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Old 08/06/2012, 12:47 AM   #251
gb530
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Read the whole thread, you have an awesome tank!!! ... definitely subscribing, keep us updated!


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Old 08/06/2012, 09:33 AM   #252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMagyar View Post
You are both so right!

Truth is it comes down to envy. I looked at Krystof Trycs tank and decided that I could take my corals to one level higher. Plus I experimented with LEDs and T5s on my frag system, and the results with the T5 bulbs were nothing short of spectacular. In particular, I'm hoping my hot pink stylo and my GARF Bonsai will improve under the new lights. I will say that there is no question but that the T5s simply make everything look better right from the start. Personal look is so hard to compare, but all I can say is that I really like the change so far. I'll try to get the tank clean in September and take some better shots under the new lights so we can all compare the "before" and "after".

Thanks again for all the interest!



Joe
enlighten me on the LED vs T-5 experience. I only have 2 250w MH's over my DT and have been planning to add 36 CREE XTE RB's for acctinic supplementation. It would be about $350 to build and never have to replace bulbs again. I planned this instead of doing a 140W VHO acctinic setup. I know the VHO acctinic is in short the best pop for acctinic. BAbout same initial costm but have 2 bulbs to replace every yr. Not a big deal....

How did your corals perform and look wth the LED's compared to T-5's etc....

Also was it a mix or just single type light source. ie, MH only vs LED only vs T-5??

Thanks,


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Old 08/19/2012, 06:00 PM   #253
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Originally Posted by pkane11384 View Post
JPM, what is the next colony you plan on breaking up? How are the ones you took out an fragged doing? Any updated pics?

Planning on a big breakup of the purple humilis. It doesn't get a lot of attention, but it's sort of the foundation of the reef. Nice shape, slow grower, and always deep purple.



Quote:
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enlighten me on the LED vs T-5 experience.

How did your corals perform and look wth the LED's compared to T-5's etc....

Also was it a mix or just single type light source. ie, MH only vs LED only vs T-5??

Thanks,


I spent several thousand dollars on different 24 inch fixtures and borrowed others from friends and am currently working with one wealthy gentleman in Bedford, NY that has a multithousand gallon system and is trying to use LEDs exclusively. I have seen the results from Maxspect, AI, Radion, PacSun, and several cheaper no name fixtures. There is no question that LEDs work and work well for certain applications (see my article in Reef Hobbyist Magazine last quarter for one good example) but I also saw some corals that never made it under LEDs including my O.T. and pink birds nest. In general I find that I simply like the colors under T5/metal halide better than LEDs and in my experience sometimes LEDs actually killed corals. They are all the rage and people have very extreme opinions, but it's simply MY opinion that they don't work as well as a T5/metal halide.

Now having said all that, I think you should go with whatever you like. This is a hobby, and I'm sure you'll enjoy whichever option you choose.





On another note . . .



Took some macro's today. I really think the T5s are making the pinks pop and the Garf Bonsai purple up. My purple rim, blue polyp, green cap is finally getting a purple rim, and I hate to even whisper it but maybe just maybe my O.T. is turning the corner and improving not to mention that everything has super polyp extension. Always so hard to know which factor causes a change in a reef, but I feel that all the flourescent light as well as the different types is making a huge difference. . .





















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Old 08/20/2012, 02:53 AM   #254
adddo
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Stunning tank and i love the aquascape and the depth it makes. Great job


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Old 08/21/2012, 03:15 PM   #255
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Stunning tank and i love the aquascape and the depth it makes. Great job


Thanks!


Got a decent flash shot today. Usually I don't like the look of flash shots since they tend not to show the colors too drab as compared to actinic lighting in real life, but I thought this shot was fair enough to put up.

I also thought about adding a couple miscellaneous ramblings:

1) I believe more and more in biological control. Had redbugs now I don't, and I think it's because of gobies. No proof of gobies eating bugs, but I can't find a single red bug anywhere.

2) Had a gazillion majanos. Bought a file fish and now I have zero, and the file fish is a model citizen today eating all the mysis I can feed him(her?)

3) Had cyano but added a reactor with a bunch of zeolite and made it drip real slow; now no more cyano.

None of that is at all scientific, but these anecdotes plus many others really make me a believer in "biology" as the best answer for a healthy tank.

The other musing is . . . boy does this hobby take up a LOT of time Last 3 days I

changed 150 gallons of water
changed out a CO2 tank and refilled the calcium reactor with media
removed and cleaned 4 Tunzes
cleaned sand bed
cleaned glass everyday sometimes twice in a day
changed out the RO/DI cartridges
trimmed and glued corals
turkey baster blasted inside the tank
and of course fed the fish twice a day


Well that's it for the moment!







can't tell which I like better . . . flash or no flash. It's interesting 'cuz it looks very different on my Mac as compared to my HP . . . color match is so hard.







Last edited by JPMagyar; 08/21/2012 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 08/21/2012, 04:26 PM   #256
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and a different angle . . .





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Old 08/21/2012, 04:30 PM   #257
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I would love to read your daily routines and what not about this tank!


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Old 08/21/2012, 06:02 PM   #258
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Originally Posted by JPMagyar View Post
Thanks!
3) Had cyano but added a reactor with a bunch of zeolite and made it drip real slow; now no more cyano.
Is there any way you can elaborate on this? You're just running a zeovit reactor with the zeolite, and nothing else? No other zeovit additives? I wonder what about the zeolite material that is preventing cyano.


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Old 08/21/2012, 06:54 PM   #259
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I would love to read your daily routines and what not about this tank!
Maintenance:

Daily: clean glass, feed twice (frozen: brine+, mysis, cyclop-eeze, arctic pods, bloodworms, sushi grade fish eggs), check basement, worry about developing algae bloom, top off sump with RO if not right on, check pH monitor for 8.1 and temp for 79, add 100 ml of B-Ionic 2 part.

Bi-Weekly: 150 gallon water change (ESV salt), clean skimmer, clean teeth on overflow, clean anti-siphon hole in return line, pull and inspect Stockman drain, mix next weeks water, siphon barebottom of frag tank.

Monthly: siphon sand bed clean, test water for Ca (Elos), Mg (Salifert), pH (Pinpoint), salinity (D-D refractometer), kH (Salifert). Make adjustments as necessary to hit 420 ppm Ca, 1250 ppm Mg, kH 8, pH 8.1, salinity 35 ppt.

Quartlery: Take out the 2 Tunzes and replace with clean standbys, then leave the dirty ones to soak in vinegar for a couple days, take out 2 Maxi-jets in frag tank and replace with clean ones then soak old ones in vinegar, remove and clean stockman drain, clean pump intake screens, vacuum sump bottom, rinse live rock in sump with old tank water saved in 40 gallon garbi can, sell frags and make some new frags.

6 Months: change RO/DI carbon block and 0.5 micron pre-filter.

9 Months: Change T5s and record date on end of tube and in tank journal

Annually: Change MHs, exchange 2 main pumps for clean pumps and disassemble and clean old pumps for next year using Muriatic Acid, change RO/DI DI cartridge and RO cartridge, 300 gallon water change (usually associated with some major event like plumbing change or re-aquascape or, heaven forbid, a pest treatment or just a major sump cleanout.

When Needed: add sand if bottom shows, run phosphate remover, clean scale off heaters, buy cleanup crew to knock back whatever algae bloom hits Mithrax for valonia, nudibrancs for Briopsys, etc; clean and refill calcium reactor, exchange CO2 bottle, replace RO float shutoff switch, trim corals or even remove whole overgrown colonies (this happens once a year atleast and is always a little sad) change Via-Aqua powerhead on bottom of sump (keeps the surface stirred up).




Quote:
Originally Posted by silentscream View Post
Is there any way you can elaborate on this? You're just running a zeovit reactor with the zeolite, and nothing else? No other zeovit additives? I wonder what about the zeolite material that is preventing cyano.


It's all highly unscientific, but after much reading and looking I decided that the heart of Red Sea NoPox and Zeovit was the concept of feeding bacteria to increase their presence in the tank. Turns out much research has been done on bacteria that eat phosphate and they like to live in tiny areas with no oxygen so I bought a cheap Precision Marine all purpose reactor, filled it with Kent Marine zeolite, attached it to a Maxi-jet and set it to a fast drip. Nothing happened for the first 4 weeks, but after about 4 weeks I noticed a dramatic improvement in the cleanliness of my sand and water. After that I stopped using phosphate remover and carbon altogether. That was about 1 year ago. I turn the reactor upside down every couple months and flush it out with tank water. I don't know if it's actually doing anything because I haven't tested the effluent ever but my tank is happy so for the time I'm happy too

Thanks for askin' , it's always fun to share my thoughts!


Joe


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Old 08/21/2012, 07:31 PM   #260
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Love your tanks!


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Old 08/21/2012, 09:49 PM   #261
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you have a great tank! Sorry for the silly question but what type of coral is hosting your clowns?


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Old 08/21/2012, 10:38 PM   #262
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Thanks for the explanation of the zeolite. Do you carbon dose to try and drive up the bacteria content, or is the bacteria colonizing the zeolite just naturally occuring?

Also, how awesome is the ESV salt? I've been using it for several months now, and love the consistent parameters... not to mention how fast it mixes and the lack of any residue left in the mixing barrels. But I don't change 150 gallons at a time, you've got to be spending a small fortune on salt alone!


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Old 08/22/2012, 09:00 AM   #263
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JP,

Are you running socks in your sump? Also which gobies do you have again in your tank. I will probably add a few to my DT as well as frag tank.

Ohhh, and i prefer the flash shot.(assuming it's the first pic) It seem to show the details of the corals and the transitions/depth of the tank due to the subtle shadows. Plus all the corals retain their colors.

It is subtle tho


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Old 08/22/2012, 10:34 AM   #264
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I love the new lights and the tank looks amazing, it has always been one of my favorite tanks. I have used many bulbs over the years and the 150 watt Radiums are one of my all time favorites. The Sfiligoi fixtures are great and probably the best reflector available in a fixture. I think the tank will respond very well to the new MH/T5 combination.

I have been battling cyano after changing from the 150 watt Radiums to Ushio 10K's, I am living with it because after rebooting the tank from a move I needed the fast growth. I may try the Zeolites and see if it helps or I will be putting the Radiums back in. Thanks for the tip and keep up the awesome work.


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Old 08/22/2012, 11:52 AM   #265
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beautiful tank i hope someday i can have a tank that nice, great job


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Old 08/24/2012, 08:09 PM   #266
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you have a great tank! Sorry for the silly question but what type of coral is hosting your clowns?
In Vegas listening to kids talk about dancing in vomit and other wild behavior that I dare not mention, but anyways sorry for the slow response everyone. I'll be home Sunday.

The.coral hosting the clowns is actually a Magnificent Anemone also known as a Heteractis or Ritteri. It's definitely my pride and joy!

Joe


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Old 08/26/2012, 10:19 AM   #267
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Two interesting developments today . . .

1) Looks like the last split was never complete and the anemone was trying to tear the last piece linking itself to a new clone. I've never interfered before, but this time I used a scalpel to snip the last piece holding them together. We'll see

2) I also noticed this morning that the largest females in the school of Chromis have developed yellow coloring on their dorsal and anal fins. Have to see if this means they're a different chromis than I thought I had.









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Old 08/26/2012, 10:50 AM   #268
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How long has your anemone been going through this split?
My brown based H.magnifica anemone started to split in late December, last year.
The split finally finished in early February....
This is the first time this anemone has ever split for me, and I've had it since March of 2006.
How long do the splits normally last?
How frequently does your anemone split?

Nick


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Old 08/26/2012, 11:28 AM   #269
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How long has your anemone been going through this split?
My brown based H.magnifica anemone started to split in late December, last year.
The split finally finished in early February....
This is the first time this anemone has ever split for me, and I've had it since March of 2006.
How long do the splits normally last?
How frequently does your anemone split?

Nick
Wow Nick! Great to hear about another Magnifica success story. My anemone seems to split about every 2 to 3 years and in the past the splits took about 3 weeks, but this split took several months and wasn't complete until I made the "snip" today. During earlier spits the anemone has had more room to pull itself apart, but in it's present location the crowding of coral around it is more complete so I wonder if space is an issue in how fast they can pull themselves apart.

Did your 'nem have lots of room to spread out? Do you have any pictures?

Thanks for sharing.

Also, I just learned that the coloring on the chromis is a change they undergo signifying their readiness to breed. Pretty cool stuff!



Joe


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Old 09/06/2012, 03:41 PM   #270
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Just thought I'd put some recent observations on the web for anyone interested.

As has been mentioned earlier, I've had a Magnificent Anemone since January of 2002, and it now has turned into 7 clones. Around May of this year it started splitting again, but the split never completed fully and left a small 1 inch wide piece of tissue connecting the two clones. Each clone formed a new mouth and 2 weeks ago they tried to pull apart again. I have never before tried to interfere with the anemone's behaviour, but this time I couldn't resist such a clear chance to try what I hoped would be minor surgery. I used a modeller exacto-blade cleaned with alcohol and severed the remaining tissue link. Then I carefully extracted the smaller clone and gave it to Jason and extracted the larger clone and placed it higher on the rock work as it had moved lower on the reef under a shelf of rock where I feared it would not get enough light. It appeared to me that the clones did not have enough room to pull themselves apart as they were restricted by other colonies surrounding them. In any case here are the interesting observations. I am not a biologist so I really have very little understanding of the nervous system of the creatures, in that way I admit I was quite surprised at the response.


1) I had to slice the tissue several times to create the division. Each time I made an incision the smaller clone would violently contract on itself and slowly re-expand. Even after the incision was complete this pulsing behaviour continued for another half hour or so.

2) After I removed the two clones and replaced the one, it balled itself up tightly and became neutrally bouyant. If I had not wedged it into a bowl like area on the rock work, it would easily have blown around the reef like a tumble weed.

3) During the time that it was balled up the clown fish it had been hosting kept pulling at a few tentactles that were extended and pulling them towards an area of open and available rock. After about an hour the anemone unballed it's pedicle and attached it to the rock in the area where the clowns had been tugging.

4) Over the next week the anemone moved very slowly back to a position from which it could touch the location from which I had pulled it and then it climbed back up to it's perch where it had been before the split. The action seemed as if it was searching for the other clone in the previous vicinity.



None of this is in any way scientific, but just thought it might be interesting to some and of course if there are any biologists out there with thoughts on this whole process or perhaps links to research that has been done on these fascinating creatures, I'd love to hear from you!



Joe








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Old 09/06/2012, 03:42 PM   #271
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Ooops . . . double post. My bad


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Old 09/06/2012, 03:48 PM   #272
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Interesting info and great pics, as always. Thanks. I gotta make some time to see this tank in person!


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Old 09/18/2012, 05:32 PM   #273
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Just a quick update to say that everything is going "swimmingly" well with the new lights

I know . . . how droll to laugh at one's own jokes.










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Old 09/18/2012, 05:43 PM   #274
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Thats probably the nicest anemone I've ever seen.


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Old 09/18/2012, 07:13 PM   #275
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I was looking for this thread last light but forgot who started it. The pictures of this person's tank are like a 1,000,000 words, mostly about care in placement of corals they know well. I sit and stare at different pictures of this tank and ask why there. Most of the time I think I have a sensible answer. Then I look at the anemone, the one that should be moving but it's not. It's like I am being teased, so many people say no no no, especially this species. Rebellion, is in order.


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