BRS Tested Some Carbon Blocks: I'm Testing Them, You Should Too.

[Buckeye Hydro]

Based on performance data we like the Chloraguard Chloramine Blocks.

Russ

[Buckeye Hydro]

Originally Posted by zachfishman

We had to upgrade the dechlorination for our RO filters at work (2x TOMAR 1000gpd); the stock 20"x2.5" cartridges weren't cutting it. The Pentek Chlorplus BB 20"x4" was the only filter I tested that sufficiently removed our chloramine and held up decently over time (our monthly RO consumption is ~10,000 gallons, so I can get nearly a month out of the filters). If it weren't for the Chlorplus, we'd need to use those massive granulated carbon towers. The 20" BB cartridges might cost a little more than bulk granulated carbon, but the ease of swapping out cartridges is worth it.

You're comparing apples to oranges here - which is fine to do, but folks should be aware that there are certain blocks specifically designed to deal with chloramines (like the Chloraguard blocks), and then there are traditional carbon blocks.

Russ

[Fredfish]

Buckeye. You don't mention which in zachfishman's comparison are the apples. Looking at his chart I would guess the Hydronix unit is probably regular carbon.

Based on performance data we like the Chloraguard Chloramine Blocks.

Can you explain what it is abut the Chloraguard blocks that makes them better?

[Buckeye Hydro]

Of the chloramine blocks, the Chloraguards have the greatest chloramine capacity but certainly not the highest price. They are the best value among the chloramine blocks. Guess which one we carry?

Russ

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by Mrs. Music

Please post pictures of this filter set up!

Bump, I know it's late but I will post pics soon.

BTW, my 20bb Chlorplus cartridge is still going strong. I lost count of the gallons.

So over a year of hard use and we're still good. If you have chloramines, you need this.

[jason2459]

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

Bump, I know it's late but I will post pics soon.

BTW, my 20bb Chlorplus cartridge is still going strong. I lost count of the gallons.

So over a year of hard use and we're still good. If you have chloramines, you need this.

Wow, that's pretty impressive.

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by jason2459

Wow, that's pretty impressive.

Yeah, I thought for sure I would be getting breakthrough by now, I'm really impressed by the results! What I find really awesome is my DI carts are lasting a very long time. I have only changed them twice in a year.

I just went back and looked at my salt purchases. In the last year I have purchased 22 Boxes and one bucket of salt.

Thats 4,600 gallons of Saltwater. I used my last box last night (which got me thinking about this).

I evaporate about 10 gallons a day between the different systems. We're 425 days since I installed this filter. So that's 4250 gallons of additional DI.

Unless I'm forgetting something i'm averaging 4,425 gallons per set of DI carts and the 2nd set of DI carts is still going! I'm using dual Spectrapure 99% membranes @80psi and maxcap super DI carts.

[amcvay1979]

Since I switched to the BRS chloramine blocks my DI has been lasting crazy long. My membranes were frying in about 5 months too. Now I know why. Chloramines.

[drawman]

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

Bump, I know it's late but I will post pics soon.

BTW, my 20bb Chlorplus cartridge is still going strong. I lost count of the gallons.

So over a year of hard use and we're still good. If you have chloramines, you need this.

Were you ever able to get pictures of the setup? I'm interested in doing something similar. It looks like the housing uses 3/4" tubing - how did you go from 1/4" to 3/4" and back again?

[zachfishman]

Originally Posted by drawman

Were you ever able to get pictures of the setup? I'm interested in doing something similar. It looks like the housing uses 3/4" tubing - how did you go from 1/4" to 3/4" and back again?

They sell adapters. You can either get push fit adapters, or replace the connections on the housing itself: http://www.buckeyehydro.com/male-adapter/

[Reel North]

I have the vertex with the booster pump. I added 2 more stages to it - carbon and another DI.

I use the BRS chloramine blocks.

What's this test kit for chloramines?

I did notice a big difference in my tank after adding the carbon blocks.

[drawman]

Originally Posted by zachfishman

They sell adapters. You can either get push fit adapters, or replace the connections on the housing itself: http://www.buckeyehydro.com/male-adapter/

Thanks! So I really shouldn't need anything else if I want to plumb this between my sediment filter and carbon filter? Ie booster pump, etc.

Do you still recommend the Pentek Chlorplus in this setup? I see BRS and other companies sell the Pentek CRFC20-BB Carbon Block and Buckeye Hydro sells the Chloraguard Chloramine carbon block. At this stage I would want to get the best for chloramines and not mess around.

[drawman]

Originally Posted by Reel North

I have the vertex with the booster pump. I added 2 more stages to it - carbon and another DI.

I use the BRS chloramine blocks.

What's this test kit for chloramines?

I did notice a big difference in my tank after adding the carbon blocks.

People are testing both Total chlorine and free chlorine. The difference between the two is your amount of chloramines. If the two are the same then you have no detectable chloramines. Several companies make them with Hach being likely the best and most expensive for our use.

[drawman]

Just plumbed in a 20BB Housing and Chloraguard Carbon block from Buckeye Hydro between my sediment and carbon blocks on my RO unit. Making some water now for the first time I don't think I'll have to worry about Chloramines for a while now!

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by drawman

Just plumbed in a 20BB Housing and Chloraguard Carbon block from Buckeye Hydro between my sediment and carbon blocks on my RO unit. Making some water now for the first time I don't think I'll have to worry about Chloramines for a while now!

Awesome!!

BTW... My filter is still going . No Idea how much water I have made, I lost count.

[Buckeye Hydro]

If you get to the point of wanting to hang that Max Flow housing on the wall, we have a bracket for that...

[BFG]

Wow , just stumbled into this thread ! I was going to build a rodi system and had initially wanted to do something similar too ! I am just so glad that what I had initially planned , you guys were already doing it ! Thanks for sharing your setup !

[tkeracer619]

You're welcome. It is money well spent!!

[tkeracer619]

It's 2017 and the chlorplus 20bb is still going strong!

[jason2459]

That's just awesome

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by jason2459

That's just awesome

I know right! I'm thinking about swapping it and the rest out for fresh blocks. It's saved me a ton of cash. My ro di budget for 2016 consisted of two di canisters. Kinda feel guilty for not supporting the rodi sponsors as much as I used to

Plus, I think it's easily time to disinfect the system.

[jason2459]

Thought of getting another 20BB and putting a regular carbon block in that one? Its been what almost 2 years?

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by jason2459

Thought of getting another 20BB and putting a regular carbon block in that one? Its been what almost 2 years?

The thought crossed my mind but I am not sure if it would ever be cost effective. I don't think the investment could ever really be recouped. A pentek .5 micron carbon block is $15 for a normal one and $75 for a 20bb. Including the $$85 for the housing and bracket the initial cost would be $160 and I would still need to disinfect the system at some point. I'd need to replace 11 carbon blocks in the time I replace the 20bb chlorplus, I used 3.

So I think keeping the normal filters in there is best. In the end a 10BB Chlorplus may have been better. It's half the cost and if it lasts half as long you won't feel bad about trashing it each year to disinfect. Personally, I'm not worried about the $50 considering how long the DI lasts and the fact that I'm not worried about chloramines anymore. If I make any change it would be to do my whole house instead of just the RODI system.

[125mph]

So here's a question : if you stillji have chloramines after the RO stage, wouldn't the DI stage remove all the chloramines? Sure DI resin would get depleted rapidly, but no chloramine are entering the tank, right?


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[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by 125mph

So here's a question : if you stillji have chloramines after the RO stage, wouldn't the DI stage remove all the chloramines? Sure DI resin would get depleted rapidly, but no chloramine are entering the tank, right?


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It will ruin the membrane and yes the di will get it but only for a short time. It's like using $5 bills to wipe your...

They rate the membranes for so many hours of chlorine but since chloramine doesn't break down the clock never stops ticking. You could run it once and 6 months later the membrane would be toast.