DIY Wavebox Tutorial from start to finish! - Page 4

suphew · 07/10/2008, 01:06 AM

I've just started building one of these and notice the parts list has capacitor C2 listed as 1uF but your schematic has it has 10uF, which is the correct one? Or even just the required period would be fine, with those two the options its either about 0.14-3.5 sec or 1.4-35 sec

xtm · 07/10/2008, 09:58 AM

you're right, I didn't notice that

I have to double check when I get home but you need to go for the fastest switch (0.14-3.5?)

fish lad · 07/10/2008, 10:43 AM

please be 1uF as thats what i have just soldered in

no worries though, i gotta go back to the store as i forgot the 0.1uF cap

EnderG60 · 07/10/2008, 11:55 AM

Pretty good guess since you will need faster then 1sec timing to get a good wave on most tanks.

Deuce67 · 07/10/2008, 03:06 PM

Its 10 uf and not 1. Thats how mine is right now.

xtm · 07/10/2008, 04:40 PM

so people are actually building this project and no one has said anything about the discrepancy besides suphew?

Anyhow, I would like to get some comment from people who have built this unit, so we can continue to improve this prototype.

- Did it work the first time?
- Did you have any issues with it?
- What features would you want me to add?

thanks

suphew · 07/10/2008, 06:39 PM

Quote:

What features would you want me to add?

Adding the LED to the schematic would save having to look it up.

Also a feed or on/off switch would be good. My stream controllers are mounted out of the way at the back of the sump because I wasn't expecting to need regular access to them.

I just did the calculations again (don't know why I didn't keep them from last time) the 10uF cap definitely the one needed if the faster cycle time is the one.

BTW thanks for all the quick responses, nothing worse than getting into a project and getting stopped mid stride.

fish lad · 07/11/2008, 06:06 AM

i have added a on off switch inline with pin 1 (output)

and i put a LED in series with pic 3 of the IC

i do not know if it is working yet though as i need to go and get a 10uf ans 0.1uf cap

if it makes any difference i am in the uk using a uk model (6000)

suphew · 07/11/2008, 04:59 PM

I put my switch in pin 5 to cut power to the whole unit rather than just cut the output. Not sure what affect it has on the 555 if the output isn't connected to anything.

I think the LED should go between pin 3 of the 555 and earth (in series with a 1k resister)

A.T.T.R · 07/11/2008, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by xtm

I need to get ahold of these Koralias and study them... maybe we can try to build a controller for it.. but I would assume it goes something like this:

AC > Step down transformer > bridge rectifier > PWM > [DC] >inverter > Koralia.

If all you can do with a Koralia is alter the AC freq. to change the speed, couple that with the brakes I mentioned above then you won't be able to do much with these pumps. [/B]

sigh one more project never finished
AC powerhead controller...
now that i cut my hours to 3 days a week i will FINALY have time

(multiday simulation on pic chip that was to run the whole thing)

hypertech · 07/19/2008, 08:17 AM

What do you connect the other end of the 500k pot to?

xtm · 07/19/2008, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by hypertech
What do you connect the other end of the 500k pot to?

NC - no connection

Harley Fish · 07/19/2008, 02:17 PM

wow your wave maker is exelent!!

Do you change the settings every now and again to give the fish a change??

h.fish.

suphew · 07/19/2008, 07:56 PM

I don't think you can, you have to tune the wave to the resonant frequency of the tank. I think it is possible to get double waves if your tank is long enough.

Speaking of which does anyone know who to calculate the resonant frequency? The must be a formular for it

HighlandReef · 07/19/2008, 09:27 PM

nice thread!

Avast Marine · 07/20/2008, 08:08 AM

It looks like the bottom of your box is solid? Isn't the bottom of the wavebox slotted?

xtm · 07/20/2008, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by dandy7200
It looks like the bottom of your box is solid? Isn't the bottom of the wavebox slotted?

The bottom of the box is solid.

black_kapre · 07/20/2008, 09:13 PM

dude is it possible to get a look at what the back of the circuit board and also what is the plug that connects to the tonza controller called...........im going to be makeing one for my 60gal cube........with external overflow..........so im thinking of makeing the box for the wavebox outside the tank as well......6055 is the perpect one right......

hypertech · 07/21/2008, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by xtm
NC - no connection

I'm pretty good at circuit analysis and something doesn't make sense.

If the other end of the pot is a no connect, then there is no current flowing through it and it isn't doing anything for you. If you have a three terminal pot, then you only need to use 2 of the terminals but that isn't what the drawing is showing.

Aside from not actually doing anything for you, you would be susceptible to errant operation based on electrical noise.

So, maybe something just isn't making any sense to me, but are you saying that you are connecting only one wire to the pot? Are you sure you aren't grounding one of the other terminals?

Deuce67 · 07/21/2008, 03:35 PM

The other end of my pot hits a 10uf cap then to ground.

Edit* Seems like XTMs diagram is different from mine

xtm · 07/21/2008, 04:00 PM

If the other end of the pot is a no connect, then there is no current flowing through it and it isn't doing anything for you.

current flows from one of the "side legs" to the "middle leg". If you've opened up a pot, you will see the carbon thingy that looks like a rainbow. That "rainbow" has varying resistance. The position of the plate on that "rainbow" that is connected to the middle leg determines the resistance. Anyways I'm sure you know how that works. A 3-terminal pot can work with only 2 terminals connected.

Aside from not actually doing anything for you, you would be susceptible to errant operation based on electrical noise.

The only noise I keep hearing is the sloshing waves on the eurobrace

So, maybe something just isn't making any sense to me, but are you saying that you are connecting only one wire to the pot?

no... look at the diagram. There are two wires connected. One on the side leg and the other one on the middle leg.

Are you sure you aren't grounding one of the other terminals?

not sure if I understand your question... why would you ground the other terminal? and where would you ground it?

hypertech · 07/21/2008, 06:18 PM

Is the 20k resistor (R2) in series with the pot? Are you trying to show a connection to the wiper with that triangle? If so, what you are saying makes some sense.

I assumed that was a ground connection since a triangle is conventionally a connection to ground.

xtm · 07/21/2008, 06:24 PM

ahhhhhhh now I see what you're saying. The resistor symbol with a "ground" is a symbol for a variable resistor. (potentiometer)

hope that helps

zibba · 07/21/2008, 11:17 PM

xtm - pm sent.

zibba · 07/22/2008, 08:24 AM

I won't be picking up the 6100's for this project until later this week, but I've already picked up some black acrylic and weldon. I have yet to make the trip to Radio Shack as we're is still trying to understand your diagram and work out any potential glitches along the way.

My first question is about the cord running from the circuit board into the 5-pin tunze driver. Were you able to find this cord at an online store or is this also something that is available at Radio Shack or is it the one that comes with the driver? If it's the one that comes with the driver, is it easy to fix if I decided to scratch the project and just hook it up to an aquasurf?

Second question, it looks like you've replaced the shroud on your 6100 with the shroud of a 6200. The slots appear to be larger than other 6100's I've seen. Is this necessary for the wavebox?

Third question. What dremel bit were you using for cutting the acrylic? I'm new to acrylic and don't want to see a good project go bad because I grabbed the wrong cutting bit.

Fourth question. Should the 6100 be as low as possible in the wavebox or would you recommend leaving a little space underneath? I'm trying to plan where exactly to cut the outlet hole for the tunze.

Ok, that's all I have for now. I'm sure more issues will come up as we work through this project. With your help and if it's alright with you, I'd like to post pictures of some of our progress in your thread to help others out. You've done a great job describing the entire process, but with more people chiming in about their builds, perhaps we can spark even more interest.

Hope you agree and looking forward to hearing your response.

Cheers,
- Z

07/10/2008, 09:58 AM	#77
xtm Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Panorama City, CA Posts: 4,703	you're right, I didn't notice that I have to double check when I get home but you need to go for the fastest switch (0.14-3.5?) __________________ Function before fashion Current Tank Info: 120g SPS Tank (48x24x24)

07/10/2008, 04:40 PM	#81
xtm Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Panorama City, CA Posts: 4,703	so people are actually building this project and no one has said anything about the discrepancy besides suphew? Anyhow, I would like to get some comment from people who have built this unit, so we can continue to improve this prototype. - Did it work the first time? - Did you have any issues with it? - What features would you want me to add? thanks __________________ Function before fashion Current Tank Info: 120g SPS Tank (48x24x24)

07/19/2008, 02:17 PM	#88
Harley Fish Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Northen hemispere Posts: 119	wow your wave maker is exelent!! Do you change the settings every now and again to give the fish a change?? h.fish. __________________ Remember to take your fish for regular walks! Also wash and bake your live rock before use! Current Tank Info: 55 litre reef/ 30 gallon tropical

07/20/2008, 08:08 AM	#91
Avast Marine RC Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Northern VA Posts: 2,446	It looks like the bottom of your box is solid? Isn't the bottom of the wavebox slotted? __________________ Dan Don't rush art, you get bad art.

07/21/2008, 04:00 PM	#96
xtm Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Panorama City, CA Posts: 4,703	If the other end of the pot is a no connect, then there is no current flowing through it and it isn't doing anything for you. current flows from one of the "side legs" to the "middle leg". If you've opened up a pot, you will see the carbon thingy that looks like a rainbow. That "rainbow" has varying resistance. The position of the plate on that "rainbow" that is connected to the middle leg determines the resistance. Anyways I'm sure you know how that works. A 3-terminal pot can work with only 2 terminals connected. Aside from not actually doing anything for you, you would be susceptible to errant operation based on electrical noise. The only noise I keep hearing is the sloshing waves on the eurobrace So, maybe something just isn't making any sense to me, but are you saying that you are connecting only one wire to the pot? no... look at the diagram. There are two wires connected. One on the side leg and the other one on the middle leg. Are you sure you aren't grounding one of the other terminals? not sure if I understand your question... why would you ground the other terminal? and where would you ground it? __________________ Function before fashion Current Tank Info: 120g SPS Tank (48x24x24)

07/10/2008, 01:06 AM	#76
suphew Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Posts: 106	I've just started building one of these and notice the parts list has capacitor C2 listed as 1uF but your schematic has it has 10uF, which is the correct one? Or even just the required period would be fine, with those two the options its either about 0.14-3.5 sec or 1.4-35 sec

07/10/2008, 10:43 AM	#78
fish lad Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: UK, bath Posts: 236	please be 1uF as thats what i have just soldered in no worries though, i gotta go back to the store as i forgot the 0.1uF cap

07/10/2008, 11:55 AM	#79
EnderG60 Plumbing Engineer Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Atlanta GA Posts: 3,260	Pretty good guess since you will need faster then 1sec timing to get a good wave on most tanks.

07/10/2008, 03:06 PM	#80
Deuce67 Registered Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: CO Posts: 3,750	Its 10 uf and not 1. Thats how mine is right now.

07/11/2008, 06:06 AM	#83
fish lad Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: UK, bath Posts: 236	i have added a on off switch inline with pin 1 (output) and i put a LED in series with pic 3 of the IC i do not know if it is working yet though as i need to go and get a 10uf ans 0.1uf cap if it makes any difference i am in the uk using a uk model (6000)

07/11/2008, 04:59 PM	#84
suphew Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Posts: 106	I put my switch in pin 5 to cut power to the whole unit rather than just cut the output. Not sure what affect it has on the 555 if the output isn't connected to anything. I think the LED should go between pin 3 of the 555 and earth (in series with a 1k resister)

07/19/2008, 08:17 AM	#86
hypertech Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 244	What do you connect the other end of the 500k pot to?

07/19/2008, 07:56 PM	#89
suphew Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Posts: 106	I don't think you can, you have to tune the wave to the resonant frequency of the tank. I think it is possible to get double waves if your tank is long enough. Speaking of which does anyone know who to calculate the resonant frequency? The must be a formular for it

07/19/2008, 09:27 PM	#90
HighlandReef Chalice Monger Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: NW Indiana Posts: 1,163	nice thread!

07/20/2008, 09:13 PM	#93
black_kapre Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: union city ca Posts: 496	dude is it possible to get a look at what the back of the circuit board and also what is the plug that connects to the tonza controller called...........im going to be makeing one for my 60gal cube........with external overflow..........so im thinking of makeing the box for the wavebox outside the tank as well......6055 is the perpect one right......

07/21/2008, 03:35 PM	#95
Deuce67 Registered Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: CO Posts: 3,750	The other end of my pot hits a 10uf cap then to ground. Edit* Seems like XTMs diagram is different from mine

07/21/2008, 06:18 PM	#97
hypertech Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 244	Is the 20k resistor (R2) in series with the pot? Are you trying to show a connection to the wiper with that triangle? If so, what you are saying makes some sense. I assumed that was a ground connection since a triangle is conventionally a connection to ground.

07/21/2008, 06:24 PM	#98
xtm Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Panorama City, CA Posts: 4,703	ahhhhhhh now I see what you're saying. The resistor symbol with a "ground" is a symbol for a variable resistor. (potentiometer) hope that helps __________________ Function before fashion Current Tank Info: 120g SPS Tank (48x24x24)

07/21/2008, 11:17 PM	#99
zibba Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 1,605	xtm - pm sent. __________________ 84x42x30 (~450g) A.G.E. and ADA 90-P (~45g).

07/22/2008, 08:24 AM	#100
zibba Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 1,605	I won't be picking up the 6100's for this project until later this week, but I've already picked up some black acrylic and weldon. I have yet to make the trip to Radio Shack as we're is still trying to understand your diagram and work out any potential glitches along the way. My first question is about the cord running from the circuit board into the 5-pin tunze driver. Were you able to find this cord at an online store or is this also something that is available at Radio Shack or is it the one that comes with the driver? If it's the one that comes with the driver, is it easy to fix if I decided to scratch the project and just hook it up to an aquasurf? Second question, it looks like you've replaced the shroud on your 6100 with the shroud of a 6200. The slots appear to be larger than other 6100's I've seen. Is this necessary for the wavebox? Third question. What dremel bit were you using for cutting the acrylic? I'm new to acrylic and don't want to see a good project go bad because I grabbed the wrong cutting bit. Fourth question. Should the 6100 be as low as possible in the wavebox or would you recommend leaving a little space underneath? I'm trying to plan where exactly to cut the outlet hole for the tunze. Ok, that's all I have for now. I'm sure more issues will come up as we work through this project. With your help and if it's alright with you, I'd like to post pictures of some of our progress in your thread to help others out. You've done a great job describing the entire process, but with more people chiming in about their builds, perhaps we can spark even more interest. Hope you agree and looking forward to hearing your response. Cheers, - Z