Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them

[BeachBum2012]

Originally Posted by ericarenee

NO Booster pump. i have 85 psi water pressure and my RO is connected at the main.. NO Pressure tank. You only need that if you are going to plumb your ro system to a spigot .

My Ro/di unit is
1 Pre filter.
1 5 micron
1 1 micoron
2 carbon blocks
Dual Membrane
Dual DI Resin Filters.
I also have a Auto shut off connected to float switch in the first of the 3 tanks There is also a T going off that tank to my ATO Tank. But I completely shut down the COMPLETE RO SYSTEM when i am not making water.. Do not let your ro auto shut off be your ATO....


Hope this helps.. ohh you only need a booster pump if you are not getting enough water pressure for your RO SYSTEM..

So, if I understand, you have a T for the RO to either go to the RO holding tank or through the DI resin?

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[ericarenee]

Originally Posted by BeachBum2012

So, if I understand, you have a T for the RO to either go to the RO holding tank or through the DI resin?

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Yes .. Before the Di canisters there is a T it goes to a float switch in top of the Ro water tank.. Then after the Di canisters there is hose that goes to the ro/di tank and to my Ato each also have a simple float switch close to the top..

the Auto shut off on the whole system will only work once all the tanks are full.. When it works.

[BeachBum2012]

Originally Posted by ericarenee

Yes .. Before the Di canisters there is a T it goes to a float switch in top of the Ro water tank.. Then after the Di canisters there is hose that goes to the ro/di tank and to my Ato each also have a simple float switch close to the top..

the Auto shut off on the whole system will only work once all the tanks are full.. When it works.

Got it! Thanks a ton. That's the part that I couldn't quite wrap my head around. Of course it's way easier than I was making it in my mind.

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[ImRod]

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[ImRod]

Originally Posted by ImRod

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This is a mixing , and it also a water change , and put back station


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[ImRod]

Originally Posted by ImRod

This is a mixing , and it also a water change , and put back station


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Our 150 is auto , the two values on the left is so that I can also make five gl for our bio cube water change and a value for RODI top off for the bio cube, two values mix , two values take out % off water change from the 150 and two values put it back in.


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[TheWB]

Has anyone ever tried to cycle the waste water back through the ro/di system a second time to avoid having so much excess water? Maybe by using a booster pump connected to a drain or something? I like the idea of making and mixing my own water but the amount of wastewater that gets produced is problematic, I just don't want to store that much water waiting to water plants and whatnot so it doesn't just go down a drain. Am I being unrealistic with this idea or has someone actually done it. I searched but didn't see a thread.

[Vinny Kreyling]

It is usually done with dual membranes.
Think about a 2/1 water ratio instead of 4/1.
This is done by a kit sold by Spectrapure & most likely others here on RC.

[TheWB]

Originally Posted by Vinny Kreyling

It is usually done with dual membranes.
Think about a 2/1 water ratio instead of 4/1.
This is done by a kit sold by Spectrapure & most likely others here on RC.

Thanks for the response. I've seen those setups with the dual membranes and if I go that route I'm sure that's what I will buy. What I'm really wondering though, is if anyone has incorporated a pump or some other method to actually take the wastewater from a storage tank and put it back through the system again to try and use up as much of the wastewater as possible. That might be too much trouble but if anyone has attempted it I'd love to hear about how they did it and whether the results were worth it.

[fishresponse]

Originally Posted by TheWB

Thanks for the response. I've seen those setups with the dual membranes and if I go that route I'm sure that's what I will buy. What I'm really wondering though, is if anyone has incorporated a pump or some other method to actually take the wastewater from a storage tank and put it back through the system again to try and use up as much of the wastewater as possible. That might be too much trouble but if anyone has attempted it I'd love to hear about how they did it and whether the results were worth it.

I would say that if you measure the TDS from your waste water and compare it to your tap water, that would tell you if it's really worth your while. If it's higher from the waste line, than probably direct it off into your yard so it's not just running down your drain.

[TheWB]

Originally Posted by fishresponse

I would say that if you measure the TDS from your waste water and compare it to your tap water, that would tell you if it's really worth your while. If it's higher from the waste line, than probably direct it off into your yard so it's not just running down your drain.

Thanks for responding. I live in the Pacific Northwest so there really isn't much of a need to water my lawn with the wastewater. What I'm more interested in is if there's a way to just keep cycling the wastewater through the ro/di system so that I get all processed water suitable for using in the aquarium with very little wastewater left. I know this is weird, I'm just sort of wondering if anyone had tried to do something like that and if they were successful. I'm thinking you would have to disconnect the water supply from the ro/di unit, put a pump in a container containing the wastewater and plumb it back into the ro/di unit and let it run through its process with that water.

I'm sure I'm overthinking this whole process but I figure I'm probably not the first person to come up with this idea so I thought I'd take a shot that someone on here might have tried to do it.

[fishresponse]

There are units out there that are made to have zero waste water. The problem tho is that they're very expensive. I'm sure you could try to achieve what you're describing and sounds like it would work in theory, but you would have to replenish your input water as it would become your product water.

[RWEngineer]

The TDS of the waste water will be higher than the tap water. The TDS of your product water will be higher when you add a second membrane to use the waste water from the first.

[BarIzoN]

Welcome to the real world, TheWB!

How many gallons of water you think is needed to wash a single blue jeans pants??

And for each nut you consume? How many gallons of water does that requires (per nut)?

How about a pound of beef?

It's unbelievable how much water is "wasted" in small daily things we can't imagine.

I do have an spectrapure, but didn't get the second membrane, but I also think it's a bad idea to run to the drain that water, so in the summer, I let my waste water to flow over my grass...

Winter is more complicate here in Colorado, but I'll think on something.

Also, you'll reduce your filter's life on passing again and again a high TDS water into your system. Oh, and of course, for a double membrane systems, you'll have to have more than 85 / 90 psi in your line, otherwise ot will not work well.

- BarIzoN -


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[TheWB]

Originally Posted by fishresponse

There are units out there that are made to have zero waste water. The problem tho is that they're very expensive. I'm sure you could try to achieve what you're describing and sounds like it would work in theory, but you would have to replenish your input water as it would become your product water.

Thanks Fishresponse. The higher TDS of the wastewater never occurred to me. That's the obvious reason why an RO/DI unit doesn't come with some sort of re-circulation option. I figured there must have been a reason but I couldn't think of what it was so I asked the question. I still don't like the idea of wasting that much water but at least now I won't also waste a bunch of time trying to figure out how to modify my system when that wouldn't be productive.

[Rpogge2]

FYI ruralking has 12% rebate sitewide right now for laborday weekend. Free shipping + 12% rebate on tanks isnt a bad deal.

[bitwise]

What's the point of the valve above the pump in the line going from the pump to the top of the SW container? Is this to control flow rate?

[BeachBum2012]

Originally Posted by bitwise

What's the point of the valve above the pump in the line going from the pump to the top of the SW container? Is this to control flow rate?

If it is a true union ball valve and there is one before and after the pump it can be used to close off the pipe and remove the pump for maintenance, etc. Without having to drain anything.

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[LefkoNJ]

IMG_2472.jpg

Just finished setting mine up this weekend. I am using gravity to feed the RODI into the Salt Water container below. I then have the APEX DOS running my AWC.

[Lilbitreefer]

This is my entry way closet. The hubby let me take it over. Hehehe and he did the plumbing, he’s not into fish so I guess he loves me.


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[Misled]

PB links repaired where possible.

[Thornbreaker]

Is the ball valve that some of y'all use on your outlet end of a pump just for flow control?

I"m referring to the double water tank set ups with the pump usually in between the water tanks.

[Thornbreaker]

Originally Posted by FLSharkvic

Here is a shot of all my plumbing parts, Cepex Ball Vales and I will have two Spears True Union check valves as well on each side before the water hits the tee that will go into my PanWorld px40.

I am going with Two 25 gallon Ace Moto Vertical Storge Containers with lids with two 3/4'' buclkHeads. which i PICKED UP @ RuralKing for 65.00 a pcs with FREE SHIPPING. Every other place like Plastic-Mart, Tank Depot wanted more in shipping then the barrel. This time I'm going with Sch 40 BLUE pipe instead of the red I used on my station. Ones I am done with my station it will somewhat look like this one, see pix # 3. The only difference between mine will be it will have an extra Cepex ball valve on each side, incase I need to get a couple of gallons out of my fresh or saltwater barells.

What's the fittings for the bulkheads that is used in pic #3? I"ve got two 40 gallon ace moto's with a panworld 50px-x. Bulkheads are 3/4", but pump is 1" inlet/outlet.

[Thornbreaker]

Scratch the last couple of posts.

This is what I've done so far. Everything is dry fitted at this point. Will this set up work?

I added the tee and spout last minute so I can pump to the sump for water changes. Originally I was just going to gravity flow, but assuming the tee/spout works, do I even need the ball valves on each end at the bottom? Maybe just the right side for rodi water?

Salt water in the left and rodi water will be in on the right tank.

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[vanburen]

Well your end ball valves will let you drain the tanks to somewhere.

I rigged a bottom mix line on my salt tank as well to stir up salt.
You may want an easy way to get RO out for mixing additives etc. I use a siphon hose but a small faucet would have been cleaner.


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