Switching plan to AF

[timhhl]

Ok, I'm convinced by that using AF will promise good result of coral growth and coloration. And the good news is, I found a LFS selling AF products in HK.

What now? I need a switching plan as I was a fan of redsea and zeovit. And with the mix of products from both, I managed to keep a ULNS. What my SPS dominated tank needs is "coloration"!

My tank is a 28G redsea nano refeer... Products I'm using are:
RS salt - for 30L water change per week, the Mg is too low by this salt and I struggle to
keep the target Mg level
RS reef foundation A, B & C
RS coral coloration A, B, C & D
RS reef power A & B
RS NO3PO4-x
KZ sponge power
KZ bio-mate
KENT reef carbon
ROWA phos

What AF products and the amount I will need to phase out the above.....

Need your help. Thanks.

[Alfrareef]

Just one advice: go easy with the adoption. I went for that same promise and end up with tens of white corals. Of course I can't exactly relate one thing to another but it was the only thing that I changed... for your information I've gone with the suggested dosage.

[plyle02]

Originally Posted by timhhl

Ok, I'm convinced by that using AF will promise good result of coral growth and coloration. And the good news is, I found a LFS selling AF products in HK.

What now? I need a switching plan as I was a fan of redsea and zeovit. And with the mix of products from both, I managed to keep a ULNS. What my SPS dominated tank needs is "coloration"!

My tank is a 28G redsea nano refeer... Products I'm using are:
RS salt - for 30L water change per week, the Mg is too low by this salt and I struggle to
keep the target Mg level
RS reef foundation A, B & C
RS coral coloration A, B, C & D
RS reef power A & B
RS NO3PO4-x
KZ sponge power
KZ bio-mate
KENT reef carbon
ROWA phos

What AF products and the amount I will need to phase out the above.....

Need your help. Thanks.

As with everything, a bit of time reading through threads and looking over each product will most certainly advance your knowledge, and is imperative to success, regardless of any philosophy of reef keeping. Here is a link to AF site for downloading product and user guides.

http://aquaforest.eu/en/download/

You can begin transition with simple water changes at 10% to whether with Reef Salt or Probiotic Reef Salt. The basis for the system is NP Pro and Pro Bio S, they are your liquid carbon and bacteria dosing routine to help lower N&P. AF carbon can be used passive or active, but will help remove contaminants. Many expand their bio-diversity through use of biological medias, like siporax, matrix, media blocks, and of course AF Life Bio Fil. AF Life Bio Fil is pre-seeded with bacteria, so the media begins to work without weeks and weeks of seeding time. You can use AF Phosphate Minus to further break down phosphates, should you have this problem. With higher fish loads, you can run Zeo Mix, in fact, you can stack Zeo Mix, Carbon, and Phosphate Minus in one single reactor, changed around every 4-6 weeks. There is also the Chemistry side to AF, a premix version of balling, with the benefit of trace, in 3 5 liter bottles, intended to dose equally to satisfy all minerals and trace, used on a doser this is great. So much to talk with respect to transition. So do some homework, and let us know if you need further guidance. Cheers

[timhhl]

Originally Posted by plyle02

As with everything, a bit of time reading through threads and looking over each product will most certainly advance your knowledge, and is imperative to success, regardless of any philosophy of reef keeping. Here is a link to AF site for downloading product and user guides.

http://aquaforest.eu/en/download/

You can begin transition with simple water changes at 10% to whether with Reef Salt or Probiotic Reef Salt. The basis for the system is NP Pro and Pro Bio S, they are your liquid carbon and bacteria dosing routine to help lower N&P. AF carbon can be used passive or active, but will help remove contaminants. Many expand their bio-diversity through use of biological medias, like siporax, matrix, media blocks, and of course AF Life Bio Fil. AF Life Bio Fil is pre-seeded with bacteria, so the media begins to work without weeks and weeks of seeding time. You can use AF Phosphate Minus to further break down phosphates, should you have this problem. With higher fish loads, you can run Zeo Mix, in fact, you can stack Zeo Mix, Carbon, and Phosphate Minus in one single reactor, changed around every 4-6 weeks. There is also the Chemistry side to AF, a premix version of balling, with the benefit of trace, in 3 5 liter bottles, intended to dose equally to satisfy all minerals and trace, used on a doser this is great. So much to talk with respect to transition. So do some homework, and let us know if you need further guidance. Cheers

Thanks for your advices.

[timhhl]

Originally Posted by Alfrareef

Just one advice: go easy with the adoption. I went for that same promise and end up with tens of white corals. Of course I can't exactly relate one thing to another but it was the only thing that I changed... for your information I've gone with the suggested dosage.

Sorry to hear that. I should do it with more cautious.

[timhhl]

Originally Posted by plyle02

As with everything, a bit of time reading through threads and looking over each product will most certainly advance your knowledge, and is imperative to success, regardless of any philosophy of reef keeping. Here is a link to AF site for downloading product and user guides.



http://aquaforest.eu/en/download/



You can begin transition with simple water changes at 10% to whether with Reef Salt or Probiotic Reef Salt. The basis for the system is NP Pro and Pro Bio S, they are your liquid carbon and bacteria dosing routine to help lower N&P. AF carbon can be used passive or active, but will help remove contaminants. Many expand their bio-diversity through use of biological medias, like siporax, matrix, media blocks, and of course AF Life Bio Fil. AF Life Bio Fil is pre-seeded with bacteria, so the media begins to work without weeks and weeks of seeding time. You can use AF Phosphate Minus to further break down phosphates, should you have this problem. With higher fish loads, you can run Zeo Mix, in fact, you can stack Zeo Mix, Carbon, and Phosphate Minus in one single reactor, changed around every 4-6 weeks. There is also the Chemistry side to AF, a premix version of balling, with the benefit of trace, in 3 5 liter bottles, intended to dose equally to satisfy all minerals and trace, used on a doser this is great. So much to talk with respect to transition. So do some homework, and let us know if you need further guidance. Cheers

Hi Plyle,
If you have any advise whether there will be any issue if I do 30% WC per week with the new salt so as to switch it from the old one? Thanks.

[plyle02]

Hello,
If you use Probiotic Salt, that is too risky, the nutrients will drop considerably with the Bacteria and Carbon source, I would not recommend more than 20%, and 10% there after

[GoVols]

Originally Posted by plyle02

hello,
if you use probiotic salt, that is too risky, the nutrients will drop considerably with the bacteria and carbon source, i would not recommend more than 20%, and 10% there after

+1

[timhhl]

Originally Posted by plyle02

Hello,
If you use Probiotic Salt, that is too risky, the nutrients will drop considerably with the Bacteria and Carbon source, I would not recommend more than 20%, and 10% there after

How about if I'm going to use reef salt?

[GoVols]

Originally Posted by timhhl

How about if I'm going to use reef salt?

Then you can make more aggressive with water changes

Component 1+ 2+ 3+ (liquid 3 pack) is a great dosing product. I used it for about 7 months.

You may be able to knock out RS A, B, C and Corals colors with it.

I'm a big RS fan too and Using ABC+ powder with coral colors C & D with great success. ABC+ already have coral colors A and B in it.

I mix and match the products in different brands I like from different companies.
'
Follow Perry's lead over here. (He's the AF US man )

[timhhl]

Originally Posted by GoVols

Then you can make more aggressive with water changes

Component 1+ 2+ 3+ (liquid 3 pack) is a great dosing product. I used it for about 7 months.

You may be able to knock out RS A, B, C and Corals colors with it.

I'm a big RS fan too and Using ABC+ powder with coral colors C & D with great success. ABC+ already have coral colors A and B in it.

I mix and match the products in different brands I like from different companies.
'
Follow Perry's lead over here. (He's the AF US man )

Hi GoVols,
I've planned to go for AF reef salt but the FS wrongly sent me a probiotic one. I'm thinking of giving it a shot. Can you please let me know your switching plan and what you've come across when you're shifting to AF.
Thanks.

[GoVols]

Originally Posted by timhhl

Hi GoVols,
I've planned to go for AF reef salt but the FS wrongly sent me a probiotic one. I'm thinking of giving it a shot. Can you please let me know your switching plan and what you've come across when you're shifting to AF.
Thanks.

Back @ ya timhhl
I only ran the Reef Salt.
I used Tropic Bio Actif in the past that's similar to AF Probiotic.
You need to take it slow with the AF Probiotic.

Perry, Is the AF man over here to help you.

I have limited knowledge and wisdom of the entire AF product line.

Follow "Perry's" lead

I've gotten to know him enough that I fully trust his incite on anything "Reef Aquarium" related.

[plyle02]

Thank Freddie, you are too kind my friend

If switching to Probiotic Reef Salt, simply displace 10% weekly. Nothing more, nothing less. If you cannot manage 10% weekly, every other week will suffice. Keep in mind your SPS will likely have a very positive response, the bacteria, aminos, and vitamins will likely stimulate feeder polyps, unlike salt I have used before, usually water changes shut down polyps. Don't let this falsely guide you, slow consistent changes are best for any marine animals, so take your time, allow observation to guide you. Be careful with NOPOX, as it is aggressive at NO3 reduction, add that with the Probiotic Salt, and you may become too low, so keep an eye on nutrient levels. Maintaining a spot of NO3 and PO4 is positive, and needed for coral health. Cheers