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Unread 01/26/2015, 06:44 PM   #26
ThRoewer
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If you read the article carefully you see that the slow lowering of salinity is only for the filter bacteria to survive. Fish I just drip in over an hour and so far none of them has shown the slightest sign of distress.

While boiling might be overkill I don't think the changes in water chemistry affect fish. As for the energy - I combine the hot water with the currently quite cold RO water which usually gets it pretty close to my tank temperature. So I only use ice if I need to lower it a bit more.

In general the water should even be fine if you just let it stand in a canister for two days as the free stage can only live for 24h without attaching to a host.


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Unread 01/27/2015, 01:25 AM   #27
TitanCi
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Can someone tell me if its ok to use filtered sea water for tank transfer? I have several jugs full of filtered sea water and I would think its a waste. Anyone, ie snorvich, foresee any issues with using it???


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Unread 01/27/2015, 01:36 AM   #28
ThRoewer
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It's what I use. But I let it stand in the canister for a few days at room temperature.


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3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki

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Unread 01/27/2015, 01:52 AM   #29
TitanCi
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Why I advocate TTM first for all new fish

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Originally Posted by ThRoewer View Post
It's what I use. But I let it stand in the canister for a few days at room temperature.

Thanks, by filtered I really mean filtered from the sea. I live in San Diego and I am lucky (?) enough to be close to Scripps Institute. They give free water thats filtered. No diseases you think?

My DT is nothing but RO and IO RC though


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Unread 01/27/2015, 02:11 AM   #30
ThRoewer
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The store where I get my water from uses and sells ocean water that has been collected off the coast at Monterey. They filter and enhance it (alkalinity and calcium) and I can find nothing wrong with it.


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Pairs: 4 percula, 3 P. kauderni, 3 D. excisus, 1 ea of P. diacanthus, S. splendidus, C. altivelis O. rosenblatti, D. janssi, S. yasha & a Gramma loreto trio
3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki

Current Tank Info: 200 gal 4 tank system (40x28x24 + 40B + 40B sump tank + 20g refugium) + 30x18x18 mixed reef + 20g East Pacific biotop + 20g FW +...

Last edited by ThRoewer; 01/27/2015 at 02:12 AM. Reason: spelling
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Unread 01/27/2015, 09:39 AM   #31
Dmorty217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThRoewer View Post
I don't see how cryptocaryon can survive being boiled. And there are plenty of other reasons to lower the salinity, not just to kill the parasite.
Here is a good article on Ich and TTM: A New Variation Of The Transfer Method
Why boil tank water and smell up your home when mixing new saltwater is much easier and less foul smelling?


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Unread 01/27/2015, 09:47 AM   #32
Spar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanCi View Post
Can someone tell me if its ok to use filtered sea water for tank transfer? I have several jugs full of filtered sea water and I would think its a waste. Anyone, ie snorvich, foresee any issues with using it???

Parasites live in the wild too obviously. And microscopic organisms will go straight through most if not all filters id presume. So you still run the risk if bringing in a protomont or theront from that water. Now if you timed it right you could play the cycle right. Let it sit for 24-48 hours first. Theronts would die. Protomonts would encyst/harden. Transfer that water to a new dry container and should be good to go.


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Unread 01/27/2015, 10:06 AM   #33
TitanCi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThRoewer View Post
The store where I get my water from uses and sells ocean water that has been collected off the coast at Monterey. They filter and enhance it (alkalinity and calcium) and I can find nothing wrong with it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Spar View Post
Parasites live in the wild too obviously. And microscopic organisms will go straight through most if not all filters id presume. So you still run the risk if bringing in a protomont or theront from that water. Now if you timed it right you could play the cycle right. Let it sit for 24-48 hours first. Theronts would die. Protomonts would encyst/harden. Transfer that water to a new dry container and should be good to go.

Thanks guys! The water has been in there since last week. I usually don't use it anymore but figure i was in the area and maybe give it a try.



Fish are looking better and about to go into QT tonight.


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Unread 01/27/2015, 04:43 PM   #34
Spar
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The water has been in there since last week.
I'd have to defer to the NSW experts on the chances of a parasite hitching in on NSW purchases; however, just to further my point about the timing... if you do wait more than 3 days from purchase, then your only concern after that is more theront's hatching. So [for absolute surety] you would want to transfer that water to a new container, wait 1 day, and all life cycle stages would be dead.


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Unread 01/27/2015, 05:23 PM   #35
jbvdhp
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Originally Posted by Spar View Post
I'd have to defer to the NSW experts on the chances of a parasite hitching in on NSW purchases; however, just to further my point about the timing... if you do wait more than 3 days from purchase, then your only concern after that is more theront's hatching. So [for absolute surety] you would want to transfer that water to a new container, wait 1 day, and all life cycle stages would be dead.
Thanks Spar, luckily for me, it was free.

What if i microwaved the water or boiled it? Hmm...


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Unread 01/28/2015, 02:37 AM   #36
TitanCi
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Why I advocate TTM first for all new fish

Well, my three tangs and Midas survived 12 days in a 18 gallon pink Sterilite bin! No visible ich, no flashing...

PT has some skin lesions caudally; thought it was flukes, may be, but they're lesions for sure.

Point is, TTM works for ich, no doubt. For those facing this problem, TTM is way to go.



Last edited by TitanCi; 01/28/2015 at 02:58 AM.
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