Tang Has Ich, going to try hyposalinty

[srusso]

Originally Posted by bnumair

i faced a minute ick problem once. i fed finely chopped garlic to my fish and ick seemed to disappear after that.

+1 on garlic, also did this method first, fish eat more if you get paste or oil on normal food though. At least in my findings... I never removed my hippo tang also cleaner shrimp should help keep it from coming back.

[srusso]

Originally Posted by Palting

LOL!!

Sorry, couldn't help it

Not sure what's funny... Google it, I read a long research document that tested garlic. It has data that shows it works... I will see if I can dig it up later tonight.

[tang named junkyard]

I've had ich 2 times in my reef career (15 years) I beat it both times with a UV light. I know some people will call BS, but in my case I beat it both times with nothing more than a UV. The last bought I had I beat with this cheap (35 to my door) UV. It's a killer little unit and comes with a silent high flow pump installed. The light is still working good in my tank and my ich has never come back. My corals seemed to ad more color and expand a little more as well. I tried the garlic and saw no results.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/9W-Aquarium-...ht_2366wt_1022

[srusso]

http://www.allimed.us/pdf/article/aquacin%5B7%5D.pdf

Not the original document I read, but not a bad one...

[f3honda4me]

I've tried garlic. Doesn't work.

[Mariebaby21]

If my DT is a FO, would hyposalinity work in it? It does have a CC bed so copper wouldn't work correct?

[shifty51008]

no rock and such in the tank? then yes you can do hypo in the main tank but it will kill off all life in the cc bed also if you have snails and such they will have to be moved. as stated a QT tank would be much better

[Shells4]

Mariebaby 21---If you have any type of substrate in your FO tank DO NOT USE HYPOSALINITY in your DT. I learned that the hard way, biggest mistake I ever made. My tank was only 4 months old so I didn't think there would be much life in the agronite at that point. (it was not live when the tank was started). Even asked on a different forum for opinions, most said "no problem if you take out all of your live rock". I removed all the live rock and inverts to a temporary smaller aquarium and left the fish in the DT. The reason I did this was because I had a couple of tangs and thought it would be more stressful for them to be removed to a smaller tank. I dropped the salinity, thought things we going great...then fish started dieing. I hadn't thought to keep a close eye on the ammonia. As the salinity dropped it killed off the bacteria and whatever else was in the substrate and I had a massive ammonia spike, couldn't even read it on the card it was so high. I was doing huge water changes twice a day to no avail. I started using Prime and Stablity and didn't loose any livestock after that. Only hypo a DT if you have a bare bottom and no rock in the tank.

OP---Now I leave a QT set up at all times and have never lost a fish during hyposalinity. I didn't see it mentioned anywhere but you can not let your salanity get higher than 1.009 or the parasite can reproduce. I always drop the salanity to 1.007. I often work a few 14+ hour days in a row and can't keep as close of an eye on the salinity as I would like so that gives me a little bit of wiggle room with no harmful effects on the fish. Just a thought.

[AngGuKueh]

hi for ur advice i tried seachem cupramine and waterlife octozin together within 3 days the ich gone and then after 1 mth i put it back to display tank everything go fine untill now about half year already.

[Mariebaby21]

Thanks for the heads up! But what about using.copper instead oF HS ? Will it work since I have no live rock? Or will it be absorbed into the CC bed?

[MrTuskfish]

I'd post your problem in the disease section of the forum.

[Shells4]

Pretty sure that copper will be absorbed by the CC.

[f3honda4me]

copper will be absorbed into the rock and the CC bed. so you wouldn't be able to have corals or inverts for a very long time until all the copper finally leeched out.

[Palting]

Originally Posted by Mariebaby21

If my DT is a FO, would hyposalinity work in it? It does have a CC bed so copper wouldn't work correct?

Originally Posted by Mariebaby21

Thanks for the heads up! But what about using.copper instead oF HS ? Will it work since I have no live rock? Or will it be absorbed into the CC bed?

If you absolutely MUST, if there is no other choice, hyposalinity can be done with a substrate in place. I did it in my 110 gallon tank, here's a link: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1892446.

There are some very, very heavy caveats, though.
1. You MUST have an alternate means of mature biofiltration. The beneficial bacteria will survive.
2. Other than your fish and the beneficial bacteria, everything else will die. Your shrimps, worms, pods, Ich parasites, etc, etc, will be killed by the hyposalinity. That's why it is so important to have a mature biofiltration to avoid the deadly ammonia spike from this massive die-off. I had both a bioball sump and a cannister filter on mine. No ammonia spike, but I did get a huge nitrate spike.
3. You must do aggressive mechanical filtration and frequent vaccuming of the substrate to get rid of the dead organisms. As posted in that link I gave you, there were a lot of dead stuff on my mechanical ilters and substrate.

Like I said, do this ONLY if you have no other choice. In retrospect, since I was upgrading to the larger 150 at that time anyway, even though I was successful it would have been better if I took out the substrate on my 110 before I did the hyposalinity.