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02/17/2010, 11:55 PM | #26 |
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Location: WI NY
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Underwaterparadise: Thank you for joining and adding info. I agree that acans like more light than chalices. Do you have any experience with the acans striping or have any opinions on that? I believe I have heard people say that the rainbow colors only stay with acans that are under lower lighting. Did the greens stay with your rainbows under that high light?
Do you think that acans should be treated individually or do you think general classification is applicable here? I don't have enough experience to comment on this yet. Also, we have established that chalices light requirements need to be dealt with on an individual basis... Would you say that chalices can generally be classified by their respective id's, Echino vx oxy, etc?
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soooooo sweet once it hits your lips Current Tank Info: Multi-Gradient AGA Raceways - 130g, 260lbs LR, AquaC EV-180, ATS, GEO, Quiet Ones plus 6 other tanks |
03/01/2010, 03:32 AM | #27 |
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reefgems i have the same meter if i get my wc done before the lights go off i iwll try to get some readings also i went by a friends tank and took a bunch of readings i will shot him a pm and see if he will chime in
i love what you are trying to get done here dont give up |
03/01/2010, 03:49 AM | #28 |
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Location: texas
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reefgems your a wiseman for starting this
i have an apogoee as well i will try to get you acans favias reading monday keep this thread going |
03/01/2010, 03:50 PM | #29 |
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
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For almost 3 months I've been running my only 2 chalice frags in ~300 umol (also from quantum meter). Slow growth, good color, no complaints.
I'm 10 days into a 2 week experiment where I've screened over the chalice area cutting the flux down to 140. For first week I didn't see anything noticeable but I'm away on a trip now so when I get back I might be able to perceive differences better? We'll see about chiming back in on this topic later in the week. |
03/05/2010, 01:57 PM | #30 |
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OK so after 2 weeks I don't see any change in one of the frags. The other, a very small frag, if anything looks a little worse. Not worse as in bad, just a little thinner color on the edges. I pulled the screen off them last night and will see what happens over the next two weeks.
Not sure what to make of it yet, still need to figure out if the obsevation is repeatable or not. Just my $0.02 |
03/05/2010, 02:30 PM | #31 | |
Fish heads unite!
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Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Many of my chalices, especially pink/red type watermelons, need direct bright light at least half way up the tank to keep growing and keep the brilliant color. My ME, on the other hand, turns orange under direct light, so I keep it partially in a cave.
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Peter SDMAS member Marine tanks since 1989. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º> ·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·.. ><((((º> Current Tank Info: 240g butterfly and angel FOWLR. 15g QT. |
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03/30/2010, 08:06 PM | #33 | |
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Quote:
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Who needs fish in a Fish tank when you have corals! Current Tank Info: Taking a Vacation |
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03/30/2010, 09:01 PM | #34 | |
Moved On
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Quote:
Thank you very much! I hope more people will join my thread. Please take those measurements for us if you've got the time. Also, if you have measurements for specific lineaged pieces please say which piece for which measurement... we need to start treating corals individually because they are individuals. Kris |
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04/01/2010, 12:34 AM | #35 |
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I am going to be following this thread! I received an amazing rainbow acan. It's looking REALLY healthy, but lost it's Vivid colors. Keep up the good work!
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04/01/2010, 08:00 AM | #36 |
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Par
I work with these quantum sensors everyday. Natural sunlight can reach 800 about midday. These sensors are designed for land plants mostly. I have never heard of anyone submerging the sensor and am not sure of the effect of the refraction from the water. but i was getting a par just now of 130 from a regular very old T12 bulb.Fluorescent bulbs scatter the light a lot more than metal halides. A more direct light source such as metal halides will give a higher PAR output. Your light output should be enough for chalices and acans from my experience though.
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04/22/2010, 09:55 AM | #37 |
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bump
CJ |
04/22/2010, 10:33 AM | #38 |
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I'll have to borrow that PAR meter again. My acans are literally in complete shade, at the base of a pillar of rock and coral, looking more and more stunning every day (very rainbow). The little amount of white striping one colony has even faded
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Peter SDMAS member Marine tanks since 1989. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º> ·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·.. ><((((º> Current Tank Info: 240g butterfly and angel FOWLR. 15g QT. |
04/24/2010, 07:18 AM | #39 |
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Couple pics:
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Peter SDMAS member Marine tanks since 1989. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º> ·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·.. ><((((º> Current Tank Info: 240g butterfly and angel FOWLR. 15g QT. |
04/24/2010, 09:54 AM | #40 |
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i just moved to a 24x24 tank but im still using my old 4x24w t5ho fixture so only the sps are getting direct light. i put all my acans out of direct light and some even shaded trying to see what will happen
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Ryan |
12/18/2011, 12:25 PM | #41 |
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Bump
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-Cato I swear it's an illness... Current Tank Info: On Hiatus |
11/01/2014, 05:51 PM | #42 |
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bump
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11/02/2014, 06:37 AM | #43 |
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Water depth shouldn't really matter, what does matter is the Par number. Seems like for tanks of different depths, you just have to adjust the light going into the tanks, to hit the target number at Chalice & Acan level. What should that number be for Chalice & Acans, thats the good stuff.
Last edited by strout; 11/02/2014 at 07:16 AM. |
03/24/2017, 09:49 AM | #44 |
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Anyone still following this
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12/18/2017, 11:38 AM | #45 |
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I'm converting my SPS tank to LPS and this was fantastic info! Before I was trying to target closer to 600 PAR for light loving millis. My power bill will be so happy.
Thank you, Whiskey
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This video shows 15 months of coral growth in my tank in a 30 second timelapse: https://youtu.be/bF6C57aTDEo |
12/27/2017, 09:27 PM | #46 |
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Interesting read
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