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07/17/2016, 11:11 AM | #3926 |
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Steam may be a caution yes I agree. Where I was exposed to it I noticed a bit of a runny nose; the water was boiled mainly out in the open so I didn't become over exposed to it, most went to atmosphere which I must advise to do.
The way I did it was used an old catering boiler. I targeted the sand bed only, I Syphoned the brown fluffy mull that was found under the sand. The 25 litre tub was filled,and emptied into the boiler where I heated it until near boiling point. (I had to bypass the thermostat underneath to do this) which is a two minute job. Once I had it boiling, the brown die off from the dino scum raised up to the surface, I used a cup which I gently submerged to skim off the stuff I didn't want back in my tank. I used a small pump and a length of hose to create a trickle over a peice of glass fronted by a office fan just in front to quickly cool off the water back to 26 degrees. Once cooked I'd then add this back to the tank. I repeated this every evening for a week of so, the water become clear after about 4 days.. And the slime just disappeared.. You can avoid the cooling process if you do a waterchange first.. Obviously Keep the old water, this would allow a batch in hand to start (where you can boil the 1st one, then let it cool in its own time. ) The following night boil the 2nd, but then replace the 1st batch which would have already been cooled from the night before. This would ease the workload - which I only thought about after I'd done mine.. Hope it's of help to someone.. |
07/17/2016, 11:21 AM | #3927 |
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Please don't just suggest to boil or bake or cook anything from inside the tank with out explicit instructions and extreme caution.
People have landed in the hospital doing such things. I would highly suggest against it for most everyone with out very special protocols put into place. And just soaking in bleach is much safer yet still has its own risks.
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07/17/2016, 12:02 PM | #3928 |
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I just have suggested caution above.. I have also stated a runny nose.. It could have been hay fever.. But I'd rather suggest the boiling to avoid mis guidance.
I think if I was going to die, I'd have done that about 8 months ago.. I never knew what dinos was when I was first aquatinted with them.. My hand was in the tank more than out, if there was going to ever going to be a complication it would have no doubt, been then..! Syphoning water, cuts on my hands (etc) it's had plenty of chances to have got me.. I'm giving a solution to Dinoflagelletes, should you wish to take it.. As above.. Do so taking the required precautions.. Do it outside.. Put a lid on the boiler.. Let it cool in its own time.. Obvoiusley don't breath it in.. |
07/17/2016, 12:08 PM | #3929 | |
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Quote:
You have been lucky. There are many different types of dinos each with various types of toxins. Some could be benign like unique sterols, some more harmful like DSP, and some even more deadly like PSP or palytoxins. Again, I personally do not suggest this method for most everyone.
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07/17/2016, 12:12 PM | #3930 |
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Soaking in bleach would be safer and just as effective if not more so. Boiling would leave behind lots of organics to decay.
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07/17/2016, 12:59 PM | #3931 | |
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I have a full tank full of sps coral and fish, I assume your conclusion would be to close the tank down and do this externally? You moot a worrying scenario, it eeks me to say this, but what happens if these paly toxins are in your tank and you don't understand what they are (being novice) and what your actually messing with. I've heard about them affecting people off zoas, but nothing like your suggesting with regards to dinoflagellates?? It surprises me also that there a no 'sticky' tabs in the beginners section of these forums warning the hobbyist of such compromises. Most reefers like myself will no doubt just tackle them.. Like I have done. In order to get a result.. Just whilst we are discussing, what's the difference in killing them in the tank via the experiments and dosages with chemicals, any die off is actually in your tank which in theory is evaporating as moisture into the air of your room. Is there any difference..? |
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07/17/2016, 01:10 PM | #3932 |
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I wouldn't suggest doing either. But using a diatom filter that filters to 1 micron would be better IMO. Dinos are generally 10 microns and bigger.
In the past I'll doing a periodic typhoon in the tank and use a vortex diatom xl filter ala PaulB. This has probably been a factor in keeping the diatom population unnoticed in my tank. Evaporation is a much slower process and not nearly as violent as boiling creating steam. But risk is possible.
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07/17/2016, 01:33 PM | #3933 |
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I agree that bleaching is a lot safer than boiling, and should be a lot more effective. You could treat the water with a neutralizing agent, like sodium thiosulfate or Amquel, or just let it sit with a pump in it for a few days, at most.
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07/17/2016, 06:46 PM | #3934 |
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guys I don't know if this is useful here or not, but I want to offer this just in case it relates in SOME way to what is going on here in the thread. I want to eradicate this stuff from our hobby tanks just as much as anyone.
So.. I, like many, have been fighting dinos. I even took out my sand bed in my sps tank. It was still hanging on to the live rock though. its a tough battle, we all know that. in an unrelated decision I decided to try the new KZ color system (its a 4 part thing)... ummm.. my rocks are CLEAN of ANY dinos... I don't know if it is related to what is being studied here or not, or if it is simply by chance, but a few weeks of dosing according to many suggestion and the dines are gone from the rocks. Again, I'm sorry if it is a different direction of the thread, but I wanted to post just in case it may strike a thought with someone. Best to you all. Brandon
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07/17/2016, 08:39 PM | #3935 |
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Not necessarily. Part of the common theme for fighting dinos is that competition from other creatures can impact dino populations.
If an additive drives the competing bacteria, coral, algae, pods, or any other protists to thrive, then they can bring the tank back in balance.
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07/17/2016, 09:57 PM | #3936 |
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Corals out competing. Or the dinos inside the corals are out competing along with other microfauna is a possibility.
But also, Snowmansnow, are you going by visual look of your tank to determine you have no more dinos? If I look at my tank right now I would say I have 0 dinos and metronidazole wiped them out. But looking under the microscope tells a different story and that they are still there just that their population has been reduced greatly.
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07/21/2016, 03:33 AM | #3937 |
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I've got these small (1/4" or 5mm) gray starfish that seek out the densest dinoflagellate mats on the sand and stay there. I can't see any drastic changes, but here is one lifeform that likes to play with dinos.
After weeks of epic cyano bloom the tank cleared up leaving the sand almost dino free. That did not last long so it's back to business as usual, but with a twist this time since a star has showed up. |
07/22/2016, 08:10 AM | #3938 |
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A friends tank with almost undetectable amounts of ostis suffered a bleaching event and a portion of the the corals died. Now the dinos are obvious?
I'm still looking for a small tank owner willing to go the other way. |
07/22/2016, 02:05 PM | #3939 |
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Three month ago I got 16oz AlgaGen ReefPods Tisbe to combat Ostis bloom, while it worked for a certain extend but the pods diminished overtime because there was nothing for them to sustain their lives in my zeo driven tank. Now my phosphate is measured 0.00 using UL Hanna checker, the dino has made come back in full force.
Just ordered 5280 Pods contains from algaebarn.com which claimed to contain live Tigriopus, Tisbe, and Apocyclops Copepods in a mix. once arrived, will dump the whole thing to my 100 gal reef and see them go wild after Ostis, then I came across a report stating that toxin release from dino would eventually immobilize pods render their effectiveness in combating an out break. What should I do at this point? https://algaebarn.com/product/5280pods/ |
07/31/2016, 07:40 PM | #3940 |
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Here is what it looks like when I use chemiclean - in case anyone can make sense of it
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07/31/2016, 07:51 PM | #3941 | |
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07/31/2016, 08:04 PM | #3942 |
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ChemiClean usually causes foaming. I'm not sure exactly what is affecting the surface tension or otherwise causing the bubbles, but there might just be a lot of amphipathic compounds released from the dying organisms.
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08/03/2016, 12:11 PM | #3943 |
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Looks like I'm in the same boat as DNA - the Dinos came back for me.
I had let the tank get a bit dirty - so Cyano, bubble and green hair algae took the dino's place. After weekly water changes and wet skimming for a month - the cyano and green hair algae went away and the Dino's made a comeback. Turned off the skimmer for 6 days now and no water changes for 11 days - I'll see if I can beat them back again. Trying lights out (instead of blackout) this time around too.
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08/03/2016, 12:39 PM | #3944 |
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Buy a boiler, and nuke them.. I don't know why people waste their time and effort blacking out etc) when I've got you a successful a tried a and tested method of eradication...
You'll not beat these by a gently, gently approach.. If I can caveat my comments by saying do it outside in the garden where steam can dissipate. Don't breathe steam.. And then get back to enjoying your tank again.. |
08/15/2016, 10:14 AM | #3945 |
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I got a number of SPS frags 3 weeks ago. They clearly got shocked from the water quality in my tank and have been heading south since. I prepared the tank well before to no avail.
Does anyone know of a reefer with ostis or any other identified dinos that is doing really well with SPS corals? In my experiance your SPS dreams will not come true if you have Ostreopsis in visible numbers. |
08/15/2016, 11:16 AM | #3946 |
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Since boiling the water, there has been no clear evidence or signs of their presence within the main water column all the typical slime etc has gone completely, I do however keep suffering with a localised issue to the tips of some Acropora a kind of burning.. Similar to the symptoms of of Dinoflagelletes where they attach and glupe up the snotty strings to the end.. I have no real way of making the identification all I know is I get what looks like tissue erosion then after a few weeks it slowly eats down the coral turning the skeleton brown as it goes.
I don't think anyone with dinos keeps anything successfully, it's all a matter of time before each one dies. Anyone have an idea what the brown tips are caused by..? |
08/15/2016, 11:54 AM | #3947 | |
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Quote:
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.................................................. Current Tank Info: 210 Gallon "Mixed Reef" Tank (84 inches wide) |
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08/15/2016, 01:38 PM | #3948 |
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I take on board your comments and Im sure many will agree with you, personally 8 month I spent fighting them day in day out become impractical to me...!
If I'd have known what I know now, my frags would now be colonies.. But hey, we all love hindsight..it's a wonderful thing..! |
08/16/2016, 11:42 PM | #3949 |
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people have been experimenting with bleach method after the metroplex failure, just google dinoflagellae and metroplex you will find the formula to use. It's easy and quick way to get rid of dino with minimum effect on the inhabitants.
The formula is 0.003/x% of chlorine=mL of bleach/gal. DNA my dino practically work from the tips of acro's tips then eventually engulf the whole colony til RTN, |
08/17/2016, 03:15 AM | #3950 |
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Are you referring to a snot that forms with bubbles, or just the progressive destruction of the tissue around each tip?
I only ask because I no longer have any snot like symptoms, but I get a brown algea that forms once tissue is damaged appears to be working its way down. Can't quite determine if it's dino in small populations or nutrient issues.. |
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