My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges - Page 16

sensei · 09/09/2017, 04:17 PM

Wally,

I believe that a 250W bulb has to be fired by a 250W ballast to be sure you have the correct spectrum. Instead of lowering the Watts in the ballast why don't you just higher the MH lamps and keep the ballast with right wattage to get less par in the tank and at the same time warranty the right spectrum??

highering the fixture will also give you more even light in dt.

Wally.B · 09/09/2017, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sensei

Wally,

I believe that a 250W bulb has to be fired by a 250W ballast to be sure you have the correct spectrum. Instead of lowering the Watts in the ballast why don't you just higher the MH lamps and keep the ballast with right wattage to get less par in the tank and at the same time warranty the right spectrum??

highering the fixture will also give you more even light in dt.

I have been raising and lowering my fixture do change intensity.
Yes, higher gives more spread.

This 175W is only for a week.

Every time I raise MH lights (which is easy), it is a bit of work to match the T5's since they are on Hard Drop lines.

I did contact the bulb manurfacterer. They said that 250W DE bulb can be run at 150W, 175W. Yes a small shift to blue spectrum. But not much.
They said it DOES NOT hurt bulb, and that it will actually extend the bulb Life running at under-power setting.

Running 250W bulb on Overdrive settting will reduce bulb life by half.

Again, this is for a week at 175W till the spot of Cyano goes away, while I am dosing ZeoBak, mixed into Coral Snow.

Yes, I agree with George, and Reefmutt, that I should run PROPER PARS as I measured. Only option is Less Photo Period when I want to acclimatize.

I almost feel like I should remove every damaged coral from the recent past. Mount/Hide at them back of tank.
Just leave just the good ones in Front and visible from my Desk. That will make me forget wanting to make changes to fix things.

Wally.B · 09/09/2017, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wally.B

I almost feel like I should remove every damaged coral from the recent past. Mount/Hide at them back of tank.
Just leave just the good ones in Front and visible from my Desk. That will make me forget wanting to make changes to fix things.

And that is EXACTLY what I just did.

I trimmed all the corals with Burnt Tips.

Put the really bad ones into Frag Tank.

Put a couple in the back (out of view) to heal.

And I mounted Good Frags from DT Frag Rack, onto Rocks.

I can now look at my tank and not think it's rotting, and needs fix.

Fresh after fixes, photo, for Future Reference. (No New Frags, only what I had in DT, so All acclimatized Frags)

Also if something does go wrong on any Frag, I will notice.

KIND OF A "Fresh Start (Healthiest Frags) with Scrubber Running and Tank Stable" BUT with no new Frags to Experiment with (except the Forest Fire).

Onward.....

Again

sensei · 09/09/2017, 08:35 PM

the bulb manufacturer may tell you that and bulbs do run, but is there sufficient evidence that people has had success with acropora using those bulbs running them at lower wattage??
will they give the proper spectrum for coloring and growing sps??
Also keep in mind is that every time you change wattage in your ballast you will also be changing the spectrum and corals will have to adjust to that spectrum and it could be that spectrum is not the right one for exciting the proteins and showing the right colors.

This is my opinion
regards

Wally.B · 09/10/2017, 12:06 AM

Jorge,
Is it a good opinion, and makes perfect sense.
Stability for Successful SPS means Everything, including Light Spectrum over Long Period (The Sun may get Shaded by Clouds certain days, but when it shines Bright on the Corals it's the same Spectrum).
You convinced me. Going back to 250W but will raise light 1.5" (just for a week, and then go back to the proper PARS I measured.)

Wally.B · 09/10/2017, 12:20 AM

Water Tests (Not what I expected) But Nothing Scary

Full test with Frags in place, and back to Work on Monday. Summer Break is over.

ALK=7.5
CALC=440
MAG=1450
N < 25
P=0.12

Weird.
I am no longer dosing MAG, but it's on the higher side. Must be T.M.P. salt more frequent water changes.

P has started to Rise. Wonder why? GFO exhausted, will test, but won't refresh since want Scrubber to take over for both N & P.

I need to re-calibrate my PH probe. All summer my PH is just below 8.0.
I am still running outside AIR to Skimmer (That kept my PH around 8.2 during winter). Could summer air have less oxygen?

sensei · 09/10/2017, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wally.B

Jorge,
Is it a good opinion, and makes perfect sense.
Stability for Successful SPS means Everything, including Light Spectrum over Long Period (The Sun may get Shaded by Clouds certain days, but when it shines Bright on the Corals it's the same Spectrum).
You convinced me. Going back to 250W but will raise light 1.5" (just for a week, and then go back to the proper PARS I measured.)

I think, using the right wattage is the right move.
If you want less par just raise the fixure. I would not judge a decision in terms saving electricity, but in terms of growing a coloring acropora.
IME lower par does not hurt corals so maybe you should consider highering the halides a little more?? I do not recall your par readings, but in my tank going 3" up would result in a decrease of around 30-50 par according to my measurements but I have 400W halides.
I am not sure if 1.5" higher is enough to have a significant effect?

sensei · 09/10/2017, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wally.B

Water Tests (Not what I expected) But Nothing Scary

Full test with Frags in place, and back to Work on Monday. Summer Break is over.

ALK=7.5
CALC=440
MAG=1450
N < 25
P=0.12

Weird.
I am no longer dosing MAG, but it's on the higher side. Must be T.M.P. salt more frequent water changes.

P has started to Rise. Wonder why? GFO exhausted, will test, but won't refresh since want Scrubber to take over for both N & P.

I need to re-calibrate my PH probe. All summer my PH is just below 8.0.
I am still running outside AIR to Skimmer (That kept my PH around 8.2 during winter). Could summer air have less oxygen?

I also have an ATS and when I placed my GFO reactor in sump I saw that all acropora did not like it. many showed signs of worsening even though N and P seemed to be in range when GFO was in place.

Ed taught me that judging by the look of the acropora was far more important than result in test kits. Also having GFO will affect the algae filter, so I now run my tank with no GFO.
I wonder if the burn tips and all the worsening you had was caused by the GFO???

I do not dose Mag any more, it does not seem to change and it is replaced by the WC.

FLSharkvic · 09/10/2017, 08:14 AM

What kind of Rock are you using?

Wally.B · 09/10/2017, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sensei

I think, using the right wattage is the right move.
If you want less par just raise the fixure. I would not judge a decision in terms saving electricity, but in terms of growing a coloring acropora.
IME lower par does not hurt corals so maybe you should consider highering the halides a little more?? I do not recall your par readings, but in my tank going 3" up would result in a decrease of around 30-50 par according to my measurements but I have 400W halides.
I am not sure if 1.5" higher is enough to have a significant effect?

Here is what my Tank is at with 250W MH & 2 T5's (both on)

I think this should be idea for Acro's which are mostly at Mid Level. Thus just around 300 PARS.

For last couple of weeks MH are on 6 Hours. T5's 8 hours.

Wally.B · 09/10/2017, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FLSharkvic

What kind of Rock are you using?

What do you mean what kind?
It's Real Live Rock (not plastic or synthetic), just over 3 years old.

Same rocks back in 2014.

Wally.B · 09/10/2017, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sensei

I also have an ATS and when I placed my GFO reactor in sump I saw that all acropora did not like it. many showed signs of worsening even though N and P seemed to be in range when GFO was in place.

Ed taught me that judging by the look of the acropora was far more important than result in test kits. Also having GFO will affect the algae filter, so I now run my tank with no GFO.
I wonder if the burn tips and all the worsening you had was caused by the GFO???

I do not dose Mag any more, it does not seem to change and it is replaced by the WC.

You may have a good point.
I've read that other folks have also experienced problems with GFO added.
My last degradation of Corals started when I put new Media in GFO.
I was so Happy with P dropping to 0.06 that I thought it was good.

With scrubber now working again, I will Turn GFO off and see if things improve.
BUT TO BE SAFE, I have a valve on GFO reactor, and I will slowly turn it down, till it's 100% off to avoid any drastic change.

After all I have something More Handy/Safe to control N & P (The Auto Water Changes), Plus (The Alage Scrubber).

Wally.B · 09/10/2017, 01:49 PM

Ice Fire Enchinata Acro (Frag) Reference Photo

After seeing Matt post his Beautiful Ice Fire Colony yesterday, I hope this Frag survives.

From reading about the Ice Fire Enchinata, they can be hit and miss. Some folks lose them in 2 weeks, others have lost many corals during crash but not this one.

I believe from Reefmutt's comment that they grow slow, and if he says slow that must mean SLOW, since his other stuff has rocket packs.

Tough photo to take on such a small young frag.

It does have contrasting White with Blue tips. That is what caught my attention in GTAreef's tank. But in my lighting it's more all blue.

T5 (Color Plus Lighting)

At least it is showing some PE after being in my tank for a Over a Week (acclimatized at bottom).

MH +T5

It was lower on Frag Rack, but no choice but to on Rock about 1.5" higher.
Circulation in that spot is Medium, to Lower-High.
Lighting will be on the Higher Side since Directly under MH bulb.

Wally.B · 09/10/2017, 03:34 PM

Interesting Observation (Scrubber Running) Skimmage Change

Before I even notice my Scrubber shutting down, I was noticing that my Skimmer was running different.

All summer it was skimming much thicker and it puzzled me.

And now right after Scrubber started growing Algae (it is speeding up even more now), the Skimmer is more like before. Clear, thinner liquid.

Absolutely no change to Skimmer Setting.
Interesting.

I now have an indicator should scrubber shut down next time.

Wally.B · 09/10/2017, 05:46 PM

Any way to SAVE (RED PLANET)

The last Red Planet I had did this.

This time I put in Higher Lighting and Flow.

Over last while the base was receeding.

Few days ago I notice tiny white tip.

Receeding at base and tips continues, so it is moved lower and back of tank since I can't watch it anymore.

Is this it's way of bleaching Slowly?

Can't be Alk Burn.

It was a bit tilted before, and above picture show the side facing lights.

The opposite side (Shown Below) had less light, and the receeding isn't as bad. ((** TIPS NOT BURNT ON that side ** ))

So if less light side is doing better, that is why I moved lower.

Any suggestions to save it?

Put very low?

Wally.B · 09/10/2017, 11:10 PM

Circulation Tune UP/FIX (GyreXF150 / CP24 ) Mis-Balance [Particulate TRAP]

I'm been waiting for weeks for my tank to clear up from Particulate. (Was expecting Significant Clear up with SAND BED gone)

Tank Clarity is important not just for lighting, but for allowing stronger circulation. Without blasting corals with debris.

It's kept bothering me, that my corals look beaten up. Tank always Cloudy which was very noticeable with MH Lights on. Annoying.

When I first threw in the New CP40 Gyre Type pump (ON RIGHT SIDE) to compliment the MaxSpect XF150 (ON LEFT SIDE), I just wanted it running for better circulation mix.

TODAY, I took a closer look at my programming and flow.

What I discovered is that the XF-150 is way more powerful than the CP-40 at LIKE-TO-LIKE Setting.

I did look at the flow when I originally programmed things and there was some random mixing. I then added a few more flavours.

However today after observation, I notice that with XF150 being so much more powerful, the tank Water Column, always rotated CLOCKWISE.

And Futhermore the XF-150 Being on the same side as OVERFLOW, was pushing away MOST larger particulates away from Overflow Drain.

As shown ABOVE, my particulates would rotate over and over again.
And even worse, during lower circulation programming would setting on Rock and Corals. Only to be stired up again on next stronger Cycle.

I wasn't cleaning my tank of Particulates, by sending them down the overflow and into sump.

After playing with various power setting on both the CP-40 and XF-150, I found the sweet spot for BALANCE (50/100).

With that discovery I found better random mixes.
I then Programmed a variety of Balanced Mixes.

BUT THE GREATEST improvement was programming a mode when the Tank Cirulated Counter Clockwise.

And with the XF-150 Off, "MUCH MORE PARTICULATE" was going down the overflow.

I also learned from all this playing that I could find much better flow patterns, NONE of which were TOO STRONG LAMINAR FLOWS, directly hitting Coral (All reflected and broken up Currents).

-> My unique Setup with More Powerful Gyre Located Next to Overflow was the BIGGEST problem.
-> No programming to allow particulates down return.
-> Small tank is tight for circulation so random flow is more difficult
-> Mis-Balanced Pumps didn't help.
-> Corals at top (where most are) were being continuously irritated. I noticed those secluded were doing better.

-> This improvement also allows me to run more Gentler, but effective (Particulate Cleanup), flow overnight as well.

I simply can't see how a tank of Endless, increasing debris could be good for SPS!!

We'll see if tank clears up and I see less Particulate Blasted Corals

This may solve my lighting problem, since "There Is No Lighting Problem"

Hoping this also saves my Red Planet
-> Since Looking at it damaged much more on one side, couldn't have been just light.
-> PLUS!!! The base recession pattern looks like circulation blast (Seen in First Photo).
------> That is not vertical Light Damage or else it would have been a circular ring. It's a V-Shape around Stem (Flow deflected off stem).
------> That damage happened when I put Red Planet Higher originally for more light. BUT!! Also Closer to XF-150 Stronger Flow (And particulates).
-> Why are two tips not showing burnt tips? (They were facing the side with less laminar Flow).

reefmutt · 09/11/2017, 09:59 AM

Nice flow adjustments!
I agree with Jorge about the gfo.. with your n and p levels, you really shouldn't be overly concerned about p. Just leave it alone and leave the gfo off.
Watch the scrubber..
I've had p upwards of .2 for very long periods of time and although colour wasn't special, the corals were fine.
The gfo is yoyoing the p. Corals don't like that.
Personally, I think steady high levels of p are better than levels fluctuating in and out of a good range.
You have parameters relatively stable.. mag isn't too bad and in my experience takes a long time to change. Don't worry about it.
Raise the 250ws and leave them in place.. leave photoperiod and par alone, now. Seems pretty good to me..
Nutrients- don't touch them- let the scrubber work or not but don't intervene for several months.
I think your chop and hide technique for poor performers is a good idea, too.
Just observe for a while, no interventions- unless the tank is leaking or something!
There really isn't a contingency where it is life or death to run gfo.. no need to have it at the ready, I don't think.

Wally.B · 09/11/2017, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reefmutt

Nice flow adjustments!
I agree with Jorge about the gfo.. with your n and p levels, you really shouldn't be overly concerned about p. Just leave it alone and leave the gfo off.
Watch the scrubber..
I've had p upwards of .2 for very long periods of time and although colour wasn't special, the corals were fine.
The gfo is yoyoing the p. Corals don't like that.
Personally, I think steady high levels of p are better than levels fluctuating in and out of a good range.
You have parameters relatively stable.. mag isn't too bad and in my experience takes a long time to change. Don't worry about it.
Raise the 250ws and leave them in place.. leave photoperiod and par alone, now. Seems pretty good to me..
Nutrients- don't touch them- let the scrubber work or not but don't intervene for several months.
I think your chop and hide technique for poor performers is a good idea, too.
Just observe for a while, no interventions- unless the tank is leaking or something!
There really isn't a contingency where it is life or death to run gfo.. no need to have it at the ready, I don't think.

Thanks for these confirmations. I am in full agreement (N&P isn't too bad, let it drop slowly)

-->GFO is now OFF.

--> Lights raised for only few days (Acclimatize mounted corals), then I put back closer to ideal PAR levels
-------> Also things may get brighter if I clarify tank water.

I think the flow improvement to clear up tank is a good thing. Who knows it may even get the scrubber going better since scrubber runs on overflow drain.

BTW. I was in contact with Shih87 a while ago about improving one of my corals that he has. He said water clarity is important for certain corals.
To keep POM/DOM low. I asked what the heck is POM/DOM... Answer= (Particulate Organic Matter and Dissolved Organic Matter).
He said he blows his rocks clean every once in a while with powerhead.
Then runs a pump in his tank with a FILTER on input to capture the particulates.
Then he removes the clogged filter.

That stuck in my head, and that is why I noticed my tank being so particulate infested (and it wouldn't get better).

Things are setup for another trial run. Stability, and no more tinkering.

One thing, that I find strange. The left over frag pieces in Frag Tank are living. Healing cuts. Not great color, since I do nothing, but not bleaching like in my tank.
I don't even know what Water Chemistry is. But it must be stable since not touched.

Wally.B · 09/11/2017, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wally.B

One thing, that I find strange. The left over frag pieces in Frag Tank are living. Healing cuts. Not great color, since I do nothing, but not bleaching like in my tank.
I don't even know what Water Chemistry is. But it must be stable since not touched.

There must be a reason Frag tank is not killing Frags. It's certainly not the Hair Algae that is growing in it, since I don't clean it.

Frag Tank has been totally neglected.

I throw in wounded Frags and bits from DT for a last chance.
Here are two examples (the two on the Left).

These pieces in DT are long gone Dead.

This one was cut for DT, but I left the base.
Sure terribly brown, but I see hints of color now coming back.
Cut Healed over.

This one isn't colorful either, but it's actually Encrusting the plug.

FRAG TANK has 150W MH Bulb (x1). 1x Compact Flourscent Actinic.
(350 PARS since shallow water), so HIGHER PARS than DT (at higher Fixture now).

*** BUT HERE IS THE HEAD SCRATCHER *** Frag Tank runs purely from Water Change Water from DT (Old water).
I will check the water chemistry on the Frag Tank.

Wally.B · 09/11/2017, 09:16 PM

FRAG TANK (Water Tests) WOW!

ALK=7.7 (Same at DT)
CALC=440 (Same as DT)
N=5-10 (Less than DT)
P=0.44 (MUCH HIGHER than DT)

So my interpretation is this.

Alk is the same since 2 tiny Frags are not consuming Alk.
Calc same as above

N is lower since there is live Rock/Bacteria and it's consuming some of N.
No fish. No Fish Feeding. But there is light Coral Feeding.

P is a puzzle. Has it sky rocketed with the Coral Feeding. But nothing to export Phosphates?

If P swing is bad for Corals, then every piece I put in Frag Tank from DT die should instantly (and some have, but they were on death bed).

So now what do I do? I have 10 Gallons of DT old water. Frag tank is around 20 Gallons.

Do I make large water change and drop P drastically. Not sure if two Frags will be Happy. I have no idea.
I can't even put Frags into DT since that would also be a quick P Drop.

But maybe 1 P drop (no swinging) would be ok.
Why not try put in DT and see. I considered the Frag Tank Frags as lost.

Then clean up Frag tank for a Fresh Start.

For now I will Frag a small piece off the Large, Self Healing Frag and put into DT.

Wally.B · 09/11/2017, 10:03 PM

GOING TO FIND OUT.

I cut off a small piece of Frag Tank Frag, and placed it in DT.

Wonder what will happen.

Will be very interesting, if it stays alive and perks up, colors up. (Doubt it). (But you never know).

Wally.B · 09/12/2017, 12:15 AM

One more thing before I leave Tank Alone (PH Levels)

Not much I can do about PH. (Don't want to get into Kalk Dosing) Maybe get a re-calibrate probe again. I did not too long ago and PH still show below 8.

But a while ago when I added the outside AIR line to my Skimmer it was in the 8 to 8.1+ levels.

And then this spring it dropped (don't know why since Air Line is still connected).

Is this something I should look into, or no an issue. Leave it alone

reefmutt · 09/12/2017, 06:01 AM

That's quite a low ph swing but it doesn't really make sense. I suspect the probe is off.
Wally, why not try leaving the frags in the frag system alone, and not touch the frag system either?
Just continue doing what you've been doing, by exchanging waters and observe for a while? They are liking what you are doing now, don't change anything.
If the frags are healing and doing better, leave them, don't change anything. See what happens over a few months.
Also, the photos on this page are very good!
I like the borders (not orders!) and 3D detail as well!

Big E · 09/12/2017, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Wally, why not try leaving the frags in the frag system alone, and not touch the frag system either?
Just continue doing what you've been doing, by exchanging waters and observe for a while? They are liking what you are doing now, don't change anything.
If the frags are healing and doing better, leave them, don't change anything. See what happens over a few months.
Also, the photos on this page are very good!

Yup, observe daily, take pictures occasionally, do your maintenance and monitor alk. Most of all, enjoy the tank. Over analyzing can lead to pitfalls.

3-4 months down the road you'll be pleasently suprised on your success.

Wally.B · 09/12/2017, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reefmutt

..
Wally, why not try leaving the frags in the frag system alone, and not touch the frag system either?
Just continue doing what you've been doing, by exchanging waters and observe for a while? They are liking what you are doing now, don't change anything.
If the frags are healing and doing better, leave them, don't change anything. See what happens over a few months.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big E

Yup, observe daily, take pictures occasionally, do your maintenance and monitor alk. Most of all, enjoy the tank. Over analyzing can lead to pitfalls.

3-4 months down the road you'll be pleasently suprised on your success.

Had I not noticed the Frag Tank Frags healing so well after cuts, and doing P test, I would have just left it, since that is a future project on hold.

But I agree with both of you. Leave it a alone, (leave both alone). Something is much better in Frag tank than in DT.
Maybe lack of my hands (No Tinkering/Stability).

However it' might be a good idea to do a Triton Test water analysis on my DT.
Cheap compared to the cost of Frags I'm losing.

Or this new Fauna Water test analysis. http://bigshowfrags.com/labor-test-p...y-fauna-marin/

09/09/2017, 04:17 PM	#376
sensei Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 613	Wally, I believe that a 250W bulb has to be fired by a 250W ballast to be sure you have the correct spectrum. Instead of lowering the Watts in the ballast why don't you just higher the MH lamps and keep the ballast with right wattage to get less par in the tank and at the same time warranty the right spectrum?? highering the fixture will also give you more even light in dt. __________________ 470g DT SPS dominated (600g system) - five 400W MH, BK 250 & BK300 SM Skimmer 150g mixed reef - XR15w Pro, 90 g Coral quarantine - XR15w Pro, 150g FOWLR tank, 20g TTM Fish Qt

09/09/2017, 08:35 PM	#379
sensei Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 613	the bulb manufacturer may tell you that and bulbs do run, but is there sufficient evidence that people has had success with acropora using those bulbs running them at lower wattage?? will they give the proper spectrum for coloring and growing sps?? Also keep in mind is that every time you change wattage in your ballast you will also be changing the spectrum and corals will have to adjust to that spectrum and it could be that spectrum is not the right one for exciting the proteins and showing the right colors. This is my opinion regards __________________ 470g DT SPS dominated (600g system) - five 400W MH, BK 250 & BK300 SM Skimmer 150g mixed reef - XR15w Pro, 90 g Coral quarantine - XR15w Pro, 150g FOWLR tank, 20g TTM Fish Qt

09/10/2017, 01:49 PM	#388
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	Ice Fire Enchinata Acro (Frag) Reference Photo After seeing Matt post his Beautiful Ice Fire Colony yesterday, I hope this Frag survives. From reading about the Ice Fire Enchinata, they can be hit and miss. Some folks lose them in 2 weeks, others have lost many corals during crash but not this one. I believe from Reefmutt's comment that they grow slow, and if he says slow that must mean SLOW, since his other stuff has rocket packs. Tough photo to take on such a small young frag. It does have contrasting White with Blue tips. That is what caught my attention in GTAreef's tank. But in my lighting it's more all blue. T5 (Color Plus Lighting) At least it is showing some PE after being in my tank for a Over a Week (acclimatized at bottom). MH +T5 It was lower on Frag Rack, but no choice but to on Rock about 1.5" higher. Circulation in that spot is Medium, to Lower-High. Lighting will be on the Higher Side since Directly under MH bulb. Last edited by Wally.B; 09/10/2017 at 02:18 PM.

09/10/2017, 05:46 PM	#390
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	Any way to SAVE (RED PLANET) The last Red Planet I had did this. This time I put in Higher Lighting and Flow. Over last while the base was receeding. Few days ago I notice tiny white tip. Receeding at base and tips continues, so it is moved lower and back of tank since I can't watch it anymore. Is this it's way of bleaching Slowly? Can't be Alk Burn. It was a bit tilted before, and above picture show the side facing lights. The opposite side (Shown Below) had less light, and the receeding isn't as bad. (( TIPS NOT BURNT ON that side )) So if less light side is doing better, that is why I moved lower. Any suggestions to save it? Put very low? Last edited by Wally.B; 09/10/2017 at 06:14 PM.

09/10/2017, 11:10 PM	#391
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	Circulation Tune UP/FIX (GyreXF150 / CP24 ) Mis-Balance [Particulate TRAP] I'm been waiting for weeks for my tank to clear up from Particulate. (Was expecting Significant Clear up with SAND BED gone) Tank Clarity is important not just for lighting, but for allowing stronger circulation. Without blasting corals with debris. It's kept bothering me, that my corals look beaten up. Tank always Cloudy which was very noticeable with MH Lights on. Annoying. When I first threw in the New CP40 Gyre Type pump (ON RIGHT SIDE) to compliment the MaxSpect XF150 (ON LEFT SIDE), I just wanted it running for better circulation mix. TODAY, I took a closer look at my programming and flow. What I discovered is that the XF-150 is way more powerful than the CP-40 at LIKE-TO-LIKE Setting. I did look at the flow when I originally programmed things and there was some random mixing. I then added a few more flavours. However today after observation, I notice that with XF150 being so much more powerful, the tank Water Column, always rotated CLOCKWISE. And Futhermore the XF-150 Being on the same side as OVERFLOW, was pushing away MOST larger particulates away from Overflow Drain. As shown ABOVE, my particulates would rotate over and over again. And even worse, during lower circulation programming would setting on Rock and Corals. Only to be stired up again on next stronger Cycle. I wasn't cleaning my tank of Particulates, by sending them down the overflow and into sump. After playing with various power setting on both the CP-40 and XF-150, I found the sweet spot for BALANCE (50/100). With that discovery I found better random mixes. I then Programmed a variety of Balanced Mixes. BUT THE GREATEST improvement was programming a mode when the Tank Cirulated Counter Clockwise. And with the XF-150 Off, "MUCH MORE PARTICULATE" was going down the overflow. I also learned from all this playing that I could find much better flow patterns, NONE of which were TOO STRONG LAMINAR FLOWS, directly hitting Coral (All reflected and broken up Currents). -> My unique Setup with More Powerful Gyre Located Next to Overflow was the BIGGEST problem. -> No programming to allow particulates down return. -> Small tank is tight for circulation so random flow is more difficult -> Mis-Balanced Pumps didn't help. -> Corals at top (where most are) were being continuously irritated. I noticed those secluded were doing better. -> This improvement also allows me to run more Gentler, but effective (Particulate Cleanup), flow overnight as well. I simply can't see how a tank of Endless, increasing debris could be good for SPS!! We'll see if tank clears up and I see less Particulate Blasted Corals This may solve my lighting problem, since "There Is No Lighting Problem" Hoping this also saves my Red Planet -> Since Looking at it damaged much more on one side, couldn't have been just light. -> PLUS!!! The base recession pattern looks like circulation blast (Seen in First Photo). ------> That is not vertical Light Damage or else it would have been a circular ring. It's a V-Shape around Stem (Flow deflected off stem). ------> That damage happened when I put Red Planet Higher originally for more light. BUT!! Also Closer to XF-150 Stronger Flow (And particulates). -> Why are two tips not showing burnt tips? (They were facing the side with less laminar Flow). Last edited by Wally.B; 09/10/2017 at 11:59 PM.

09/10/2017, 12:06 AM	#380
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	Jorge, Is it a good opinion, and makes perfect sense. Stability for Successful SPS means Everything, including Light Spectrum over Long Period (The Sun may get Shaded by Clouds certain days, but when it shines Bright on the Corals it's the same Spectrum). You convinced me. Going back to 250W but will raise light 1.5" (just for a week, and then go back to the proper PARS I measured.)

09/10/2017, 12:20 AM	#381
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	Water Tests (Not what I expected) But Nothing Scary Full test with Frags in place, and back to Work on Monday. Summer Break is over. ALK=7.5 CALC=440 MAG=1450 N < 25 P=0.12 Weird. I am no longer dosing MAG, but it's on the higher side. Must be T.M.P. salt more frequent water changes. P has started to Rise. Wonder why? GFO exhausted, will test, but won't refresh since want Scrubber to take over for both N & P. I need to re-calibrate my PH probe. All summer my PH is just below 8.0. I am still running outside AIR to Skimmer (That kept my PH around 8.2 during winter). Could summer air have less oxygen?

09/10/2017, 08:14 AM	#384
FLSharkvic Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: FLORIDA Posts: 65	What kind of Rock are you using?

09/10/2017, 03:34 PM	#389
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	Interesting Observation (Scrubber Running) Skimmage Change Before I even notice my Scrubber shutting down, I was noticing that my Skimmer was running different. All summer it was skimming much thicker and it puzzled me. And now right after Scrubber started growing Algae (it is speeding up even more now), the Skimmer is more like before. Clear, thinner liquid. Absolutely no change to Skimmer Setting. Interesting. I now have an indicator should scrubber shut down next time.

09/11/2017, 09:59 AM	#392
reefmutt Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Mtl. Canada Posts: 7,824	Nice flow adjustments! I agree with Jorge about the gfo.. with your n and p levels, you really shouldn't be overly concerned about p. Just leave it alone and leave the gfo off. Watch the scrubber.. I've had p upwards of .2 for very long periods of time and although colour wasn't special, the corals were fine. The gfo is yoyoing the p. Corals don't like that. Personally, I think steady high levels of p are better than levels fluctuating in and out of a good range. You have parameters relatively stable.. mag isn't too bad and in my experience takes a long time to change. Don't worry about it. Raise the 250ws and leave them in place.. leave photoperiod and par alone, now. Seems pretty good to me.. Nutrients- don't touch them- let the scrubber work or not but don't intervene for several months. I think your chop and hide technique for poor performers is a good idea, too. Just observe for a while, no interventions- unless the tank is leaking or something! There really isn't a contingency where it is life or death to run gfo.. no need to have it at the ready, I don't think. __________________ Matt. Current Tank Info: 53x32.5x26 190g dt 60g of sumps 3 tank-100 gal frag system 6xAI prime 8xt5. 4x maxspect gyre. Skimz Dual internal sicce pump skimmer Deltec PF601s ca rx+Kalk stirrer

09/11/2017, 09:16 PM	#395
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	FRAG TANK (Water Tests) WOW! ALK=7.7 (Same at DT) CALC=440 (Same as DT) N=5-10 (Less than DT) P=0.44 (MUCH HIGHER than DT) So my interpretation is this. Alk is the same since 2 tiny Frags are not consuming Alk. Calc same as above N is lower since there is live Rock/Bacteria and it's consuming some of N. No fish. No Fish Feeding. But there is light Coral Feeding. P is a puzzle. Has it sky rocketed with the Coral Feeding. But nothing to export Phosphates? If P swing is bad for Corals, then every piece I put in Frag Tank from DT die should instantly (and some have, but they were on death bed). So now what do I do? I have 10 Gallons of DT old water. Frag tank is around 20 Gallons. Do I make large water change and drop P drastically. Not sure if two Frags will be Happy. I have no idea. I can't even put Frags into DT since that would also be a quick P Drop. But maybe 1 P drop (no swinging) would be ok. Why not try put in DT and see. I considered the Frag Tank Frags as lost. Then clean up Frag tank for a Fresh Start. For now I will Frag a small piece off the Large, Self Healing Frag and put into DT. Last edited by Wally.B; 09/11/2017 at 09:28 PM.

09/11/2017, 10:03 PM	#396
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	GOING TO FIND OUT. I cut off a small piece of Frag Tank Frag, and placed it in DT. Wonder what will happen. Will be very interesting, if it stays alive and perks up, colors up. (Doubt it). (But you never know).

09/12/2017, 12:15 AM	#397
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	One more thing before I leave Tank Alone (PH Levels) Not much I can do about PH. (Don't want to get into Kalk Dosing) Maybe get a re-calibrate probe again. I did not too long ago and PH still show below 8. But a while ago when I added the outside AIR line to my Skimmer it was in the 8 to 8.1+ levels. And then this spring it dropped (don't know why since Air Line is still connected). Is this something I should look into, or no an issue. Leave it alone

09/12/2017, 06:01 AM	#398
reefmutt Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Mtl. Canada Posts: 7,824	That's quite a low ph swing but it doesn't really make sense. I suspect the probe is off. Wally, why not try leaving the frags in the frag system alone, and not touch the frag system either? Just continue doing what you've been doing, by exchanging waters and observe for a while? They are liking what you are doing now, don't change anything. If the frags are healing and doing better, leave them, don't change anything. See what happens over a few months. Also, the photos on this page are very good! I like the borders (not orders!) and 3D detail as well! __________________ Matt. Current Tank Info: 53x32.5x26 190g dt 60g of sumps 3 tank-100 gal frag system 6xAI prime 8xt5. 4x maxspect gyre. Skimz Dual internal sicce pump skimmer Deltec PF601s ca rx+Kalk stirrer Last edited by reefmutt; 09/12/2017 at 06:53 AM.