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03/26/2012, 08:49 AM | #1001 |
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Dan. Did you incorporate the potentiometer? If not then you need to reconfig your code/sketch to a lower jntensity settings. Maybe start with 50%. Then go up from there weekly.
if not then old school way, raise your lighting up way up, or put screens.... . |
03/26/2012, 09:14 AM | #1002 |
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Nope, I'll just mod the sketch, I'm pretty comfortable with code so a little tweak here and there isn't a big deal.
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03/26/2012, 09:27 AM | #1003 |
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Haha, thats good. when youre done with the sketch, if i can have a copy, that would be awesome.... I have been thinkering about that too..
Thanks. |
03/26/2012, 09:34 AM | #1004 | |
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Katchupoy,
Any specific goals you have? If so I can try and add them. I would love to give back to this project, as you have done so much already for all of us following it. Dan Quote:
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03/27/2012, 02:39 PM | #1005 |
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I would like to ask the experts here what their thoughts are.
I have a 93 cube 30x30 x27 high My plan was to use a 250w MH with LED for actinic and some white. The plan was to have the LEDs come on first, then around 5pm have the mh on with the LEDs to 10ish then the MH goes off, at 11ish the LEDs go off. I don't think I need dimmable? I don't know what mix of LED to use I am looking on the rapidled websit and it seems like the 24 ultra premium kit could work http://www.rapidled.com/24-ultra-pre...-retrofit-kit/ Thoughts? Thanks
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03/27/2012, 11:53 PM | #1006 | |
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Quote:
My thoughts here are not using the MH's but instead using about 60 3 Watt Cree LED's. You could split them up 12 neutral whites, 24 Blues, and 24 Royal Blues. Run 2" channeling for your heat sinks and with a 30 X 30 tank you can easily run 8 seperate channl with a 1 inch spacing bewtween them. This would allow you room for a 4" spacing and with 2" channeling you would get 32 square inces of cooling per LED which is more than enough without using fans. Rapid LED's heat sinks are great for tight spacing but all heat sinks are expensive and in your case you can get away without them. The only issue is what size lenses would work on your system best. With 27" of hight You probably want to use them. But the big variable is how high above the substrate your LED's will be. No Lens = 120 degrees for full bottom coverage = 18" over the substrate. 80 degree lenses = 23" over the substrate. 60 degree lenses = 30" over the substrate 40 degree lenses = 42" over the substrate. Now if you decide to still go with the MH's I suggest you run the LED suplement on two rails one in the back and one in the front of the tank. Put the rails so the LED's are at a 45 degree angle without lenses facing the oposite corner on the bottom of the tank. This will give maximium shimmer. Run the LED's 3" apart so you have maximium shimmer. Run 10 LED's on each rail alternating them between royal blue and blue. Total 20 LED's. Also use two LPC 35-700 Drivers one for each rail.
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Dennis B. Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons |
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03/28/2012, 10:15 AM | #1007 |
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I was going to use the MH because I have it from a old setup.
I have both 250w and 400w ballasts. I figured I could start with the LEDs for supplement lighting for now and change to full by adding more later. Does this sound reasonable, or am I missing something? Also is that combo of royal blue and blue and replacment for atinic? Thanks for the input.
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03/28/2012, 11:42 AM | #1008 | |
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Quote:
You could say Blues are just lightly more blue than a 20,000K MH bulb. The Royal Blues are more Blue Blue Violet than even atinics. I like the look of a 50/50 mix between these. With White LED's it does not take a lot to start neutralizing the blue. I'm running 8 Royal Blues, 8 Blues, 2 Cyan and 2 Neutral Whites on my 40 gallon and it is close to a 20,000K look. When I order LED's next I'll be upping it to 6 Whites total hoping it does not get too white for my tastes. If you run the 10 Blues and 10 Royal blues at 700 ma you will have 20 Watts of LED's which is the equivelent of about 120 watts of average T-5's or 180 Watts of PC atinics. Use the 45 angle on these and you will love the shimmer effect. Later you can add another 3 or 4 Strips of LED's when you decide to get ride of your MH's. This is basicly what I'm doing with my 120 gallon only I have T-5's I'm suplementing with LED's for now.
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Dennis B. Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons |
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03/28/2012, 04:39 PM | #1009 |
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well i getting close i think
So here goes, not really sure how to alternate the leds but tried the best i could tell me what you think and please offer criticsm......
thanks guys |
03/28/2012, 06:14 PM | #1010 |
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oops forgot picture
OK some specs now
each module.....only building one to start. the channel is 1 x 1 aluminum u channel there will be 8 rows, 18 inches in length the cahnnels will be 1 inch spaced except for the outer row which will be 1.5 inches and this row will also be tilted at a 30-45 degree angle pointing to the center of the tank. Another great suggestion I thought. 6 leds per row at 3 inch spacing, and it will be ran by 4 dimmamable drivers 20 Blue XPE 16 Royal Blue XPE 8 Natural White XPG 4 Cyan Phillips Rebel This is the current breakdown of the LEDS there will be 4 phases in each module as suggested by a very helpful sole. So i will end up having a simple dawn and dusk affect. Last edited by beginnersluckpg; 03/28/2012 at 06:47 PM. |
03/28/2012, 09:19 PM | #1011 |
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will you be wiring them by color together? example: all blues? or will you be wiring them by linear strips?
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03/28/2012, 09:24 PM | #1012 |
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Phases
I will be wiring them by color. So four phases.
Phase one 12 blue Phase two 8 royal blue+ 4 cyan Phase three 8 blue + 4 neutral white Phase four 8 royal blue + 4 neutral white |
03/28/2012, 11:40 PM | #1013 | |
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Quote:
However this is a color preference that is personal. I like the tank to get Whiter as well as brighter as it progresses to midday. Your lay out is simular to mine in other regards with total end ratio. mine Phase 1 = 6 Royal Blues + 2 Blues. Phase 2 = 2 Cyan + 4 Blues + 2 Royal Blues. Phase 3 = 4 neutral whites + 4 Blues I'm contemplating swapping the 2 Cyan for Whites or going with 6 neutral whites and 2 blues in phase 3. I want the mid day lighting just a slight bit whiter. But as I often say this is personal taste after the switch might end up likinking it better the way it was.
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Dennis B. Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons |
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03/28/2012, 11:43 PM | #1014 |
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Color make up??
Should I be adding some more whites? I just wonder if it will be over powering, with ll the blue. And do you think the actual bulb layout was ok to. I appreciate your guys help by the way.
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03/28/2012, 11:47 PM | #1015 |
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Sorry shouldn't skim read
I see your blue to white is very similar as what I proposed.
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03/29/2012, 11:05 PM | #1016 |
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Might be a stupid question but could u powder coat the outer faces of the aluminum channel .. Will the adhesive still work??? Or is there a type of paint ? Going to drill holes for all the wires so i can hide them and build a aluminum lid vented with a cooling fan. would like to make the aluminum back round white.
Last edited by beginnersluckpg; 03/29/2012 at 11:06 PM. Reason: Spelling |
03/29/2012, 11:12 PM | #1017 |
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I have also decided to phase the colors a little differently.
1. 12 blue 2. 8 royal blue + 2 cyan + 2 neutral white 3. 6 blue + 2cyan + 4 neutral whites 4. 8 royal blue + 2 neutral whites + 2 blue |
03/30/2012, 09:01 AM | #1018 | |
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Quote:
T0 color the alumnium what they usualy do is anodize it with an elctro plating type operation. It is simular to to the way they used to plate car bumpers years ago onlyt instead of using chrome they use other chemicals. It is very inexpensive on a mass production bases but just doing individual pieces for someone does become costly with set up fees.
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Dennis B. Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons |
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03/30/2012, 09:12 AM | #1019 | |
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Quote:
no whites or cyans on the 1st driver all for Cyan's on the second driver 4 whites on the third driver 4 whites on the fourth driver. I would also misx some of the Blues and Royal Blues into that first driver. But that is my personal color taste since I do not like all Blue or all Royal blues by themselves. But keep in mind once it is up and running you can always fine tune it. I have done it several times myself and usualy after about 2 weeks of running Ill look at it and think it is too blue or purple then swap a couple LED's around whith an initial pleasing effect but then after a while start thinking back it looked like I over did the change and change something else.
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Dennis B. Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons |
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03/30/2012, 09:20 AM | #1020 | |
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Which Lenses?
TropTrea and Katchupoy,
I could use some advice on lenses. I'm thinking I should change the lenses I'm using. I currently have 80 deg lenses on all led's. If I move to the layout proposed by TropTrea below on a standard 90g tank, 36 led XTE Royal Blues and XPG mix of CW and NW. 12 leds on each 48" rail. Here are the key dimensions so you can help me with this decision.
My current thought is to go to 40 or 60 deg lenses on the blues and stay with 80 deg on the whites or possibly drop to 60 deg lenses. Is there a benefit to go to 40 deg lenses on the blues in the front where the substrate is lower (no major rock formations) and to keep extra light off the front glass? Any and all comments appreciated. Dan Quote:
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03/30/2012, 10:23 AM | #1021 | |
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Quote:
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03/30/2012, 12:10 PM | #1022 |
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So a new thought
First thing I have decided is i am going to build a small fixture withe same color ratios for a frag tank and see what I think, if I like it I will proceed with a the 2 modules consisting of 48 LEDs each.
So for starters a 12 led build I ordered from rapid led: 5 blue xpe 4 royal blue 2 neutral whites 1 cyan That is my initial ratio and have ordered a spare of each led except red if I want to change the make up. Went with the p style dimmable ballast. Well see how it goes. I'll keep u posted thanks for all your help tea......much appreciated. |
03/30/2012, 04:12 PM | #1023 | |
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Sorry troptrea
Quote:
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03/30/2012, 10:43 PM | #1024 | |
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Quote:
I would suggest 40 degree lenses on the front row, 60 degree lenses on the 2nd row and 80 degree lenses on the back row.
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Dennis B. Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons |
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03/30/2012, 10:51 PM | #1025 | |
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Quote:
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Dennis B. Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons |
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