Reef Central Online Community

Home Forum Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences View New Posts View Today's Posts

Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Search Reefkeeping ...an online magazine for marine aquarists Support our sponsors and mention Reef Central

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > Do It Yourself
Register Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

Reply
Thread Tools
Old 12/03/2005, 08:32 AM   #101
Superorb
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 430
that's b/c AGA has the correct tools to drill the holes. i'm pretty sure they have a drill press do it or some automated system instead of a guy w/ a drill. that way, they get cleaner and more consistent holes before they temper the glass, which they usually do on the bottom.


Superorb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/03/2005, 08:49 AM   #102
JustOneMoreTank
Registered Member
 
JustOneMoreTank's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,066
Quote:
Originally posted by Superorb
that's b/c AGA has the correct tools to drill the holes. i'm pretty sure they have a drill press do it or some automated system instead of a guy w/ a drill. that way, they get cleaner and more consistent holes before they temper the glass, which they usually do on the bottom.
Agreed. I am sure that they have a press and a very systematic, organized system for placing the holes. Any yes the bottom pane of glass is tempered (and sometimes thicker glass) due to the increased stress that the bottom piece is subjected to (weight of water, dropping/falling rocks, etc.).
My point is that placing holes in a glass tank is a task that can be accomplished by people other than the tank manufacturer. Myself and several friends have done it with a simple cordless or corded drill and a few different sizes of diamond coated hole saws off of Ebay with great success. The other point of information that was attempted to be shared with the members of the board is that Ebay has much cheaper hole saws than:

http://www.diamond-drill-bit-and-too...-Drill-Bit.htm

http://www.diamondtooling.com/cat2002/dtcatpage82a.html


JustOneMoreTank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/03/2005, 09:39 AM   #103
BraenDead
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 1,045
I got 6 bits from the guy on ebay and all of them are straight and true, in response to the guy who claimed many were not true.

Bob


BraenDead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/03/2005, 11:30 AM   #104
Superorb
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 430
see, i didn't get mine off ebay. it was a guy that sold on ebay, but he had his own site. i'm gonna look into it..


Superorb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/03/2005, 11:37 AM   #105
Superorb
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 430
Ok, i didn't get mine from lau. i got mine from www.richontools.com DONT get them from this guy. ALL his hole saws are flawed. wish i knew bout the ones form lau being straight. i thought they were all a little un true. oh well... i got the holes drilled already, just took FOREVER to drill the dam mthings...


Superorb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/07/2005, 07:54 PM   #106
causeofhim
Registered Member
 
causeofhim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 1,387
I just received my 60 mm hole saw from Lau. I used it to cut 2 holes in my new tank. Although it worked, I got some small chips on the holes. They are not too bad and I dont think will cause a problem. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO USE DUCT TAPE ON THE INSIDE OF THE TANK. I did this with my second hole and it was much better.
The shaft was not strait so the bit and drill wobbled when I used them. I e-mailed Lau about this and I'll let you know what he says in response.


causeofhim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/07/2005, 08:48 PM   #107
Bemmer
Premium Member
 
Bemmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 694
Can you explain what the duct tape does on the inside of the tank. Assuming that you are placing it on the other side of where you are drilling. I am guessing it is to keep the drilled glass in place so you can remove it easier or does it serve another purpose?


__________________
Rebecca
Bemmer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/07/2005, 08:56 PM   #108
causeofhim
Registered Member
 
causeofhim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 1,387
When I placed duct tape on the inside of the tank where I was drilling the hole, the glass piece I was cutting out stayed in place until I was completely finished with the cut. On my first hole, the glass piece wasn't completely finished being cut and because of its weight, it broke away from the cutting and made a small chip in the edge of the hole.

Does that make sense?


causeofhim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/07/2005, 08:58 PM   #109
causeofhim
Registered Member
 
causeofhim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 1,387
Also, I just received a reply from Lau. He was appologetic and will be sending me a replacement. What a great guy! I will try the other one on a smaller tank first, then on my new 120 gal!


causeofhim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/07/2005, 09:05 PM   #110
Bemmer
Premium Member
 
Bemmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 694
Thanks for the quick response. I understand now. I am anxious and nervious to be drilling my own tank. But from what I have read from everyone Lau in Hong Kong seems to be the way to go.

Anyway, has anyone drilled 1/2" glass before. How long does it take? An hour?


__________________
Rebecca
Bemmer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/07/2005, 09:25 PM   #111
causeofhim
Registered Member
 
causeofhim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 1,387
No, it wont take long at all.


causeofhim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/08/2005, 08:57 AM   #112
Superorb
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 430
see that's what happened to me on my first hole. the saw b/c it was a bit wobbly popped the core out and it left small chips around the hole. next 2 holes i hot glued a piece of wood to the glass, this way the glass didnt move and it was much cleaner.

as for not taking a while, i asked a glass shop how fast i could turn the drill, they said nothing more than 300rpms when cutting glass like that w/o a press, b'c if it's spinning real fast, than there's greater chance to slip or anythign else to happen. theres a website on this saying how it causes much stress to drill the hole really fast. i drilled all 3 of mine on a real slow setting. ya, it took longer, but it didnt put hardly any stress on the glass as opposed to going ape **** and making the drill go at full speed.


Superorb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/08/2005, 10:56 AM   #113
Fl_seagull
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 208
My experience with grinding glass can be translated to SPEED=RISK.

Having said that it is important to realise there are two reasons for the speed

The hole saws were intended to be used with a drill press like jig. These jig usually have two speeds 200-300 rpm and 1000 -1500 rpm. Starting at 1000-1500 rpm is asking for trouble.

The second reason is more related to the grinding process. Higher speed less bit life, increased chance of the bit binding and glass cracking, lower hole quality, inabilty to clear the glass waste resulting in slower grinding etc.

Most of the second reasons are unlike to be the concern of the average person grinding a handful of holes.

Even if you are going slow, if the bit binds and wrenches the drill from your hands you will likely crack the glass you are drilling. More powerful drill is not always better when drilling glass:LOL:.


__________________
I try to learn from other's mistakes but my own are more entertaining.

Current Tank Info: 125 gal Reef, 120 FO, 6 gal soft coral/LPS Nano
Fl_seagull is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/16/2005, 09:32 AM   #114
jimroth
Moving Money
 
jimroth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Rockaway, NJ
Posts: 1,767
Can somebody tell me what mm size works for a 2" bulkhead?


__________________
Jim Roth
---------------

Current Tank Info: 250G custom SPS System w/3X Radions
jimroth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/16/2005, 09:32 AM   #115
jimroth
Moving Money
 
jimroth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Rockaway, NJ
Posts: 1,767
Double post, sorry.


__________________
Jim Roth
---------------

Current Tank Info: 250G custom SPS System w/3X Radions
jimroth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/16/2005, 10:07 AM   #116
Superorb
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 430
it worries me hearing of the poeple that cut a 2" hole in their tank saying, "oh man it was so quick, it only took me 3 minutes to drill the hole it was great!!" keep doing it that way and you're bound to crack the glass sometime or another.

the key is slow speed and light pressure, as well as evacuating the glass dust that the saw makes when cutting.


Superorb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/16/2005, 01:53 PM   #117
jimroth
Moving Money
 
jimroth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Rockaway, NJ
Posts: 1,767
Okay, Superorb, Can you tell me what mm size works for a 2" bulkhead? The tank I'm cutting it in is so old I don't care if it cracks.


__________________
Jim Roth
---------------

Current Tank Info: 250G custom SPS System w/3X Radions
jimroth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/16/2005, 02:06 PM   #118
Superorb
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 430
I cannot tell you that with any confidence. It depends on the bulkhead. Usually the manufacturer or distributor will list the min. and max. size holes that can be drilled to accomodate the bulkhead. I know for a fact that www.savko.com lists the sizes of holes for their bulkheads; both sched. 80 and sched. 40.

Hope this helps.


Superorb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/16/2005, 04:50 PM   #119
Rendos
Registered Member
 
Rendos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 5,386
jmkarcz
Quote:
ALL 55 gallon tanks are TEMPERED!
The above statement is absolutely NOT true. Many tank manufacturers make 55's with untempered glass.
Ocean View Aquariums - not tempered
GlassCages - not tempered

P.S. - I disagree with using silicon on bulkheads. If installed correctly, silicon should never need to be used. I have installed hundreds of bulkheads in tanks (both my own, and customers' tanks) and never used silicon. In over 12 years, I have never had a bulkhead leak. Even some manufacturer's directions say not to overtighten, and not to use silicon.


__________________
Richard Rendos - Founder WTMRAC
It can't rain all the time.

Current Tank Info: 92 gallon corner bowfront
Rendos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/16/2005, 04:53 PM   #120
causeofhim
Registered Member
 
causeofhim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 1,387
I just drilled the side of my AGA 55 gallon. AGA said they have at time tempered the fronts and/or backs of the 55's but have never tempered the sides.


causeofhim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/16/2005, 04:54 PM   #121
causeofhim
Registered Member
 
causeofhim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 1,387
Quote:
Originally posted by Rendos

P.S. - I disagree with using silicon on bulkheads. If installed correctly, silicon should never need to be used. I have installed hundreds of bulkheads in tanks (both my own, and customers' tanks) and never used silicon. In over 12 years, I have never had a bulkhead leak. Even some manufacturer's directions say not to overtighten, and not to use silicon.
What would be the harm in using silicone if gives a person peace of mind?


causeofhim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/16/2005, 06:15 PM   #122
Superorb
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 430
I would have to agree about the 55g tanks not always being tempered. When I contacted AGA they said that the bottom of all the 55g tanks came tempered, and the only way they tempered the front/back is if it came in a "combo" is what she said. But, you can also measure the glass on the sides and front/rear and relay that to AGA and they can tell you if it's tempered or not.


Superorb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/16/2005, 06:30 PM   #123
JustOneMoreTank
Registered Member
 
JustOneMoreTank's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,066
Quote:
Originally posted by jimroth
Okay, Superorb, Can you tell me what mm size works for a 2" bulkhead? The tank I'm cutting it in is so old I don't care if it cracks.
jimroth...
You can try this webpage. http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_..._strainers.asp
MarineDepot lists the size hole in your glass tank for the Bulkheads that they sell. The units are given in inches however so you will need to convert this to millimeters.
(1 inch equals 25.4001 millimeters)
Or you measure the outside diameter of your Bulkhead.
The problem with giving you an exact number is that it depends on the brand of the BH and Sched 40 vs 80.
Hope this helps some.



Last edited by JustOneMoreTank; 12/16/2005 at 06:41 PM.
JustOneMoreTank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/16/2005, 06:40 PM   #124
JustOneMoreTank
Registered Member
 
JustOneMoreTank's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,066
Quote:
Originally posted by causeofhim
What would be the harm in using silicone if gives a person peace of mind?
Rendos shares an opinion that I have heard before. Many people do not use Silicone when installing BHs and they perform leak free. I, myself have always used Silicone with my BHs and have been leakfree so I will continue with what works for me.

Sched 40 BHs are weaker and can crack if overtightened. I think that people sometimes overtighten these lighter duty BHs when not using Silicone and this can lead to an immediate leak or possibly a leak somewhere down the road when the stress starts to split the threads. Not good. This is why I recommend Silicone and tighten "only" very tight. I am afraid that the average person may attempt to apply Super Gorilla strength if they are not using Silicone and possible crack their Sched 40 BH.
Sched 80 BHs are more "beefy" and come with a Great Gasket. I would have no problems not using silicone on these as long as I had good access to the unit when installing it and could tighten it down really well.
I have heard some claim that the Silicone can/may deteriorate the rubber gasket of the BH over time. I do not know if this is true or not. I have never found this to be true in any of my experiences but I dont know for sure.
So to finally get to your question causeofhim the silicone MAY not play nice with the BH's rubber gasket.
With that said... I have plenty peace of mind with all of my siliconed BHs in my young and old tanks.
Cheers


JustOneMoreTank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12/16/2005, 08:12 PM   #125
Superorb
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 430
Quote:
I am afraid that the average person may attempt to apply Super Gorilla strength if they are not using Silicone and possible crack their Sched 40 BH.
hahahaahaha gorilla strength hahaha. everytime i hear someone say that i fall outta my chair rofl hahaha. it is true though...


Superorb is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:43 PM.


TapaTalk Enabled

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2017 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright 1999-2014