ;reality is less fun though.

With a proven preventative treatment like tank transfer and quarantine there shouldn't be any "white spot" in the tank to treat every time you have it.
I've had it four times in 20 years.


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Unread 04/02/2016, 11:46 PM   #232
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Ich is always in the tank unless you fallow and cure all the fish with ttm or copper


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Unread 04/12/2016, 09:32 PM   #233
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Ich is always in your tank, like the mange parasite is always in your dog. Any healthy animal stands a good shot at beating it; hopefully, completely suppressing it.

This aquariast's best advice is get to work. Water change your a** off. Everyday. 10 to 15 percent. As long as it takes. Usually around a month for me. Agitate your substrate just before water changes. Of course, pristine water replacement is critical.

Feed good and feed often. Mysis. Squid. Bloodworms. Quality flake. More Mysis. UV sterilizer running 24/7 will absolutely help. Multiple UV's, if you can. Quarantine? Nope. Proves nothing. Leave a fish alone in a sterile tank, then throw it into your fully stocked reef in three weeks? Really? Have at it. Not for me.

I don't mess with salinity, temperature and sure as heck do not dose or treat. Fallow tank??? Goofy. Let a reef tank sit idle for 70-90 days? Not a chance. Just wave the white flag! Take the tank down and buy a parrot.

I've been keeping fresh and salt tanks for 30 years and have made my mistakes. In EVERY instance, ich appeared due to me adding one too many fish and the ensuing stress. Overpopulating, in my experience, brought the ich parasite out within two days of adding that last fish.

I've had four or five bouts with serious ich. None have ever lasted more than 30 days and I've never lost more than 30% of my stock. Face it, you're going to lose, at least, a couple, but you have an obligation to fight like hell to save the rest.

Ich can be tenacious. I prefer to be just as tenacious in fighting it.

Hypo / hyper salinity, dosing, gaming with temperature, et al, all strike me as way too passive and ultimately are nothing more than "Hope it works" .

Got ich? Good luck and get busy. You'll beat it.


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Unread 04/12/2016, 11:25 PM   #234
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good read


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Unread 04/13/2016, 12:24 PM   #235
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It makes me sad that folks allow crptocaryon irritans infestations in their tanks repeatedly ; 4 times,5 times etc and offer advice for others to follow their ineffective methods to cure it . I guess misery loves company.

No ich is very possible with proven methods if one takes the time to study the life cycle of the parasite and how to effectively treat it and a tank with it in it. I haven't seen any in about 9 years in my system which houses over 50 fish .
Anyone who want's an ich free tank can do a little reading and be guided accordingly. There are hundreds of threads , studies and articles The fish disease and treatment forum is a good place to start. This thread may also be of interest:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...sh+acclimation



Crytocaryon irritans( marine ich) nothing at like mange(saroptes scabei) btw. Though ,treatment and pevention for ither does involve quarantine of infested animals.


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.
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Unread 04/13/2016, 01:04 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damicodric View Post
Ich is always in your tank, like the mange parasite is always in your dog. Any healthy animal stands a good shot at beating it; hopefully, completely suppressing it.
Ich is always in your tank because you chose to live with it, not eradicate it. A healthy specimen can live through it but its still there. The ich is constantly going through its life cycle still in your system while you have any fish in the tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by damicodric View Post
This aquariast's best advice is get to work. Water change your a** off. Everyday. 10 to 15 percent. As long as it takes. Usually around a month for me. Agitate your substrate just before water changes. Of course, pristine water replacement is critical.
With all that wasted work you could of gotten rid of the ich long ago. All that water could of been used for TTM instead of adding back into a ich infested tank. The cysts on your LR and substrate are not removed when you do a water change. Other than increasing your water quality, this does nothing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by damicodric View Post
Feed good and feed often. Mysis. Squid. Bloodworms. Quality flake. More Mysis. UV sterilizer running 24/7 will absolutely help. Multiple UV's, if you can. Quarantine? Nope. Proves nothing. Leave a fish alone in a sterile tank, then throw it into your fully stocked reef in three weeks? Really? Have at it. Not for me.
In a sense you are just feeding the ich well. Fish eats food, ich feeds off fish. UV sterilizer does help with baddies in the water column but this is something to help your tanks condition not a solution to the problem. No quarantine huh? That is terrible advice. What do you mean proves nothing? Proves that you aren't going to introduce brook, velvet, or whatever else into your main display?? Your idea of QT is just putting a fish in a sterile tank for 3 weeks then dumping it in the DT? I would recommend you research and read up on proper quarantine techniques.

Quote:
Originally Posted by damicodric View Post
I don't mess with salinity, temperature and sure as heck do not dose or treat. Fallow tank??? Goofy. Let a reef tank sit idle for 70-90 days? Not a chance. Just wave the white flag! Take the tank down and buy a parrot.
Why would you think people who do QT - messing with salinity, temperature, or dosing on your DT has anything to do with getting rid of ich? The purpose of FALLOW is to ensure all ich cysts have completed their life cycle and died off as they could not find a host fish.

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Originally Posted by damicodric View Post
I've been keeping fresh and salt tanks for 30 years and have made my mistakes. In EVERY instance, ich appeared due to me adding one too many fish and the ensuing stress. Overpopulating, in my experience, brought the ich parasite out within two days of adding that last fish.
You have had ich for 30 years it appears, it surfaces each time when they stress or may due to many other factors.

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Originally Posted by damicodric View Post
I've had four or five bouts with serious ich. None have ever lasted more than 30 days and I've never lost more than 30% of my stock. Face it, you're going to lose, at least, a couple, but you have an obligation to fight like hell to save the rest.
Those 5 instances were just the same infestation surfacing at different times. You never even should lose a single fish to ich if you TTM with new arrivals.

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Originally Posted by damicodric View Post
Ich can be tenacious. I prefer to be just as tenacious in fighting it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by damicodric View Post
Hypo / hyper salinity, dosing, gaming with temperature, et al, all strike me as way too passive and ultimately are nothing more than "Hope it works" .
None of those things are 100% succesful. Some strands of ich can surive lower salinity than your fish can. Raising temperature is for freshwater ich not marine. Although it can adjust their life cycle's time. I suggest looking in the fish disease section of the forum, there are some really good threads on the subject of ich and TTM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by damicodric View Post
Got ich? Good luck and get busy. You'll beat it.
Yep if you want to beat it you will pull your fish into QT and perform TTM, ultimately putting them in a sterile QT after the process while going fallow on your DT.


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Unread 04/13/2016, 01:06 PM   #237
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Hundreds of articles, threads, posts etc on Marine Ich, yet an equally number of posts exist on how to treat it. Somebody isn't getting it OR the solutions aren't fixing the problem. I'm betting the latter.

This a hobby, not a chore. I'm as much interested in reading a 15 page dissertation on the life cycle of Marine Ich, as I am in the life cycle of grass growing.

I know what it is; I know what triggers it; I know how to handle it. Done.

We can only offer what works for us. Granted, my method is a little more basic than most, but it works.

It's not about keeping score - you've had more or less Marine Ich than I did. Great!

Lastly, you're dead wrong about Mange. It absolutely does not jump from dog to dog. Puppies, in particular, are most susceptible after weaning and during shots. I've kept multiple German Shepherds for 22 years and still do. In the two instances mange has appeared, it absolutely has never infected any other dog.

Just another reason to quarantine something, I guess.

My god, what do some of you do when your children catch cold???

Let me guess - quarantine.


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Unread 04/14/2016, 09:07 AM   #238
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The tile of this thread is:ICH: how to cure it, id it, understand it.

The above post(#237) offers nothing on either score. Seems like an effort to derail informative discussion to nonsense with inept anoalogies about mange which is nothing like ich in it's life cycle and biology and children's colds which is even worse. Neither of those have any relevance to ICH. Seems to be nothing but uniformed argument for argument's sake without serious thought , heavy in dismissiveness with a taste of thinly veiled insult.
Try to stay on topic. If you don't wan't to make an effort to learn about ICH and how to treat it and prefer to keep it in your tank that's your choice. Advising other's to follow suit is just bad advice,IMO which will lead to unnecessary painful and often lethal infestations.


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.

Last edited by tmz; 04/14/2016 at 09:27 AM.
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Unread 04/14/2016, 09:53 AM   #239
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I was going to say something after the first post, but I'm certainly no expert.

Even me as a rookie who has no experience with ich knows better than this.


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Unread 04/21/2016, 06:01 PM   #240
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Had ick show up on two separate occasions from fish at the lfs but both times it healed. Not sure what i did right other than feed a little more than usual


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Unread 04/28/2016, 09:57 PM   #241
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The biggest tendency in this hobby is to overpopulate, particularly to the newbie.

Quarantine all you like; it does nothing for the overpopulated tank.

I was speaking to the everyday, new reefer. Thought that's the essence of any forum. The biologists here have offered fish advice. I'm offering aquarist advice.

Discussions in my lfs always revolve around this exact point, regarding marine ich.

In my post 233, I offered that overpopulating was the immediate cause for my mistakes over 20 - 30 years either through upsizing to larger tanks or relocating/moving. Again, I've had three or four ich outbreaks over that time frame and am stating exactly why.

Evidently, my offering didn't sit well and was refuted in post 235 and 236, including being told I've still got ich and have been living with ich for 30 years.

Make this a science project, if you like.

Succinctly, two points to marine fish / reef keeping:

1) research your fish / never, ever over populate.
2) take care of your water and there's little need to take care of your fish.

Good luck.


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Unread 05/04/2016, 11:07 AM   #242
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Overpopulation should be avoided but is really off point.

When there is no ich in the tank and none brought in with new fish overpopulation not a relevant issue for this thread. Ich is a parasite that reproduces very rapidly and easily invades tanks with the best water quality and healthy fish when a carrier often with no immediately observable symptoms is introduced. Quarantine and preemptive treatment for new specimens prevents it.Keeping a tank fishless for 72 days eradicates it from the aqaurium. Not a science project; just husbandry based on some rudimentary understanding of the parasite and it's life cycle .


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.

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Unread 06/19/2016, 08:36 AM   #243
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a properly sized and set up UV sterilizer will control ich and perhaps prevent an explosion of population. however, it does not cure ich simply because not all of the water passes through UV. ich also spends little time in the water column.




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Unread 06/21/2016, 05:08 PM   #244
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If you pray very very hard for your fish it should work.


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Unread 06/26/2016, 07:44 AM   #245
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I used a combination of Brightwell Aquatics RedoxIclean and AqualLife Cure by Aquarium Life Support Systems and it cleared up the ich


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Unread 07/15/2016, 11:13 PM   #246
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I over feed and use garlic extract and the ich on my purple tang has never seem to go away completely.It seems to come back every once in a while.I guess I should do a fresh water dip.I do not know what to look for with signs of trouble.I am some what new to this sort of thing.Any advise would be of great help.


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Unread 07/25/2016, 11:08 PM   #247
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How would a person QT a fish that needs a large tank? I realize a QT the size of the DT would be ideal bit thats just not doable.

How hard is it on a large fish (lets say large Tangs and such.) to keep it in a small tank? (55 gal QT? for 75 days?) I will be setting up a large tank ( 500 gal) and this is something i have been thinking about for a while.


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Unread 07/25/2016, 11:17 PM   #248
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Im setting up a large DT (500 gal). even using a 55 gal as a QT that seems verry hard on a fish that wants a large tank...

Should I be thinking about a 100 gal QT? 75 days in a 55 seems quite hard on the fish...
what about fish that eat pods? how dose one keep a fish like that alive in a sterile BB tank for the life cycle of ICH?

even 75 days seems sketchy as there's no telling where the ICH is in its life cycle. so 90 days? That lets me stock 4 fish per year...


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I must not fear.
Fear is the mind-killer.
Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration.
I will face my fear.
I will permit it to pass over me and through me.
And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path.
Where the fear has gone there will be nothing.
Only I will remain.

Current Tank Info: Soon to be 500 gallon mixed reef!

Last edited by Cope; 07/25/2016 at 11:33 PM.
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Unread 08/02/2016, 10:08 AM   #249
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Quote:
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How would a person QT a fish that needs a large tank? I realize a QT the size of the DT would be ideal bit thats just not doable.

How hard is it on a large fish (lets say large Tangs and such.) to keep it in a small tank? (55 gal QT? for 75 days?) I will be setting up a large tank ( 500 gal) and this is something i have been thinking about for a while.
I am keeping a 6" tang (tennenti) in a 20g for 28 days right now. whereas life likely isn't fun, they can and do just fine. i have kept 6 4" tang's in a 30g for 60 days before. same thing. just keep focused on your end goal of giving them ample space in a 500g tank... they will love you at the point, well worth the wait (relative to other options other than the sea of course).

i have a 450g and have QT'ed every fish that has gone in there... probably 50+ by now. i have viewed the slow adding process as a positive, both for $$$ reasons and also to 'get to know the new fish'... sounds dumb, but I feel that i do have a more personal connection with fish that I have cared for in the QT process (1 on 1 attention).

I'm not sure where you are getting 75 or 90 days from, but for a fish it only takes 12 days of treatment (TTM) to be sure Ich is gone. It is up to you on how long to observe your fish subsequent to the 12 days. I do 28 days, some do 60. It is all up to your own personal risk tolerance. most say the bare minimum is 28 days to ensure no velvet or brook pops up (will show its ugly face within 3 weeks).


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Unread 08/11/2016, 03:17 PM   #250
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How can I treat my entire reef tank for ich?

I have a blue hippo tang, a yellow tang, a scopas tang, a fire angel, rainbow wrasse and two maroon clowns. Everyone was QT before they went into the main tank. I've noticed the blue tang rubbing a little on the rocks and visiting the cleaner shrimp "garage". Is this an early indication of ich? Is there a way to safely treat the entire tank? My tank is a reef tank, complete with corals, live rock, sand and anemones. All of the readings have been on target. We run a sump pump and have good water flow and movement. There have been no drastic changes in temperature or water quality. We feed reef frenzy and raw shrimp with some dry flakes thrown in once in a while. Everyone is eating well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Some of these fish are so fast there is no way I'm gonna catch them!!


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