Step-by-Step: Drilling Holes in Your Glass Tank for Bulkheads

[dtaranath]

Originally posted by GoldStripe
There's more than one way to skin a cat but like Dan said it takes some patience cause silicone is tough to work with.

One thing I found was that silicone is much easier to work with if you use the small tubes of silicone that you squeeze out with your hand (like toothpaste). I did the inside of my overflow with the gun/trigger tubes of silicone, and it was much more difficult and came out messier. I did the underside and outer edge of the overflow with the tubes and it was much easier and came out very neat. When I go home today I'll take a picture to show you the difference.

Unfortunately, the tubes of silicone cost about the same as the larger tubes for the guns, but it contains about 1/4 the amount of silicone. Overall, it would end up more expensive, but the end result is a cleaner look, which IMO is worth it.

[dtaranath]

Originally posted by tcottle
Thanks - because of this thread I have sucessfully drilled my first tank. It was scary how easy it was!

nice job. one thing you may want to consider is either putting unions on each of the downpipes coming from the bulkheads, or one union on the downpipe from the tee junction. THis would be helpful for easier removal of your pipes in case you need to move the tank for maintenance or some other reason.

[GoldStripe]

I agree, and did put them on mine

[pactrop]

I try to put as many unions as possible. right near the bulk head, right by the pump, and anywhere that the pvc might be in the way someday. Unions are a gift from the reef gods.

[zeblisik]

when i siliconed my overflows I put the tank on its side, did the bottom on first. I held it in place for a while and checked it visually. let it set for a little while and came back to make any adjustments.

for the vertical piece, which is now horizontal as the tank is on its side, i used several decks of cards to stand it up to the right height and applied silicone.

mine arent completely at right angles but for the most part quite square.

[Grace's Dad]

In case BallaBooyeah doesn't get the pm. What size bit did you go with for the 2" bulkhead?
My drill caught right at the end of drilling for a 1" bulkhead. The hole has a small crack and I'm going to try and save it by drilling for a 2" bulkhead.

The first two holes came out perfect though.

[swedish steel]

I used an 85mm hole saw, but check the hole diameter required for the bulkhead you intend to use before ordering the hole saw and before drilling.

[BallaBooyeaH]

Graces dad,
I used a 65mm but this will notfit US 2" bulkheads.
I suggest you get in touch with the suppliers first who have the bulk head to see what the OD is. If there is a crack - I would go for the biggest so it is all covered up.
When drilling - make sure there is support under the glass it it does not happen again.

Good luck.

[Grace's Dad]

My problem is no longer drilling for a bulkhead, but drilling to cut out the crack. I driled with a 45mm bit for 1" bulkhead (about a 2"hole)and the crack extends about 1/4" to 1/2" past the bulkhead. I am thinking/hoping that a 3 1/4" hole will cut it out. I will also be breaking the diameter of hole to edge of tank rule.

[BallaBooyeaH]

Dosent look to bad. I would be carefull as not to let the crack get bigger when you start drilling the hole. Make sure there is only the weight of the drill so the crack does not get any bigger.

I have gone close to the edge but I think that will not be a problem. well have a go anyway and let us know how you go. I'd say a 85 mm hole will be needed. just use the existing edge as the start point and eat up that crack with the rest of the drill bit.

Good luck.

[Grace's Dad]

That was my plan. Trying to figure out how I will get my angled ridge started. I am afraid that once the drilling starts that some vibrations may cause the crack to spread.

[aurorahokie]

Originally posted by jman77
Auro ...did you use a drill guide ? I'm not sure if i should use one when i drill my tank.... The 45mm hole bit is for what sized bulkhead ?

I did not use a guide and I have a few scuff marks, but nothing noticeable after installing the bulkheads. The 45mm is for 1" bulkheads.

Chip

[spmedi]

Not a great photo for this, but thanks!!
2 - 1" bulkheads are now in my 40 BR.

[Lcattin]

Thanks for all the advice from this thread. Because of it I was able to successfully drill two 1 3/4" holes in the back panel of my 65 gallon tank. Got my hole saw from the Hong Kong seller on Ebay like many of you have. I didn't even do the putty or cup around the hole. Just took the tank out to the driveway and got the neighbor to keep the saw flooded with water. Took me about a minute and a half for each hole.

Thanks again for all the encouragment and help from all the posts.

Les

[mnmnm1951]

Well, The deed is done and it looks GREAT!
185 gallon Bowfront now has ten holes in the back.
It is really amazing how easy it was.

Ordered two 60 mm and four 45 mm saws from Lau on ebay. They got here in four days with regular shipping ! Now THAT rocks!

I drilled two 60mm holes for the return that will by joined into one pipe feeding the Dart pump and drilled eight 45mm holes for the OceansMotion 8-way return. I got all eight holes out of a single bit! Each of the 60mm holes took about 20 minutes with the 45mm holes averaging less than ten minutes. Metal ducting tape on the back prevented all but a little chipping when the saw cut through.

Bulkheads are all installed waiting for the OM eight way.

Thanks to all participants on the thread for your experiences and advice

[mdellyd]

e

[JustOneMoreTank]

Originally posted by mnmnm1951
Well, The deed is done and it looks GREAT!
185 gallon Bowfront now has ten holes in the back.
It is really amazing how easy it was.

Ordered two 60 mm and four 45 mm saws from Lau on ebay. They got here in four days with regular shipping ! Now THAT rocks!

I drilled two 60mm holes for the return that will by joined into one pipe feeding the Dart pump and drilled eight 45mm holes for the OceansMotion 8-way return. I got all eight holes out of a single bit! Each of the 60mm holes took about 20 minutes with the 45mm holes averaging less than ten minutes. Metal ducting tape on the back prevented all but a little chipping when the saw cut through.

Bulkheads are all installed waiting for the OM eight way.

Thanks to all participants on the thread for your experiences and advice

That sure was a lot of drilling! Congrats. Now the difficult part... plumbing all of those lines for the CL. Good luck and let us all see how it turns out. We want pictures!

[pactrop]

I did a few holes also using all the advice I got on this thread. Thank you.

for my water flow while drilling I used a five gallon bucket full of water with a air line siphoning out the water on to the bit. It helped to have a lead holding down the line.

[Triggerfish]

Originally posted by JustOneMoreTank
Ahhh... forgot this little list:
Diamond Hole Saw size 60mm = 1.5 inch Bulkhead

looking to put in the 1.5" bulkhead,,i got the 60mm bit from Lau..
however, the standard 1.5 bulkhead looks like it is requiring a
2 3/8" hole size.
the 60mm bit looks like it is roughly 1/32 small.

anyone able to fit a standard bhead in the 60mm hole without needing to grind it out more?

[swedish steel]

Triggerfish - sorry to read about your bulkhead hole size problem. My 1 1/2 inch bulkheads are schedule 80 requiring a 2 9/16 " hole, which is 65.0875 MM. It is important to do the math before ordering the hole saws and drilling. If you grind your hole out to fit the bulkhead, be sure to wear proper respiratory protection as that is powdered glass that you do not want in your lungs. Good luck.

[Triggerfish]

yes,,i was assuming it would have been pretty standard..
i think i may have found one that looks like it is measuring 2 5/16
which may just fit.
thx for the tip.

[mbunaman]

I am going to try this out just bought a 48mm for a 1" schedule 80 bulkhead. What can I use to debur the hole after drilling to prevent finger from getting cut. Any help would be appreciated.

[Barto]

I had to do an "EMERGENCY" drill job late last night.
75 in livingroom sprung a leak. 75 WAS my cichlid show tank, and was going to be my reef. The show cichlid tank was switching to a 90 in my office. 90 needed to be drilled for overflow to a sump.
No huge rush in my mind, I'm waiting my diy rocks to cure before startup.
Found the leak about midnight, dropped water level about 60 %, removed some rocks, off to the garage to drill the 90 and silicone the internal overflow box in place.
Build the stand for the office, straight 2X framing, entire stand is hidden behind credenza.
move substrate, fish canister filter and some water. Brought level to 3-4 inches from bottom of fresh silicone.
In bed by 3:30
I am so glad I had the drill bit, the glass and the plan ready, if I stocked that tank undrilled, it never would have been done.
Tomorrow I'll worry about the 75 and raise the water to the overflow inthe 90.

[swedish steel]

mbunaman - you shouldn't have to worry about cutting your finger on the hole edge. I worked for Boeing for three years and, as you are probably aware, was concerned about possible stress cracks developing at the chipped areas around the hole edges. Therefore, I bought a Dremel Tool with a flexible wand, used a respirator, and made all these areas smooth on 24 holes in my two tanks. This may have been overkill, but this was the time to do it so I wouldn't have to wish I had later. HTH

[ybenormal]

What bit did you use to grind the edges smooth?