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Old 05/31/2009, 04:27 PM   #26
kangym
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I tested the par yesterday for my 265G tank, lighted by two ATI powdermodule 8 x 39W (3 feet fixture). ....... Disappointed.

Tank size: 84x24x30(H), 265G
Lighting: two ATI powdermodule 8 x 39W (3 feet fixture)
Light bulbs combination: from front to back
Blue+
Aquablue spec.
Blue+
Aqusun
Aqublue spec.
Blue+
GE 6500K
Blue+
Hanging height: 8 inches from water level
Age of lamps: 5 months
Lighting period: 2 blue+ for 10 hrs, and 8 hrs for the rest.



My apology, I forget to take the picture before I lowered down the left side light fixture. Both of them were 8 inches above the water level originally.


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Old 05/31/2009, 04:30 PM   #27
kangym
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Here is the par reading with fixture at 8 inches above the water level. Again, both fixtures were at 8 in. above when par was measured.




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Old 05/31/2009, 04:44 PM   #28
kangym
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I checked the par in the beginning at water level, the highest reading is 850. Five months later, it drops more than 20% to 680 again just like 10 x 54W powermodule. I think the par are way too low to keep the sps. The growth is slow, color is dark.
I use almost the same light lamp combination. I though there is no difference between 3 or 4 feet light lamp. but the par reading on 3 feet lamp can not catch up with 4 feet lamp. Not even close.
Here are the differences between two tank systems:
4 ft vs 3 ft
10 x 54W vs 8 x 39W
Tank depth: 24 in. vs 30 in.
Euro-bracing vs two trims
Lamp combination?


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Old 05/31/2009, 04:47 PM   #29
kangym
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I decided to lower both fixtures to 4 in. above the water level. Check the par again.




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Old 05/31/2009, 04:53 PM   #30
kangym
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The par reading still looks low to me to keep sps. Anyone has the same experience with 3 feet T5 fixture on 30 in. (H) tank?


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Old 05/31/2009, 05:12 PM   #31
stony_corals
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Quote:
Originally posted by kangym
Actually, before ATI T5, I was running 2x 400w MH reeflux 10,000k in LB reflectors. I got incredible growth. Most of my sps doubled or tripled the size in 6 months. Due to the space limitation, I was not able to hang the reflectors higher, and the corals don't look very happy in color and PE. After switched to T5, the growth rate slows down, but more PE and color pops.
I will start hanging the fixture 10 inches above the water level again, and move it down later after par drops. Be honest, that fixture is very heavy, I don't know if I can move it down once a day to replace one light bulbs. I will check my workers comp. policy before I make my move.
I've heard this as well... I've been in T5 land for a while, but am contemplating a move back to halides....


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Old 05/31/2009, 10:52 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by kangym
I decided to lower both fixtures to 4 in. above the water level. Check the par again.

I think those numbers will be good for most sps if you have the high light critters on the rocks. You got about the same increase I did lowing my Constellation that same distance.


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Old 05/31/2009, 11:01 PM   #33
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I get better numbers than that with my standard output DIY retro. I was looking at getting a PM to increase PAR but maybe its a waste of money


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Old 06/01/2009, 12:44 AM   #34
reefgeek31
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I would like to see someone else compare 4ft. bulb against a 3 ft. bulb. Is the saying that 1 inch of t5 the same on all bulbs despite the length. I think maybe i should of went with 5 ft. bulb now!


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Old 06/01/2009, 12:47 AM   #35
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Kangym how is the par on your 200 gal tank this month


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Old 06/01/2009, 12:32 PM   #36
mdt178
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Quote:
Originally posted by reefgeek31
I would like to see someone else compare 4ft. bulb against a 3 ft. bulb. Is the saying that 1 inch of t5 the same on all bulbs despite the length. I think maybe i should of went with 5 ft. bulb now!
It's kinda obvious that the 3-footer doesn't pack enough punch compared to a 4-footer. I would like to see the numbers on an overdriven 3 footer.

Also, the 265G looks darker partly because of the tank composition. The 200G is filled with colorful corals almost to the top whereas the 265G rocks and frags only goes up halfway of a 30" tall tank, leaving a lot of background. I think the lighting is sufficient for a mixed reef and it will turn this frag tank into a full blown reef in no time.


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Old 06/01/2009, 01:25 PM   #37
kangym
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
I think those numbers will be good for most sps if you have the high light critters on the rocks. You got about the same increase I did lowing my Constellation that same distance.
I would like to know if the par will stay the same afterward just like PM 10 x 54W. Turn the fan speed from 4.5v to 9v again. I will try to be patient. Tank looks brighter today.


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Old 06/01/2009, 01:28 PM   #38
kangym
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Quote:
Originally posted by snaza
I get better numbers than that with my standard output DIY retro. I was looking at getting a PM to increase PAR but maybe its a waste of money
What light do you have? 3 ft? How many lamps and combination? What is the par number? More detail please.


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Old 06/01/2009, 01:36 PM   #39
kangym
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Quote:
Originally posted by reefgeek31
I would like to see someone else compare 4ft. bulb against a 3 ft. bulb. Is the saying that 1 inch of t5 the same on all bulbs despite the length. I think maybe i should of went with 5 ft. bulb now!
Good idea, then we will have 3, 4 and 5 ft T5 par reading. Anytime, you could borrow the par meter.

Quote:
Originally posted by reefgeek31
Kangym how is the par on your 200 gal tank this month
I will check the par in 2 weeks. Last time was on may 13.


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Old 06/01/2009, 03:32 PM   #40
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wow i was just talking to my lfs about this, as i was about to buy a 36" all t5 fixture and they told me that i would be dissapointed with the par on a 3ft fixture as opposed to the 4ft fixtures (both ati powermodules) as they said the 4ft in their opinion put out much better par, i didn't really take it seriously as i thought the intensity would be the same but just in a shorter area of 3ft vs 4ft, i would love to see if we can do a proper comparison as i might just stick with halides mixed with t5 supplementation.


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Old 06/01/2009, 04:01 PM   #41
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SWEET TANK.

Imitation is the best form of flattery. So,,, with that said,,,,

What is some of the other equipment you're using in your display tank? (IE: skimmer, pumps, chemicals, food, feeding schedule, etc)

I bookmark a few of the truly inspirational tank threads I come across, and yours is now one of those few. Thanks!


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Old 06/01/2009, 04:48 PM   #42
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Why did you switch from 400w MH to T5's?


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Old 06/01/2009, 06:03 PM   #43
snaza
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Quote:
Originally posted by kangym
What light do you have? 3 ft? How many lamps and combination? What is the par number? More detail please.
my tank is 4x2x2. 7 bulb IC retro. 4 blue plus, 2 aqua blue. 1 fiji.

lights are 4ft and about 4inch from the water.

I get about 600Par just under water level

About 400 at 12 inch

about 250 on the sandbed.

I wanted to get a 10 bulb PM for my next tank as i assumed the par would be much more.


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Old 06/01/2009, 06:14 PM   #44
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Water current effect PAR reading? If so, your PAR reading is with water current? Or shut off PH when you measure PAR?


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Old 06/01/2009, 07:14 PM   #45
kangym
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Quote:
Originally posted by ToolmanRR
SWEET TANK.

Imitation is the best form of flattery. So,,, with that said,,,,

What is some of the other equipment you're using in your display tank? (IE: skimmer, pumps, chemicals, food, feeding schedule, etc)

I bookmark a few of the truly inspirational tank threads I come across, and yours is now one of those few. Thanks!
Thank you for the compliment. I don't want to hijack the thread. You may find my tank thread here: http://www.cvreefers.org/showthread.php?t=12942


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Old 06/01/2009, 08:21 PM   #46
kangym
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Quote:
Originally posted by luther1200
Why did you switch from 400w MH to T5's?
MH is a little bit too much for my tank. Due to the space limitation, I am not able to hang the LB reflector at least 18 in. from water level, which burn most my sps and also my elec. bill. I like the fast grow under MH, but I get better color and PE after switch to T5. You can see the pictures of my 200G tank under MH before I switch to T5 PM here: http://www.cvreefers.org/showthread.php?t=12942


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Old 06/01/2009, 08:28 PM   #47
kangym
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Quote:
Originally posted by takayan
Water current effect PAR reading? If so, your PAR reading is with water current? Or shut off PH when you measure PAR?
I measured the par with PHs on. Because I would like to know the par number under "normal" condition.


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Old 06/01/2009, 08:32 PM   #48
kangym
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Quote:
Originally posted by snaza
my tank is 4x2x2. 7 bulb IC retro. 4 blue plus, 2 aqua blue. 1 fiji.

lights are 4ft and about 4inch from the water.

I get about 600Par just under water level

About 400 at 12 inch

about 250 on the sandbed.

I wanted to get a 10 bulb PM for my next tank as i assumed the par would be much more.
Is it possible you could chime in and show us some par reading picture over your current tank? Thanks.


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Old 06/01/2009, 08:39 PM   #49
snaza
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Sorry. Dont have any exact pics. I'll have to borrow the par meter again soon and do some better testing.


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Old 06/01/2009, 11:25 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally posted by reefgeek31
I would like to see someone else compare 4ft. bulb against a 3 ft. bulb. Is the saying that 1 inch of t5 the same on all bulbs despite the length. I think maybe i should of went with 5 ft. bulb now!
WHen T5's were first out I heard the longer lamps were more intense and the wattage vs length of the lamps seems to back that up. . When overdriving the opposite it true according to Ice Caps testing.


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