Reefbreeders/(Evergrow OEM) Fixtures D120/IT20** series

[kagetaro99]

Im looking to switch over my lights to LEDs and was wondering if it would be better to go with the 2 value fixtures or the 32" controllable fixture for my 75gal with a center brace. Any input you guys could give would be helpful. Im looking to be able to keep everything (LPS, SPS, Clams)

[albano]

Originally Posted by kagetaro99

Im looking to switch over my lights to LEDs and was wondering if it would be better to go with the 2 value fixtures or the 32" controllable fixture for my 75gal with a center brace. Any input you guys could give would be helpful. Im looking to be able to keep everything (LPS, SPS, Clams)

I've seen the 32" IT unit at bhazard's home...for the difference, I wouldn't even consider the non-controller units!

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by albano

I've seen the 32" IT unit at bhazard's home...for the difference, I wouldn't even consider the non-controller units!

There's always room for improvements. Trying 430nm violets and 405nm violets mixed in with the standard 420s from a vendor I cant name because he was banned here.

Trying to get evergrow to make a 6 channel fixture. Reefbreeders is working on a 9 channel one with wireless control that sounds intriguing as well.

[Indusrty]

2 it2080s or 3 dt120s and an apex jr. For a 125g standard tank?

[Thanksgramps]

How do folks calculate the right height from water and proper optics for spread/depth. Is there an agreed to formula?

[BigRedNole]

I am not sure about measurements. My tank is new with a single IT2040 from ReefBreeders. I just put the first corals in on Saturday. They open up and like it on the bottom. My lights are ~10" above the water. I am working on the custom programming as well for the light cycle.

If anyone has a good light cycle, please post.

[kagetaro99]

What optics should I use on the 32" unit over a 75gal tank? And how far off the water do you thing I should have it?

[BigRedNole]

Originally Posted by kagetaro99

What optics should I use on the 32" unit over a 75gal tank? And how far off the water do you thing I should have it?

That depends on the depth and length of the tank. I will assume you have a 4' wide tank. If you center it, that leaves 8" on each end of the light. Even though this light is bright, that is a lot of distance and depth to cover. I would say 120* on at least the outside edges. It is difficult to tell how far off the top of the tank. This light is BRIGHT. I don't see a need to run them over 50% of power. The higher you raise the, the more power you may need to add.

Beyond that, I cannot offer more detail. I am hoping to build the arduino PAR meter to see what the readings are on this light.

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by BigRedNole

I am not sure about measurements. My tank is new with a single IT2040 from ReefBreeders. I just put the first corals in on Saturday. They open up and like it on the bottom. My lights are ~10" above the water. I am working on the custom programming as well for the light cycle.

If anyone has a good light cycle, please post.

I usually keep the blues 10-20% higher than the whites for most of the cycle. I go down about 5-10% every 30 minutes, and run at 100% for 2 hours.

[BigRedNole]

bhazard, Thanks. I am tweaking my light setting, but I have not taken them over 60% since anything went into the tank. Right now, I have the blues about 10-15% points higher than the whites. I do want to get/make that Arduino PAR meter get readings on my tank. It will help for the light cycle.

[jschultzbass]

bhazard, do you like the Maxspect razors or the 16" controllable fixture better?

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by jschultzbass

bhazard, do you like the Maxspect razors or the 16" controllable fixture better?

Depends on what you are looking for.

If you won't ever feel the need to swap leds with a soldering iron, the Razor is great. I wished the Razor had some red leds, and when I realized I couldn't make any changes, I knew the IT2080 was right for me.

[ganjero]

What kind of corals are you keeping and/or planning to keep? Have you opened any these fixtures and see the manufacturing quality (soldering job, cables used, fans used if any, etc)?
I'm hoping that they perform good for all kind of corals including SPS, and when I say that I just don't mean to keep them alive but to bring out true colors. They could not only be a great alternative but also drive down the prices of other fixtures.

[davidadelp]

im thinking about buying two of the 16" value fixtures to go over my 65g 36" tank with a middle brace. Any thoughts on this idea? would it be better to go with the 1 32" controllable fixture? im keeping Zoas mainly and softies and plan to get a clam or two eventually.

[chopper320]

I have one of the reefbreeders value fixtures over my 44 gallon pentagon and I really like it. It has manual dimmers but I do have the blues setup on a separate timer so that I can have an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening of only blues.

One question though. I bought it without optics, would it be difficult for me to add optics down the road?

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by ganjero

What kind of corals are you keeping and/or planning to keep? Have you opened any these fixtures and see the manufacturing quality (soldering job, cables used, fans used if any, etc)?
I'm hoping that they perform good for all kind of corals including SPS, and when I say that I just don't mean to keep them alive but to bring out true colors. They could not only be a great alternative but also drive down the prices of other fixtures.

I have a mixed tank. SPS on top, lps and softies down low. All are doing well, but if you do not acclimate with a lower light cycle, you can bleach SPS quite easily. I bleached 2 frags already by forgetting to do that.

I've opened up and taken pics of all the internals on these. They are solid, and built well. You might have to search the old thread for them, but here is one of the 16"





Neatly wired with quick connects. Drivers are labeled. Finned heatsink. Optics twist on and off easily. Never had a problem with any of them.

[ganjero]

Thanks for the pics. If AI doesn't come out soon with custom/new pucks for the Sol to include other colors (it has been suggested and they said they are looking into that) I might give a try to one of these fixtures.

[frog.pauley]

The more I read the more I want the RB fixtures! Building new tank 72" 150 w/ 2 braces. Will three of the values work for a litle of everything. Complete mix. Would it be better to have 3 of the 16" contollable? I really want to beat te heat of halides...My 75 would hit close to 90 in the summer with 2 150w halides. NO ac is a killer!

[BlueFyre]

Originally Posted by davidadelp

im thinking about buying two of the 16" value fixtures to go over my 65g 36" tank with a middle brace. Any thoughts on this idea? would it be better to go with the 1 32" controllable fixture? im keeping Zoas mainly and softies and plan to get a clam or two eventually.

I have a 24" controllable reef breeders fixture over my 65 gallon. I've been really happy with it. I keep mostly softies and LPS with a few SPS. All have been doing very well.
I haven't found the best camera settings to get the true color. But it shows the coverage.

[Kaptain]

Getting back into the hobby after about four years. Previous setup was 220 reef - all HQI lighting. Looking at starting back into the hobby with a 60 cube (24x24x22high). Plan on softies and lps, like my previous tank. From reading, it sounds like the 16" controllable fixture from ReefBreeders would fit the bill nicely. What do you think?

[BigRedNole]

I think the IT2040 would be fine. The edges may be a little low light at the bottom. You can fix that maybe with a few 120* optics. It also depends on how close to the water you want it. It is a bright light and I think 1 is enough.

[Reef_Breeders]

Originally Posted by kagetaro99

Im looking to switch over my lights to LEDs and was wondering if it would be better to go with the 2 value fixtures or the 32" controllable fixture for my 75gal with a center brace. Any input you guys could give would be helpful. Im looking to be able to keep everything (LPS, SPS, Clams)

Either setup would work well on your tank, if you need more than 100 par in the bottom corners, then 2 16" fixtures would be the better choice. We have a custom optics layout for 4' tanks.

Originally Posted by Indusrty

2 it2080s or 3 dt120s and an apex jr. For a 125g standard tank?

Either one will work, personally I would go with 2 IT2080s with 90 degree optics. You would get 33% more power, and use 2 power cords instead of 6, with the ability to control your lights.

Originally Posted by Thanksgramps

How do folks calculate the right height from water and proper optics for spread/depth. Is there an agreed to formula?

For tanks under 24" deep, 120 degree. 24"-30" deep, 90 degree 36"-40" deep, 60 degree. Some of these specs overlap.

Originally Posted by kagetaro99

What optics should I use on the 32" unit over a 75gal tank? And how far off the water do you thing I should have it?

We have a custom optics layout that will be standard on all fixtures starting 2/21/13. You can mount it as low as 6" over the water, 8-10" is suggested. The center brace has no effect, check out this photo album:
http://s1131.beta.photobucket.com/us...able%20Fixture

Originally Posted by davidadelp

im thinking about buying two of the 16" value fixtures to go over my 65g 36" tank with a middle brace. Any thoughts on this idea? would it be better to go with the 1 32" controllable fixture? im keeping Zoas mainly and softies and plan to get a clam or two eventually.

with mostly softies, you would be better off saving your money and going with one of the 24" fixtures. It will provide plenty of coverage, and you would be able to put a clam in the middle no problem.

Originally Posted by chopper320

I have one of the reefbreeders value fixtures over my 44 gallon pentagon and I really like it. It has manual dimmers but I do have the blues setup on a separate timer so that I can have an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening of only blues.

One question though. I bought it without optics, would it be difficult for me to add optics down the road?

It is very easy to replace them, we can send out optics for additional cost.

Originally Posted by frog.pauley

The more I read the more I want the RB fixtures! Building new tank 72" 150 w/ 2 braces. Will three of the values work for a litle of everything. Complete mix. Would it be better to have 3 of the 16" contollable? I really want to beat te heat of halides...My 75 would hit close to 90 in the summer with 2 150w halides. NO ac is a killer!

Either three values, 3 16" controllable, or 2 32" fixtures would work. I would use 2 32" controllable fixtures with 90 degree optics, that way you could grow sps to the sand bed.

Originally Posted by Kaptain

Getting back into the hobby after about four years. Previous setup was 220 reef - all HQI lighting. Looking at starting back into the hobby with a 60 cube (24x24x22high). Plan on softies and lps, like my previous tank. From reading, it sounds like the 16" controllable fixture from ReefBreeders would fit the bill nicely. What do you think?

the 16" fixture should do very well over that tank. I would use 90 degree optics, maybe 120s if you want to be closer than 6-8" from the water.

Hope I got everyone!

[Dbondaruk]

I bought a it 2040 with 90 degree optics. If I take them off would that make them 120 degree? Or do you sell I 120 degree optic. It's over my 40 g breeder mixed reef about 10 inches from water.im running at 45 Chanel 1 and 40 channel 2 at peak hours... My corals don't look that happy.

[Dbondaruk]

Water levels are stable 8 dkh. .5 nitrate 0 phosphate and calcium 460

[grandp10]

Originally Posted by bhazard451

I usually keep the blues 10-20% higher than the whites for most of the cycle. I go down about 5-10% every 30 minutes, and run at 100% for 2 hours.

So for 2 hrs. of the day you run both channels at 100%, or do you mean the blues at 100% and the whites the usual 10-20% lower than 100%?