New Tank Build

travis32 · 04/23/2018, 07:26 AM

Well, I received my aquarium from Customaquariums.com using a steel stand and the aquarium is approximately 333 gallons. 69 Inches long, 31" tall, and 36" wide.

I'm going to use their H20 Overflow stealth box overflow system that increases tank space and eliminates the need for corner overflows!

The tank was all pre-drilled with 1.5" overflows (and fittings) And 2 1/2 inch return lines.

I'm planning to build a manifold into the plumbing to potentially provide a turf scrubber at some point, and/or for any other reactors etc I need down the line. With 4 outputs, 1 to the tank for a return, and 3 auxilary outputs.

My question (to start) is the two returns are inside diameter of 1/2". The overflows are 1.5 Inch. My return pump is an external barracuda pump with 1.5" plumbing. So, at what point on the return do I reduce down to 1/2" plumbing and / or do I go down gradually? A few feet of 1" then down to 1/2" when I split it off into two outputs?

It came with the 1/2" hose barbs. So, I'm planning to use PVC until I split the lines. THen use a Y fitting with 1/2" hose barbs on one side and 1" or 1.5" fitting on the connecting side. And use flex hose on the two lines going to the tank.

It seems to me like reducing the returns this much would pressurize the waterflow?

On the overflow side I'm going to merge the two 1.5" lines into one 1.5" line as well as I have around 15-20 foot runs to the sump.

I can't really change the 1/2" returns to be larger, unless I drill them out further, which I'm not really willing to do. Just seems odd to me that the combined size of the returns is smaller than the overflow, but maybe that's just the paranoid side of me?

azsoccerpop · 04/23/2018, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travis32

Well, I received my aquarium from Customaquariums.com using a steel stand and the aquarium is approximately 333 gallons. 69 Inches long, 31" tall, and 36" wide.

I'm going to use their H20 Overflow stealth box overflow system that increases tank space and eliminates the need for corner overflows!

The tank was all pre-drilled with 1.5" overflows (and fittings) And 2 1/2 inch return lines.

I'm planning to build a manifold into the plumbing to potentially provide a turf scrubber at some point, and/or for any other reactors etc I need down the line. With 4 outputs, 1 to the tank for a return, and 3 auxilary outputs.

My question (to start) is the two returns are inside diameter of 1/2". The overflows are 1.5 Inch. My return pump is an external barracuda pump with 1.5" plumbing. So, at what point on the return do I reduce down to 1/2" plumbing and / or do I go down gradually? A few feet of 1" then down to 1/2" when I split it off into two outputs?

It came with the 1/2" hose barbs. So, I'm planning to use PVC until I split the lines. THen use a Y fitting with 1/2" hose barbs on one side and 1" or 1.5" fitting on the connecting side. And use flex hose on the two lines going to the tank.

It seems to me like reducing the returns this much would pressurize the waterflow?

On the overflow side I'm going to merge the two 1.5" lines into one 1.5" line as well as I have around 15-20 foot runs to the sump.

I can't really change the 1/2" returns to be larger, unless I drill them out further, which I'm not really willing to do. Just seems odd to me that the combined size of the returns is smaller than the overflow, but maybe that's just the paranoid side of me?

I am in a similar situation with 2 3/4 bulkheads to locline in the tank. I plan on hard plumbing 1-1/4" as far as I can go and then at the centered T split I will continue up with 3/4" pvc to the 2 bulkheads. I have the apex FMM on my current tanks return now and it is amazing how much lose there is from what a pump is rated.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

travis32 · 04/23/2018, 08:46 AM

Thank you azsoccerpop,

I figured this is by design from the manufacturer. So I assume it would be o.k. but, i did't want to end up with water spraying everywhere either due to pressurization inside flex tubing. I think I'll just use a Y connector then that has 2 x 1/2" outlets down directly from 1.5". Each return I'll install gate valves so I can dial in the flow as needed.

With a manifold on my return lines to other devices, and /or maybe even cycling water back to one of my filtration containers to reduce pressure if needed, I'll be able to dial in the flow pretty well. I'm guessing there will be a lot of head loss on the manifold itself if there's two to three valves open.

azsoccerpop · 04/23/2018, 09:05 AM

I am debating putting a second submersible pump to run only the manifold. In fact I am buying a new sump so that I have space for that option(along with any other rationale I can come up with for my spouse...). My current system runs all off one and again based on the FMM on a submersible DC pump rated for 1600 gph I am pushing a combined 200 GPH through a UV and GFO reactor and only 355 GPH to the tank. I am toying with the concepts of the Triton method which starts off with a recommended 10x turnover. I would think your external pump has a far better head pressure rating then my DC. Is your locline 3/4" I would hope you could run 2x 3/4" PVC and not 1/2" figuring that your total diameter into the tank is constant although split. Most tanks use 3/4" loc-line on returns. Also schedule 40 PVC will have a larger ID vs schedule 80.

travis32 · 04/23/2018, 09:38 AM

I'd have to measure the locline. Not sure.

Yeah, this pump is a work horse. I had this pump pushing water from my basement through 1.5" through about 40-50 feet of level pvc, then the total vertical push was about 20 feet. So, a total pipe run of about 60 feet. With multiple elbows in the run. And I still had almost too much flow coming out of the return loclines (split into two locline returns from the two returns, so 4 outputs.) on my previous tank.

On this new tank at this new house, I'm reducing the total run down to maybe 15 feet, with only 5 feet of it (at most) being vertical... I'm going to need to split the return off into multiple locations to reduce the flow. I'll have valves on the returns as I never know when I'll need them, but, I don't think it's good to put that pressure on the pump....

azsoccerpop · 04/23/2018, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travis32

I'd have to measure the locline. Not sure.

Yeah, this pump is a work horse. I had this pump pushing water from my basement through 1.5" through about 40-50 feet of level pvc, then the total vertical push was about 20 feet. So, a total pipe run of about 60 feet. With multiple elbows in the run. And I still had almost too much flow coming out of the return loclines (split into two locline returns from the two returns, so 4 outputs.) on my previous tank.

On this new tank at this new house, I'm reducing the total run down to maybe 15 feet, with only 5 feet of it (at most) being vertical... I'm going to need to split the return off into multiple locations to reduce the flow. I'll have valves on the returns as I never know when I'll need them, but, I don't think it's good to put that pressure on the pump....

Agreed on the back pressure. I have read the acceptable method is to put a regulated bypass that feeds back to the sump. Pump still runs normally but you can control the total to the tank

travis32 · 04/23/2018, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azsoccerpop

Agreed on the back pressure. I have read the acceptable method is to put a regulated bypass that feeds back to the sump. Pump still runs normally but you can control the total to the tank

Exactly what I was thinking. I might run it to an Algae Scrubber then to the sump and then control the flow to the scrubber.

04/23/2018, 07:26 AM	#1
travis32 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: West Fargo, ND Posts: 2,161	New Tank Build Well, I received my aquarium from Customaquariums.com using a steel stand and the aquarium is approximately 333 gallons. 69 Inches long, 31" tall, and 36" wide. I'm going to use their H20 Overflow stealth box overflow system that increases tank space and eliminates the need for corner overflows! The tank was all pre-drilled with 1.5" overflows (and fittings) And 2 1/2 inch return lines. I'm planning to build a manifold into the plumbing to potentially provide a turf scrubber at some point, and/or for any other reactors etc I need down the line. With 4 outputs, 1 to the tank for a return, and 3 auxilary outputs. My question (to start) is the two returns are inside diameter of 1/2". The overflows are 1.5 Inch. My return pump is an external barracuda pump with 1.5" plumbing. So, at what point on the return do I reduce down to 1/2" plumbing and / or do I go down gradually? A few feet of 1" then down to 1/2" when I split it off into two outputs? It came with the 1/2" hose barbs. So, I'm planning to use PVC until I split the lines. THen use a Y fitting with 1/2" hose barbs on one side and 1" or 1.5" fitting on the connecting side. And use flex hose on the two lines going to the tank. It seems to me like reducing the returns this much would pressurize the waterflow? On the overflow side I'm going to merge the two 1.5" lines into one 1.5" line as well as I have around 15-20 foot runs to the sump. I can't really change the 1/2" returns to be larger, unless I drill them out further, which I'm not really willing to do. Just seems odd to me that the combined size of the returns is smaller than the overflow, but maybe that's just the paranoid side of me?

04/23/2018, 08:46 AM	#3
travis32 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: West Fargo, ND Posts: 2,161	Thank you azsoccerpop, I figured this is by design from the manufacturer. So I assume it would be o.k. but, i did't want to end up with water spraying everywhere either due to pressurization inside flex tubing. I think I'll just use a Y connector then that has 2 x 1/2" outlets down directly from 1.5". Each return I'll install gate valves so I can dial in the flow as needed. With a manifold on my return lines to other devices, and /or maybe even cycling water back to one of my filtration containers to reduce pressure if needed, I'll be able to dial in the flow pretty well. I'm guessing there will be a lot of head loss on the manifold itself if there's two to three valves open.

04/23/2018, 09:05 AM	#4
azsoccerpop Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Gilbert, Az Posts: 232	I am debating putting a second submersible pump to run only the manifold. In fact I am buying a new sump so that I have space for that option(along with any other rationale I can come up with for my spouse...). My current system runs all off one and again based on the FMM on a submersible DC pump rated for 1600 gph I am pushing a combined 200 GPH through a UV and GFO reactor and only 355 GPH to the tank. I am toying with the concepts of the Triton method which starts off with a recommended 10x turnover. I would think your external pump has a far better head pressure rating then my DC. Is your locline 3/4" I would hope you could run 2x 3/4" PVC and not 1/2" figuring that your total diameter into the tank is constant although split. Most tanks use 3/4" loc-line on returns. Also schedule 40 PVC will have a larger ID vs schedule 80.

04/23/2018, 09:38 AM	#5
travis32 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: West Fargo, ND Posts: 2,161	I'd have to measure the locline. Not sure. Yeah, this pump is a work horse. I had this pump pushing water from my basement through 1.5" through about 40-50 feet of level pvc, then the total vertical push was about 20 feet. So, a total pipe run of about 60 feet. With multiple elbows in the run. And I still had almost too much flow coming out of the return loclines (split into two locline returns from the two returns, so 4 outputs.) on my previous tank. On this new tank at this new house, I'm reducing the total run down to maybe 15 feet, with only 5 feet of it (at most) being vertical... I'm going to need to split the return off into multiple locations to reduce the flow. I'll have valves on the returns as I never know when I'll need them, but, I don't think it's good to put that pressure on the pump....