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Unread 04/16/2006, 09:12 PM   #276
DHyslop
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I steer clear of antifreeze. Lets see, less heat transfer and poisonous. No thank you!

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Unread 04/17/2006, 12:21 PM   #277
Jamescoop
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Where can you get the plastic bulkhead piece?

Woudl it be useful to have a bulkhead AND overflow? That way, you can drain water for water changes and have an overflow...


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Unread 04/17/2006, 12:53 PM   #278
swedish steel
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I get my bulkhead fittings from plumbingsupply.com. These are heavy duty fittings. You can get schedule 40 or schedule 80 bulkhead fittings, but I prefer the idea of a more heavy duty fitting that the schedule 40 since I do not want to tear the tank down to replace a faulty one later. Be sure to match the hole saw to the required dimension of the bulkhead hole requirement before drilling.


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Unread 04/17/2006, 12:57 PM   #279
swedish steel
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I believe a coast-to-coast type weir overflow serviced by bulkheads feeding a sump with any partial water change or top off occuring at the sump is the best way to go.


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Unread 04/17/2006, 02:57 PM   #280
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Quote:
Originally posted by zeblisik
why would you want to use lubrication? I mean, the diamond coated hole saw cuts through the glass by virtue of scratching it, that is, contact, friction.. no?
if the glass gets hot it will crack. also keeping the bit lubricated prolongs the life of the bit


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Unread 04/17/2006, 03:36 PM   #281
Jamescoop
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you realize that schedule 40 is heavier duty than schedule 80 right?


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Unread 04/17/2006, 03:41 PM   #282
Bowman
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jamescoop
you realize that schedule 40 is heavier duty than schedule 80 right?
I believe you have that backwards Schedule 80 is heavier duty than Schedule 40. HTH


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Unread 04/17/2006, 08:00 PM   #283
dtaranath
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this is a dumb question, and completely off the topic, but what does "HTH" stand for? I keep seeing it over and over.


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Unread 04/17/2006, 08:00 PM   #284
dtaranath
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this is a dumb question, and completely off the topic, but what does "HTH" stand for? I keep seeing it over and over.


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Unread 04/17/2006, 08:13 PM   #285
Barto
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HTH = Hope That (or This) Helps

HTH,

From the RC main page, left column, near the bottom, reefkeeping acronyms:
http://reefcentral.com/modules.php?s...&eid=2&ltr=all

(just so happens HTH isn't there)


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Unread 04/17/2006, 09:27 PM   #286
swedish steel
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dtarnanth- you were asking how many holes you can expect with a hole saw from Lau. Of course, the glass thickness makes a difference. I started drilling yesterday on my 130 and 300. The 70mm hole saw put two holes in the 130 at 1/2 inch thick and three in the 300 at 5/8 inch thick. The fifth hole that was in the 300 took about two hours. The next hole was with a new hole saw on the 300 and only took 25 minutes. I am going at 500-1000 rpm with plenty of water from a squirt bottle and not too much pressure. At the price of these hole saws, I will spend the money to get more hole saws to take less time than worry about how many holes I can get from each one.


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Unread 04/18/2006, 06:59 AM   #287
dtaranath
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ah, thanks. i was just asking because I was wondering if I should just go ahead and get another one. I guess I'll see how it goes.


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Unread 04/18/2006, 07:33 AM   #288
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by my 3rd hole thru 1/2" glass the first bit was very tired. luckily i had another new one handy to do the fourth.




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Unread 04/18/2006, 10:52 AM   #289
BallaBooyeaH
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Placed my order with Lau - can't wait to get the bits and to start drilling.

This thread is great and have given me the confidence to do the drilling.

Not going for the test one first as I need 4 holes from 1 bit. Will let you know how I get on.


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Unread 04/18/2006, 11:30 AM   #290
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If you can make a template with a piece of plywood it really helps. you'll need a regular holesaw bit for the plywood. Then just clamp the ply to the tank to get the hole started. Really helped for me, no freehanding required!


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Unread 04/20/2006, 07:50 AM   #291
BallaBooyeaH
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Goldstripe - Where did you get them inlet strainers? Are they threaded?

Intresting - I am looking at just using a rounded gate - Yours look great. I need one for a 2" bulkhead. Where are they from?


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Unread 04/20/2006, 08:43 AM   #292
GoldStripe
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Quote:
Originally posted by BallaBooyeaH
Goldstripe - Where did you get them inlet strainers? Are they threaded?

Intresting - I am looking at just using a rounded gate - Yours look great. I need one for a 2" bulkhead. Where are they from?
I got those strainers and the bulkheads from Aquatic Eco-System . They have tons of plumbing parts. They are threaded.

The ball valves are Hayward True Union valves. Aquatic Eco has them as well. I got lucky and found those 4 on ebay for 1/2 the price. I have seen 2" models on ebay as well.


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Unread 04/21/2006, 08:50 AM   #293
adnup
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I have a 55gal AGA and I got my bits from Lau(45mm & 60mm).

Should I do the coast to coast overflow?

Is the c-t-c needed in a 55?

And if I do should I drill two holes for the overflow or would 1 be enough?

Thanks in advance


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Unread 04/21/2006, 08:58 AM   #294
GoldStripe
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Quote:
Originally posted by adnup
I have a 55gal AGA and I got my bits from Lau(45mm & 60mm).

Should I do the coast to coast overflow?

Is the c-t-c needed in a 55?

And if I do should I drill two holes for the overflow or would 1 be enough?

Thanks in advance
No matter which way you go, I'd do more than 1 hole. I'm afraid that with a 55 you are going to lose too much space inside the tank with an internal Calfo style overflow. Mine comes off the back wall 4 1/2" which isn't much on a 24" deep, 30" tall tank. But on a 55 that is almost half the space. If it was me, on a 55 I would make a very thin box inside that spans the whole tank and then use 2 external boxes where your holes are drilled. That way you are not taking up so much room in the tank.


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Unread 04/21/2006, 09:11 AM   #295
adnup
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I like that idea, but I'm affraid of the external boxes leaking or worse yet falling off......


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Unread 04/21/2006, 10:04 AM   #296
GoldStripe
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silicone is what's holding your tank together. It wouldn't fall off if you did it right. I understand what you mean though. I was worried when I siliconed my internal overflow in. I worried that the silicone would not hold the weight of the glass but it is unbelievably strong.


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Unread 04/21/2006, 10:09 AM   #297
vanceny
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Goldstrip,

I'm working on a similiar design on a 90 gallon with a calfo overflow and a closed loop. Are your returns coming over the top? If so why not just drill some returns below the overflow. This is what I was considering.

I'm will be using 2 1-1/2" holes in the overflow and 2 1" returns. For the closed loop, I will have 2 1" drains with 2 3/4" returns. The sump will be run by a mag7 and the closed loop a mag12.

Each return will be split and loc-line used to direct flow. What do you think?


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Unread 04/21/2006, 10:22 AM   #298
GoldStripe
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Quote:
Originally posted by vanceny
Goldstrip,

I'm working on a similiar design on a 90 gallon with a calfo overflow and a closed loop. Are your returns coming over the top? If so why not just drill some returns below the overflow. This is what I was considering.

I'm will be using 2 1-1/2" holes in the overflow and 2 1" returns. For the closed loop, I will have 2 1" drains with 2 3/4" returns. The sump will be run by a mag7 and the closed loop a mag12.

Each return will be split and loc-line used to direct flow. What do you think?
My sump returns are coming over the top and to the front of the tank. I have considered having 2 of the CL returns drilled into the overflow instead staying on top of the tank like the sump returns. i will probably do that actually, and use loc-line like I have for the sump returns. I should have drilled those holes before I siliconed the overflow in.

As far as your drains and returns, sounds great. Mag 7 with 2 1.5" drains will be silent and you could close 1 drain completely and still have no worries about overflowing the tank. I have an Iwaki MD70 return pump and I can almost close one drain completely.

Are you drilling for the closed loop? I suspect that you are. On a 90 you may want a tad more flow than a Mag12. If you like mags, think about stepping up to the 18. If you're not sold on the mags, there are plenty of other options. I chose a Dart but that may be too much in a 90, although you could make it work great. Have you looked at Oceans Motions units? They are great for closed loops because they alternate the current. Again, it depends on your budget constraints. This is why my 150 has taken me a year to put together. Money and also planning and research.


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Unread 04/21/2006, 10:28 AM   #299
dtaranath
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Quote:
Originally posted by adnup
I have a 55gal AGA and I got my bits from Lau(45mm & 60mm).

Should I do the coast to coast overflow?

Is the c-t-c needed in a 55?

And if I do should I drill two holes for the overflow or would 1 be enough?

Thanks in advance
make sure your tank is not tempered. Some 55 gal tanks are tempered all the way around.


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Unread 04/21/2006, 10:32 AM   #300
vanceny
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Those pumps are just what I have on hand. I suppose I can set it up and if I find that I need more I can always upgrade them. For my drains do you think I need to make the external durso or are they large enough that it wouldn't be necessary? They drains would probably never be below the water line considering the amount of flow going trhough them.

i have not started to drill but when you mentioned drilling the returns in the overflow, would you then use loc-line to go over the overflow and point back down? Could you explain further. Just curious, I thought I would need to drill below the overflow but like your scenario better if I can hide some of the returns.


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