Stockman Standpipe--New, Easier Design

[jimsar]

I finally cut the reducer using a hack saw on a mitre box. I marked it using Vincerama2's paper trick. It kept on slipping a bit, so in an effort to have a better grip, I inserted the 2" coupling and PRESTO, I found myself a better guide. I just rotated as I cut, nicked the coupling a couple of times, but it was a fairly true cut.

So, you folks attempting to cut for the first time, use the 2" coupling as a guide. You won't even need a mitre box, but a vise will definitely help.

Jim

[Vincerama2]

I have found that with Ken's NEW standpipe design, it doesn't flow water fast enough through the top. It originally took some mental acrobatics to figure out what he was talking about with the new design, but it made sense when I had the pieces in hand. However, with his new design, the water flows into the top of the pvc tube, and has to bypass the "spokes" of the coupler. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong, but I don't get as much flow as I thought I would. So over the weekend, I'm going to add a cutout in the body of the pipe, like the original design.

Luckily, the design is such that you can just take it apart and stick in another precut pipe (with a side window cut out!)

V

[zeppelin]

I put this together last night on my new prop tank (50 gal. Rubbermaid). What a difference. Very little noise at all now. Thanks man. Pretty cool design.

Larry

[eric4usa]

I wouldn't say it's "easier" than your previous plan with the elbow joint.
It is definately a space saver though for people with smaller overflows and looks a little more professional.
Too bad you can't patent plumbing ideas like that.
Thanks for sharing!

[kstockman]

I cut the spokes so that none of them are connected to maximize the flow.

If the design does not work then just build the original.

The only real benefit to this design is that it will fit over a preexisting pipe. Since it just slides on, you can remove it to clean it--not that I ever clean mine.

[Vincerama2]

?? How did you cut the spokes off?

Maybe I have done something different, or bought a different slip reduction fitting (I bought two of them from HD, each was a 2->1 reduction bushing, but only one could have worked.

I'll have to take a look at mine over the weekend...in anycase, it's easily modifiable once you figure out what is going on and what you are trying to achieve.

V

[jarhead]

Ken,
Will this design work with a 1 1/4" standpipe? I currently use a Dursos and would like to try your design.

[Vincerama2]

Hey, I found my flow problem, it was not the standpipe, but the U-tube I was using! I was using two 3/4" and two 1/2" U-tubes. (yes, I used 4 u-tubes for siphon!) They sucked, so I made a big 1" one. It was not enough so I put a U-tube from another overflow I have and it flows nicely.

The problem was my incompetence at making large U-tubes. I used PVX and used 90 degree elbows for the 3/4" tubes, and melted and bent the 1/2" ones! I guess you really need the nice smooth U bend (not 2 90 degree bends) and a nice wide siphppn tube to make sure you keep your weir working!
(Oh, unless you are using a powerhead like many HOB filters that have square siphons!)


(I'm using a weir style overflow, not a drilled tank)

V

[kstockman]

IMO 1.25" should be fine.

[jarhead]

Originally posted by kstockman
IMO 1.25" should be fine.

So instead of the 2"-1" reducer I hope I can find a 2"-1.25".
Since I have a 1" bulkhead, maybe it's just easier to replace the 1"-1.25" male adapter with a 1" male adapter use a 1" standpipe.

[jimsar]

I don't understand why, but Durso supposedly works better if it has a 1.25 standpipe on a 1" bulkhead. I wonder if Stockman will also see an improvement with a 1.25 standpipe?

Parts might be harder to find. I'll check at Lowe's tomorrow.

Jim

[jarhead]

Originally posted by jimsar
I don't understand why, but Durso supposedly works better if it has a 1.25 standpipe on a 1" bulkhead.

Everytime I shutdown the pump, the Dursos have a problem restarting. My last water change, the tank almost overflowed. That's why I want to try stockman design.

[Vincerama2]

You must be getting some kind of vapour lock going on. Maybe when you start your pump, if you could somehow lift the sump outlet above the water, you might be able to avoif this...?

V

[Brian Koyama]

My Stockman pipes work flawlessly so far© I've done numerous tests where I shut down the tank power to see how much water flows back into the sump from my tank and it is very minimal© No over flows so far© And I still can't believe how quiet they are© My SQWD is louder than my Stockman's© I can put my ear up to the over flow and I still can't hear any water flowing down to my sump© This is one of the best pieces of equipment on my tank!
Thanks again for your help with this Ken©
Brian

[Finally!]

Hi to all....I have a quick question....Does it make a diffrence if the coupling is reduced in size? Lets say reduce the coupling end where the cap goes? I am limited in space in my overflow because I have pvc pipe going from one side of the overflow to the other for my spray bars (I hope this makes sense). So I was thinking this would work....Any feed back will help...

Thanks,
Jonath

[Vincerama2]

It probably won't matter. Is the reduced part underwater, or "in the air" If it is not submerged, then size probably doesn't matter....and there is only one way to find out...! (Luckily, it's only about 2 bucks worth of plastic if it doesn't work ou!)

V

[Finally!]

You are right, there is only one way to find out...I think I am going to try this weekend....Last weekend I bought everything to make the standpipe but I didn't get around to it....I will post the results then...

Thanks!

[marm64]

I found a 2"-1" reducer but it is the opposite of yours, the flutes are on top so when I cut the top of the reducer off the top has holes between the fluting. I was wondering where you got yours from? I looked at Home Depot and could not find them and also checked out Menards and not luck therer. I got the ones I have from a plumbing supply place.

Thanks

[Finally!]

Marm64....I had the same problem but I made it work....I will be installing the unit either tomorrow or Thursday....If my modified version works, I will post it here....

[jarhead]

Originally posted by marm64
I found a 2"-1" reducer but it is the opposite of yours, the flutes are on top so when I cut the top of the reducer off the top has holes between the fluting. I was wondering where you got yours from? I looked at Home Depot and could not find them and also checked out Menards and not luck therer. I got the ones I have from a plumbing supply place.

Home Depot sucks when it comes to these type of fittings. Lowes has them all.

[kstockman]

Agreed HD sucks. I only shop at Lowe's for PVC fitting.

[marm64]

Too bad I do not have a Lowes close by. I filled the spaces between the flanges with hot glue and will see how it works out. I was out of 1" thin wall pvc.

Thanks I might see if my brother can get me the reducers.

[srfndoc]

Can you use a stockman on an exposed overflow (ie, no wall). My tank is drilled with a single 1" bulkehead with a male adapter and a 1.5" pipe going up to the desired water level. Then I have a 'grate' piece that fits on the top. It works great but is very noisy (wife issues!) could I take the grate piece off and replace it with a stockman?

Thanks

[Vincerama2]

I use it in my DIY wall-less overflow. The pipe itself serves the purpose of the wall. (ie; it sets the water height)

V

[AZDesertRat]

How tall should the standpipe be? My tank is 23" H and the top of the overflow is 22" H. I see on the durso website they say have the water level in the overflow about 2" below the main tank. Is this also true with a Stockman?