Push fits

[NewToReefHobbby]

Hello,
I recently bought the pipe works and cut them to size for the over flow to sump.
The pipe works that I bought are the push fits. Is using push fits ideal for the tanks or do I need to go for the solvent/weld pipe fittings?

I haven't done a water test yet as the take is 5 foot x 2x 1.5 so wanted your experienced reefers take on this before I take a chance of filling it in.

thank you in advance.

[homer1475]

Are the push fittings metal of any kind? If so, no.

Are these on your return lines or drain lines? Neither one has a ton of pressure and the push fittings should work just fine, but I would prefer to glue them in place.

[NewToReefHobbby]

Originally Posted by homer1475

Are the push fittings metal of any kind? If so, no.

Are these on your return lines or drain lines? Neither one has a ton of pressure and the push fittings should work just fine, but I would prefer to glue them in place.

Thank you for your quick reply.

The push fits are non metalic.

Bulks and the pipes are all push fits and I have made 2 overflows joining them to a "T" push fits at a mid level and then I am planning to attach a "tap" (still searching) to control the flow and down to the sump.

The return will be solvent due to the size of the pipe - which i think is a much safer

[homer1475]

Drain lines should be fine then. There is no pressure on them at all. You may have to buy a traditional gate valve that needs to be glued in place. I don't believe I've ever seen a gate valve in a push fit connection.

FWIW, you do want a gate valve and not a ball valve as the ball valve doesn't allow for the very fine tuning you need to do on the full siphon line.

[NewToReefHobbby]

Originally Posted by NewToReefHobbby

Thank you for your quick reply.

The push fits are non metalic.

Bulks and the pipes are all push fits and I have made 2 overflows joining them to a "T" push fits at a mid level and then I am planning to attach a "tap" (still searching) to control the flow and down to the sump.

The return will be solvent due to the size of the pipe - which i think is a much safer

this is the push fit -

http://www.diy.com/departments/flopl...e/35063_BQ.prd

- http://kingfisher.scene7.com/is/image/Kingfisher/productTemplate?$baseImage=Kingfisher/5055149903632_01c&$PROMO_450_450$

- blob:null/ff46ee54-9483-41c2-a28c-d04a7caacdf9

... and all the push fits that you see compatible fittings

[homer1475]

Never seen those type of push fit connections. I was thinking like a sharkbite or john guest type of fitting. I cannot see why they would not work. My only concern would be them slipping apart as it doesn't seem to be any way they are held in place.

[NewToReefHobbby]

Originally Posted by homer1475

Never seen those type of push fit connections. I was thinking like a sharkbite or john guest type of fitting. I cannot see why they would not work. My only concern would be them slipping apart as it doesn't seem to be any way they are held in place.

aah.. sounds like I bought a total incorrect push fits. I will get the correct one's - sharkbite, don't mind binning the pipe works but I can get the t's and the bends replaced and that would make a bit easy to buy a gate valve or something similar that fits well...

thank you very much for your help. I shall keep you posted.

[homer1475]

No no what I meant is when you said push fit I was thinking like a sharkbite fitting. Those are a no no as they are made of copper.

The ones you are wanting to use are all plastic and should be fine.

[NewToReefHobbby]

Originally Posted by homer1475

No no what I meant is when you said push fit I was thinking like a sharkbite fitting. Those are a no no as they are made of copper.

The ones you are wanting to use are all plastic and should be fine.

phew.. i was going to rip them all this evening and get another ones
No it is just a matter for me to do a water test..

I will keep you posted hopefully this weekend subject to little one permits

[NewToReefHobbby]

Originally Posted by homer1475

No no what I meant is when you said push fit I was thinking like a sharkbite fitting. Those are a no no as they are made of copper.

The ones you are wanting to use are all plastic and should be fine.

A quick question. for the return pump, is it safe to use solvent that is available in the h/w shops or is there a special solvent i would need to use that is fish safe?

[slief]

Originally Posted by NewToReefHobbby

A quick question. for the return pump, is it safe to use solvent that is available in the h/w shops or is there a special solvent i would need to use that is fish safe?

Use regular PVC cement that you find in the plumbing section of the hardware or plumbing supply place. I prefer the clear stuff since it's much cleaner looking.

[NewToReefHobbby]

Originally Posted by slief

Use regular PVC cement that you find in the plumbing section of the hardware or plumbing supply place. I prefer the clear stuff since it's much cleaner looking.

Will do that.

Here are the fittings connected to the tank. The two holes that you see on the top left corner - 1x is for the inlet, 1x is for the spare over flow to the sump just in case if something messes up.

[Lsufan]

If u are using a durso it's not as important because they don't clog as easily as a syphon but I wouldn't want to combine the regular drain & the emergency drain. It's better to have them both go to the sump independently. If something clogs in your T or in one of those 90's both drains with be clogged & u would have a flood.

[NewToReefHobbby]

Originally Posted by Lsufan

If u are using a durso it's not as important because they don't clog as easily as a syphon but I wouldn't want to combine the regular drain & the emergency drain. It's better to have them both go to the sump independently. If something clogs in your T or in one of those 90's both drains with be clogged & u would have a flood.

I thought about that before, you never know when something goes wrong. I will drop them independently. Thank you for your advice

[jewlz]

Heads up about those push fits, they look like they wont resist very much force pulling the joints apart. that wouldn't normally be a problem with in-wall/floor plumbing because the pipes would be supported through holes and clamped to the studs/joists. Hanging off the back of your tank, there's potentially a lot of weight pulling the pipes down, with no support, it *could* pull those unglued connections apart.

[NewToReefHobbby]

Originally Posted by jewlz

Heads up about those push fits, they look like they wont resist very much force pulling the joints apart. that wouldn't normally be a problem with in-wall/floor plumbing because the pipes would be supported through holes and clamped to the studs/joists. Hanging off the back of your tank, there's potentially a lot of weight pulling the pipes down, with no support, it *could* pull those unglued connections apart.

Hence I am bit reluctant to use them still and too scared to do the test run as I might see flood next morning
So is it best I Silicome the joints outside or will it still put some strain in them and chances of slipping away?

What do you suggest as alternative? Flexible pipe?

[ryeguyy84]

I'd just run normal PVC plumbing and glue them. it would always be in the back of my mind that my plumbing could fall apart. the standard PVC solvent in the hardware store is fine.

i used this one:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/8-oz-PVC-...2483/100151579

Add unions for places you might want to remove later.

[Lsufan]

U really need to support the plumbing anyways, even if u decide to redo it with glued fittings it needs to be supported. I think u will be fine using the fittings u have but if u want piece of mind u can redo it with glued fittings. Eighther way u need to support the plumbing so the wieght isn't on the bulkheads

[NewToReefHobbby]

Originally Posted by Lsufan

U really need to support the plumbing anyways, even if u decide to redo it with glued fittings it needs to be supported. I think u will be fine using the fittings u have but if u want piece of mind u can redo it with glued fittings. Eighther way u need to support the plumbing so the wieght isn't on the bulkheads

Thanks. I finally got the proper fittings after visiting the LFS several times and found the right fittings, binned all the push fits that I had - some will be returned (t and bends) to the local supplier

It will be connected tonight and soon I will post the pictures

Thanks very much

[NewToReefHobbby]

Originally Posted by Lsufan

U really need to support the plumbing anyways, even if u decide to redo it with glued fittings it needs to be supported. I think u will be fine using the fittings u have but if u want piece of mind u can redo it with glued fittings. Eighther way u need to support the plumbing so the wieght isn't on the bulkheads

Here is the updated version with the new fittings. I will be cutting the hose down attachment to fit flexible hose pipe. This is purely to remove the hose fittings should I need to move the tank without dismantling every joint without breaking it down.
I haven't glued it yet. will do the complete gluing part once the baffles are ready in the sump

[NewToReefHobbby]

Originally Posted by NewToReefHobbby

Here is the updated version with the new fittings. I will be cutting the hose down attachment to fit flexible hose pipe. This is purely to remove the hose fittings should I need to move the tank without dismantling every joint without breaking it down.
I haven't glued it yet. will do the complete gluing part once the baffles are ready in the sump

[NewToReefHobbby]

here is my final build including sump.

there are 4 holes at the back of the tank.

2 main overflow joining them together into the SUMP
1 hole on the left will be the inlet/return attached to the pump.
1 hole on the extreme left is an additional over flow,just in case if something goes wrong it shouldn't overflow the tank, instead it will drop into the sump.

In the other picture you can see the return has a pipe attached to it which has 3 outlets, I haven't tested the pressure yet, but if I see the pressure too high on one and too low on the extreme end I will put a cap at the end or I will join them and create a loop around. What do you think?

[der_wille_zur_macht]

So the black plumbing is your overflow system?

Joining the two overflows together, and then reducing down through the barb to the flexible hose, is going to severely reduce your overflow's capacity. Also, I see you have a valve on the overflow line. The return pump will set the flow rate through the system, the only reason to have a valve on an overflow is if you're running a full siphon as in a Herbie or Beananimal drain, this doesn't look like either to me.

Regardless of whether the drains are siphon or open channel, I would suggest running separate lines from each to the sump. Also, try to route your drains so there are no horizontal sections, as that can make it very difficult for the drain to purge all the air when it starts. Instead of long sections that are horizontal and vertical, try putting in some 45's or using flex pvc in order to get where you need them to be in the sump.

[NewToReefHobbby]

Originally Posted by der_wille_zur_macht

So the black plumbing is your overflow system?

Joining the two overflows together, and then reducing down through the barb to the flexible hose, is going to severely reduce your overflow's capacity. Also, I see you have a valve on the overflow line. The return pump will set the flow rate through the system, the only reason to have a valve on an overflow is if you're running a full siphon as in a Herbie or Beananimal drain, this doesn't look like either to me.

Regardless of whether the drains are siphon or open channel, I would suggest running separate lines from each to the sump. Also, try to route your drains so there are no horizontal sections, as that can make it very difficult for the drain to purge all the air when it starts. Instead of long sections that are horizontal and vertical, try putting in some 45's or using flex pvc in order to get where you need them to be in the sump.

mmmm... Thank you for your feedback. I will start stripping and cutting the pipes down and set them up separately and rebuild it

The pump has a flow control built in.