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Old 04/18/2014, 04:03 PM   #1251
sahin
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Sahin,

You received no word of acknowledgement in the TOTM article. That must suck!

PS. IOW is a lovely place. My favourite town is Shanklin.
I did get a mention. It's right near the bottom of the article.


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Old 04/18/2014, 06:45 PM   #1252
ryanrid
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So it's not the power box failure, plugged into my brother light and no issue.


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Old 04/19/2014, 07:08 AM   #1253
graham hunt
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re iow

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Originally Posted by DiscusHeckel View Post
Sahin,

You received no word of acknowledgement in the TOTM article. That must suck!

PS. IOW is a lovely place. My favourite town is Shanklin.
hi discus heckel,shanklin is a pretty town,i live in bembridge now lots of people remember iow from their childhood holidays as its just a hop off mainland but they have increased the ferry prices so much they are killing the seaside towns,just far to expensive for family holiday cheaper to go proper abroad now!
i was born in east cowes moved off for work and came back in 88 settled in wellow west wight,atlantic coast,free water everywhere!i loved it and still yearn for that area it is proper wild and woolly on that coast when i win the lottery i will instantly return there!when health took a dive i was talked into moving here
i should not have listend,hey ho.
reef scene is a bit bleak not many coral keepers i have come accross even fewer shops so most all is ordered from mainland,i did try knew german company advertising on ur but next day turned into two days(probably link to iow) all but two acros doa other two look to be slowly recovering.
new lights havea lot to do with that i am sure.
regards graham.


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Old 04/19/2014, 08:04 PM   #1254
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I have a new 60 inch 4 bulb and the other night I noticed that the T5's where still faintly on and flickering when everything should have been off.
Has anyone else had this problem?


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Old 04/20/2014, 04:53 AM   #1255
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I have a new 60 inch 4 bulb and the other night I noticed that the T5's where still faintly on and flickering when everything should have been off.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Thats odd. Do you have a surge protector? I would try a surge protector and see if you get the issue anymore.

You can also try plug into a totally different socket/wall outlet.

In my last place, when I had my tank with MH, my Tunze Osmolator Auto Topoff would behave erratically if plugged onto the same socket as my MH. But it was only this one socket which would cause this issue.

If the above doesnt work then I would contact ATI Support.


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Old 04/20/2014, 01:05 PM   #1256
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Thanks Sahin,
I have a bank of six outlets installed on their own circuit under the tank stand. It seems that any outlet on that circuit causes the problem. The light turns off if I connect via an extension cord to another part of the house.
This sure goofs up all my electrical planning. I guess I'll have to figure out how to run another cable to the tank or find some kind of filter.


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Old 04/20/2014, 02:54 PM   #1257
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Thanks Sahin,
I have a bank of six outlets installed on their own circuit under the tank stand. It seems that any outlet on that circuit causes the problem. The light turns off if I connect via an extension cord to another part of the house.
This sure goofs up all my electrical planning. I guess I'll have to figure out how to run another cable to the tank or find some kind of filter.
So when connected to another part of the house without an extension cable it doesnt exhibit the issue? Just want to confirm that so if anyone else comes across this issue, at least we know for sure. This will also tell you if the light fixture is at fault or not.

If it doesnt have any issues when connected directly to a socket by itself on another part of the house, then you can safely assume there is no issues with your light unit. I would also get an electrician to check out your circuit for under the tank.

I would also put the light on another part of the house and connect it with a GFCI protector. This will show if there is any electrical leakage with the ATI unit.

Also, are you in Europe or USA?


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Old 04/20/2014, 03:08 PM   #1258
Madrid Dan
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Yes, when I plugged the light into a different outlet on the other side of the room (a different circuit) and everything seems fine.

Only when I plug into the tank circuit does the light no turn off. There are six mains outlets on the tank circuit with all of the other tank equipment plugged into them. Would this possibly cause some kind of interference?

I am in Spain.


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Old 04/20/2014, 03:36 PM   #1259
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Yes, when I plugged the light into a different outlet on the other side of the room (a different circuit) and everything seems fine.

Only when I plug into the tank circuit does the light no turn off. There are six mains outlets on the tank circuit with all of the other tank equipment plugged into them. Would this possibly cause some kind of interference?

I am in Spain.
OK, I think one of your other equipment is causing the issue or it is circuit. Connecting your light back to the tanks circuit and reconnecting the equipment one by one can probably highlight a faulty piece of equipment; HOWEVER this puts your light at risk of damage, lucky that it hasnt caused it already.

I am not an electrician, and only know VERY basics, but I would get your circuit checked for fault or one of the fish equipment is leaking current possibly?

Either way, I wouldnt connect your expensive light into that circuit/with those other equipment.

If you can, run a single line with correct gauge wire to supply the current needs of the light at the correct distance.

Let us know how this is sorted out.


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Old 04/20/2014, 07:35 PM   #1260
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I'm presently running 2-250 Radium MH's and 1-400 Radium MH in the center of a 300DD tank (72x36). I'm thinking of going to a ATI powermodule with 8 t-5's and the 3 banks of LED's. My question is how would I go about changing over to the new lighting without killing all of the corals in the changeover. I have SPS, LPS and also some leathers.


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Old 04/20/2014, 08:00 PM   #1261
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I would say that your new fixture will be close to the same par depending on your bulb selection.


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Old 04/21/2014, 01:21 PM   #1262
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Hello ATI Hybrid clubbers,

Normaly I will join the club this week.

At the moment I light my tank with ATI Powermodule 10 x 54 W. SPS - LPS mixed.
My lightregime at the moment is:

9 am - 10.30 pm: 1 Gieseman atinic - 1 AM blue
3 pm - 9 pm: the other 8

After reading this entire topic I still have some questions...

I'm a litle worried about the led vs the corrals. What is a good intensity to start with?
Is it possible to renew the link about to make the settings? I can't open the clip...
Can you make a mooncycle? What about a cloudy day? Or are this no needed functions...
Are the t5 bulbs included?

Maybe some pics...






Already thanks for the interesting reading in this topic,
and the answers still to come.

Best regards,
Peter



Last edited by Dino; 04/22/2014 at 04:54 AM.
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Old 04/21/2014, 02:42 PM   #1263
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How hot does your unit get? Do all the fans turn on over the T5s? Mine is extremely hot and only 1 fan works. Do you think this is a problem? I was planning on putting it in a canopy over my next tank but now I'm concerned about the heat.


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Old 04/21/2014, 03:00 PM   #1264
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How hot does your unit get? Do all the fans turn on over the T5s? Mine is extremely hot and only 1 fan works. Do you think this is a problem? I was planning on putting it in a canopy over my next tank but now I'm concerned about the heat.
The fans over the T5's should turn on ALL at the SAME time when the T5 tubes are on. If you only have 1 fan working it means the others are faulty/stuck etc. Ensure the fans can spin freely...sometimes during shipping the fan covers can get pushed down causing the fans to get stuck.

The fans over the LED, will switch on depending on temp of unit. Mine comes on when the unit reaches around 48'C. I have 8 tubes and at PEAK times I run the Royal Blue at 100%, White at 25% and Blue at 25%; the temp hasnt so far reached 50'C as I tend to glance at the controller when I am near the tank. My living room runs 26-28'C all year round as it is a modern flat. If I were in a colder location my unit would have run slightly cooler.

I would definitely contact ATI Support/your retailer.

The units do have a safety protection built in and will decrease or switch power off if it overheats.


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Old 04/21/2014, 03:14 PM   #1265
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I'm presently running 2-250 Radium MH's and 1-400 Radium MH in the center of a 300DD tank (72x36). I'm thinking of going to a ATI powermodule with 8 t-5's and the 3 banks of LED's. My question is how would I go about changing over to the new lighting without killing all of the corals in the changeover. I have SPS, LPS and also some leathers.
My 8x24w unit with 1 LED cluster creates an astonishing 400+ PAR on the glass in my BareBottomed 18" high tank at a height of 6" above the waterline!

These ATI units are absolute PAR monsters. I would start off by running ONLY the T5's for say 6 hours. Increase the time to around 8 hours eventually over about 10 days. Then start to utilise the LED's after that.

Also, hang the lights at least 10 inches above the tank to start with.

So, a combo of reduced light hours, high suspension height and gradual use of the hybrid system will ensure corals are safe.

Look closely at the corals, especially LPS and any SPS nearer to the surface for bleaching or tissue losing colour or LPS tissue becoming "more see through" (eg frogspawn/hammers etc). Reduce light intensity immediately if that happens.


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Old 04/21/2014, 03:23 PM   #1266
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The fans over the T5's should turn on ALL at the SAME time when the T5 tubes are on. If you only have 1 fan working it means the others are faulty/stuck etc. Ensure the fans can spin freely...sometimes during shipping the fan covers can get pushed down causing the fans to get stuck.

The fans over the LED, will switch on depending on temp of unit. Mine comes on when the unit reaches around 48'C. I have 8 tubes and at PEAK times I run the Royal Blue at 100%, White at 25% and Blue at 25%; the temp hasnt so far reached 50'C as I tend to glance at the controller when I am near the tank. My living room runs 26-28'C all year round as it is a modern flat. If I were in a colder location my unit would have run slightly cooler.

I would definitely contact ATI Support/your retailer.

The units do have a safety protection built in and will decrease or switch power off if it overheats.
Thanks. That is what I was afraid to here. I'll see if they are stuck and I'll send ATi a message.


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Old 04/21/2014, 03:39 PM   #1267
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Thanks. That is what I was afraid to here. I'll see if they are stuck and I'll send ATi a message.
Got it fixed. Thanks Sahin. The ATi symbol was stuck. I wonder how ruined my bulbs are now that they have been overheated.


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Old 04/21/2014, 03:46 PM   #1268
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Got it fixed. Thanks Sahin. The ATi symbol was stuck. I wonder how ruined my bulbs are now that they have been overheated.
Glad that was an easy fix!

The bulbs wont be ruined as bad as you think. But may have reduced the life of them by a month or two. Really badly burnt tubes (due to excessive heat) will exhibit dark circles on the end with the text/label.

This is also the end that should be orientated to be placed with the air blowing onto them from within the unit - on the ATI LED PM's its the cable side.

Hope that helps.


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Old 04/21/2014, 08:43 PM   #1269
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Glad that was an easy fix!

The bulbs wont be ruined as bad as you think. But may have reduced the life of them by a month or two. Really badly burnt tubes (due to excessive heat) will exhibit dark circles on the end with the text/label.

This is also the end that should be orientated to be placed with the air blowing onto them from within the unit - on the ATI LED PM's its the cable side.

Hope that helps.
Interesting. I had no idea about that. I'll orient them the correct way next time.


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Old 04/22/2014, 10:58 PM   #1270
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Any idea if these units can program in storm/lightning events?

i have the 3 foot/8tube unit and would be fun to show to friends. Havent seen anything that says it can be done but figure i would ask anyhow

Thanks


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Old 04/23/2014, 01:56 AM   #1271
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Any idea if these units can program in storm/lightning events?

i have the 3 foot/8tube unit and would be fun to show to friends. Havent seen anything that says it can be done but figure i would ask anyhow

Thanks
Not possible. ATI have chosen not to allow this feature. Maybe possible since the T5's and LED's are dimmable.

Maybe email ATI and ask them to add it as a feature?


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Old 04/23/2014, 11:13 AM   #1272
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I'm presently running 3 MH lights which put out as we all know a little bit of heat so I have the Apex programmed to shut the lights down if the tank temp reaches a certain temperature. To me it looks like the ATI 2615, having it's own controller, is not able to accominidate this function? Any way to do this? If the powermodule is plugged into an Apex outlet that is constantly on unless it shuts the outlet down due to temperature do you lose all the programming of the ATI unit?


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Current Tank Info: 300 gal reef with all the goodies. A 65 gal sump a, 2-65 gal refug/growout and an integrated 65 gal. QT tank. Custom GEO beckett skimmer, GEO Ca reactor, GEO media reactors both GFO and carbon, GEO kalk reactor. 3-250 watt halides.
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Old 04/23/2014, 11:38 AM   #1273
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I'm presently running 3 MH lights which put out as we all know a little bit of heat so I have the Apex programmed to shut the lights down if the tank temp reaches a certain temperature. To me it looks like the ATI 2615, having it's own controller, is not able to accominidate this function? Any way to do this? If the powermodule is plugged into an Apex outlet that is constantly on unless it shuts the outlet down due to temperature do you lose all the programming of the ATI unit?
You will not lose the programming. However you will lose the time on the unit. It is possible to connect this way as I have mine connected to my GHL.

However, the heat issue that you have with using Metal Halides and an ATI unit is quite different. I doubt the Apex will ever need to shut down the light...a T5/LED unit will produce and transfer MUCH LESS heat.

In the unlikely event say a VERY hot day, and the APEX shuts down the ATI unit, the time will be effected. If you are at home, it takes less than 5 seconds to change it back.

If you are not home (ie on holiday and no one is around to reset the time), it just means the TIME will have changed, and the unit will turn on and off a different time...but will follow the same program. Not a terrible thing.

However, like I said it is UNLIKELY to ever do this since most people NEVER need to run chillers etc due to T5 lights, for Metal Halide yes. So the Apex will likely never shut down the ATI unit.

Hope that makes sense.


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Old 04/23/2014, 12:07 PM   #1274
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Good news my unit is by the store.

Tommorow i pick him up.
I choose this setup for the t5 bulbs.
front to back:
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Actinic
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Coral Plus
LED LED LED LED
ATI Coral Plus
ATI Purple Plus
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Coral Plus


Sunday i change my setup to o new one more open lower and i make it from reefbones.
Here a photo


This week i start with the zeo methode i think with the new unit above that it word amazing.

Sunday evening picts from
The unit above my tank

Greets wesley


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Old 04/23/2014, 12:48 PM   #1275
sahin
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Hello ATI Hybrid clubbers,

Normaly I will join the club this week.

At the moment I light my tank with ATI Powermodule 10 x 54 W. SPS - LPS mixed.
My lightregime at the moment is:

9 am - 10.30 pm: 1 Gieseman atinic - 1 AM blue
3 pm - 9 pm: the other 8

After reading this entire topic I still have some questions...

I'm a litle worried about the led vs the corrals. What is a good intensity to start with?
Is it possible to renew the link about to make the settings? I can't open the clip...
Can you make a mooncycle? What about a cloudy day? Or are this no needed functions...
Are the t5 bulbs included?

Maybe some pics...






Already thanks for the interesting reading in this topic,
and the answers still to come.

Best regards,
Peter
I got notification of this post yesterday but unable to reply because it wouldnt appear on the thread. But it seems the mods have sorted it out.

Peter, As for your questions:

I'm a litle worried about the led vs the corrals. What is a good intensity to start with?
Since you have a 10tube PM, you can switch over with little worry. Start the T5's at 100% and LED at 20% intensity. Over a few weeks adjust LED channels and intensity to what you like. If you PM me with your email address and basic details of how you like your light profile, I can create a light profile for you. Just make sure you tell me which exact ATI model you bought and how many LED clusters etc.

Is it possible to renew the link about to make the settings? I can't open the clip...
Here is the link and video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lh6f4JA9UUI


Can you make a mooncycle? What about a cloudy day? Or are this no needed functions...
Yes, you can program a moonlight cycle and cloud cycle. However it will be the same thing every day. The software doesnt include days...its one program for every day. IMO these are not needed and more of a gimmick. The cloud effect may be useful though if for example you want to run a long light cycle, it makes sense to include a "cloud cover" part of the cycle to give the corals a break from the high intensity.

But for most purposes, not really needed.

Are the t5 bulbs included?
No. But speak with your retailer. I know in the UK you can get discount if you buy the lamp and T5 tubes at the same time.

You have a beautiful mixed tank. Post some photos when you get the new light.


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