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Unread 08/09/2017, 06:50 AM   #1
Capt_Cully
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What temp is your tank?

Short n sweet.

What temp range does your tank live at?

Winter?
Summer?

Gracias


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Current Tank Info: 120, Radion Gen 2 Pro x 2
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Unread 08/09/2017, 07:00 AM   #2
CUSE1315
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78-79 in my 180 gallon.

500W titanium finnex heater controlled by my Apex.


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Unread 08/09/2017, 08:10 AM   #3
mr.maroonsalty
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Winter: as low as 78, but 80-82.
Summer 80-84, but it might see 86.

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Unread 08/09/2017, 08:23 AM   #4
prose
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What temp is your tank?

77-78 year round...thanks to my controller


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Unread 08/09/2017, 08:40 AM   #5
Jewilson83
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I use MH, T5 and LEDs.
Winter: 78-79
Summer: 78.5-80.5


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Current Tank Info: 90 Gallon: Coralife Aqualife Pro 492W MH, Proflex Model 3 Refugium Sump, Jabeo WP-25 wavemaker, Bubble Magnus NAC6, Finnex 500W heater w/controller, Mag 9.5 Pump, SPS, LPS, Zoas, RBTAs, Fishes, Shrimps, Crabs, CUC, and Snails
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Unread 08/09/2017, 08:41 AM   #6
Vinny Kreyling
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Thanks to my Vectra L1 I am in the 84 degree range with the ac @ 76.


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Unread 08/09/2017, 09:27 AM   #7
Gary Majchrzak
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80F currently my target

She presently swings from 75F (cold dry winter mornings) to 84F (with AC off and halides on in summer).
At 84F halides get switched off by ACjr.

New setup will have a lower target temp because it's in a basement with LEDs. The first 10 years my target was 75F.

My new target will probably 76ish.


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Unread 08/09/2017, 09:31 AM   #8
prose
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Majchrzak View Post
80F currently my target



She presently swings from 75F (cold dry winter mornings) to 84F (with AC off and halides on in summer).

At 84F halides get switched off by ACjr.



New setup will have a lower target temp because it's in a basement with LEDs. The first 10 years my target was 75F.



My new target will probably 76ish.


Gary I have LEDs over my system never see anything go past 78 easy to have lower temp with LEDs, again I am in the cellar


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Unread 08/09/2017, 09:41 AM   #9
Gary Majchrzak
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^good to know

I'm also planning in decreasing current rate of evap with the lower temp


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Unread 08/09/2017, 10:07 AM   #10
Brieninsac
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Summer 80
Winter 79


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Unread 08/09/2017, 10:14 AM   #11
mr.maroonsalty
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Controllers are only a more solid switch. Climate controlled houses, non-halide tanks should get the thanks if a tight temp range is the goal. I think their is something said about letting the temps move around; Either that, or many of the "my tank hit x degrees and everything is crashed threads are questionable.

I use a dual ranco for heaters and the canopy fan, i still manually turn off the mh's

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Unread 08/09/2017, 10:45 AM   #12
jacksonpt
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79, +/- a half of a degree or so, year round.


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- All advice I give is based on my first hand experience. YMMV.

Current Tank Info: 38g (mostly LPS) with a 20g sump/fuge and all the other standard goodies
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Unread 08/09/2017, 10:49 AM   #13
chgoblknazn
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typically 78-79 all year


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Unread 08/09/2017, 11:35 AM   #14
Capt_Cully
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Thanks for input. My new system has been running hot. Vectra return pump not withstanding I found a malfunctioning heater. I'm running Radions and 4 T5s inside a hood so my T5s are going off & on all day via Apex control. I'm running 82-83 much of the daylight hours. I'd like to be 77-79. I'm taking measures to correct.

Thanks guys!


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Unread 08/09/2017, 12:47 PM   #15
Flanders
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Short answer: I dunno. Long answer, I don't think any of the ways I'm currently measuring temp are accurate. Or maybe one of them is, but I don't know which one. I have two thermometers and they both read different temps, and both of those temps are different from what my Inkbird temperature controller reads.

The controller is set to 81. It feels colder than 81 when I stick my arm in the tank, as dumb as that sounds. This controller reads down to a tenth of a degree, but only turns on and off within 1 degree of where you set it, which is really very stupid. So all day the tank fluctuates 79.8-81.2 or so... I assume because the water will continue heating and cooling due to maybe fluid dynamics? I might have just made that up.

It probably doesn't really matter that much anyway. Last tank used to get down to 75ish on the regular and nothing seemed to mind.


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Current Tank Info: 75 gallon reef, two 175-watt MH, two vho actinic
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Unread 08/09/2017, 05:39 PM   #16
der_wille_zur_macht
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I feel like temperature is a case where many reef keepers are slightly ignorant to issues related to sensor/controller accuracy and precision, but at the same time reef tanks are not as sensitive to temperature as we think, so things kind of work out anyways.


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Unread 08/09/2017, 05:44 PM   #17
Capt_Cully
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I would concur Nate that tanks sort of live where they live. This current tank of mine is floundering. LEDS areconvenient but I just can't get my corals to enjoy them. I'm trying to sweep out the corners and see what gives.


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Unread 08/09/2017, 06:16 PM   #18
drtango
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Same boat here, Radions just never worked for me, I think they were to close to surface. Sucked out the sandbed and went back to halides, all good.


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Current Tank Info: 200 DD, 400w halides, low tech
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Unread 08/09/2017, 07:27 PM   #19
Capt_Cully
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drtango View Post
Same boat here, Radions just never worked for me, I think they were to close to surface. Sucked out the sandbed and went back to halides, all good.
All the struggling I've done and things I've tried, may have off set the convenience of set & forget Radions. Man this hobby is like a friggin rabbit hole.
Red pill? Blue pill? I dunno....


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Unread 08/09/2017, 07:56 PM   #20
Flanders
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I am halfway ready to scrap LED's myself. Corals just don't grow like I remember, even easy stuff.


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Current Tank Info: 75 gallon reef, two 175-watt MH, two vho actinic
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Unread 08/09/2017, 09:11 PM   #21
Wes8888
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77.4-78.0 all year around.


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Unread 08/10/2017, 02:39 AM   #22
block head
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80 says the CHEAPO glass thermometer. I have a an acjr new it he box . single 250 halide w reefbrite doesn't rock the boat much . window shaker ac keeps my place within reason. Might bribe my kid into rigging up the controller.


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Unread 08/10/2017, 06:21 PM   #23
der_wille_zur_macht
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flanders View Post
I am halfway ready to scrap LED's myself. Corals just don't grow like I remember, even easy stuff.
Deep down inside there's a part of me that wants to scrap my Kessil and put a 400w Radium 20kk MH on my nano.


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"It is my personal belief that reef aquaria should be thriving communities of biodiversity, representative of their wild counterparts, and not merely collections of pretty specimens growing on tidy clean rock shelves covered in purple coralline algae." (Eric Borneman)
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Unread 08/10/2017, 06:24 PM   #24
der_wille_zur_macht
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Cheap alcohol glass thermometers are probably more reliable and accurate than the majority of controllers and sensors sold specifically for the hobby. At least when they're off it's consistent, and the accuracy is still very good.

I have a quick read meat thermometer based on a trusty old k type thermocouple that I trust the most. It's precise and can be calibrated and it's easy to use.


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"It is my personal belief that reef aquaria should be thriving communities of biodiversity, representative of their wild counterparts, and not merely collections of pretty specimens growing on tidy clean rock shelves covered in purple coralline algae." (Eric Borneman)
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Unread 08/10/2017, 06:45 PM   #25
Gary Majchrzak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drtango View Post
Same boat here, Radions just never worked for me, I think they were to close to surface. Sucked out the sandbed and went back to halides, all good.
how close to surface were your Radions? What model(s)?

DAMMIT!


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Current Tank Info: 84x24x30 265g reef past TOTM honors
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