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Unread 12/01/2003, 12:19 PM   #26
dkh0331
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Location: Close to the edge, down by a river
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I love these little gizmo's -
http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/s...sp?T1=121+2550

David


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Last edited by Dino; 04/07/2014 at 06:02 AM.
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Unread 12/01/2003, 06:20 PM   #27
Doppler
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Where can I get venturi valves for DIY skimmer?


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Current Tank Info: 65 gal,20 gal Fuge,dual 250w MH/w 2 96w PC atinic,ES5-2 skimmer,DJ888 DIY calcium reactor
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Unread 12/08/2003, 01:22 PM   #28
laxing22
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http://www.floatvalve.com/


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- Ben

"There is never enough time to do all the nothing you want" - Calvin

Current Tank Info: 75g reef lit with 6 48" T5's of many colors
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Unread 12/15/2003, 11:02 PM   #29
Scuba1
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For a moon light, you can use a blue rope light.


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restarting a 55 gal SWFLR tank
and learning alot

Current Tank Info: just restarting up a 55 gal SWFLR with a seaclone 100, and ecosystem 60
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Unread 12/31/2003, 02:12 AM   #30
lajohnston
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For lighting, check out:

www.ahsupply.com

thanks for all the great links!

Laurie


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Unread 12/31/2003, 05:31 AM   #31
Unresistible Blue
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Need source for nylon hardware

OK all you DIY'ers - I'm hunting for a source for nylon hardware - nuts and bolts - but I need panel nuts rather than regular nuts.

I've found some at

http://www.plasticnutsandbolts.com

but they don't have what I need. Also tried

http://www.microplastics.com

and they don't have it either. Both sources have splined panel nuts, which are perfect, except I need to use a No. 8 bolt/nut rather than a 10.

Any other options for suppliers or manufacturers of nylon/plastic hardware?

Thanks in advance,
Blue


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Unread 01/13/2004, 11:12 PM   #32
Jim in santa barbara
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Here a couple of links:

DIY Greenhouse - PVC

LEDs - Super Bright - Moonlights DIY

Very large diameter clear fiberglass tanks / DIY culture vessels

U.S. Plastics - lots of, well um, plastic stuff

Hope they help


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Current Tank Info: 40 aga zoos, stars, leathers, mated GSM , PC 65's , wet/dry/refugiums 5 - 15 gal frag/test tanks 20 gal FW Amzn 300 gal pond/aquagarden (6 yo feeders) 20 15's to set-up..lots of other various tubs and containers.
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Unread 01/26/2004, 07:12 PM   #33
trc_pdx
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Here's one you may not have seen

This guy is the quintessential DIYer:

http://www.gizmology.net/index.htm

Info here on LEDs, pipe, & electrical/electronic circuits.


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Unread 02/28/2004, 11:14 AM   #34
kstockman
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Here is a new schematic of my water top off system. Completely automated, but the RO/DI is not hooked directly to the sump.


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Unread 02/28/2004, 11:53 AM   #35
kstockman
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Here is the run down:

What drives me here is total and complete paranoia of a flood. If you see a flaw let me know and I will address it and/or fix it. I think that it is bullet proof, but just in case.....

Parts:
3 30 gallon trash cans from Lowe's or maybe BJs--they cost about $15 each
1 pump
1 solenoid valve
2 kent marine float valves
4 bulkheads
10-20' of flexible hosing
1 timer
1 RO/DI system (maybe optional)
10-20' of 1/4 flexible pressure rated tubing


1. Fresh water: This is the automated part of the system. The water flows through a solenoid valve though the RO/DI system, then to the fresh water tank. The solenoid valve is connected to an electronic float switch in the fresh water tank. The electronic float switch has been fixed in place with a bulkhead fitting and some PCV fittings. I did not label the pump but it is the square box between the two lower cans. The pump is on a digital timer that turns on 5 minutes daily to refill to the top system. When the water in the the lower can lowers the electonic float switch opens to the RO/DI system. Notice: I have the water enter the fresh water can through a float switch just in case the solenoid gets stuck in the open position. This will keep the lower container from ever overflowing. I like turning on the pump daily so that the RO/DI system turns on for extended periods of time and is not constantly turning on and off. I collect about 4-5 gallons of water per day.

2. Gravity feed can: This can is fitted with a bulkhead and standpipe. Since the pump turns on for 5 minutes daily, I would overflow the gravity feed system very easily if the evaporation rate did not equal the fill up rate. Therefore the standpipe. When the top tank is full, water will just flow back to the frsh water tank in a loop fashion. The pump would be on for 15 minutes and it would not matter. The bottom of the gravity feed can is outfitted with a bulkhead that is reduced down to 1/4" tubing. This tube leads to the float valve in the sump.

Note: during normal operation the ball valve on the lower right is open and the left one is closed.

3. Salt water can: All this can has is a bulkhead fitting in the bottom and is connected to the fresh water can through a ball valve followed by a T. Normally this ball valve is in the closed position. There are two ways to fill up the salt water can. Firstly, open both ball valves and the water will equalize. The RO/DI system will stay on until both cans are full. Or keep the left ball valve closed and pump the water from the fresh to the salt. Since the fresh and salt are the same size, you can never overfill the salt--unless there is already water in it.

To make up salt water: Fill up the saltwater can. Move the plastic flexible line (from the pump) from the gravity feed can to the salt water can. Close off the ball valve to the fresh water (right) and open the left ball vavle. Turn on the pump and add salt. You now have a closed loop for the salt water make up. Leaving the pump on for a few hours warms the water up to 80F and makes the water homogeneous and warm.

I siphon water out of the bucket in my sump (where all the water returns from the overflows). At the same time I pump water back into the main sump.

The only failure point of the system is the float valve in the sump. If this failed, then I could endup with an extra 20 gallons of fresh water in the sump. But the more water that enters the sump, the more pressure will be on the float valve.

Final notes: Have had this system in operation in one form or another for 4+ years. In my old system, I did not have the ability to drain water from the gravity feed system back to the fresh water system. This led to numerous overflows. The can-over-can with standpip approach has been in operation since I moved over two years ago.

Hopefully this helps some one.

Just some less random thoughts.

ken


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Unread 04/14/2004, 07:23 AM   #36
J19M
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I got my Acrylic here: www.norvaplastics.com

I bought some acrylic on ebay from him. Then asked about some Acrylic tubing. He will sell it by the foot too.

Good guy to deal with.


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30 Gallon River Tank (wifes class room)
55 Gallon River tank
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Unread 05/28/2004, 12:28 PM   #37
Carl_in_Florida
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Quote:
Originally posted by Doppler
Where can I get venturi valves for DIY skimmer?
Bump for answer


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Unread 06/14/2004, 07:47 AM   #38
Mr.Jingles
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weld-on

Ive been looking for weldon #3,4 and 16 and the places I've been to have said I need to place a minimum order. anyone know of a reasonable store for me to purchase inexpensive weldon?


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Current Tank Info: 55 gallon mudskipper tank, developing (sep '03) 30 reef tank
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Unread 06/14/2004, 04:17 PM   #39
neo1013
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weld on

go to tap plastics.com, I got 1 can at a time from them


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Current Tank Info: 125 Acrylic tank, full reef, 45g sump/fuge, Custom built recirc skimmer, dual 175w mh lights w/ atinic T5
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Unread 06/16/2004, 06:21 PM   #40
Mr.Jingles
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k, sweet. thanks.


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Christian

Current Tank Info: 55 gallon mudskipper tank, developing (sep '03) 30 reef tank
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Unread 07/05/2004, 07:32 PM   #41
wildangel_04
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Anyone know where i can get a strip heater to bend the acrylic that's 3/8 to 1/2 thick and will make 3/4 bends?

please give me a link if you know, or a place in so. Cal, thanks!


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Unread 08/27/2004, 03:42 PM   #42
starting_dude
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Agoog read on MH components for people who are just starting ..
http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty/...hlighting.html


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29 G bow front
20#LR
40# Aragonite sand
Remora skimmer
1 Powerhead
Status (6/19): 0 Amo, 0 Nitrite, 5 Nitrate

Current Tank Info: 29G-Bowfront,20#LR

Last edited by Dino; 04/07/2014 at 06:09 AM.
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Unread 09/15/2004, 07:00 PM   #43
MarkS
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For a supplier, Aquatic Eco-Systems.

If you know what you need, they'll have it. If you don't know what you need, you'll still be able to find it.


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Unread 09/22/2004, 03:56 PM   #44
ihavtats29
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just wanted to add a supplier lucite international basicly thats where all those plastics companys get thier acrylic from


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Unread 09/22/2004, 04:18 PM   #45
sharemaster
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Ok Guys I know this is mainly American but I'm on the other side of the reef in The U.K has anybody got any good links for this side of the world??
thanks

Empty tank at mo newbie starting out!!


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Unread 10/08/2004, 11:25 PM   #46
HUFF_32
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I'm building a canopy for my 55 gal. 48x13x18. I want to mount lights and fans in the canopy anyone know where I can get plans on the best way to set this up my lighting is VHO tubes Any suggestions would be helpful Thanks


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Unread 10/30/2004, 08:00 AM   #47
aroundtuit
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Here's some good DIY plans. Granted the site is about freshwater (cichlids), but there are still some good ideas and plans.

Cichlid Forum DIY pages


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Current Tank Info: 110 G Fresh water - 125 Gal Reef not set up yet.
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Unread 01/11/2005, 01:37 PM   #48
kakan
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Anyone know a good place to get costum cut acrylic.


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Current Tank Info: 90g AGA Mixed Reef, 20g sump, Eheim 1260 Return, ER RS180, Reeflow dart & OM 4way, 2x250w MH, RK2 Controler
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Unread 01/18/2005, 11:47 AM   #49
wilthompson
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ok, read the entire diy area, but never saw anything about where to get glass...please inform the uninformed! thanx


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Going slow and learning lots!!

Current Tank Info: FOWLR...haven't gotten the courage to step up to a reef tank yet...36 Gal Bow front
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Unread 01/28/2005, 07:02 PM   #50
TAMU Reef
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Where is the best place to find 6" OD acrylic tubes 2' in length online?

TAMUREEF


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