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08/17/2016, 06:21 AM | #3951 | |
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The bleach is still experimental. You didn't mention how many days is needed. We don't know exactly. Bleach also had some fish deaths. To the person experimenting fish death was an acceptable loss. So, yes it seems so far to be effective but we don't know if it is also truly 100% effective (I have my doubts), if it effects more then just what we want to target (we know if doesnt but dont know to what extent at the micro level), and is certainly more dangerous to overdose. I am hesitant to try that method out due to the risk factors. Fish are what I care about most in my tank, next my anemones and the tiniest things you can look at. We know it's possible effects on fish but not on anemones or other small organisms.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
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08/17/2016, 10:30 AM | #3952 | |
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This morning after 2 days of 4 doses, a sample tank water were examined under the microscope and I saw dramatic reduction of dino. I am going to continue this regimen for 2 weeks and hopefully it would completely decimate any of those buggers. Jason, I would love to see your summary and observation on the other site. |
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08/17/2016, 10:32 AM | #3953 |
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Thought I posted it here
anyway you can google search for Will it truly ever go away? Dinoflagellates vs. Metronidazole
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
08/17/2016, 11:31 AM | #3954 | |
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Under the scope the dino you had doesn't seem like the nastiest of all "Ostreopsis ovata". |
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08/17/2016, 11:37 AM | #3955 | |
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
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08/17/2016, 11:47 AM | #3956 |
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peridinium is ID'd in your thread, wondering if Metrozole is effective against the Ostis.
were you dosing 125mg/gal, I thought you doubled of what Todd was using at 250mg/gal. |
08/17/2016, 12:21 PM | #3957 | |
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I did 250mg/gal and did a total of 10 days.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
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08/17/2016, 12:32 PM | #3958 | |
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One thing that struck me on the theory of biodiversity for curing the dino is that its seems like you have good population of pods early on but dinos were still running and dancing happily. |
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08/17/2016, 03:05 PM | #3959 | |
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I normally never see any kind of dino outbreak. I forced an outbreak though at the beginning of that thread.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
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08/17/2016, 04:28 PM | #3960 |
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on the other note, since you id the size of Alexandrium to be 30-40 um, what was the rating of filter sock you used to catch the buggers. I can't even find anything lower than 100 um.
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08/17/2016, 05:09 PM | #3961 | |
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the filter socks are catching other organics that they are attached too which helps to export them. Or they themselves attach to the filter socks.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
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08/17/2016, 10:27 PM | #3962 | |
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That is supposed to be 250mg/10gallons
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
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08/18/2016, 06:25 AM | #3963 |
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I feel that dosing no3 and po4 to keep them detectable helped keep my sps alive. The dinos were consuming all the nutrients not leaving much for anything else. I also feel that this helped me start to get some other things to grow some there was actually some nutrients available
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08/21/2016, 06:46 AM | #3964 |
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It's been 3 years since I started this thread and many years before that I had battled the Ostreopsis dinoflagellates.
I've done 100-200 tests with my tank, read countless research articles and kept myself up to date on developments. I've spent months of my life doing this and documented much of it here for others to pick up and improve upon. Even though my current status is unchanged with the dinos that are keeping me away from my passion with SPS, all is not lost. It's been interesting and very educational tackling these little devils and I regret nothing at all. We have made a definite progress in knowledge and a lot of futile tests are valuable results even if they haven't solved the issue. I don't think I'll be doing any more tests and will leave those to someone else and I think those need to be well funded trained professionals. My reef tank stays as it is and hopefully the future will come up with something. I'm both disappointed in how slow things are moving and very thankful to those that have contributed. |
08/21/2016, 07:22 AM | #3965 |
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DNA, I'm curious what your no3 and po4 levels are at since you have had such a long battle with these? Thank you for all of the effort you have put into this thread.
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08/23/2016, 02:01 PM | #3966 |
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I'm a fan of the "dirty" method as it helped me defeat my Dinos. Albeit it resulted in an algae break. Finally getting the algae under control....dinos are back :-) Employing the dirty method now simply by overfeeding, but in a much more controlled manner.
My (dumb) question is - will running my skimmer, dosing carbon, or doing water changes undermine the "dirty" method? Can I do any of those to help water clarity (like carbon) but not sacrifice the beneficial life that's keeping my Dinos at bay?
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08/23/2016, 08:06 PM | #3967 |
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Carbon should be fine to run, and might help. Even the skimmer could be okay, but you will need to experiment with that.
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08/24/2016, 08:02 AM | #3968 |
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For me I just relaxed things that aggressively target one nutrient (i.e., GFO). Left he skimmer running.
I actually think carbon dosing may help long term once your system is in line and back to having more normal algae.
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08/25/2016, 08:13 AM | #3969 |
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Great, thanks all. I will try some carbon and see what happens.
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Bryan Current Tank Info: 220 since Nov 2005 |
08/27/2016, 04:30 PM | #3970 |
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I am starting taking down system to start over by cleaning equipment that is in the sump or had water running through it, then sump and eventually the display tank. I have a few select corals and fish I would like to keep if it is possible by setting up in a quarantine tank. I have Ostreopsis ovata in my tank that I am giving up on so 1. How to clean corals and fish? 2. What to clean display tank and equipment? I have several gallons of 5% white vinegar on hand. Thanks Robert
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08/27/2016, 08:59 PM | #3971 |
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I just discovered KMnO4 as a powerful oxidizer. It kills anything that's not a coral. The only reason corals survive is because they can close up tightly while the oxidizer burns through all tissue.
It's not easy to use though. I had to set up multiple dips in a peroxide solution to remove it from the rockwork and spongy rocks.
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
08/27/2016, 09:01 PM | #3972 |
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The tank and other equipment probably will be fine with a cleaning with some vinegar. If you are very worried, wiping with a dilute bleach solution would be safe enough for the tank. I'd work outdoors to reduce fume exposure.
For the corals, a dip like Lugol's or one of the commercial products might do the job. I'm not sure about that. A freshwater dip for the fish should be enough, with some luck.
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Jonathan Bertoni Last edited by bertoni; 08/28/2016 at 06:04 PM. Reason: typo: fish instead of corals |
08/28/2016, 06:01 AM | #3973 |
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I had green cayno in my tank after my move....been fighting it since Jan. Then 3 weeks ago I was at Petco getting my dogs nails done and came across this stuff...I said what the heck...Added 1/4 recommended amount and then a week later added the same amount. (total 1/2 the recommended amount) Now 3 weeks later the green cayno is almost gone. I did not change nothing but that. So maybe it worked....
http://www.bhg.com/shop/imagitarium-...b5452c8f9.html Thanks Matt
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08/28/2016, 11:23 AM | #3974 | |
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Hope for the best, but expect to see dinos back. |
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08/28/2016, 06:05 PM | #3975 |
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Oops, I had to fix a typo in my post. I meant a Lugol's dip for the corals, and maybe a fresh water dip for the fish.
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