check valve for reefer 170

[BioRee]

Does anyone use a check valve on the return line for their reefer 170? I want to add a check valve because I hate the back siphon every time I do water chance. Does anyone know which size check valve to use for the stock plumbing? 5/8" or 3/4"?

[Vinny Kreyling]

Forget the Check Valve, you will get comfortable & then it will fail. NOT IF but WHEN.
You can drill a 1/8" hole just below the surface (facing downward) in the return line, that will break siphon sooner.

[rishma]

My water level is at the bottom of the return nozzle so I get very little siphon. Are you running a big return pump so your water level is high?

[smatter]

You could use a check valve to prevent the back siphon but the sump must still be designed as if it didn't have a check valve. What do you hate about it? Too close to flooding? Raise your nozzle. I do my WCs right from the sump so I like it to fill up, with a couple of inches to spare of course.

[solitude127]

I'm using an Eheim compact 2000 on my Reefer 170 and the sump can hand any back siphon using the stock return nozzle. As far as sizing, the reefer uses metric so it's bigger than 5/8" but not quite 3/4"

[billdogg]

Originally Posted by Vinny Kreyling

Forget the Check Valve, you will get comfortable & then it will fail. NOT IF but WHEN.
You can drill a 1/8" hole just below the surface (facing downward) in the return line, that will break siphon sooner.

This, x 1000

It will fail, it will flood. IMHO, there is no place anywhere in a marine system that a check valve is the correct choice.

[BioRee]

Originally Posted by Vinny Kreyling

Forget the Check Valve, you will get comfortable & then it will fail. NOT IF but WHEN.
You can drill a 1/8" hole just below the surface (facing downward) in the return line, that will break siphon sooner.

Do you have any pictures on how this is done?

[BioRee]

Originally Posted by smatter

You could use a check valve to prevent the back siphon but the sump must still be designed as if it didn't have a check valve. What do you hate about it? Too close to flooding? Raise your nozzle. I do my WCs right from the sump so I like it to fill up, with a couple of inches to spare of course.

The sump has plenty of volume and will not flood. Just don’t like it that every time I restart the pump ( from water change or feeding), gunks flying out the return nozzle.

[Vinny Kreyling]

Sorry no, but search siphon break here on RC there may be a diagram.

[opusthepenguin]

I've used one or syphon break for same reason. Syphon break holes can plug up too. Just need to have enough sump volume either way.

[Scurvy Dawg]

Originally Posted by BioRee

The sump has plenty of volume and will not flood. Just don’t like it that every time I restart the pump ( from water change or feeding), gunks flying out the return nozzle.

I get a few white chunks flying out of my return nozzle on my RSR170 when the pump restarts and to be honest, I would rather it blow that crap out instead of building up in the pipe.

[BioRee]

Originally Posted by Scurvy Dawg

I get a few white chunks flying out of my return nozzle on my RSR170 when the pump restarts and to be honest, I would rather it blow that crap out instead of building up in the pipe.

That is true. I am just afraid one of my fishes will get caught and lose an eye.

[smatter]

The stuff that gets into my tank when the pump turns back on got kicked up in the sump during the water change. A check valve wouldn't help with that.

[Cheapreef]

On my Reefer Nano I just pull the return nozzel up out of the water when I turn off the return for water changes, very little flows back . And for the size of your return line the Eheim Large 16/22mm is the correct size.

[Lsufan]

I use check valves on both of my systems to keep the water level in the tank from draining to much. I set up both tanks without them to be 100 percent certain that if they failed I wouldn’t have a flood. I installed a union above & below where the check valve was going & once I had the system setup & was sure I could handle the backflow I switched out the section of pipe inbetween the unions with the valve. I still have the pipe I removed with the unions on the ends so I can easily put the pipe back in place if need be. I would not setup a tank having to rely on a check valve.

My returns are drilled so I drain about 3” of water out of the tank when I turn the return off. When that happens & I turn the return on it shoots bubbles everywhere & has some splashing. So I use the check valves to keep that from happening. Siphon breaks don’t work on all systems. My returns on my big tank are 1.5” so i just have the bulkhead with no fittings or locline insidebof the tank because I rather only have the bulkhead. So it doesn’t only drain until it sucks air, it drains until the hole bulkhead is above water level. Siphon breaks work good if u have a over the back return or a return that comes out of the overflow box on a reef ready tank. Anything that has a U bend they work well, but not on a tank where the return is drilled in the back of the tank.

As far as sizes, I’m not sure where u are located but I know locally to me all u can get is 3/4”, they don’t make them in 5/8”. If u do decide to use one make sure u get one without any springs in it. Get eighther a swing check valve or the Y check valve. I have one of both & the swing check valve failed after about 2 years so I took it off & cleaned it & it has been good since. I have had the Y check valve for about two years & it has never failed.

Like I said, as long as u set the system up to where u aren’t relying on a check valve then they are ok to use for other reasons IMO. Because they will fail eventually

[BioRee]

Originally Posted by Cheapreef

On my Reefer Nano I just pull the return nozzel up out of the water when I turn off the return for water changes, very little flows back . And for the size of your return line the Eheim Large 16/22mm is the correct size.

hahaha, that's my problem. I always forget to adjust the nozzle when I do water changes.

[BioRee]

Originally Posted by Lsufan

I use check valves on both of my systems to keep the water level in the tank from draining to much. I set up both tanks without them to be 100 percent certain that if they failed I wouldn’t have a flood. I installed a union above & below where the check valve was going & once I had the system setup & was sure I could handle the backflow I switched out the section of pipe inbetween the unions with the valve. I still have the pipe I removed with the unions on the ends so I can easily put the pipe back in place if need be. I would not setup a tank having to rely on a check valve.

My returns are drilled so I drain about 3” of water out of the tank when I turn the return off. When that happens & I turn the return on it shoots bubbles everywhere & has some splashing. So I use the check valves to keep that from happening. Siphon breaks don’t work on all systems. My returns on my big tank are 1.5” so i just have the bulkhead with no fittings or locline insidebof the tank because I rather only have the bulkhead. So it doesn’t only drain until it sucks air, it drains until the hole bulkhead is above water level. Siphon breaks work good if u have a over the back return or a return that comes out of the overflow box on a reef ready tank. Anything that has a U bend they work well, but not on a tank where the return is drilled in the back of the tank.

As far as sizes, I’m not sure where u are located but I know locally to me all u can get is 3/4”, they don’t make them in 5/8”. If u do decide to use one make sure u get one without any springs in it. Get eighther a swing check valve or the Y check valve. I have one of both & the swing check valve failed after about 2 years so I took it off & cleaned it & it has been good since. I have had the Y check valve for about two years & it has never failed.

Like I said, as long as u set the system up to where u aren’t relying on a check valve then they are ok to use for other reasons IMO. Because they will fail eventually

I have not able to locate a check valve with 5/8". BRS only has size 3/4". Wondering if using some Teflon tapes would do? The difference is so small but afraid of leaks.

[outy]

Don't use a check valve.

Drill a hole I the return and keep it clean.

I have mine covered with painted black plexiglass so light does not grow algae on it. Gunk still accumulates.

[Lsufan]

Originally Posted by BioRee

I have not able to locate a check valve with 5/8". BRS only has size 3/4". Wondering if using some Teflon tapes would do? The difference is so small but afraid of leaks.

No, that won’t work. U would have to figure out a way to adapt from the 3/4” to 5/8” which will be tricky. In the US they don’t make 5/8” pvc fittings so I can’t help with that unless u change out the return to 3/4”.

[BioRee]

Originally Posted by outy

Don't use a check valve.



Drill a hole I the return and keep it clean.



I have mine covered with painted black plexiglass so light does not grow algae on it. Gunk still accumulates.

You mind share a picture of how it was done? Thanks.

[BioRee]

Originally Posted by Lsufan

No, that won’t work. U would have to figure out a way to adapt from the 3/4” to 5/8” which will be tricky. In the US they don’t make 5/8” pvc fittings so I can’t help with that unless u change out the return to 3/4”.

I see, but I think it’s going to be hard to find the correct fitting.

[outy]

Originally Posted by BioRee

You mind share a picture of how it was done? Thanks.

At the top of my U turn in the plastic return line in the overflow near the top. I have a 1/8 hole drilled on the side in the middle of the return tube, so the little stream of water is aimed to the wall of the overflow when it is running.

when power stops the air breaks the syphon from the hole.

So the highest point in your return line on the side you need to make a small hole. To small it just gurgles, start small and work to a larger bit. Just make sure the hole is aimed so that where the water shoots out it wont make a mess.

[ktownhero]

Drill a tiny hole just below the water line in your return nozzles or simply pull the return nozzles up right after turning off the return pump. I agree with others, a check valve seems like a good idea but in reality its not.

[smatter]

The OP doesn't want a check valve for a poorly designed sump that floods, he wants it to prevent any back siphon. In this circumstance the sump wouldn't flood even if the check valve did fail.

[outy]

Originally Posted by ktownhero

Drill a tiny hole just below the water line in your return nozzles or simply pull the return nozzles up right after turning off the return pump. I agree with others, a check valve seems like a good idea but in reality its not.

You do not drill it below water line.