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Unread 03/10/2018, 05:28 PM   #1
Sohal Tang Tim
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Question Best way to hook up ro unit?

Hi Guys, my RO unit will be downstairs but my reservoir and mixing tanks will be upstairs... I dont want to have to run downstairs to turn the RO unit on...I want to be able to, with the use of a john guest fitting, turn the RO on from my desk upstairs... QUESTION: I am worried about a plastic thing like John Guest failing and flooding house! I also dont trust float switches....
What is best fail safe way? TUnze Osomolator into the RO Reservoir
and then leaving the RO unit in the ON position?


Thx for your input and suggestions

Tim


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Unread 03/10/2018, 08:00 PM   #2
BrettDS
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If you install an auto shut off valve (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/1-4-a...off-valve.html )on your RODI filter then when you use a valve to turn off the water it produces the auto shut off valve shuts off pressure to the whole RODI unit. Without this valve then turning off the production water wouldn’t stop the filter and water would continually pass through the waste water drain.

But with one of these valves you could simply install a manual shut off valve (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-l...h-connect.html ) and turn it on and off from your desk as you wish.


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Unread 03/10/2018, 08:04 PM   #3
Sohal Tang Tim
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Thanks a million Brett...is that manual shut off value better quality then say a John Guest fitting in your opinion?
It would be the 1/4 " I need to order for the RO line right?


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Unread 03/10/2018, 08:08 PM   #4
Sohal Tang Tim
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Thx again Brett


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Unread 03/10/2018, 08:12 PM   #5
BrettDS
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The John guest fitting is simply the push in style connection. The valves I linked to use John guest style fittings.

That said, I have have had several john guest style connections under pressure continually for nearly 2 years at this point and so far they haven’t failed. I believe they are safe to use.


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Unread 03/10/2018, 08:13 PM   #6
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Yes, most RODI units use 1/4 inch tubing.


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Unread 03/10/2018, 08:18 PM   #7
Dsekula
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There are also water sensors you can wire in to open or close circuits. You would for example place the sensor on the floor near the valve. If the sensor gets wet it does the action you wired it to do such as close the valve for the top off. Just a backup idea

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Unread 03/10/2018, 08:46 PM   #8
Sohal Tang Tim
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Thanks again gents....Dsekula do you have an example of that valve that the circuit would close and the sensor too etc? Have you used one? IF so...which one from where?
Thanks, Tim


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Unread 03/12/2018, 12:51 AM   #9
Dsekula
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sohal Tang Tim View Post
Thanks again gents....Dsekula do you have an example of that valve that the circuit would close and the sensor too etc? Have you used one? IF so...which one from where?
Thanks, Tim
I have but for water plants to ensure water doesn't flood the vfd if the sump dies, ours hook into a sensaphone auto call system and get wired into backup pumps. I saw some similar ideas on bulk reef though but haven't tested these personality (I think Apex made one, maybe?) the basic idea is to get a electronic valve that's plugged into the sensor if the sensor is wet the circuit is opened closing the valve. There are also simple versions where an alarm will just go off (no valve closing) I'm sure someones made a smart one somewhere if that's your thing
I'd ask around for ones specific to the hobby, basement detection in home improvement stores, or plumbing suppliers and compair. I believe the ones we use are made by hach company.
Sorry I can't give more details but these do exist and are worth considering if your nervous.


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Unread 03/12/2018, 01:00 AM   #10
Dsekula
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dsekula View Post
I have but for water plants to ensure water doesn't flood the vfd if the sump dies, ours hook into a sensaphone auto call system and get wired into backup pumps. I saw some similar ideas on bulk reef though but haven't tested these personality (I think Apex made one, maybe?) the basic idea is to get a electronic valve that's plugged into the sensor if the sensor is wet the circuit is opened closing the valve. There are also simple versions where an alarm will just go off (no valve closing) I'm sure someones made a smart one somewhere if that's your thing
I'd ask around for ones specific to the hobby, basement detection in home improvement stores, or plumbing suppliers and compair. I believe the ones we use are made by hach company.
Sorry I can't give more details but these do exist and are worth considering if your nervous.


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Auctually here's the type of set up I'm talking about, this is sold as a "FloodSafe Water Heater Leak Detector And Shutoff". I haven't used this product but you can get an idea what to look for. Buy a good reputable company your comfortable with and you should be fine it's not a super advanced piece of equipment.8279.jpg

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Unread 03/12/2018, 04:56 AM   #11
Sohal Tang Tim
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Thanks Spiny!

Thanks Dsekula


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Unread 03/12/2018, 09:32 AM   #12
Kevin Guthrie
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Just to add, I have a 20 year old shutoff installed on my reservoir. It has worked flawlessly. Brand name was Kent and at the time it ran about $50. I highly recommend it.

It has two units. My reservoir is a large wastebasket with a hole drilled in the side near the top. The float switch unit installs into the hole via a bulkhead fitting, and the RO/DI output line installs on the outside. When the reservoir fills, the float rises and cuts off the entry of water into the reservoir. You can use a manual ball valve instead but first time you forget to close it you will buy a float.

The second unit is installed on the RO/DI system. They call it a solenoid but it is not electric. The RO/DI input plumbs thru it, as does the line (via a tee) that goes to the float switch. When it senses back pressure caused by the float, it shuts of the water going into the RO/DI. It doesn't matter if the back pressure comes from a float shutoff or a manual ball valve.

I bought them as a set but you can also buy them separately.


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Unread 03/12/2018, 09:49 AM   #13
Sohal Tang Tim
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Hi Kevin, I assume your RO unit is turned ON all the time and therefore if that float switch happens to fail...then...you would have a flood bad right?


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Unread 03/12/2018, 12:18 PM   #14
Vinny Kreyling
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I use John Guest fittings too as do a lot of reefers.
If I wanted to do what you are proposing I would put a valve in the line near your desk.
When I did maintenance we use float valves all the time for RO units.
Do a water change from the reservoir & restart the RO & it's full for next month.
The only flood I know of was from a broken canister on the unit itself.


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Unread 03/12/2018, 12:20 PM   #15
Sohal Tang Tim
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Thanks Vinny!


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Unread 03/12/2018, 04:49 PM   #16
Kevin Guthrie
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@Sohal Tim, the answer is yes, pressurized water is going to the solenoid 24/7/365. Worst failure case would be always on, causing the bucket to overflow at several gph.

But 20 years is a great record. I cant think of anything else in my reef system that has a moving part that has lasted as long... maybe a couple of outlet timers. Anyway, the human failure rate of forgetting to turn off the valve is orders of magnitude worse.


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Unread 03/12/2018, 04:51 PM   #17
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It occurs to me you could run an overflow drain back to the basement from the bucket, thru a bulkhead that is higher than the float valve shutoff level.


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Unread 03/12/2018, 08:57 PM   #18
Sohal Tang Tim
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Thanks Kev!


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Unread 03/13/2018, 08:47 AM   #19
Dsekula
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Guthrie View Post
@Sohal Tim, the answer is yes, pressurized water is going to the solenoid 24/7/365. Worst failure case would be always on, causing the bucket to overflow at several gph.

But 20 years is a great record. I cant think of anything else in my reef system that has a moving part that has lasted as long... maybe a couple of outlet timers. Anyway, the human failure rate of forgetting to turn off the valve is orders of magnitude worse.
+1 on this, my mixing and water reserve is located in my basement next to a floor drain. I have ball valves on my 1/4" lines but they are also plumbed into floats because I'm just not that good

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Unread 03/13/2018, 10:08 AM   #20
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Just want to add on point to water leak sensor...Most sensor work with the principle of water closing the loop between 2 copper wire...But the issue here is that distilled/RODI water is not the more conductive element on earth. Unless you put some salt or something around the sensor to mix with water in case of flood, it wont work as it was not conceived for this purpose


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Unread 03/13/2018, 03:16 PM   #21
Dsekula
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gargoylenest View Post
Just want to add on point to water leak sensor...Most sensor work with the principle of water closing the loop between 2 copper wire...But the issue here is that distilled/RODI water is not the more conductive element on earth. Unless you put some salt or something around the sensor to mix with water in case of flood, it wont work as it was not conceived for this purpose
Oh wow that's a good point +1, didn't think of that.
I'd be testing it before relying on it and probably every few months just to ensure it still works anyway. Now I'm interested to hear if anyone had issues using theirs in rodi or if someone with more electrical science background knows the answer to this.

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Unread 03/15/2018, 07:36 AM   #22
gargoylenest
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I do have tested it, and I do have 15 years electronic background


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Unread 03/17/2018, 09:36 PM   #23
Dsekula
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Quote:
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I do have tested it, and I do have 15 years electronic background
What about ones specificly made for this stuff, for instance for reefers by Apex? None of these would work with rodi water? Is there a type you would recommend for this type of use besides the salt addition?

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Unread 03/18/2018, 06:25 AM   #24
ryeguyy84
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I added a solenoid valve to my rodi and programed it to open the valve for an hour a day to fill top off reserve in the basement. If you can get a wire to the upstairs you could flip a switch to turn the water on

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