Reef Central Online Community

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > Marine Fish Forums > Fish Disease Treatment
Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Unread 02/23/2018, 09:43 PM   #26
lagatbezan
Registered Member
 
lagatbezan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,109
Sorry for the loss. Yes flukes unfortunately can kill within that time frame; same with other parasites like velvet and ich which is why it's best to always do a full qt before anything goes into your display.
If the display is empty now (fishless) I would suggest keeping it that way for a minimum of 76 days and then start with some easier fish to start with.
Also dip acclimation is the worst thing you can do specially when getting a fish that has spend some time in a closed bag. What happens is as soon as you open the bag up and expose it to air, the ph changes causing an ammonia spike in the bag which is deadly. you want to get the fish out of the bag and the water it was in as soon as the bag is opened generally within less then 30 min. Do a temp acclimation by floating the unopened bag in the tank water for a while and then open the bag, check salinity, adjust qt if needed and transfer the fish.
I do a 50min formalin bath for all new arrivals, followed by 2 weeks of ttm or 30 days of cp ( depending on the type of fish) and then 2-3 weeks of observation. I do at least 2 rounds of prazipro 5-7 days apart as well. No furan2 or other antibiotics unless I see signs of infections. Recently there have been an increasing number of prazipro resistant flukes so keep that in mind. Might have to use hypo or couple of formalin baths to resolve it which is why it's always best to observe a couple of extra weeks after any treatments in qt.


__________________
Ryan.
300g with velocity t4 for return and a Reflo dart on a closed loop, T5 lights & SRO3000 skimmer.

Current Tank Info: 300g
lagatbezan is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/23/2018, 10:04 PM   #27
Mryin
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Alabama
Posts: 57
I totally agree with easier fish comment! Salt is so much harder than fresh kinda miss my discus

Couple of questions.....
1. Any name brands recommended on the formalin and cp?
2. Are there any books or research material that explain the different kinds of saltwater fish diseases and treatment other than RC of course


Mryin is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/23/2018, 10:37 PM   #28
lagatbezan
Registered Member
 
lagatbezan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,109
Fishvet has 37% formalin which is the one I use. Wear gloves when using it and in a well ventilated place and make sure you oxygenate the bath fully before and during with an airstone.
Cp is chloroquine phosphate. You need a prescription from a vet for it and you get it filled from diamondback_com. Do not buy from eBay or other unknown sources since the quality and purity is not guaranteed. If you can get it it's awesome. It will treat ich, velvet, brook and uronema. You treat the qt once at 40-60mg/g and that's it. 30 day treatment is sufficient and then observe for a couple of weeks. Adjust for water changes of course.
There are lots of great stickies and posts here which covers almost everything but if you need any others google is your best friend or just ask. A lot of us here more than happy to help


__________________
Ryan.
300g with velocity t4 for return and a Reflo dart on a closed loop, T5 lights & SRO3000 skimmer.

Current Tank Info: 300g

Last edited by lagatbezan; 02/23/2018 at 10:43 PM.
lagatbezan is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/24/2018, 02:51 AM   #29
Louis Z
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Montgomery
Posts: 1,257
Tangs are very iffy . I have to see the tang in person and over a period of time before I purchase . Are they eating and not hiding , are they grazing , does their upper body look full or sunken in , does the stomach area look ok or is it sunken in . I have had bad experiences . Although I can’t speak for everyone someone may say they never have a problem . Look at the other tanks tied in to the system . Are there sick fish in them. Can you identify the illness because more than likely they will have those parasites . So be ready to treat right away if you decide to purchase . IMO some tangs have a hi metabolic rate and are difficult to keep weight on during illness , treatment and or shipping . I have purchased tangs knowing the parasite but they look like they were eating and looked as if they could withstand the qt/ht and treatment . I second the idea of blacking out the sides of the tank . Fish to me seem less frightened in those tanks . I use holey rock for making caves and when finished I soak in FW and then dry until further needed, if I ttm then I use the next set of holey rock . I also have a bag of media already cultured with bacteria that I slip into the tank along with a bag of zeolite . I have a whole set of bags ready to go to be used when qt after they have gone thru TTM


Louis Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/24/2018, 07:19 AM   #30
Mryin
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Alabama
Posts: 57
Thank you everyone for the responses. I think I have a better idea on future fishies! I did scan through the stickies and there was a lot of good info there. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks again


Mryin is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/24/2018, 07:53 AM   #31
Mryin
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Alabama
Posts: 57
You more question and I promise this is it.....sense I didn’t QT and there is a possibility of a parasite in the DT, should run something in the DT. The only filtration I use is a skimmer. I have a ton of HOB Aquaclears from discus breeding that are clean and not used. Should I run carbon or anything in them on the DT?


Mryin is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/24/2018, 11:33 AM   #32
lagatbezan
Registered Member
 
lagatbezan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,109
Carbon will not do anything for any parasites that might be in your display. Best bet would be to run the tank fishless for a minimum of 76 days. This will eliminate the lifecycle of most parasites like ich, velvet and flukes.


__________________
Ryan.
300g with velocity t4 for return and a Reflo dart on a closed loop, T5 lights & SRO3000 skimmer.

Current Tank Info: 300g
lagatbezan is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/24/2018, 04:37 PM   #33
Mryin
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Alabama
Posts: 57
Ok will do. Thanks RC


Mryin is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/25/2018, 01:48 AM   #34
Tastee
Registered Member
 
Tastee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 277
Drip acclimate question

Quote:
Originally Posted by lagatbezan View Post
Sorry for the loss. Yes flukes unfortunately can kill within that time frame; same with other parasites like velvet and ich which is why it's best to always do a full qt before anything goes into your display.
If the display is empty now (fishless) I would suggest keeping it that way for a minimum of 76 days and then start with some easier fish to start with.
Also dip acclimation is the worst thing you can do specially when getting a fish that has spend some time in a closed bag. What happens is as soon as you open the bag up and expose it to air, the ph changes causing an ammonia spike in the bag which is deadly. you want to get the fish out of the bag and the water it was in as soon as the bag is opened generally within less then 30 min. Do a temp acclimation by floating the unopened bag in the tank water for a while and then open the bag, check salinity, adjust qt if needed and transfer the fish.
I do a 50min formalin bath for all new arrivals, followed by 2 weeks of ttm or 30 days of cp ( depending on the type of fish) and then 2-3 weeks of observation. I do at least 2 rounds of prazipro 5-7 days apart as well. No furan2 or other antibiotics unless I see signs of infections. Recently there have been an increasing number of prazipro resistant flukes so keep that in mind. Might have to use hypo or couple of formalin baths to resolve it which is why it's always best to observe a couple of extra weeks after any treatments in qt.
Hi, apologies if I am hijacking this thread but I am interested in the comments above about drip acclimation. I am a new reefer with a 65g tank (53g display, 12g sump) and a 9g QT. Currently stocked with 2x Clowns, 2x Fire Gobys, 1x Bluestreak cleaner wrasse, 1x Yellow Tang, 1x Hermit crab, 1x Coral Banded Shrimp, 4 corals + hitchhikers. Parameters are 1.024 salinity, 0 ppm Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates, 0.25 ppm Phosphate, 1450 Mg, 450 Ca, 9.8 kH, 8.4 pH. QT is the same but at 1.020 salinity, and at times traces of Ammonia and Nitrates (but nothing > 0.5 ppm).

My fish and corals are purchased from the LFS. They are in the bag 20 mins generally before I get them home. My approach is to float and open the bag immediately, wait 15 mins then drip acclimate for about 90 mins. I try to replace at least 50% of original water during this process. Fish go into the QT, inverts and corals straight into the DT. After drip acclimating the animals are removed from the water and introduced to the QT or DT. For those that go into the QT, after their time I again temp and drip acclimate (using a large jug) into the DT and again only transfer the animals not any water. I am going to use a Coral RX dip in future but haven’t done so to date.

All fish have transferred well and are doing fine. I recently introduced 2 Coral Banded Shrimps, but they fought in the bag and although both went into the DT only one survived. I suspect they were not a mated pair and were just tolerating each other in the LFS tank and the 90 mins in the bag was too much for them.

What do you think about my approach to introducing animals into the QT/DT?

Please note I am in Australia so don’t have access to some of the treatments you are mentioning due to bio-security laws (e.g. no antibiotics).

Thanks in advance!


Tastee is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02/25/2018, 03:20 AM   #35
Louis Z
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Montgomery
Posts: 1,257
Short trips to and from the LFS and the house shouldn’t have a big impact , those fish that travel days to get to you maybe more of the problem since they excrete in a small amt of bag water and increase the ammonia level . But I have to admit to never testing the water on short trips . Fighting in the bag has happened to me before , I always request individual bags from the LFS. I also see a problem of corals going straight into the DT . They should be qt and dipped also with observation time . I had an issue recently in which I ordered frogspawn and hammercoral and some torches . I had one qt tank and they all went in together from the same online vendor . One of the hammers were closed when I put it in and overnight it started deteriorate on one of the heads . Well I wish I had separate tanks for each one because one by one they all started to deteriorate even after I water changed and separated each one . Couldn’t stop them from dying and lost the whole batch . I may have prevented them from falling like dominoes if I had separated from the beginning . The others looked fine and took time to melt . Lesson learned . You are taking a chance with your established colonies . To many coral and fish parasites can come in with the coral or its water from the LFS


Louis Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:03 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2022
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.