Garf method of glass tank building?

[lanshark]

Anybody build a glass tank using the bottom elevated inside the four sides? Sounds like it would make for strong seal around bottom. As tank would be supported by side/back/front panes, would 1/4 inch foam be used under bottom?

Cheers!

[BeanAnimal]

No foam is used in that style of tank, but the bottom edge of the panels needs to be supported evenly and protected. In OEM tanks this is achieved by silicone sealant and plastic trim The combination prevents point loading of the panel edges.

You could use foam for the purpose, but the stand top still has to be pefectly planar and the foam only less than the thickness of the gap between the edge and the bottom pane. That is you don't want the foam to compress at the edges and touch the bottom pane.

Please understand that the foam can do nothing to fix an uneven stand, its purpose is to prevent isolated point loading due to a small bump or ridge in the stand top.

[lanshark]

Interesting, Garf doesn't make mention of that bottom support? Unless he is saying that the doll rods are to stay in place after the build for support?

[BeanAnimal]

Now the dowels are just spacers used during the build...

While there is a lot of wonderful information at GARF, in my opinion there is also a fiar amount of suspect advice. I have not looked at their tank build guidlines in a long time so really can't comment on the quality of the information.

[knight2255]

Anybody know of an example of this style aquarium?

Also, with the GARF method of top bracing.....does anyone have pics/examples of that?

[uncleof6]

The GARF method, uses some practices that could be considered unsafe. Using tape to secure a curing aquarium, is unsound, as even vibrations of the surface the tank is sitting on while curing, can cause a seam failure. Proper clamps need to be used. Also, the choice of silicone used, is extremely critical to the longevity of your tank: longer than one day.

In general, even with eruobraced tanks, the sides need to be thicker than the GARF calculators indicates. (Depends on the height, and to a lesser extent, length.

Although the method (raised bottom) is used often, the bottom glass panel cannot be the same thickness as the sides, it must be thicker, and is calculated separate from the calculations for the side, giving a more rigid bottom panel, and a wider bottom seam. The advantage of this construction configuration is that it can be supported the same as a rimmed glass tank, not requiring a full stand top, rather just the frame, and foam should never be used, on these type of tanks.

As BA mentioned, GARF is an excellent resource for all things reef, however, there are some issues with some of it.

[knight2255]

Originally Posted by uncleof6

The GARF method, uses some practices that could be considered unsafe. Using tape to secure a curing aquarium, is unsound, as even vibrations of the surface the tank is sitting on while curing, can cause a seam failure. Proper clamps need to be used. Also, the choice of silicone used, is extremely critical to the longevity of your tank: longer than one day.

In general, even with eruobraced tanks, the sides need to be thicker than the GARF calculators indicates. (Depends on the height, and to a lesser extent, length.

Although the method (raised bottom) is used often, the bottom glass panel cannot be the same thickness as the sides, it must be thicker, and is calculated separate from the calculations for the side, giving a more rigid bottom panel, and a wider bottom seam. The advantage of this construction configuration is that it can be supported the same as a rimmed glass tank, not requiring a full stand top, rather just the frame, and foam should never be used, on these type of tanks.

As BA mentioned, GARF is an excellent resource for all things reef, however, there are some issues with some of it.

Thanks, I'd like to build a long and skinny glass tank...maybe 96"L x 18"W x 24"H....what method would you recommend?

[NanoReefWanabe]

Originally Posted by knight2255

Thanks, I'd like to build a long and skinny glass tank...maybe 96"L x 18"W x 24"H....what method would you recommend?

i realize this is a DIY forum but,store bought is a better option, with those dimensions so close to those that you will find in a manufactured tank i wouldnt bother with trying to build it myself...it will cost a lot more to build yourself then to buy it...

custom/ DIY tanks are generally left to odd shapes and funny sizes...180g tanks are certainly not for beginners, though i dont want to discourage building it yourself, it can just be had a lot easier through a store...and take your saved money to DIY skimmers etc as they are painfully overpriced for the most part...or DIY the rock as it is certainly overpriced too..

that said, bean and uncle have covered the points concerning GARF's tank design...

[uncleof6]

Originally Posted by knight2255

Thanks, I'd like to build a long and skinny glass tank...maybe 96"L x 18"W x 24"H....what method would you recommend?

Right out of the gate, aside from what wanabe said (which is the plain truth) dimensions: 96"L x 24"W x 18" - 24"H--Don't build a custom tank that is WORSE than what the manufacturers make. Aside from this tank suffocating (despite anecdotal comments) you will have NO room under it for any kind of reasonable sump, that can handle a reasonable flow rate.

As far as construction configuration, it doesn't matter. Which ever you would be happy with.

[Tedsport]

any examples of the top bracing?

[uncleof6]

Bomb proof. Note the bottom internal "euro" which is required in most cases, with tanks that do not use a thicker bottom panel, or traditional rim. In the case of the "GARF" build configuration (full floated bottom,) a thicker bottom panel is required. A bottom internal "euro" does little to mitigate the deflection of the bottom panel. Factory rimmed tanks, which are full floated (the bottom panel does not rest on the stand top,) use a thicker bottom panel OR a tempered bottom panel to lower the shipping weight.

[BeanAnimal]

Just going to toss this out there...

Glass Tank building is not black magic. The process and formulas are very basic. The skills are not complex.

That said, there is not a chance I would undertake a large DIY glass tank build. There is just way to much that can go wrong, especially without having experience, a mentor, or plenty of trial and error under your belt. You risk property damage and/or physical injury at a fairly high probability as a DIY glass tank builder.

Ask Uncle what happens when you make a mistake, even as an experienced tank builder.

[ca1ore]

Originally Posted by uncleof6

Bomb proof. Note the bottom internal "euro" which is required in most cases, with tanks that do not use a thicker bottom panel, or traditional rim. In the case of the "GARF" build configuration (full floated bottom,) a thicker bottom panel is required. A bottom internal "euro" does little to mitigate the deflection of the bottom panel. Factory rimmed tanks, which are full floated (the bottom panel does not rest on the stand top,) use a thicker bottom panel OR a tempered bottom panel to lower the shipping weight.

As a point of clarification, are you saying you think the GC design is a good one or a bad one ('bomb proof' would suggest the former)? I ask only because I am considering one . I have also seen some custom shops put a 'euro' strip on the four vertical corners as well.

[Mysticalknight]

Sorry accidentally posted a single letter to and cannot delete my own post............