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09/30/2003, 06:44 PM | #26 |
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yep
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10/01/2003, 04:01 PM | #27 |
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BonsaiNut
Stockman pipe does not equal Durso pipe. Since I am the person that designed the Stockman standpipe, I can say whether or not it is an improvement. It may or not may not be easier to make. It depend on if you can use a miter saw or not. This method eliminates the need to cut a hole in the side of the standpipe or having to slide the pipe through the reduction fitting. This method allows you to have an easily removable fitting for cleaning purposes. I have been working on other projects. For example, I have a nice top off system that people seem to like and I have made my own modification to the Reef Rat. BTW--Knock all you want nobody is home. |
10/01/2003, 04:34 PM | #28 | |
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Actually, he's already built his own, and has plans online. http://home.att.net/~rstockman/newpage13.htm P.S. You're talking about a Durso standpipe, as others have mentioned; Stockman's idea is something different. P.P.S. Ken, great design, I'm gonna try four of these myself for my 240G! |
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10/01/2003, 06:06 PM | #29 |
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Arg! The longer I wait to finish assembling all the parts of my new tank, the more cool ideas I find to consider. I was going to use two Durso standpipes in a center positioned overflow, but I haven't like the amount of space the overflow will take. This looks like a possible answer to that problem.
Do the Durso and Stockman standpipes perform similarly in capacity and noise level? Durso recommends using a larger standpipe than the bulkhead size. Is that necessary for the Stockman standpipe? Ken: Thanks for the improved design and an informative web site. Jeff |
10/01/2003, 10:00 PM | #30 |
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Hey,
what are the differences between yours and Durso's?
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10/01/2003, 10:07 PM | #31 |
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I just got my new Stockman pipes today. These things are built perfectly to fit in my two overflows. I'll try and snap some pics this weekend.
Thanks for your help Ken!! The updated website is cool. |
10/02/2003, 05:48 AM | #32 |
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Functionally there is no difference between my design and Durso's design. I found the Durso pipe and determined that it could not fit in most HOB overflows and in some internal overflows. My design is just a simple solution to the space problem. I do beleive that there is at least one benefit to my design.
If you notice on my design I have a pipe in pipe design. The space for the water to flow into the pipe has more surface area than the durso. More importantly the water enters through a gap that is about 1/2" wide and the opening to the inner drain pipe is 1". What does this mean? Any small object, such as a snail, that can fit into the water intake, will definitely fit down the drain and therefore it would be hard to clog the pipe. I believe with the Durso that some people use a screen of some sort to by pass this issue. This is the other issue with having a pipe larger than the drain. If you don't have a screen and something does get sucked into the pipe, then it will hit a restriction point and get stuck. |
10/02/2003, 10:29 AM | #33 |
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So Ken, I thought the reason for the Durso pipe having a larger pipe and smaller drain opening was to sort of keep the pipe full. I am going to redo my pathetic overflow. Assuming I use a one inch standpipe, I can use a one inch drain hose as well?
Thanks for posting pics and stuff! Both standpipe designs are a boon to the hobby! V
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10/02/2003, 12:07 PM | #34 | |
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Looks like this solves a couple of previous issues for a few minutes more dremel time. Nice. Thanks for the update. |
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10/02/2003, 12:08 PM | #35 |
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Ken, Do you sell these?
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10/02/2003, 03:37 PM | #36 |
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Radcast2--
I do make them for people once in a while. I think that I have made about 10 or so for people on RC. Shoot me an email to kstockman@worldnet.att.net. |
10/02/2003, 03:41 PM | #37 |
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Vincerama2--
I have never had the need to change the diameter of the standpipe relative to the bulkhead, but then again I have always had a sump in a different room or level of the house. In doing so I have lots of elbows to create back pressure in the line. I would try the same diameter to start with and modifiy it if you have to. |
10/18/2003, 11:24 AM | #38 |
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Loud, Loud, Loud
Well, I finished making the new Stockman standpipe to replace the All-Glass overflow kit, the type with the floats. All my parts look just like Ken's pictures. I've got it pretty high so the water just falls into the overflow.
No matter how far I insert the plug, even without it, the water level rises and falls with a LOUD gurgling sound. On the Durso standpipe I have on my Oceanic 58G, I drilled the air hole bigger to solve this problem. This gurgles with or without the plug. Equipment is an All-Glass RR 125G tank, dual overflow, dual return powered by an Iwaki MD30RLXT. The overflow drain pipe is one inch. The All-glass kit although noisey was much quieter than this. Any suggestions? Bob |
10/18/2003, 11:46 AM | #39 |
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If the water keeps rising and falling, then the issue is typically that not enough air is getting into the standpipe. Try several small holes--like 1/8".
Does the water exit into the sump below the water level? I would have the water from the return exit the return pipe below the surface of the water in the sump. This will create some back pressure and my help things. |
10/18/2003, 12:01 PM | #40 |
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I actually cut four slots in the plug. The height of the plug doesn't matter, I still get noise even without the plug so it's getting plenty of air. I wonder if it has to do with backpressure. My overflow hose attaches to the top of the wet dry. I cannot submerge it without getting a longer hose, something no local LFS has in stock. Since there are two overflows, my sump is pretty well centered so both hoses will reach.
It seems the largest difference between this and the Durso I used before, is that the Durso uses a 1.25 inch pipe going into the 1.0 inch bulkhead. Ken, if this design is noisey, is there any chanch your old design would be any quieter for me? Bob |
10/18/2003, 01:46 PM | #41 |
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before i saw this i actually did the same thing with a 1.5" drian and i used a 3" - 1.5" bushing. I ended up scraping the idea and just built one out of acrylic tubing. i just didnt think porting out the bottom of that bushing was going to give me enough flow.
Havent hoked it up yet but ill let everythign know how it goes, should be running by tommororow or monday the latest. |
10/18/2003, 02:42 PM | #42 | |
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10/19/2003, 07:11 AM | #43 |
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You can make my design out of 1.25" PVC, then reduce it to 1". I have made a couple of these for people on RC.
But you are telling me that the noise was not present with the 1.25" Durso. That is very odd. Unless the larger standpipe created enough back pressure to slow the water down some. Taking the plug totally out will be very noisy, it is like an open standpipe. |
11/24/2003, 07:03 PM | #44 |
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Cutting the reduction fitting
What's the best tool for cutting the reduction fitting? I noticed the nice, clean straight cuts on the pictures. I've got a dremel, but not sure which cutting blade is best for this. I've got hacksaws galore, but can't seem to cut true.
Thanks, Jim
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11/24/2003, 08:43 PM | #45 |
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I did it all on a table saw
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11/24/2003, 08:57 PM | #46 |
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Hack saw and cheap mitre box...have some sandpaper on hand to de-burr the cut.
V
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11/25/2003, 11:30 AM | #47 | |
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Quote:
Vince, I've also got a maple mitre box, it might be the safer route. Thanks, guys, for the suggestions. Jim
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People don't plan to fail ... they just fail to plan. Current Tank Info: 180g with 55 capacity sump, 18g fuge; 42 Hex. |
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11/25/2003, 11:49 AM | #48 |
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Here is a trick for marking a straight cut on tubes, take a piece of paper (like an 8x11 sheet) and wrap it around the tube, when the edge of the paper lines up, it will be perfectly straight! Just tape it in place, then run a marker around it to mark your cut. You could try cutting with the paper in place, but I find it annoying and if the paper rips off, there goes your straight edge!
Also, once you have marked it, you can try this trick as well.... If you cut ALL the way from top to bottom of a tube (unless you have a really good mitre box) your blade will probably drift, BUT if you cut cut just a bit from the top, then rotate the tube and cut again, and repeat this until you have cut all the way around (using your straigt cut mark) you will have a nice straight cut! You can take a piece of sandpaper to deburr the cut or smooth it out, but for the purposes of the standpipe, that is just a nicety (it helps to have smooth edges though, as you won't trap bits of floating hair algae, etc). GOod luck!
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11/25/2003, 06:55 PM | #49 |
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Apparently my last reply did not go through. I would be careful with a power miter saw. I had a fitting blow up in my hands the other day. I acutally did a physical check of myself to make sure htat I did not take an shrapnel. Needless to say, it scared the crap out of me. I would use a band saw to be safe or a hand saw.
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11/25/2003, 07:27 PM | #50 | |
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Again, thanks guys for your help.
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People don't plan to fail ... they just fail to plan. Current Tank Info: 180g with 55 capacity sump, 18g fuge; 42 Hex. |
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