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Old 08/16/2018, 11:39 PM   #26
mannyo_09
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Originally Posted by saveafish View Post
Turn your UV and V down a bit. Your more than likely burning your new additions as you ad them.


Well, I havenít added any new livestock since I changed to the current schedule I have now.


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Old 08/16/2018, 11:43 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Daddi0 View Post
Red Sea reef Energy A/B add carbohydrates and aminos but not trace elements. Also kinda hard to believe that you have 0ppm phosphates from natural seawater, out here on the west coast natural seawater runs up to .25ppm phosphates. Gotta get them nitrates up to around 5 also.
You could also check the lfs rodi for chlorine
Cheers! Mark


So should I be adding trace elements also?

I think Iíd be best if I just start to mix my own salt water and purchase an rodi system. I live in south Florida and I was doing research on how they treat the water down here and it seems they use small amount of chlorine and chloramine. Would a 4 stage rodi be sufficiently should I get a 5 stage to be safe?


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Old 08/16/2018, 11:50 PM   #28
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I bought the BRS 6 stage with an extra membrane and it works well for me. I would wait to add trace minerals til your reef shows a "need" for them and you can test for them.
I was buying natural saltwater when I started reefing and we got to .45ppm phosphates. I started mixing my own saltwater with Red Sea blue bucket and my reef looks so much better.
Cheers! Mark


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Old 08/17/2018, 12:25 AM   #29
mannyo_09
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Originally Posted by Daddi0 View Post
I bought the BRS 6 stage with an extra membrane and it works well for me. I would wait to add trace minerals til your reef shows a "need" for them and you can test for them.
I was buying natural saltwater when I started reefing and we got to .45ppm phosphates. I started mixing my own saltwater with Red Sea blue bucket and my reef looks so much better.
Cheers! Mark


Honestly I donít think Iíve ever tested the water I get from my LFS. I think the soonest Iíve ever tested it, is maybe a week after doing the water change. and the reason I think I was getting a reading of 0 phosphates was because I was feeding my fish every other day, sometimes every two days and I would do a 20% water change once a month.


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Old 08/17/2018, 01:00 PM   #30
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A 4 phase RO/DI should be fine. That's what I use, but with a Spectrapure RO 99% rejection RO membrane.


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 8 ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Reef Octopus CaRx

Current Tank Info: 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head, Yellow/Purple, Hoevans, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, Purple & Atlantic Blue Tangs, Matted Filefish, 2 Percula Clown, 4 PJ Cardinals, Swallowtail Angel
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Old 08/17/2018, 01:17 PM   #31
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This is off the wall, but possible:

You may have more nitrite, nitrate and ammonia than you think.

Enough to grow softies well, but kill SPS.

During a very hot spell many years ago, I noticed my test kit reading zero when I knew damn well the tank had not had time to cycle.

I had left my test reagents in the hot van, and the heat destroyed them. I had to throw away every reagent and buy new.

You may ask your local shop to test your water, or you could simply check your tests. (Hint: a drop of urine in an ammonia test will show a positive - if not, the reagent is bad.)


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Old 08/17/2018, 05:08 PM   #32
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I think you nitrate and phosphate levels are too low for the given alkalinity level. Either increase P and N or reduce the alkalinity. NSW is also very poor in soluble N and P, but the alkalinity is between ~6.5 - 7 dKH. If you desire to keep low nutrients like NSW, you need to keep alk low.


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Old 08/17/2018, 11:35 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by WVfishguy View Post
This is off the wall, but possible:



You may have more nitrite, nitrate and ammonia than you think.



Enough to grow softies well, but kill SPS.



During a very hot spell many years ago, I noticed my test kit reading zero when I knew damn well the tank had not had time to cycle.



I had left my test reagents in the hot van, and the heat destroyed them. I had to throw away every reagent and buy new.



You may ask your local shop to test your water, or you could simply check your tests. (Hint: a drop of urine in an ammonia test will show a positive - if not, the reagent is bad.)


Thanks for the info, i will test them out. Iím looking to upgrade my ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kits to the Red Sea ones. But they have been kept in the stand since I purchased them


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Old 08/17/2018, 11:37 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Tripod1404 View Post
I think you nitrate and phosphate levels are too low for the given alkalinity level. Either increase P and N or reduce the alkalinity. NSW is also very poor in soluble N and P, but the alkalinity is between ~6.5 - 7 dKH. If you desire to keep low nutrients like NSW, you need to keep alk low.


Iím sure the alkalinity level is what my LFS keeps it at cause thatís where I get my water from. Once I start mixing my own salt water Iíll be able to get a lower alkalinity level as I will go with the Red Sea blue bucket for salt mix since I donít have any heavy demand corals


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Old 08/17/2018, 11:59 PM   #35
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I hate to say this, but:
Trusting your live stock to a pet shop is tantamount to having a drunk pack your parachute.

You really should make your own water. It a very small tank, and it's just not that difficult.


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Old 08/18/2018, 12:07 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by WVfishguy View Post
I hate to say this, but:

Trusting your live stock to a pet shop is tantamount to having a drunk pack your parachute.



You really should make your own water. It a very small tank, and it's just not that difficult.


I originally had a 28g biocube and then got this 45 AIO and figured that for the small amounts of water changes I would be doing it was easier and more practical to just get my water already mixed from them. But now Iím realizing thatís not very smart


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Old 08/18/2018, 09:46 AM   #37
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Since youíre going for a larger tank, google this:
ďRelationship between alk, NO3 and PO4 and how this relates to corals and zooxanthellaĒ
and read the topic.


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Old 08/18/2018, 05:36 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by WVfishguy View Post
I hate to say this, but:
Trusting your live stock to a pet shop is tantamount to having a drunk pack your parachute.
I would imagine there are a number of responsible LFS owners who would disagree with you on this. Many also run tank maintenance businesses and know their stuff, so maybe paint with a smaller brush.

Kevin


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Old 08/18/2018, 06:39 PM   #39
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I would imagine there are a number of responsible LFS owners who would disagree with you on this. Many also run tank maintenance businesses and know their stuff, so maybe paint with a smaller brush.

Kevin
Good point, well taken. I don't think of a "Pet Shop" as the Local Fish Store. The LFS's Ive been to that do maintenance are usually fish only with a few herps, but there are shops I know who do sell pets and do a fine job with maintenance. That includes the LFS owner who took over part of my route, so again, point taken.


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Old 08/18/2018, 09:34 PM   #40
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Good point, well taken. I don't think of a "Pet Shop" as the Local Fish Store. The LFS's Ive been to that do maintenance are usually fish only with a few herps, but there are shops I know who do sell pets and do a fine job with maintenance. That includes the LFS owner who took over part of my route, so again, point taken.


The only LFS Iíve use is called strictly fish. And they only specialize in salt water aquariums. You can look them up, they have a website. And Iíve taken the time to talk with the owners and they have a strict maintenance schedule they follow and are extremely knowledgeable about salt water aquariums.


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Old 08/18/2018, 10:29 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by mannyo_09 View Post
Iím sure the alkalinity level is what my LFS keeps it at cause thatís where I get my water from. Once I start mixing my own salt water Iíll be able to get a lower alkalinity level as I will go with the Red Sea blue bucket for salt mix since I donít have any heavy demand corals


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Although my LFS sells natural seawater, they dont use it in their reefs 'cause it is too expensive.


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