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06/17/2018, 09:29 AM | #9726 | |
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My open channel, its taller than the siphon pipe. It has the water level about 1/4 the way up on the horizontal part. Maybe this will help. One other note; My C2C box is 12" deep. I could have made the water level deeper in the box by making taller pipes. Which would have made the weir drop less. This would have made it a little quieter. Maybe a redo down the road.
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Tank sizes, 2-10's a 55 and one that's about 500gal Current Tank Info: Interior decorating happening |
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06/17/2018, 09:40 AM | #9727 |
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^^ yep... open the gate valve on the full siphon until water only trickles through the open channel.. or if you want to keep water in the overflow at 3/4, then simply raise the inlet of the open channel so that water only trickles.
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06/17/2018, 09:43 AM | #9728 | |
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Quote:
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06/17/2018, 09:46 AM | #9729 |
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Thanks guys. That’s fixed that noise.
Anyone got any tips to reduce the noise as the water passes through the bulkhead connecting the tank to the box? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
06/17/2018, 09:58 AM | #9730 | |
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Quote:
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06/17/2018, 12:31 PM | #9731 |
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Yea, I find it to be quiet when the water level is about 1/2 way up the bulkheads. In your case u may have to raise the standpipe for the open channel. If u raise the water level u will be back to where u started with the open channel taking to much water. So u will have to raise the standpipe & the water level
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06/17/2018, 12:41 PM | #9732 |
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A good way to test it out is to raise the standpipe for the open channel to where it isn’t taking any water at all. Then slowly raise the water level inside of the box until u can’t hear the water passing through the bulkheads. Then u will know where the water level will need to be so u will know where u need to set the height of the open channel. The higher the flow the higher the water level will have to be, but I find it is usually about 1/2 way up the bulkheads.
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06/17/2018, 12:52 PM | #9733 | |
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If u go a full c2c u will have to go over the top with the returns. U can route them through the overflow box but then u would have to make the overflow box bigger to be able to do so. I always stop my over box 4” or so from both ends of the tank & drill my returns in that area. To me it also looks better if u can view the tank from the end panel. So u would need a 4 sided box instead of a L shape box. For example, if the tank is 48” long make the overflow box 40” long & leave 4” on both ends for the returns. |
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06/17/2018, 06:32 PM | #9734 |
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If I raise the height of the siphon drain inside the box. Will that help me raise the water level height?
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06/17/2018, 06:39 PM | #9735 |
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06/17/2018, 06:55 PM | #9736 | |
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Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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Intelligence is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing not to put it in a fruit salad Current Tank Info: 75g mixed reef |
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06/17/2018, 07:00 PM | #9737 | |
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06/17/2018, 09:32 PM | #9738 | |
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It seems that I have to have the water level quite high in order to limit the noise from the pass through bulkhead. It’s around 3/4 of the diameter of the pass through bh. (See pics) is this okay? The issue is that the open channel sits so high that I will need to remove the air line for it to fit. I’ve since removed this JG fitting from the top and left it as an open hole, will it be okay left like this? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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06/17/2018, 09:45 PM | #9739 |
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Yes, that's perfectly fine,
Mine sits under the water and is 100% quiet.
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06/17/2018, 10:33 PM | #9740 |
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As long as the water inside of the box doesn’t build up enough to cover the hole on startup it shouldn’t be a problem. If the hole gets submerged on startup it will empty the box before there’s enough pressure to purge the air from the syphon. If that happens u can install the j guest fitting back into the 90 & that will by u a little more room on startup.
I would rather not use the fitting in your scenario, so if the hole doesn’t get submerged on startup I would leave it how it is without the fitting. The airline itself isn’t a must on a exterior box like u have. They are a must with a interior box like bean used when he designed the setup |
06/23/2018, 05:13 PM | #9741 |
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Hey guys. I recently purchased a 210 reef ready tank which uses the old durso overflow. I will have my sump in the basement directly below the tank. This would be ~11' drop. I'd like to convert this to the AnimalBean overflow. It is the typical 2 overflows on the back...each with 2 - 1" bulk heads. Does anyone think that I can just convert this to the AnimalBean system? Run one 1" hole as the return, the hole next to it as the primary, then the other 2 - 1" holes as the secondary and emergency? I'm thinking 1" return and all 3 drains @ 1.25". The pump in the basement is a ReeFlo Dart/Snapper.
Edit: I think I just answered my own question...the second overflow would make this a non option. Time to drill baby, drill. Last edited by Camarofish; 06/23/2018 at 05:20 PM. Reason: Derp |
06/23/2018, 05:19 PM | #9742 | |
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There would be no benefit of 1.25” drains if the bulkheads are 1”. Other than that, you can setup a bean animal system as long as you have 3 drains. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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06/23/2018, 09:24 PM | #9743 | |
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So you're stuck with having to drill or you can research the Herbie overflow system. It only requires 2 drains and is just as quiet. The only down side is that it uses 2 drains, the second drain takes on the task of the open and emergency. Perhaps having 2 sets of herbie will be a lot of redundancy (which is why the bean animal is so popular), not sure how hard it would be to dial in 2 full siphons that share the load, but it will prevent you fro drilling.
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06/23/2018, 09:57 PM | #9744 | |
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So, I'm thinking doing a coast-to-coast with the BeanAnimal overflow. Do you think that 1.25 spaflex is okay or should I opt for the 1.5"? I would imagine that a 1" return is adequate? |
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06/23/2018, 10:00 PM | #9745 | |
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06/23/2018, 10:49 PM | #9746 | |
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Although I think that herbie design will offer great protection from a flood, you just wont have that failsafe of the failsafe. But if it were me, I would drill the tank and be part of the bean animal club!!! hehe.
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06/24/2018, 10:58 AM | #9747 |
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So, attached is my preliminary plan. Not sure if I'm still going to flow with 1.25" or go with 1.5". At this point I bought all of the 1.25" Spaflex, but can return it for bigger. This is not to scale and I'm no designer, but if anyone sees any flaws, constructive criticism is welcome.
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06/24/2018, 11:00 AM | #9748 | |
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Looks good! Why do you have a gate and ball valve on the full siphon line? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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06/24/2018, 11:16 AM | #9749 | |
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06/24/2018, 11:22 AM | #9750 | |
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You can accomplish the same thing by just shutting off your return pump for maintenance. Once the siphon breaks you won’t have any water coming out and you can isconnect at the Union without having to retune your drain Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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beananimal, plumbing |
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