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Unread 01/02/2010, 02:43 AM   #1276
Daimyo68
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Jgoal55:
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I dont know if this matters, but the siphon channel and the open channel elbows in the overflow box are at the same level.....should the open channel elbow be higher?
They can be at the same level without issue. If I remember correctly, BeanAnimal's are at the same level. I just finished my BA setup, all at the same level, no problems at all.

Quote:
Also, when I finally tune the siphon channel to where its silent, it seems that virtually no water at all comes down the open channel, thats what should be happening correct?
Yes. If any water at all is flowing down the open Channel, you will not even hear it.
The Open Channel (right) standpipe is open to the air via the airline attached to it. Because air is allowed in, the standpipe will not siphon or gurgle. The excess flow that is not being handled by the Siphon (middle) standpipe quetly flows through the Open Channel (right) standpipe. Because the flow is very low, very little air makes its way to the sump.

Jordan: I believe your talking about how far down should you drill your holes. If thats the case, a general "rule of thumb" is 2x the size of the bulkhead hole. So for your 1.5" bulkheads, the holes should be 2 3/8" apart, and 2 3/8 down from the top edge of the glass, not the trim. Someone verify that?


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Last edited by Daimyo68; 01/02/2010 at 02:48 AM.
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Unread 01/02/2010, 01:02 PM   #1277
BeanAnimal
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Jgoal:

The system works fine if the siphon and open channel wiers are at the same height, but if you can set the open channel standpipe higher than the siphon, you will help ensure that the siphon starts first.

If you decide to drill holes in the standpipes, the only one that needs drilled is the siphon standpipe. Drill the holes just above the waterline of the sump (as observed during normal operation).


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Unread 01/03/2010, 01:44 AM   #1278
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great thanks....ill give this a shot tomorrow or monday......thanks again for the help.


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Unread 01/03/2010, 09:35 AM   #1279
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hey beananimal - can i use this sort of pipe without issues? i have no idea if any of the various types of pipe are more or less inert relative to sea water. i will be running things like ozone on this large system. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...4369&catid=730


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Unread 01/03/2010, 11:39 AM   #1280
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So I was looking into a Bean drain system for my 125 RR, and have a question. Since in theory, a full siphon can accomodate a huge amount of drain capacity, is this set-up a possibility.

I have a standard 125 6' Reef ready, with 2 overflows, 2 bulkheads per overflow. So I was thinking using one of the current return bulkheads for the full siphon, the currentdrain in the OTHER bulkhead as the regular dynamic drain, and the 2 other bulkheads as the emergency overflows. My tank is supplied with a Mag-18.

CJ

edit, my return lines would be plumbed behind the tank, and would peek over the tank and hang on the back, then would be terminated with the aimable locline returns.


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Unread 01/03/2010, 06:31 PM   #1281
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Hey Bean I have a quick question:

I've been using your overflow design for almost a year now and things have been going swimmingly.

However, over the last two weeks I've noticed the open channel isn't working. When the water level rises to the height where the airline would normally start to take in water and start the siphon it doesn't do anything and therefore doesn't start to siphon. I've checked for blockages and there isn't anything in the air line or the open channel plumbing. I don't understand what could be going on. Any explanations?


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Unread 01/04/2010, 09:58 PM   #1282
Jgoal55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeanAnimal View Post
Jgoal:

The system works fine if the siphon and open channel wiers are at the same height, but if you can set the open channel standpipe higher than the siphon, you will help ensure that the siphon starts first.

If you decide to drill holes in the standpipes, the only one that needs drilled is the siphon standpipe. Drill the holes just above the waterline of the sump (as observed during normal operation).
Hey Bean.

I drilled the holes in the main siphon just as you explained right above the sump water line and I also raised the level of the open channel weir for kicks. Still, when I restart the system the open channel is draining significantly more water than how it runs when I tune the system to be quiet.

Every time I restart I get a significant amount of noise. I can tune the system back to quiet each time as well, but that could get annoying...lol. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help!


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Unread 01/04/2010, 10:02 PM   #1283
Jgoal55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian View Post
Hey Bean I have a quick question:

I've been using your overflow design for almost a year now and things have been going swimmingly.

However, over the last two weeks I've noticed the open channel isn't working. When the water level rises to the height where the airline would normally start to take in water and start the siphon it doesn't do anything and therefore doesn't start to siphon. I've checked for blockages and there isn't anything in the air line or the open channel plumbing. I don't understand what could be going on. Any explanations?
Canadian, this happened to me once but not on this style overflow. It happened on a Calfo overflow where all of the sudden it stopped handling the same flow and there was absolutely no blockage.

Lo and behold, it turned out to be the most obvious solution. I had accidentally turned a ball valve on the drain line which caused it to slow down and obviously the pump kept going at the same rate.....hence the sump kept filling up slowly but surely.

If you have a ball valve or gate valve on that open channel you may want to check that. I know thats kind of a dumb obvious suggestion, but sometimes those are the ones that escape us the most in this hobby.


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Unread 01/04/2010, 10:17 PM   #1284
Daimyo68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jgoal55 View Post
I drilled the holes in the main siphon just as you explained right above the sump water line and I also raised the level of the open channel weir for kicks. Still, when I restart the system the open channel is draining significantly more water than how it runs when I tune the system to be quiet.

Every time I restart I get a significant amount of noise. I can tune the system back to quiet each time as well, but that could get annoying...lol. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help!
This happens to me also, but after a few minutes to maybe 10 at the most, the system adjusts back to normal, all silent.

I still can't get over how quite it is.


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Unread 01/04/2010, 10:18 PM   #1285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jgoal55 View Post
Hey Bean.

I drilled the holes in the main siphon just as you explained right above the sump water line and I also raised the level of the open channel weir for kicks. Still, when I restart the system the open channel is draining significantly more water than how it runs when I tune the system to be quiet.

Every time I restart I get a significant amount of noise. I can tune the system back to quiet each time as well, but that could get annoying...lol. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help!
Do you have photos of the system? Is the open channel a straight shot to the sump? Are you sure that the open channel wier is at least the same height as the siphon and not lower?


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Unread 01/04/2010, 10:38 PM   #1286
Jgoal55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daimyo68 View Post
This happens to me also, but after a few minutes to maybe 10 at the most, the system adjusts back to normal, all silent.

I still can't get over how quite it is.
yeah mine doesnt seem to do that yet....

also, i just noticed that when I drilled the holes in the main channel siphon line, its causing a pretty loud gurgling noise in the sump area......Did I drill too big, too many????? I went 1/4" and about 5 holes.


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Unread 01/04/2010, 11:16 PM   #1287
Jgoal55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jgoal55 View Post
Hey Bean.

I drilled the holes in the main siphon just as you explained right above the sump water line and I also raised the level of the open channel weir for kicks. Still, when I restart the system the open channel is draining significantly more water than how it runs when I tune the system to be quiet.

Every time I restart I get a significant amount of noise. I can tune the system back to quiet each time as well, but that could get annoying...lol. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help!
Ok, I completely lied. lol. Afer a bit more tuning and starting and restarting, it seems that the open channel is no longer taking in more water after start up and purging.

It seems that drilling the holes worked and that raising the open channel weir by itself did not (I tried this first then drilled the holes). However, both solutions combined ensure that the main channel starts first. So that is working.

Of course, with my luck, when one thing works something else doesn't.....what i said above about the holes in the main channel siphon line causing a very loud gurgling noise in the sump area is still true......the question then remains.....Did I drill too big, too many????? I went 1/4" and about 5 holes.


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Unread 01/05/2010, 02:20 AM   #1288
Jgoal55
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Newest issue......I removed the section of pipe that I drilled the holes into because of the noise they were making. I replaced with a shorter piece of pipe that is only about a half inch under the water line instead of 1.5"

When I did this the system restarted fine.....but after running for about 15 minutes or so, for no reason I can pinpoint, it kicked into hyper mode and the siphon began to work too fast to where it almost drained the overflow box and it began to suck in air. Almost as if I opened the gate valve more.

When this happened I tuned it back down to allow for the overflow to fill back up. Once it did, it was perfectly silent and everything was great.

And then I restarted again.......and sure enough, this time the Open channel took in more water than its supposed to and its gurgling.

So in summary, when I drilled the holes in the siphon pipe just above the sump water level, everything started and restarted fine but the noise from that pipe was too much. Still, this is the only scenario where the system has restarted as its supposed to each time.

Sorry to post so repeatedly in this thread but I really appreciate the help.


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Unread 01/05/2010, 06:56 AM   #1289
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Please post photos of your setup or an explanation of your standpipes. Are they straight shots into the sump? What size are the pipes and fittings?

It sounds like you may have a small leak in your siphon standpipe causing it to be unstable.


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Unread 01/06/2010, 03:14 AM   #1290
Jgoal55
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Hey Bean....thanks...here are some pics. I do have a tiny leak in my return line, but I have found nothing in in the main siphon channel.

The Drain pipes are 1.5" and same for any fittings used. As you can see from the pics, its not quite a straight shot, but we did try to minimize any use of 90 degree elbows. We used all 45's for all the drains.










I did add the airline to the open channel after this shot:


Where the pipes end up, a little less than 1.5" under the sump operating level.



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Last edited by Misled; 10/30/2017 at 07:37 PM.
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Unread 01/06/2010, 10:13 PM   #1291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jb61264 View Post
I added a piece of glass cut to the exact dimension of the top of my overflow (36" x 4")...corners are sanded down so they are not sharp...painted side that faces up with Krylon Fusion black spray paint and found the clear "bumpers" used for cabinents, etc...put those in the corners of the "lid" piece of glass and it works PERFECT...water flows through perfectly and there is no way for fish to get in anymore as its too thin

A "required" must-add feature to this DIY project in my opinion
Got a picture of that?


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Unread 01/06/2010, 10:20 PM   #1292
teesquare
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or picture"s"...??????
T


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Unread 01/06/2010, 10:53 PM   #1293
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Ok everyone I am need of some great thoughts on how I can make a dual Overflow when I cant drill the tank and only have about 2" or so behind the tank.

Shoot me some Ideas


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Unread 01/06/2010, 10:58 PM   #1294
teesquare
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Put an external overflow on the END instead of the back of the tank. And - are you talking about a BEanAnimal type overflow?
T


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Unread 01/06/2010, 11:06 PM   #1295
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Quote:
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Put an external overflow on the END instead of the back of the tank. And - are you talking about a BEanAnimal type overflow?
T
I had thought about going on the side but there is a problem with having a false canopy that cant be removed.

What is the BeanAnimal Type overflow?


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Unread 01/06/2010, 11:10 PM   #1296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOBrien View Post
I had thought about going on the side but there is a problem with having a false canopy that cant be removed.

What is the BeanAnimal Type overflow?
That is what this entire thread is about. Silent and Failsafe Overflow System: The BeanAnimal Type.

Jim


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Unread 01/06/2010, 11:12 PM   #1297
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So basically find the first post of this entire thread and read it to understand.


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Unread 01/06/2010, 11:13 PM   #1298
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That is what this entire thread is about. Silent and Failsafe Overflow System: The BeanAnimal Type.

Jim
Well I guess I am wrong for placing my question in this thread then since I cant drill my tank!!!!!


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Unread 01/06/2010, 11:41 PM   #1299
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Not being able to modify the tank, would make it a bit difficult, no doubt. 2" behind the tank, will make just about everything else a bit difficult also. They make HOB overflows, but fitting in 2" I am not SURE about. Teesquare had the solution, hang it off the end. Redesign the canopy to make it happen.

Jim


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Unread 01/07/2010, 07:28 AM   #1300
teesquare
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And - suspend the lights rather than have the canopy sit on the tank.

Thewre are some advantages:
1. You can use a pulley system to lift, haold, and lower the suspended hood

2. By suspending the hood, the tank is easier to keep from overheating.



T


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