Bubble King Skimmer Club

[bayoupr]

The new RD3 230's can be disconnected from the controller.

They need to hurry up and make these for all their DC pumps. I feel for the people that bought a Mini with the BD3 Mini DC. Can you imagine having to haul a skimmer, pump and controller together for a pump cleaning.

[Jmerriott]

Hi slief. Can you help me figure out the proper settings on my double cone 200 with the RD3? I got it for my well stocked 190 3 weeks ago and I don't think I'm getting the best performance. I've used it at sump depth of 9.7, 8 and 7 inches and power settings in the low 30's to full blast. I can't seem to get anything other than light tea colored skim and a ton of big foam bubbles in the cup. Is there an ideal water depth and power settings for these? Thanks

[slief]

Originally Posted by Jmerriott

Hi slief. Can you help me figure out the proper settings on my double cone 200 with the RD3? I got it for my well stocked 190 3 weeks ago and I don't think I'm getting the best performance. I've used it at sump depth of 9.7, 8 and 7 inches and power settings in the low 30's to full blast. I can't seem to get anything other than light tea colored skim and a ton of big foam bubbles in the cup. Is there an ideal water depth and power settings for these? Thanks

Ideal would typically be about 7.75-8.5" deep. I'd probably run the pump betweem 30 and 38 watts. My guess is that your tank doesn't have as much in the way of dissolved solids as you may think which is why you are getting lighter skim. You are also running it on the wet side which will cause the lighter skim. Then again, the foam in your picture above looks pretty darn good to me.

I would suggest trying the settings you were using when you took the picture and either open the wedge pipe up a bit or lower the sump level 1/4" and see what that does. That should darken the skim up a bit. A bit more about your system might also shed some light. Are you running filter socks and any other mechanical filtration? You say you have a well stocked 190. I assume the display is 190 gallons? What do you have in your tank as far as stock?

Looking at your photo, that actually looks like it's working pretty darn well as far as the foam it's making.

[Jmerriott]

Tank is a 190 and the sump has about 35 gallons of water in it. I run bio pellets and filter socks. About 15 fish including 3 tangs and a blue throat trigger, a gig and med coral stock. I feed very heavy but maintain low no3 and no4. Salt is steady at 1.025. Does that change your advise at all or maybe I'm just tweaking to much and my current setup is fine?

[slief]

Originally Posted by Jmerriott

Tank is a 190 and the sump has about 35 gallons of water in it. I run bio pellets and filter socks. About 15 fish including 3 tangs and a blue throat trigger, a gig and med coral stock. I feed very heavy but maintain low no3 and no4. Salt is steady at 1.025. Does that change your advise at all or maybe I'm just tweaking to much and my current setup is fine?

Yea, you don't have much load at all... Between the filter socks, the light stock load, bio pellets etc, there isn't much for that skimmer to remove. You can dry it out a bit my raising it up some or lowering the sump level but I like the foam you are getting. You just don't have much in the way of DOC's for the skimmer to remove at this point.

[Raver]

I am starting a 120g tank which will be have a heavy load, Is the bk 150 enough to handle this?? It was recommended several times for up to 150g by Jeremy.

[slief]

Originally Posted by Raver

I am starting a 120g tank which will be have a heavy load, Is the bk 150 enough to handle this?? It was recommended several times for up to 150g by Jeremy.

No. The Double Cone 150 is rated to about 90 gallons and would be pushing it with a heavy load on a 120 gallon display IMO. I'd lean towards the Double Cone 180 unless your display size is a 90 gallon and the overall volume is 120g. The Double Cone 180 currently includes the RD3 pump too which makes it far superior as you have much greater control. If you stock load will be light, it would be a different story. While these skimmers are really efficient, the 180 should be fine for your size tank and load plus you gain the upside of having higher o2 levels and gas exchange from the larger skimmer which would be of benefit over a smaller one. This assuming of course that your display is 120 gallons and that you will in fact have a heavy load. If you have a really light load on a 120 display than you could get away with the smaller Cone 150.

[Adamc1303]

Originally Posted by slief

I would start by lowering the sump level or raising the skimmer at least 1/2". If it were me, I would lower it to 6.5" which is about the optimum sump level for that skimmer. The range of depth is based on a number of factors including salinity, bio load etc. The lower the salinity, the less foam fractioning that will occur which would requre a high sump level. Under normal reef range salinities, the max depth of 20 cm is likely going to be too deep for the skimmer to perform properly.

You also need to let the skimmer break in. That will take a week or so for it to really settle down. During that time, microbubbles can be expected. Bottom line.. Lower the level in the sump and give it a week or so to break in.

I got a skimmer stand but there is water coming out through the airline tubing hole. See the picture. Also because the water is getting in the airline tubing and causing the pump to make the water bounce up and down in the skimmer.

[slief]

Originally Posted by Adamc1303

I got a skimmer stand but there is water coming out through the airline tubing hole. See the picture. Also because the water is getting in the airline tubing and causing the pump to make the water bounce up and down in the skimmer.

Originally Posted by Adamc1303

I got a skimmer stand but there is water coming out through the airline tubing hole. See the picture. Also because the water is getting in the airline tubing and causing the pump to make the water bounce up and down in the skimmer.

That airline tubing hole you are referring to is on the wedge pipe. The wedge pipe controls the rate at which water exits the skimmer and sets the water level inside the skimmer. The wedge pipe is typically flooded to the height of the water level inside the skimmer. A little bit of water exiting that hole is not an issue and is normal. Water should not be getting into the venturi air line. That line is sealed and routes from the skimmers air intake and goes to the silencer at the top of the wedge pipe. If you are experiencing surging, your skimmer is likely new and not broken in or you don't have it adjusted properly.

If you are sure water is getting into the tube, I would inspect the rubber tubing for a hole but I doubt that water is getting in to the airline tube.

[Adamc1303]

Water is getting in the airline tubing I see it coming into the pump.

[bayoupr]

The wedge pipe is typically flooded to the height of the water level inside the skimmer. A little bit of water exiting that hole is not an issue and is normal.

With that amount of water leaking through the air line hole in the wedge pipe (appears to be a good stream and not a little bit), this will make the skimmer hard to keep dialed in. Looks like the air hose is being kinked up causing the water to stream out. Not sure about the issue of water in the hose, unless somehow the hose is not hooked up to the bottom of the air silencer and dropped down. I would pull the air silencer off and make sure the hose is connected to it.

[slief]

Originally Posted by Adamc1303

Water is getting in the airline tubing I see it coming into the pump.

Water should not be in the airline tubing. If it is, the hose is either kinked, not connected properly to the silencer, a possible leak in the hose or you don't have the volute set properly. What model skimmer is this? Did you buy it new? It sure looks new. How many turns out on the volute are you? How deep is your sump level?

Originally Posted by bayoupr

With that amount of water leaking through the air line hole in the wedge pipe (appears to be a good stream and not a little bit), this will make the skimmer hard to keep dialed in. Looks like the air hose is being kinked up causing the water to stream out. Not sure about the issue of water in the hose, unless somehow the hose is not hooked up to the bottom of the air silencer and dropped down. I would pull the air silencer off and make sure the hose is connected to it.

I agree. Looking at the photo, it does look like the hose is kinked. It could be that it's not connected to the silencer as you pointed out. I too would suggest removing the silencer and checking to see if the hose is connected to the bottom of it. While I was at it, I would remove the hose completely and double check it for any holes and then put it back in. I can't be certain but it appears as though that wedge pipe is completely closed instead of being open. I think the hole for the venturi line should be on the opposite side if the wedge pipe is open. That could have something to do with the surging and why water is coming out of that hole. With the wedge open all the way, I am pretty certain that the venturi hole should be oriented closer to the pump so the line has a straight path to the pump. If that is the case, I would open the wedge pipe all the way removing the wedge pipe completely first to verify it's orientation. I would then raise the sump level or lower the skimmer enough to get the foam level inside the skimmer to the point that it's producing skimmate. I like my sump level set such that my skimmer produces dry foam with the wedge pipe completely open and wetter foam with it slightly closed. I never set a skimmer up so that the wedge pipe needs to be closed all the way to get it to produce.

[Adamc1303]

Its the double cone 150 I purchased it new. I opened the volute up allot more and it solved the water surging issue. I have allot of bubbles coming from the wedge pipe now but i'll give it a break in period. With my old SM 250 I had the volute open 1.5 times I now use a new one with a RD speedy pump but these small skimmers don't come with that option. Thanks for the help i'll let you know how goes in a few days.

Adam

[slief]

Originally Posted by Adamc1303

Its the double cone 150 I purchased it new. I opened the volute up allot more and it solved the water surging issue. I have allot of bubbles coming from the wedge pipe now but i'll give it a break in period. With my old SM 250 I had the volute open 1.5 times I now use a new one with a RD speedy pump but these small skimmers don't come with that option. Thanks for the help i'll let you know how goes in a few days.

Adam

Great to hear! How many turns out are you on the volute now? Like you I also have the SM250 with the RD3. The RD3 makes tuning the skimmer a dream. I had an Alpha 300 before it with two Red Dragon 1500's with the adjustable volute and having two pumps to dial in from a volute is double the pain.. Not that the adjustable volute is much trouble once you get a feel for it but two makes it infinitely more adjustable. I much prefer the RD3. How many watts are you running your RD3 SM250 at and what sump depth? I'm at 38 watts and 8" depth. I was running at 9" but decided to lower my sump level for reasons having nothing to do with my skimmer.

[clorox]

Scott, do you know if any of RE media reactors will work with Carbon and GFO?

Alex

[slief]

Originally Posted by clorox

Scott, do you know if any of RE media reactors will work with Carbon and GFO?

Alex

Pretty much any of them. You just need to make sure to get the foam inserts with them. Also keep in mind that most of the RE reactors are made to be placed inside the sump. They only have a pipe sticking on the inlet side that you would connect your vinyl hose to. The outlet side is an opening so that water can gravity feed out. They have some larger reactors that have a pipe on both the inlet and outlet side to connect hoses. Those would be more suitable for external use.

[clorox]

Originally Posted by slief

Pretty much any of them. You just need to make sure to get the foam inserts with them. Also keep in mind that most of the RE reactors are made to be placed inside the sump. They only have a pipe sticking on the inlet side that you would connect your vinyl hose to. The outlet side is an opening so that water can gravity feed out. They have some larger reactors that have a pipe on both the inlet and outlet side to connect hoses. Those would be more suitable for external use.

Thanks for the quick reply!

Have you or anyone else used them? I am just curious if anyone had any experience using them, like how easy it is to change media and reload.

[slief]

Originally Posted by clorox

Thanks for the quick reply!

Have you or anyone else used them? I am just curious if anyone had any experience using them, like how easy it is to change media and reload.

I haven't personally used them. I am using BRS Jumbo reactors because I needed something external that could be hung from the framing below my tank. I do have a local friend that has a few of the RE reactor and while he is planning on installing them, as of yet, he hasn't. His tank was just setup so he's now working on the finer details of the setup.

[Adamc1303]

Originally Posted by slief

Great to hear! How many turns out are you on the volute now? Like you I also have the SM250 with the RD3. The RD3 makes tuning the skimmer a dream. I had an Alpha 300 before it with two Red Dragon 1500's with the adjustable volute and having two pumps to dial in from a volute is double the pain.. Not that the adjustable volute is much trouble once you get a feel for it but two makes it infinitely more adjustable. I much prefer the RD3. How many watts are you running your RD3 SM250 at and what sump depth? I'm at 38 watts and 8" depth. I was running at 9" but decided to lower my sump level for reasons having nothing to do with my skimmer.

On the SM 250 I'm at 8" 39 watts, works awesome! I am getting frustrated with this skimmer though. Check out these videos. I have the water at the 6.7" optimal height and the water just keeps bouncing. I took the airline out and inspected and it's fine. I also have it running without the silencer in one of the videos and the sound is almost like the pump is pulsing. The videos are in the dropbox link. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks!


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fo35klat7...mhKNlxgZa?dl=0

[robi0543]

HI
I have bubble king mini 180 gen1 pump just stop working on it. Did anybody try to upgrade pump I mean use my existing skimmer body and get gen3 pump for it
Thanks
Robbie

[slief]

Originally Posted by Adamc1303

On the SM 250 I'm at 8" 39 watts, works awesome! I am getting frustrated with this skimmer though. Check out these videos. I have the water at the 6.7" optimal height and the water just keeps bouncing. I took the airline out and inspected and it's fine. I also have it running without the silencer in one of the videos and the sound is almost like the pump is pulsing. The videos are in the dropbox link. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks!


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fo35klat7...mhKNlxgZa?dl=0

I have this exact same skimmer. Water is going to pour out of that hole in the wedge pipe if you don't have the airline tube in there. That is 100% normal and to be expected. from the looks of it, you have the wedge pipe partially closed. Remove the wedge pipe completely and take a look at the cut end of the pipe. Note where the angle cut is and reinsert the wege pipe so that the cut is facing the opening/exit side of the T where the water goes into the sump. That is your full open position. When you insert that wedge pipe, make sure you have it all the way in. Put the airline tube back in and connect it back to the silencer.

Let the skimmer settle in for several hours. Once it settles in, note the water level in the skimmer. If the foam isn't up the the neck of the skimmer, I would raise your water level in the sump by 1/4" at a time until you get the foam up into the neck. The idea is to use the sump level to get the foam level/top of the water column where it becomes foam/bubbles and then use the wedge pipe to fine tune things. FWIW, I have my skimmer in about 8" of water. If your tank is really new and lightly stocked, you will want your sump level to be about 9" deep. My guess is that you will also want to be closer to 37 watts on the RD3.

[slief]

Originally Posted by robi0543

HI
I have bubble king mini 180 gen1 pump just stop working on it. Did anybody try to upgrade pump I mean use my existing skimmer body and get gen3 pump for it
Thanks
Robbie

There will be new RD3 pumps released late this summer for the Mini 180's. Have you tried taking the pump apart and cleaning the impeller and the body in vinegar? Refer to the instruction manual if you have any questions on the disassembly of that pump.

[robi0543]

Yeah I have cleaned and it definitely dead so need new one. I'm wondering is it straight swap or anything else need to changed

[slief]

Originally Posted by robi0543

Yeah I have cleaned and it definitely dead so need new one. I'm wondering is it straight swap or anything else need to changed

When the RD3 upgrade pump for that skimmer is released, it will be a straight swap.

[clorox]

I am plumbing an RD3 Speedy 80w as my return on my new 120g, should I leave the stock 1" union outlet or should I replace that with a 1 1/2" union so I can use larger diameter piping? What's the conventional wisdom when plumbing an RD3? Any examples are greatly appreciated.