Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[1234]

Getting back to Be An's Overflow, would someone link me as to where I can get those 1 1/2" PVC Sanitary Tee's

tia

[teesquare]

Anywhere they sell PVC pipe and fittings, it is a common piece.
Used for drain plumbing.
Look at Savko Plastics on line to find a picture of it, then when you go to Lowe's, Home Depot or Menards - which ever is most convenient - you will know what you are looking for.
T

[gem]

I found my sanitary t's at Ace...but Home Depot, Lowe's have them too. I wasn't able to find the white sched 40, but they did have them in black exactly like the ones in the parts diagram.
HTH

[duijver]

I've been reading through the original thread and this thread now for a couple of weeks (lots of data to sift through...) and I am about to start my design in a few days.

One of the biggest hurdles has been the bulkhead sizes and if I should go with the original specs or decrease it to 3/4". Yes, I know that 1" is the best, but I was conerned more about more problems down the road. I plan on designing this on a 46g bow and having 3 - 1" bulkheads, and the associated 1.5" piping, seemed like a lot given the size. Expecially considering the fact that I don't have much room - 36"x12" at the top side. The internal box would need to be really skinny and this may be impossible with a 1" bulkhead.

A. Would the size of the tank, and thickness of the glass, significantly affect the possibilty of the tank cracking if the flexpipes were nudged? Also, they would be feeding into a 10g sump (biggest that can fit into a 46g bow AGA stand.

B. I noticed some have modded the pipes in the internal overflows, but does anyone know the difference in sizes between these mods on a 3/4" vs a 1"? Maybe the difference is minimal?

Thanks in advance!

[Heavy Hittah]

hey bean,

i dont know if you stated this before, maybe i missed it, but ive been through all the pages i think, but what return pump are using?

[1234]

thanks teesquare

but where I am both HD and Lowes don't have them in the plumbing dept where all the other PVC's are, been there and even asked

never mind, just found it

[teesquare]

If you have building inspections thru the permitting dept. at your courthouse...SOMEONE sells sanitary tees......
These are mandated by building code because they are less flow inhibiting than a standard tee.
The center portion than would point downward if you oriented the tee as a letter "T" has a slight "bias" or is curved where it intersects with the upper cross piece. This curve is oriented towards the direction of flow.
Seriously, ANY store that sells PVC pipe and fittings sells sanitary tees. They are in the "DWV"- (Drain, Waste and Vent) section - not the "pressure fittings" ( Schedule 40) section.
Ask for the dept. mgr. if you are getting the "part-timer yo-yo" treatment"...
Good Luck!
T

[tonyespinoza]

beananimal - do you have any idea what my MAX flow might be for the following?

1.5" siphon
1.5" open channel
1.5" emergency

?

[cardiffgiant]

Originally posted by 1234
Getting back to Be An's Overflow, would someone link me as to where I can get those 1 1/2" PVC Sanitary Tee's

tia

I got mine at home depot. IME, sanitary tees smaller than 1.5" are harder to find.

[cardiffgiant]

I just finished setting mine up, and... WOW. Sooooo quite. A little trickle from the water going over the edge of the overflow, nothing from the pipes. Dead. Silent.

I'll upload pics tomorrow. Exhausted right now.

Thanks Bean!!!!

[BeanAnimal]

Originally posted by Rizup
I hate to ask this since I haven't read through the whole thread with the split and all, but is it possible to put this system together on an Oceanic tech tank? I have four 1" bulkheads on the bottom of the tank, so I was thinking that I could run two siphons, one open channel, and one emergency. I currently use 1.25" pipe in the overflow for two Gurgle Busters, but I think I could make some modified Durso's for this, or am I better off with the Herbie method? I had already thought about plumbing returns over the back and running all four bulkheads as drains, but I am looking to silence the drains if possible. Right now the drains make some noise keeping up with my Snapper return pump. Thanks for the input and help.

Mike

(3) 1" bulkheads with the 1.25" standpipes will handle the snapper. That is the same return pump I use BTW.

[BeanAnimal]

Originally posted by reefer_man_mike
Bean,

I am currently setting up a 120 and have had holes drilled in my tank for my over flow and CL. But only today did i find out about your creation. I was wondering if its still possible to alter my design to perhaps drill more holes to accommodate the other 2 stand pipes. I was thinking to myself how many holes can a tank take before its to much. Then i saw that picture a couple pages back with the tank with 11 holes in the back glass.

My tank is made with 1/2" glass with a single center brace. I have 3 holes in the back glass which are 2.5" or 2.75" what ever a 1.5" bulk head takes.

I would hesitate to tell you how many holes you can safely drill. On the other hand, plenty of folks have drilled for more holes than you propose.

My next question is, i read in the thread that you can not feed the skimmer with this set up as it is asking for trouble. How about feeding my fuge in my sump is this possible still?

A few folks have fed the skimmer with the setup. You can certainly feed your fuge. That said, I am in favor of high flow fuges.

[BeanAnimal]

Originally posted by duijver
I've been reading through the original thread and this thread now for a couple of weeks (lots of data to sift through...) and I am about to start my design in a few days.

One of the biggest hurdles has been the bulkhead sizes and if I should go with the original specs or decrease it to 3/4". Yes, I know that 1" is the best, but I was conerned more about more problems down the road. I plan on designing this on a 46g bow and having 3 - 1" bulkheads, and the associated 1.5" piping, seemed like a lot given the size. Expecially considering the fact that I don't have much room - 36"x12" at the top side. The internal box would need to be really skinny and this may be impossible with a 1" bulkhead.

You can use 3/4" with success on a tank that size.

A. Would the size of the tank, and thickness of the glass, significantly affect the possibilty of the tank cracking if the flexpipes were nudged? Also, they would be feeding into a 10g sump (biggest that can fit into a 46g bow AGA stand.

Plumbing should ALWAYS be secured, not hanging off of the bulklhead. Yes you can crack the tank or cause the gasket to leak of the plumbing is putting torque on the bulkhead.

B. I noticed some have modded the pipes in the internal overflows, but does anyone know the difference in sizes between these mods on a 3/4" vs a 1"? Maybe the difference is minimal?

Not sure I understand the question... A 1" pipe has roughly twice the area of a 3/4" pipe.



Thanks in advance! [/B][/QUOTE]

[BeanAnimal]

Originally posted by Heavy Hittah
hey bean,

i dont know if you stated this before, maybe i missed it, but ive been through all the pages i think, but what return pump are using?

ReeFlo Snapper

[BeanAnimal]

Originally posted by tonyespinoza
beananimal - do you have any idea what my MAX flow might be for the following?

1.5" siphon
1.5" open channel
1.5" emergency

?

Too many variables are involved to give you a hard number. I would say in the 3,000 GPH neighborhood would be easy though.

[BeanAnimal]

Originally posted by cardiffgiant
I just finished setting mine up, and... WOW. Sooooo quite. A little trickle from the water going over the edge of the overflow, nothing from the pipes. Dead. Silent.

I'll upload pics tomorrow. Exhausted right now.

Thanks Bean!!!!

Welcome!

[Rizup]

Originally posted by BeanAnimal
(3) 1" bulkheads with the 1.25" standpipes will handle the snapper. That is the same return pump I use BTW.

I love my snapper so far! Seems to be a great pump.

So I would be okay running this setup on my tank even though it uses a standard reef ready overflow? The problem I had starting out was that since the overflow is not nearly as deep front to back, standard dursos would not fit. I made some modified dursos that should fit, but I went with the gurgle busters instead.

Would the modified dursos be the way to go for the three standpipes? Correct me if I am wrong on any of this please:

I would have two dursos without vent holes - one set higher than the normal operating level in the overflow (emergency drain) and one set to drain normally (full siphon). Then I would have another durso with the vent and this one would be set a little higher than the full siphon correct? Same as in your diagram but in the internal overflow. I was thinking that I should be able to make the dursos work for this by changing the angle of the elbow where necessary. My only concern is that in order to keep air out of the full siphon drain, I will probably need to keep it's height shorter, does this sound right? Will this introduce more of a water fall effect or will the open channel compensate for this?

Sorry for the long post, but I really appreciate your help in getting my tank quieted down.



Mike

[zachtos]

Bean, I'm looking for a wet end (56J) for a VFD project I'm planning. Sequence/Reeflo do not want to sell me a wet-end w/o a motor and I read that you had some laying around? Willing to sell? What types are they etc?

(sorry to post here, but I can not find a way to contact you)

*side note, I ended up running my return to a 200 micron filter sock and that stopped my micro bubbles (although I will do this style of return for the next system)

[cardiffgiant]

Here are a couple of shots of my overflow and plumbing. Thanks again!

And here is a link to my build thread, in case anyone is interested:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1389407

[MSU Fan]

Thanks for everything Bean - I just got my tank running. I know that you said you pushed the envelope on how much flow it can handle, but do you know if the water pipes are as silent if you undersupply the flow?

Right now I only have ~300gph going through this set up (same sizing as you proposed), so I am not sure I get this silent because there is so little flow in it. Any thoughts?

[cardiffgiant]

Does anyone know where I could order 1" x 1.25" slip street elbows? I haven't seen them anywhere locally, and haven't been able to find them online.

[MSU Fan]

I had the same problem cardiffgiant. Unfortunately, my bulkhead had threads in them, so I used a 1"x1.25"male adapter and a 1.25" street elbow.

[cardiffgiant]

I tried that, but my overflow is too tight to fit the larger elbow.

[NaClTDog]

Bean, great stuff here and on your web site!!!! And from p-burg!!! Steeler Fan, good God man do you drink Iron City?

Ok little of topic but my real question is on your web site you built a base for your tank with some type of mdf or something, what I want to know about is the process of the clear arcylic self leveling sealer. what it is, where to get it......

thanks

[sscherin]

Just wated to say tanks for the idea..
It's working great in my 55..
I didn't have room for the 3rd safety line but my testing shows that the my stockman side can handle full flow if necessary and in the event of a full blockage the pump chamber runs dry before a flood..

In the event of a full on flood (how that would happen i I don't know)
the top of the stockman is an open pipe (not enough flow through it to make any noise anyway) It's ends below the rim of the tank and would go full siphon when it's covered and bypass any in skimmer box blockage.

I'm only pushing about 400 gph, returns are 3/4"



Soup cans are only temporary