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02/07/2018, 09:32 PM | #5051 | |
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Quote:
Wow! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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02/08/2018, 08:35 AM | #5052 |
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Location: waddell, AZ
Posts: 255
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I have a AI hydra 52HD over my IM Lagoon 50. I am having problems at the center of the tank.
Light is mounted 8” above water surface. I have my aquascape max height 8” below surface. Nothing is happy in the center of the tank except GSP on the surface. Anything that goes up on the highest point bleaches or dies(after acclimation period). Is this light just overkill or can it be usable. These settings are from my LFS recommendation. Phosphates are a little high in the document but have come back down to normal levels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
02/08/2018, 08:42 AM | #5053 | |
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Location: Punta Gorda, FL
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Quote:
Use my sps AB+ settings. Your cool white channels are way to high Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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02/08/2018, 08:45 AM | #5054 | |
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Quote:
I have been reading about the ab+ settings. Is this something I input manually or is there a way to load it into the light. Also where do I find your settings just browse this forum? Thanks a lot for the response! I’ve been regretting these lights ever since I bought them haha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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02/08/2018, 08:51 AM | #5055 |
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Your issue is twofold. The OSRAM cool white diodes are notoriously hard on zooxanthella for some reason. This is born out in observation but interestingly not in any par readings I have obtained. Second issue is your lights are too close to the water imo. If at all possible raise them up as high as the tank mount will allow or 12-16” if using the hanging kit. This is the link to the schedule https://1drv.ms/u/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgbgngeuJT6zWysLhkg
As far as the upload instructions I don’t have time to find them at the moment but they are in this thread multiple times. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
02/08/2018, 08:53 AM | #5056 |
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Okay I’ll find them. Haha this thread is crazy long!!!!
Again thanks a lot for your input. I have raised my lights to 12” need to move the tank because the spill over hits my couch hence the 8” mount. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
02/08/2018, 09:05 AM | #5057 |
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Do I run an acclimation period for this?
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02/08/2018, 09:26 AM | #5058 |
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02/09/2018, 09:59 AM | #5059 |
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Another question.
If I were to run this light closer to the water than 12” could I run the settings a bit lower or would that change the whole dynamics of the settings? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
02/09/2018, 11:05 AM | #5060 | |
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Location: Punta Gorda, FL
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Quote:
The problem with running them closer has nothing to do with intensity but light blending since leds are a point source and not a diffuse light source. The optical lensing cause by surface agitation separates this relatively undiffuse light from the leds and focuses them causing the dreaded disco effect and hotspotting. This effect is reduced the more blended the light is when it hits the surface of the water. The only thing that helps this is more distance between the source and the lens. In our use case height above water. You can try lowering the light intensity if you see signs of light stress but ime this has little effect since the par spikes cause by lensing can easily top 900 on normal coral growing settings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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02/09/2018, 01:12 PM | #5061 |
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Location: waddell, AZ
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I’ll leave them at 12”
Thanks again Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
02/11/2018, 09:01 AM | #5062 |
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Location: So Cal
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Question - I'm curious how many Hydra owners are setting their lights up using the Kelvin scale? And if you are ,at what intensity? Personally I'm not, but was playing around the other day and it looked interesting.
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02/11/2018, 10:02 AM | #5063 | |
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Quote:
Problem I find with the Kelvin scale, is in general it uses too much light from the cool white diodes to “warm” up the display. These diodes are harsh on corals for some reason I don’t quite understand. I really wish AI and ecotech (in the Radions) would switch the osram cool white diodes out for a mix of warm and soft white. If you have seen a Phillips coral care in action it has a large portion of these diodes and can actually put out nice light in the 10-14k range without frying your corals. Kessils are able to do much the same but I find their light leaves way too many shadows with sps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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02/12/2018, 10:18 AM | #5064 |
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Posts: 79
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Wanted to get everyone's thoughts. Right now i have the Hydra 52HD using Orcus' T5 setup. Right now i have two bulbs (Blue+& Coral+) on 3 hrs. I'm looking to add two more of the same T5's. What do you think i should start out timeframe when i add the two extra T5's?
Thanks
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02/12/2018, 07:42 PM | #5065 | |
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Quote:
What size tank and what are you trying to grow? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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02/13/2018, 05:10 AM | #5066 | |
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Quote:
I don't have a Par meter to see what i am getting currently with this setup. Might have to treat myself with a Seneye down the road.
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02/13/2018, 05:17 AM | #5067 | |
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Quote:
You can totally add the extra lamps whenever. I would add them, put the hydra on 30% acclimation for a few months and work to increase both the hydra and t5 to 7 hrs at peak daylight. Since the tank is so large with only 1 hydra you can work up to running my full power schedule if you aren’t already. With that setup most of the tank will be blanketed with 200-250 par and place the acros directly under the hydra where par will be in the 350-450 range. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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02/13/2018, 08:33 AM | #5068 |
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Location: Baldwin,ny
Posts: 82
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Good morning @Orcus Varuna is your scheme on fusion ? I would like to take a look at it.
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02/13/2018, 10:47 AM | #5069 | |
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Quote:
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Current Tank: 90 Gal SCA Cube Mixed Reef (Build Stage) Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2600702 |
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02/13/2018, 05:08 PM | #5070 |
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02/13/2018, 05:10 PM | #5071 | |
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Quote:
I think that would work pretty well. Just watch the corals for signs of light shock or just not looking right and back off if necessary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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02/13/2018, 09:23 PM | #5072 |
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Location: Angola, Indiana
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What do those of you that have a fully stocked tank do to acclimate coral? I've always used t5's but this time around I'm going with 2 hydra's and 2 t5's in the canopy of my 120. With the t5's I didn't really need to acclimate anything I'd just put whatever on the sand bed for a couple of days and then move them where I wanted.
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02/14/2018, 05:50 AM | #5073 |
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Hello all, I have a Redsea 170 mixed reef, anyone got any recommended settings, as I don't think I'm getting the best from my lights
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02/14/2018, 08:24 AM | #5074 | |
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Location: Baldwin,ny
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AI Hydra Settings Thread
Quote:
Thank you for the reply. Yes my lights are 52 non hd mixed with ati 4x54 w t5’s. @Orcus Varuna Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by greenstreet.1; 02/15/2018 at 07:19 AM. |
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02/14/2018, 10:26 AM | #5075 | |
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Quote:
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Current Tank: 90 Gal SCA Cube Mixed Reef (Build Stage) Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2600702 |
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