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Unread 10/26/2018, 04:47 PM   #9826
Vinny Kreyling
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Dry fitting could be the answer you are looking for.


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250 gallon mixed reef, 2 Reefbreeder's Photon V 2, Deepwater BLDC 12, DAS EX-3 Skimmer, MTC mini cal, 2-3/4" Sea Swirls, Aquacontroller & 6 Tunze pumps.
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Unread 11/19/2018, 01:47 PM   #9827
matthihat
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Hello!
After a 10 year break I’m finally back in the hobby again!

What sizeing of the pvc tubing would you guys recommend me? I’m planning on running a 23 g DT and a 20 g sump. I have an Aquabee Up 2000 that delivers 500 gph and I’m planning to use this as the return pump. The nozzle of the return pump is 16 mm inner and 22 mm outer fittings.

Really looking forward to get started in this awesome hobby again!


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Unread 11/19/2018, 05:24 PM   #9828
Vinny Kreyling
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With a max of under 40 gallons I would follow the pump output size with hose.


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Unread 01/04/2019, 07:10 AM   #9829
JRunyon21
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Getting ready to set up my 220 with a Beanimal overflow. The Weir box will run the entire length of the tank. I have read through and keyword searched through a lot of this thread but still have some questions. Thanks in advance for the help.

1. I plan to drill the center of my 1" bullheads at 3.5" below the top of the glass. How far down should the notches in my weir box be cut? Down to 2.5" from the top of the glass?

Another way to ask is how far apart should the center of my bulkheads and the bottom of the weird notches be?

2. Where is in the world would I find a 1" slip x 1-1/4" street 90? Can I just use a 1" street 90?

3. Should the bulkheads be slip x slip? Thread x Thread? Mix? If mix, which side thread/slip? If slip, should I use Oatey transition cement? If thread, should I use teflon?


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Unread 01/04/2019, 07:53 AM   #9830
lapin
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Bulkheads. The side that faces inside the tank do not have to have a tight seal. The gasket against the glass takes care of that. For ease of removal slip is usually used. For the outside you need a tight seal, so you do not have a water leak. Threaded is what I use. I use Teflon tape. It works for me. I just dont like the Teflon paste.


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Unread 01/04/2019, 08:01 AM   #9831
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Weir teeth. The depth of the teeth will dictate the height of the water in your tank. The amount of teeth and the spacing plus your return pump size will dictate the amount of resistance that will buildup against the teeth also effecting the water height in your tank. This will also effect the drain back into your sump when the return pump is off.


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Unread 01/04/2019, 08:03 AM   #9832
lapin
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As far as the holes, I think your plumbing pipe size and arrangement will dictate that.


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Unread 01/23/2019, 03:20 PM   #9833
matthihat
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Finally put my system together but my siphon is introducing air into the sump. I have no fittings leaking air. I think my return pump provides too little flow though. Rated 240-400 gph. Can this be it? Gate valve is almost close.


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Unread 01/23/2019, 03:27 PM   #9834
Zalick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthihat View Post
Finally put my system together but my siphon is introducing air into the sump. I have no fittings leaking air. I think my return pump provides too little flow though. Rated 240-400 gph. Can this be it? Gate valve is almost close.
What height of head pressure on the pump and what size pipes are you using for the overflow?

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Unread 01/23/2019, 04:15 PM   #9835
matthihat
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Height of head pressure is around 5 feet w several elbows for the return. My drains are 1”. Thinking about buying a Jecod DCP2500 or maybe the 5000. I’m not sure on How much water my return pump must be able to push!


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Unread 01/23/2019, 04:26 PM   #9836
matthihat
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Ohh, and my DT is only 30 gallon


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Unread 01/23/2019, 04:31 PM   #9837
DougSupreme
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Better to oversize the pump and need to throttle it back, than to buy a smaller pump and need more flow....

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Unread 01/24/2019, 12:46 PM   #9838
Zalick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthihat View Post
Height of head pressure is around 5 feet w several elbows for the return. My drains are 1”. Thinking about buying a Jecod DCP2500 or maybe the 5000. I’m not sure on How much water my return pump must be able to push!
Seems likely that you are not returning enough water to fill the 1" drain below the valve. A 1" fill siphon can handle about 960 gph.

I could not find a head loss chart for your pump but it seems like it would pump about 250gph at 5'. If that's the case, 1" seems like it would be too big.


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Current Tank Info: Me v Dinos - I'm winning for now...
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Unread 01/24/2019, 03:16 PM   #9839
matthihat
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Yes I’m thinking that is the problem as well. If I would have a stronger pump and maybe the valve half open would it still pull around 960 gph or is it less? I’m thinking about which pump to buy.


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Unread 01/24/2019, 03:23 PM   #9840
DougSupreme
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For the money, if you are going with a Jebao, I would just go with a 12000. It's not much more, but it gives you a ton of variability

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Unread 01/24/2019, 03:23 PM   #9841
Zalick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthihat View Post
Yes I’m thinking that is the problem as well. If I would have a stronger pump and maybe the valve half open would it still pull around 960 gph or is it less? I’m thinking about which pump to buy.
If you have the valve half open on a 1" pipe, it will pull less than 960gph. How much less? I don't know.

I like my sumps lower flow so detritus settles. I run about 2x total volume through my sump. My sump is 100g so about 7x sump volume. I have a 400 gallon system and my return is about 750gph.

If I had your system, I would only want about 200gph max on my return and use 1/2" for the drains.

If you are pushing 900gph on your return, that's 30x total volume through your sump. If you have a 10g sump, then you are running 90x of its volume. That's a fast sump.


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300g custom acrylic from James 72x36x27, 4 Mitras Lx7 &6 a360, 2 Stream 3s, C2C beananimal. 100g sump, Jebao DCP- 8000 (Vectra M1 died) -> 114w aquauv -> SRO 5000ext , varios8 return

Current Tank Info: Me v Dinos - I'm winning for now...

Last edited by Zalick; 01/24/2019 at 03:53 PM.
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Unread 02/09/2019, 09:49 PM   #9842
hbash
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Hi. I have had and been using a Bean Animal Overflow for several years and it works fine and dandy. However, now they have these really neat rollermat filters for mechanical filtration. Is it possible to setup my overflow to use one?


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Unread 02/10/2019, 07:18 AM   #9843
Sisterlimonpot
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Quote:
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Hi. I have had and been using a Bean Animal Overflow for several years and it works fine and dandy. However, now they have these really neat rollermat filters for mechanical filtration. Is it possible to setup my overflow to use one?
To me it seems straight forward. In lieu of filter socks the rollermat would take its place. it might require some ingenuity but I don't see a reason why not.

What concerns do you have?


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Unread 02/10/2019, 11:53 AM   #9844
hbash
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Placement and plumbing

If you're familiar with the placement of the return pipes (other than the emergency), you will notice that they are submerged. That affects back pressure and noise cancellation.

So, how would you use the rollermat when the water feeds it from above?


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Unread 04/11/2019, 02:55 PM   #9845
Carl68
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bean animal setup

hi community, regarding bean animal ; i found this diagram ; is this an accurate diagram of the setup?
thanks



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Unread 04/11/2019, 04:47 PM   #9846
Vinny Kreyling
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The Theiling unit inlet is on the side.


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Unread 04/11/2019, 06:38 PM   #9847
Djbeasley05
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I agree. I’ve set up only bean animals on all of my systems. Only truly works like a bean animal if the siphon is submerged under the water line and the air can purge from it. If it’s not submerged it will never become a true full siphon


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Unread 04/22/2019, 12:21 PM   #9848
BeanAnimal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djbeasley05 View Post
I agree. I’ve set up only bean animals on all of my systems. Only truly works like a bean animal if the siphon is submerged under the water line and the air can purge from it. If it’s not submerged it will never become a true full siphon
If course it will


So a few notes:

If the flow volume is low and and the siphon standpipe is a very large diameter, then you are correct, the area between the valve and the sump may not product a true siphon. In this case submerging the end of the siphon (thus preventing atmospheric pressure from destroying the vacuum) will maintain the siphon. At higher flow volumes this does not become a problem.

We sometimes run into an issue at lower flows, where the volume is not sufficient to purge the standpipe of air. Drilling a small hole or two just above the (running) sump water line can fix this. The small hole will allow the standpipe to purge the air, but is not large enough to fully interfere with the siphon.

An alternative fix would be to place the control valve closer to the sump. This will ensure that he entire length of the standpipe (down to the valve) is always under full siphon.

Cheers...

-Bean


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Unread 04/24/2019, 12:28 PM   #9849
Carl68
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bean animal setup

Dear Bean: this Friday i am finishing up the plumbing (hopefully) on my 150g. I have a couple of questions: My tank is bottom drilled and with the bulkheads will support 3 drains 1.5" each. Since it is an internal overflow i wont be incorporating the T and the screw top PVC standpipe just the 3 returns with elbows (primary, secondary, emergency). each will have an elbow (possibly with strainer) the third being upturned (the third will be 3/4" from weir. all three will be in a row same height. with the emergency being upturned so in effect higher. the secondary will have a hole drilled in the top of elbow (what size drill bit do you reccomend?). the sump is in the stand below; the stand is a little taller than normal (maybe 2 feet taller), my pump is the large varios 8 adjustable. and i have a gate valve on the primary only. So with that small hole it will break the siphon and only a small amount of water will flow into that pipe? should all the pipe be glued within the overflow?
do you see any problems?
grateful for your input
PS i think your site is down.
thanks Carl


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Unread 05/20/2019, 07:53 PM   #9850
mr9iron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeanAnimal View Post
If course it will





So a few notes:



If the flow volume is low and and the siphon standpipe is a very large diameter, then you are correct, the area between the valve and the sump may not product a true siphon. In this case submerging the end of the siphon (thus preventing atmospheric pressure from destroying the vacuum) will maintain the siphon. At higher flow volumes this does not become a problem.



We sometimes run into an issue at lower flows, where the volume is not sufficient to purge the standpipe of air. Drilling a small hole or two just above the (running) sump water line can fix this. The small hole will allow the standpipe to purge the air, but is not large enough to fully interfere with the siphon.



An alternative fix would be to place the control valve closer to the sump. This will ensure that he entire length of the standpipe (down to the valve) is always under full siphon.



Cheers...



-Bean


Bean,

I have a question for you. In my new setup I’ve discovered that going from 3/4 from the external box and upsizing the pipe is not working. I have my Spears gate valve about 2 feet above the sump.

I feel that I am not getting a full siphon due to the height of my gate valve and the upsize of my pipe.

Would lowering the gate valve to the sump allow the 1 inch pipe to fill and create a full siphon?


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