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Old 07/29/2009, 08:44 AM   #101
Ancelot
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Quote:
Originally posted by wayne in norway
LUX should count the photons and then weight them with a weighting that takes into account the preferred spectrum of the human eye. PAR uses a weighting that takes into account the fact that photosynthetic organisms prefer to use some wavelenghs over some other wavelenghs. For example green is visible to use so it counts for lux, but corals, plants can't use it very well so it counts very badly for par. The opposite is true for blue.

Typically for MH you can divide LUX by 90 and get a close approximation of PAR, but because of the peaky nature of T5 spectra that doesn't work out so well, so divide lux by 50 and know it's a guesstimate.

I use both (because I have to borrow a PAR meter) and I am surprised your LUX numbers are that low. Are you using a cheap or expensive LUX meter - cheaper is better as they don't actually use the weighting, they have a flat weighting which means they correlate to PAR a little better. I have at least 37, 38000 underneath my 6 *54 unit before I turn fan cooling on. What ATI tubes?
I am using the following in the order of arrangement:

AB special
Blue+
Pro Color
Blue+
AB special
Blue+
All tubes run on Vossoloh eballast. There's no need for cooling of the tubes or ballasts because usually when the lights are on, I am in office with my air con on directly above the retrofit (:

HMM. I am not so sure either. The readings were given to me as such. I am equally annoyed that my readings are that small. But right now, all my zoas are bleaching under the lights, even the healthy ones are flattened out under the lights. So I wonder if it's really the lights or just my water parameters :X

Nonetheless, I will try with a monti and see if it can hold its redness to see where I am for my T5s (:

anyway bro, what fixture are you using? and what tubes? (:

Happy Reefing,
Marc J.


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Old 07/29/2009, 03:17 PM   #102
wayne in norway
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A sfiligoi with retrofitted cooling, and aquascience tubes. I would be very surprised if you didn't benefit from active cooling as even a 'bare' tube (tube + endcaps) runs too hot. You should be able to hold your tubes comfortably as you want them to be running as close to 35C as possible. All the same, those numbers look duff to me.


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Old 08/01/2009, 06:57 PM   #103
kangym
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Par reading for 200G
LIght fixture: ATI 10 x 54W PM
Lamps age: 1 month and 2 weeks
Light fixture 9 in. from water level
The lamp combo from front to back
Blue+
ATI aquablue spec.
Blue+
GE6500K
Blue+
ATI procolor
ATI aquablue spec.
Blue+
UVL Aquasun (Internal reflector)
Blue+
Photo period: 2 blue+ for 10 hrs, and 8 hrs for the rest


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Old 08/01/2009, 06:59 PM   #104
kangym
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Par reading for 2 weeks old T5 lamps:


Par reading for 1 month and 2 weeks lamps:



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Old 08/01/2009, 07:04 PM   #105
kangym
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Generally, the par drops around 5 - 7% in one month. Overall, the par number still looks good for sps. Growth and color are nice. No plan to lower the light fixture at this time.


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Old 08/02/2009, 09:45 PM   #106
kangym
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Par measuring for my frag tank
Tank spec.: 46 x 18 x 12(H)
Lighting: Aquactinic TX5 5x54W T5 HO 4 ft fixture
Lamp combination: from front to back
ATI aquablue spec.
ATI blue+
UVL aquasun
ATI blue+
GE 6500K
Hanging height: 5 in. from water level
Lamp age: 2 months old
Photo period: 7 hrs




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Old 08/02/2009, 11:22 PM   #107
Ancelot
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Quote:
Originally posted by wayne in norway
A sfiligoi with retrofitted cooling, and aquascience tubes. I would be very surprised if you didn't benefit from active cooling as even a 'bare' tube (tube + endcaps) runs too hot. You should be able to hold your tubes comfortably as you want them to be running as close to 35C as possible. All the same, those numbers look duff to me.
hello wayne,

I am not using a sfiligoi set. Mine's a self-made retrofit with active cooling fans, so yeah. Somehow I still don't find 6 tubes are sufficient to me. IT'S WAY TOO CALM for my eyes unless I look into the tubes directly. If not, through the glass, the effect is mild.

Could it be something to do with my eyes or my 12mm thick glass?

Anyway wayne, the readings are inaccurate. I remeasured the LUX directly from the tubes last night. They were at 47000 LUX, 3 inches from the tubes (or on the water surface). Is that a crazy reading?

LUX to PAR is a divsion of 51 from the LUX readings. So I am getting like 921 for PAR?!


Happy Reefing,
Marc J.


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Old 08/02/2009, 11:29 PM   #108
Ancelot
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Kangym:

Those readings look great for the 54watts (:

Anyone mind chiming in the readings for a 39w? I kind of regretted going for 39w when 54w seems to be the way to go hah :X

Happy Reefing,
Marc J.


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Old 08/03/2009, 01:02 AM   #109
kangym
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I am thinking of replacing the 3ft ATI PMs in my 265G with either 10x80W ATI PM or Sfiligoi 12 x 80W. I wish someone has par reading of 8, 10 or 12 x 80W T5 could share the data with us.


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Old 08/04/2009, 02:10 AM   #110
Ancelot
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Kangym: why do you want to change? Any reason?

Happy Reefing,
Marc J.


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Old 08/04/2009, 02:35 AM   #111
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I would worry about the coverage of a 5ft fixture over a 7ft tank.


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Old 08/04/2009, 10:51 AM   #112
kangym
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ancelot
Kangym: why do you want to change? Any reason?

Happy Reefing,
Marc J.
The par production of ATI 3ft PM is not as much as I expected. Besides, my tank height is 30 in.. I've checked the par all around the tank. Only at the top 5 to 6 in. of the tank can get par over 400. From 5 to 20 in. of the tank, the par reading is around 300 and under. My previous experience and observation tells me it is not enough for high light sps. But 3 ft T5 fixture will be a perfect lighting for a shallow reef tank.


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Old 08/04/2009, 12:31 PM   #113
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Compare to 4 ft T5, the par reading at 5 to 15 in. of the 200G tank is around 400 and more. So I am surprised to find that 4 ft T5 produce more par than 3 ft T5. If you check rhoptowit's previous par reading on ATI 2 ft PM, it seems even 2 ft PM produces a little more more par than 3 ft PM! It is just my observation.


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Old 08/04/2009, 12:44 PM   #114
kangym
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Quote:
Originally posted by eros
I would worry about the coverage of a 5ft fixture over a 7ft tank.
I might add some LEDs at both ends if needed. I also have many low light monti or sps can fit in at both ends.
Again, I will prefer to know the par reading of 80W T5 before I jump in. Anyone would like to chime in?


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Old 08/15/2009, 03:32 PM   #115
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Coral growth in less than 3 months under T5 is just amazing:

FTS May 22, 2009


FTS Aug. 14, 2009



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Old 08/15/2009, 03:43 PM   #116
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Coral color under T5 is brilliant






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Old 08/15/2009, 04:52 PM   #117
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Im wondering how a 8 bulb 2ft ATI PM will do on a 24" deep tank. Wonder if it matters if I go 10 bulb unit, or 8 bulb.

I am jst now setting up a 60 gal cube, and havent decided on lighting yet.


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Old 08/16/2009, 12:56 AM   #118
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I do not know the answer because I never have a chance to test the par on 2 ft ATI PM. Here is the par reading from previous posting by rhoptowit. His tank is 12 in. high and he is running 4 bulbs 2 ft ATI PM. At the sand bed level, the par is 328. You will get more par with more bulbs for sure. IMO, 8 bulbs will be enough with all high light animal placed at upper half of the tank.
You should try T5 Q&A thread, I always get very helpful information there.

Quote:
Originally posted by rhoptowit


my second tank is a 20L lit with a 4 bulb ATI PM, the fixture is situated 4" above the water's surface. the bulb combo is.
front
ATI blue plus
Fiji purple
ATI aqua blue special
ATI blue plus
back



idk if this will be much help as i dont have any info from when i first put these bulbs in this fixtures. but i suspect that after reading this the 36" fixture is not so great when compared to the other PMs. kinda bummed. i did notice the 36" PM runs alot hotter then my 24" PM, and the ATI true actinic in my 36" has seemed to diminish in visible output alot.

well hope this helps.



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Old 08/16/2009, 04:12 AM   #119
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Hmm, anyone have the PAR readings for a 8x24watt ATI powermodule? Really curious now.


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Old 08/17/2009, 11:10 AM   #120
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Yes, we need par reading for 5 ft 80w T5 and 2 ft 24w T5. Anyone?


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Old 08/24/2009, 03:00 PM   #121
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I was considering the 5 foot 80w bulbs. These PAR numbers would be interesting to have!


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Old 09/06/2009, 06:16 AM   #122
sanababit
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btt


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Current Tank Info: 90RR inwall, Octopuss Skimmer, 2 MP40 wQD, 1 MP10 WQD, 2 Radions G4 Pro, Apex Doser, Apex Controller, 400w heater, 30 Gal Sump, Biopellets, Carbon, Gfo, Macroalgae
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Old 09/07/2009, 02:33 AM   #123
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any new tests???

sana


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Current Tank Info: 90RR inwall, Octopuss Skimmer, 2 MP40 wQD, 1 MP10 WQD, 2 Radions G4 Pro, Apex Doser, Apex Controller, 400w heater, 30 Gal Sump, Biopellets, Carbon, Gfo, Macroalgae
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Old 09/07/2009, 04:36 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally posted by sanababit
any new tests???

sana
kangym and I are going to be getting some readings on some 24 inch T5s but it won't be for a couple more weeks.


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Old 09/07/2009, 01:19 PM   #125
kangym
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I pass the par meter to local reef club members to test their lighting. It won't be back for another two weeks. Will post the new reading as soon as I get the meter back.
Still looking for par reading under 80W T5 lighting. eros just got a new 24in T5 lighting. It will be interesting to see another 24w T5 tank par reading soon.


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