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Unread 03/18/2009, 08:15 PM   #1
JohnL
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This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...8#post14641558


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Unread 03/18/2009, 08:15 PM   #2
GlassReef
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In honor of my split thread, I thought I'd post a little index so that you can quickly find particular topics, that might interest you, in the first 40 pages:

Page 1 - System Specs

Page 1 - RO/DI Setup

Page 1 - Tank Stand

Page 2 - RO/DI ATO

Page 3 - Light Rack

Page 5 - Changing a Dart NeedleWheel

Page 6 - First Tank Pics

Page 7 - More Tank Pics

Page 8 - Cooling Fans and Fan Boxes

Page 9 - Sump Water Test

Page 10 - Sump Details

Page 10 - Tank Arrival

Page 12 - Overflow Plumbing

Page 13 - Skimmer Placement

Page 14 - Sump Area Electrical

Page 14 - Controller Electrical

Page 16 - Skimmer Installation

Page 17 - AquaControler Utility

Page 23 - New Model 6205 Tunze Streams

Page 24 - Frag and Fuge Tank Stand

Page 24 - Marco Rocks Arrive

Page 24 - Acrylic Rock Platforms

Page 25 - Beginning of the Aquascape

Page 27 - Rock Blower

Page 28 - Fish Room Plumbing and Setup

Page 28 - Water Change Equipment

Page 30 - Tunze 7095 Controller Hook Up

Page 32 - Dual Skimmers Running

Page 33 - Supplement Dosing Setup

Page 36 - Supplement Installation

Page 39 - Probe Holder and Controller Installation

Page 40 - First Fish Pics


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No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

Last edited by Nanook; 04/02/2009 at 02:38 PM.
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Unread 03/18/2009, 08:19 PM   #3
Ed Reef
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Congratulations on your split Tom....


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~ Art is an adventure into an unknown world, which can only be explored by those willing to take the risks. ~

Current Tank Info: Ed Reef’s Shallow Crest Inspired ART
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Unread 03/18/2009, 08:25 PM   #4
GlassReef
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ed Reef
Congratulations on your split Tom....
Why ... thank you, Ed. The way your new thread is going, it won't be long before it splits, also. Gonna be one sweet setup!

For anyone who hasn't visited Ed's latest: Ed Reef's Shallow Crest Inspired ART It's a great thread!


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No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

Last edited by GlassReef; 03/18/2009 at 08:36 PM.
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Unread 03/18/2009, 08:35 PM   #5
Ed Reef
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hahaha....hopefully to get water in there before a split lol


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Unread 03/18/2009, 09:17 PM   #6
buddie
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ed Reef
Congratulations on your split Tom....
i am sure it will not be the last split

congrats Tom


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Unread 03/19/2009, 06:31 AM   #7
GlassReef
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Well, the only main thing left to do in the fish room is build, plumb, and set up the refugium and frag tanks. I'll be using 3/8" cast acrylic sheet to build the tanks. The max height of the tanks will be 16" so 3/8" thick material will be fine - I'll be including a 3" wide Euro-brace on both tanks.

Dimensions:

Frag Tank will be 48" X 24" X 12" or approx. 60 gallons.

Refugium will be 48" X 24" X 16" or approx. 80 gallons.

Both tanks will have an internal overflow box on one end. The tanks will be plumbed to the sump with 2" PVC for the overflow and 1-1/2" PVC for the supply water. I had to install the pipes along three of the fish room walls to get from the frag/fuge location to the sump.

This is how the pipe was installed:



I used these clips from Savko.com:



If you ever need to attach PVC pipe to a wall, get 'em - they're great!

The frag and fuge tanks will be placed on this stand:



It was built using 2"X4"s, 2"X6"s, 3/4" ply, 5/8" stainless steel lag bolts, and Formica. The legs are tripled up 2"X4"s, milled to size. Holes have been drilled to handle the overflow and return pipes (although I'm thinking about foregoing the through the bottom return).


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Unread 03/19/2009, 06:36 AM   #8
EnglishRebel
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I knew this great thread would split eventually. Congrats.




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Click on my name for drop down list and select "Visit EnglishRebels Home Page" for my build thread.

Current Tank Info: 60x30x24 200G AO custom glass tank, basement equipment room, 30G and 55G Fuges, LifeReef sump & 30" skimmer.
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Unread 03/19/2009, 07:05 AM   #9
Goodwin9
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I'm more impressed each time you post pictures. Sure wish there was a way that I could start all over and implement all of your ideas. Now that your thread has split, it would be nice if you were able to post pictures of your fish room once again.


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Unread 03/19/2009, 07:35 AM   #10
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Thanks Alan and Chuck! Chuck, I think I'll be putting together a an overview in the next couple of weeks, after the frag and fuge tanks are built and installed.


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Unread 03/19/2009, 07:48 AM   #11
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Wow, Tom. Looks great!! Thanks for the pictures of the clips for holding the pipes. I think I will incorporate into my design too, thanks for the great idea!!


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Current Tank Info: 3g Pico and workin on a new 100g Acrylic setup
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Unread 03/19/2009, 08:27 AM   #12
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Frag and Fuge cont.:

As in the past, I'd like to say that just about everything I'll be showing here is taken from ideas I got from reading the great threads here on Reef Central.

As material for building the tanks, I purchased two sheets of 3/8" cast acrylic. I could have done with less but I want to use one solid piece to create the tops/euro-bracing. I've learned not to try to "cheap out" and use extruded acrylic for tanks. It's very difficult to cut, rout, and form without melting and it just doesn't have the strength of cast material. The material for the overflow boxes will be 3/8" cast black acrylic. Didn't have to buy any - I've got lots of scrape from a project a couple of years ago.

In case it may be of use to someone, I'll go through the process I use to build acrylic tanks. My tanks are all built in the following order:

1. weld the two ends to one side - ends are on top of side piece
2. turn over and place on top of other side piece - weld in place
3. place side and end construction on top of the top piece - weld in place
4. turn over and place on the bottom piece - weld in place

I will be using the pins method for welding. I use Weld-On 4 solvent. It has the consistency of water and I find it pretty easy to use. You just have to be careful not to splash it around - it leaves nasty marks.



To deliver the solvent I use a squeeze bottle with #25 gauge needle:



For pins, I've started using #18 acupuncture needles, but I think they are a little too thin for my liking, so I'll probably go back to baggy ties with the paper stripped off:



So, as far as the materials needed to do the actual welding - it's very little. I use a small plastic syringe to get the solvent from the can into the squeeze bottle. That makes the following everything I need:



To be continued ....


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Unread 03/19/2009, 08:31 AM   #13
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spsfreak - thank you, Sir. My pleasure ...


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Unread 03/19/2009, 10:04 AM   #14
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awesome. please do continue the acrylic-howto. about to start on a few of my own and though there are several threads on the topic, i'd like to see specifically how you're doing it. great work tom.


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Unread 03/19/2009, 10:33 AM   #15
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Frag and Fuge cont.:

Some of the tools I use when building an acrylic tank:

Spring clamps. These are great for holding pieces of acrylic together while they are being welded.



Whenever acrylic parts are being welded, pressure is necessary to ensure a perfect joint. Weight can be used to apply that pressure. I've just taken normal building bricks and covered them with duct tape to make portable weights. Works great!



Other than a table saw, a router is the most important tool when working with flat acrylic. This is a 2-1/4HP model. It has plenty of power but is light enough to be handled easily:



Whenever two pieces of acrylic need to be welded at a 90 degree angle, this homemade jig works great. The spring clamps hold the acrylic part tightly to the jig:



I often have to include overflow weirs in a project:



Both of these tanks will need one. There are a number of ways to make them. Most ways have to do with a makeshift jig of some type. This can be difficult, and at times, dangerous. I own a woodworking tool from Leigh called a dovetail jig. The Leigh model is very convenient because you can add accessories to accomplish different jobs. One of the accessories I have is for creating finger joints. Finger joints are often used to hold the sides together when making boxes and drawers. The thing about 1/2 of a box joint is - it is exactly like the fingers we need to make a weir comb.

This is the Leigh jig with the finger joint accessory installed:



Here's a close up of the finger joint jig. You can see the piece of black acrylic stock with a number of fingers already cut. The protective paper is frayed where the cut was made, but the acrylic is cut very cleanly:



Together with a router, the jig makes perfect weir combs, every time. A two edge straight bit is inserted in the router:



Notice that the bit is in a small collar. A piece of acrylic is placed in the jig, under finger joint accessory. The extension on that collar follows the finger extensions on the jig. What comes out is a perfect weir comb:



To be continued ....


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Unread 03/19/2009, 10:58 AM   #16
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Tom
I think that's the first shot of your workshop that I've seen and I'm impressed. You seem to have more room than I do. I too have the Leigh jig that I've used many time to make dovetailed drawers (both through and blind). I didn't think of using it to make toothed overflows. I just ordered a couple from Aquacave but need to attach them to glass. Do you know if silicone works to attach plastic to glass? I see that you have the Performax 16 sander too. I really like mine but I think the belt that moves the stock through has lost its "tooth" as it sometimes slips and then the stock stops moving and you end up with a snipe.
I need to replace it.
I tried my first attempt at acrylic when I welded 1/2" dowels to a 1/4" sheet to support my rock above the sand bed. I used the thick cement and really like it. I didn't realize that you need pressure for a good joint. If you do that doesn't it squeeze out the cement from the joint that you so carefully spaced with needles?
I have one question (well the third actually but who's counting. ) I saw in an earlier photo the three plastic jugs for your dosing system. Mind telling me what size they are (gallons) and where you got them?
Thanks and keep up the good work.


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Click on my name for drop down list and select "Visit EnglishRebels Home Page" for my build thread.

Current Tank Info: 60x30x24 200G AO custom glass tank, basement equipment room, 30G and 55G Fuges, LifeReef sump & 30" skimmer.
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Unread 03/19/2009, 11:08 AM   #17
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Congrats on the split Tom!

I love your DIY. I could only dream of such tools and workshop.

Leonardo


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Unread 03/19/2009, 11:18 AM   #18
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Very nice shop.... or are you like me and just park your car outside in the cold?


congrats on the split. good luck with finishing those acrylic tanks.


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Current Tank Info: 220g Display, 70g sump, 35g frag, 50g fuge, 2x250w MH, 1x400w MH, 2x80w T5, 2x140w VHO Actinic
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Unread 03/19/2009, 11:37 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by EnglishRebel
... Do you know if silicone works to attach plastic to glass?

Alan, I would definitely use it for an overflow comb, yes.

I didn't realize that you need pressure for a good joint. If you do that doesn't it squeeze out the cement from the joint that you so carefully spaced with needles?

I should have clarified what I was trying to say alittle better. If you're using the pins method, if you don't have pressure you run the danger of the parts not maintaining proper contact. The weight/pressure prevents that from happening. You don't need pressure per se.

... I saw in an earlier photo the three plastic jugs for your dosing system. Mind telling me what size they are (gallons) and where you got them?

They're 2-1/2 gallon. Got them at bulkreefsupply.com



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Unread 03/19/2009, 11:39 AM   #20
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spsfreak, porthios, Leonardo, ReefEnabler - thanks everyone, very much appreciated.


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Unread 03/19/2009, 07:07 PM   #21
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:bowdown: We're not worthy... We're not worthy :bowdown:

Seriously, everything you do is A++. I am always speachless when I check in on your and Alan's attention to detail.


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Unread 03/19/2009, 07:49 PM   #22
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Dude were in Florida our Month of Winter is over. hahahhahh



[QUOTE]Originally posted by ReefEnabler
[B]Very nice shop.... or are you like me and just park your car outside in the cold?

I thought the needles were pulled out before the acrylic dries??? Or do you take them out when it dries than fill it with weldon??

I too caught your glimpse of your work area. Very sweet... When I grow up I wana be like you . hhahahahah


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Unread 03/19/2009, 08:16 PM   #23
mflamb
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Here's a great thread started about 6 years ago about the pins method of acrylic welding.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...he+pins+method


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Click on my red house to see my 390 and 300 build thread. Those are my last 2 tanks in Tampa. Now in Pasadena waiting to buy a house to set up my next tank....anemones and clowns...probably a 3x3 150 gallon.
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Unread 03/19/2009, 08:36 PM   #24
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I remember that one...thanks....


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Unread 03/19/2009, 10:33 PM   #25
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Yeah, that was started by Zephrant. He was one of my main heroes! I don't think he's posted in quite a while. Anyone know why we don't hear from him any more?


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