AlgaeFix Marine to control Hair Algae

[twistedfinn967]

I understand what you are saying. That is still a temporary solution. Won't the algae just end up on the glass instead of the sand?

[WmTasker]

Originally Posted by MellowReefer

Me too. Reduced phosphate to 0.00 (hanna), nitrate has always been zero, I spend so much time sifting it out of my sand every weekend. I've been considering AF but don't like the idea of adding this stuff without knowing long term consequences. Gradually going BB I guess.

How long has your sand bed been going? Did you go with a deep sand bed? The reason I ask is I have read and heard from other reefers that over time our sand beds can store nutrients in them (phosphates, nitrates, organic). Then after a while, they release them back into the aquarium. Maybe the algae is growing on the sand cause what it needs isn't in the water but coming from the sand. The nutrients leaking might just be low enough that you cant test for it, or it is getting used up as fast as it is leaked out. This is why I have had a Bare Bottom for years and this is my first tank that I have had an algae problem. Only to find out that it wasn't my husbandry but but an algae that I broght in on another rock. Bryosis.

[Posseidon]

Now that the GHA are almost gone from my rocks, I'm not sure if I'm dealing with GHA or Dinoflagellates on my substrate. They do also come in brown and greenish-brown color.
My substrate pic is in one of comments above.

I have also noticed some stringy brown stuff with bubbles in my overflow box. I tried to get a pic with my phone. What do you think is it?





Tanks with GHA issue are mostly running with very low nutrients in water column since the large GHA population consume them. I'm guessing that such tanks are probably low on denitrifying bacteria population too. And when we take out GHA using AF, other nuisance algae like Dinos could sprout due to less competition.

Has anyone tried AF to fight Dinoflagellates? Is AF effective against dinos?

[MellowReefer]

Originally Posted by WmTasker

How long has your sand bed been going? Did you go with a deep sand bed? The reason I ask is I have read and heard from other reefers that over time our sand beds can store nutrients in them (phosphates, nitrates, organic). Then after a while, they release them back into the aquarium. Maybe the algae is growing on the sand cause what it needs isn't in the water but coming from the sand. The nutrients leaking might just be low enough that you cant test for it, or it is getting used up as fast as it is leaked out. This is why I have had a Bare Bottom for years and this is my first tank that I have had an algae problem. Only to find out that it wasn't my husbandry but but an algae that I broght in on another rock. Bryosis.

My tank is just over two years old, very shallow sand bed (no more than 1"). When I first had the problem and I started to sift the algae from the sand I could see clouds of detritus that would then get picked up by my skimmer and caught in my filter pad. Now that I've been sifting it out like this every week the water doesn't cloud much at all. I also blow the rocks off and my whole sump to make sure I don't have much detritus anywhere.

[MellowReefer]

Originally Posted by twistedfinn967

I understand what you are saying. That is still a temporary solution. Won't the algae just end up on the glass instead of the sand?

In my case I have a foxface and tang who keep the rocks and glass clean but they don't want a mouthful of sand. Snails don't eat if off the sand either IME.

[accordsirh22]

i used algaefix to combat some HA as well. it started to melt my xenia and bothered some other softies. ime, phosguard or the like is much better at phosphate/algae control.

[Posseidon]

The good news is that 99% of GHA is gone. The bad news is that, I'm most certain that I'm now dealing with a small outbreak of dinos on my gravel and overflow box. Now, dinoflagellates are algae too. However, I did not notice anyone use AF to fight dinos? Please share your experience if you have.

Cliff, any idea based on your knowledge?

[edsbeaker]

I had been dealing with a GHA outbreak for a couple of months. I did catch it early, but just wanted to report another success story for Algaefix. It took 5 doses, and cleared it up without any negative affect to anything else in the tank. I plan on dosing it once a week for maintenance. I am very happy that I found this thread! Thanks for the info.

[kjboggs]

Me lta anemone was fine, but it did aggravate it some and it did move a couple times while dosing. But when I stopped dosing has not moved since and has been happy for months. I did use the freshwater version.

[wildman926]

I had hair algae for at least 8 months. I used AlgaeFix, and it was gone in 10 days. I put in an ATS, and I have not had a return of the hair algae in the dt. I just clean it out of the ATS now. All of my corals have rebounded. AlgaeFix had no affect on any corals or fish.

[bundybear1981]

Another win for algaefix! Was starting to get a substantial issue with GHA, had tried another product (Algone from Biotec - was working but also killing my caulerpa as well)

Switched to Algaefix, dosed amount as per instructions. 1st dose Fri, did a second dose on Saturday, 3rd dose on Monday and did a 4th dose today, Wednesday. Algae is almost gone with only a few small tufts on some rock. The rest has either fallen off or came off with a light brush/rub. The caulerpa in the sump isnt affected, also has shown improvement from clearing of GHA in the refuge.

I didn't change lighting cycles, kept the same feeding amounts, left the skimmer running as per normal. Its been pulling larger amounts the normal of skimmate (emptying ever second day vs once a month)

No other inhabitants were affected either, xenia still has full extension, corallimorphs still growing and elegance still doing well (I injured it a bit with the syphon hose)

I recommended this for anyone else with GHA issues. Excellent product!

[Posseidon]

Just to update. AF definitely took out the GHA as per the experiences shared above by many.

I continued 3-days routine up to 12 or 13 doses. I then did weekly dose a couple of times. And at times, didn't even do it for a while and then did 3-days routine for a week. I mean I was not consistent, yet I don't have GHA trouble anymore.

However, since GHA is gone, Dinoflagellates are trying to take over my gravel bed. I've had diatoms in the past. But this is my first encounter with Dinos. I'm not sure if AF works against Dinos. It doesn't seem like it can. Can someone post link to what actually worked to fight them. I'm sure a lot of people would run into issues like Cyanos, Dinos etc when we take out their competing GHA with AF.

[mos90]

AF will not help with dinos,cyano. i have had some sort of dino/cyano that was there even when i had the h/a. the h/a is gone now but the other still persists.

dinos are very difficult to remove if that is actually what it is. ive heard ultra algae x works good for dinos but it can be very hard on corals.

[wildman926]

Originally Posted by Posseidon

Just to update. AF definitely took out the GHA as per the experiences shared above by many.

I continued 3-days routine up to 12 or 13 doses. I then did weekly dose a couple of times. And at times, didn't even do it for a while and then did 3-days routine for a week. I mean I was not consistent, yet I don't have GHA trouble anymore.

However, since GHA is gone, Dinoflagellates are trying to take over my gravel bed. I've had diatoms in the past. But this is my first encounter with Dinos. I'm not sure if AF works against Dinos. It doesn't seem like it can. Can someone post link to what actually worked to fight them. I'm sure a lot of people would run into issues like Cyanos, Dinos etc when we take out their competing GHA with AF.

You have a nutrient export issue. Until you deal with that, the nuisance "___" will take over and feed on it. There are many ways to do this. I find ATS's to be the most natural, and cheapest. Use a good skimmer also.

[volk23]

Algaefix worked like a charm for me.

[oneilwiz]

I see that it works for everyone, I will try this too .

[oneilwiz]

Since my last post I a, on my third dose of algae fix, I dose 9Ml for my total water volume of 90G. I must say I have seen greet improvement as I also added 6 turbo snails as well. Unfortunately I never have luck with turbo snails so I only have one lifted. I continue to do my 20 gallon weekly water change. GFO and skimmer still running.

What I have observed is that the algae started to get loose and floats around in the tank. I siphoned out and brush away algae with a tooth brush. Started dosing July 11,2014. Will keep you guys posted.

[geofi]

HI all,

Just a thought, lookgn at the many varied methods fro controlling this pest, and drawing from my pond experiences I wondered if anyone had looked at barley straw! In garden ponds this is used extensively to control algal growth and in particular hair algea types. I have some in our 1000 gal pond and it works fine (I soon know when its time to replace it).

Monks in Britain used it since middle ages to control algea in carp ponds, and it has ben used in ornamental and fish ponds ever since.

Just wondered if anyone had heard of it being tried in marine environment, and what the outcome may be. For most of us a small bundle in the sump would be fine, based on water volume alone.

I believe it works through releasing tiny quantities of H2o2 into the water that the algea doesn't like but the fish (and freshwater inverts) are fine with. It can be overdosed but takes some considerable effort. Downside is from dry straw going in takes a few weeks to start working (as the straw breaks down). You can by barley straw extract here in uK as a liquid.

Any thoughts, or do I start experimenting!




Extract from - http://www.clearpond.com/docs/barley_article.html


The decomposition is temperature dependent, being faster in the warmer waters of summer than in the cold waters of winter. Bacteria begin by breaking down the Lignin, which is the starchy material that makes straw stiff, and other cell wall components of the barley. After about 2 weeks the active microbes change from bacteria dominant to fungi dominant. As this process continues humus develops, (rotting) which is then transformed into a humic acid.

The humic acids are referred to as Dissolved Organic Carbon, DOC. DOC is a natural part of many fresh and saltwater ecosystems. As the acid leaches into the water it interacts with sunlight and dissolved oxygen and becomes unstable, decomposing into 2 single oxygen radicals. Thereafter, the oxygen radicals form a super-oxide radical, which then forms hydrogen peroxide in water. The hydrogen peroxide is more stable and long lasting in freshwater. The breaking down process of the barley then forms a continuous supply of the right form of DOC whereby the oxidizing agents can be continuously produced.

According to the CAPM, "Concentration of hydrogen peroxide of only 2 ppm peroxide have been demonstrated to inhibit the growth of algae." Some reports determined that barley straw might also act as a clarifier by flocculating fine particles in water.

[Amphiprion]

Originally Posted by wildman926

You have a nutrient export issue. Until you deal with that, the nuisance "___" will take over and feed on it. There are many ways to do this. I find ATS's to be the most natural, and cheapest. Use a good skimmer also.

Unfortunately, with at least some species of dinoflagellates, nutrients cannot be lowered enough without causing problems with everything else. The particular kind I've dealt with killed off an algae scrubber within a matter of a couple of days. Nutrients were undetectably low in the water and corals, etc. were suffering (or dying) for it--all without affecting dinoflagellates. I was only able to control (not eliminate) them by stunting them with very lengthy blackouts and allowing enough nutrients to be present to give them some competition. I also have and still occasionally struggle with Lyngbya, which also doesn't seem to respond to lowered nutrients enough to eliminate it.

Algaefix Marine will not do anything for dinoflagellates.

[Aquarist007]

[QUOTE=Amphiprion

Algaefix Marine will not do anything for dinoflagellates.[/QUOTE]

I agree. I had both bryopsis and Dino's break out in one of my tanks. The algae fix helped with the bryopsis but not the Dino's
Weekly vacuuming of the sand bed for 2 months finally got rid of them

[oneilwiz]

Final update

I no longer have any visible GHA, on the completion of my 6th dose I noticed tremendous improvement. Dosing my 9th dose this morning there is 0 GHA visible. Weekly 5 gallon water change is carried out every week. Over the past few weeks my Radion light intensity was dropped to 35% as well as lighting period to only 6hrs.

Side effects:

-No side effects where noticed no corals or invertebrates died.
-Skimmer pulled a lot of green waste from the water Column
-Noticed green film on my power head and return pipe (could be because they are close to my lights) not sure

Future plans
Continue to dose weekly instead of every three days
Verify my nutrient level is low
Continue to test phosphate level
Increase photoperiod and intensity of LEDs
Stop dosing Algaefix to see what will happen.

[quiksilverchin]

I saw some people saying that they shut off the skimmer. Is that necessary?

[bertoni]

I would keep the skimmer running, but it's possible that AlgaeFix is skimmable. Do the instructions say to turn off the skimmer? If so, I definitely would do that.

[Larry Soderblom]

If you are dosing vodka does that negatively interfere with the AlgaeFix?

[Decadence]

Originally Posted by Larry Soderblom

If you are dosing vodka does that negatively interfere with the AlgaeFix?

No