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Old 02/13/2018, 05:47 PM   #9601
rhickman17
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 33
Sorry, I wasn't clear in my response. I didn't mean slotted, as in teeth in the weir. I don't want that. I want a smooth sheet of water coming over the edge of my internal box. When I said they "cut a slot in your side panel" I was referring to what looks like a notch cut out of the top of the pane of glass in the schematic you provided.

I want the water sheeting over a long thin internal overflow box, and for the people using internal+external overflow boxes, the consensus seems to be, once the water level is equal ~ between the internal and external box, the noise should be mitigated due to it acting as one body of water. Apparently that is achieved by the water filling the pass-through holes half way up - this answers one of my questions partially. My concern is whether 1000 gph filling the pass-throughs half way up would still be quiet.


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Old 02/13/2018, 05:52 PM   #9602
saf1
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: California
Posts: 2,104
Correct - that is what you want, and what I actually requested I just didn't get it. I'll probably remove the slots in time since they are acrylic then I'll have a smooth weir like you noted.

Quiet - yes. Once you balance the return pump to match the overflow you won't hear it. I don't. Only time I hear or notice it is after a restart from the pump being off or testing the emergency overflow. It really is dead quiet. One other thing. I used union ball valves. I think he recommends the gate valve since it is easier or more accurate to adjust.


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Current Tank Info: 40 breeder w/LEDs (Upgrade in progress. 30" H x 54" W x 30" D 240 or so gallons)
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Old 02/13/2018, 05:59 PM   #9603
rhickman17
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 33
Yes, I already have the gate valve for my setup. I'm just working out where to find the glass for the external box (which I mentioned earlier I just found locally), and making sure it will be strong enough to support the plumbing and water, as well as remain silent. It's in my living room, and I will be setting up another in my room if this setup is silent.

I know it is quite loud after the restart or when the emergency kicks on; I think I have gone through just about every YouTube video there is I'm looking forward to the internal+external setup, permitting I can keep it silent


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Old 02/13/2018, 11:16 PM   #9604
Lsufan
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Baton Rouge
Posts: 1,160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zalick View Post
Something doesn't add up. If you close the gate valve on the full siphon, your open channel will operate as intended. If you open the gate valve just a tiny amount, it cannot possibly be handling all the water of your return pump, unless your return pump is pushing out a trickle of water.
Yea, he got it figured out. What happens in a lot of cases with people having startup issues is the open channel takes most of the water causing the syphon not to be able to purge the air to get going. That is why the airline for the open channel is supposed to be above the emergency. So if anything the emergency takes a little water on startup but it still builds enough pressure to purge the air from the syphon. If the open channel kicks into syphon before the syphon purges it’s air then the syphon will never get going. It is more of a issue with back drilled tanks & interior overflow boxes. On the ghost type overflows it isn’t really a issue because of the hieght differences between the open channel & syphon standpipes.

That was partially his issue but not his main issue. His open channel was taking a bunch of water making it a little harder for the syphon to purge the air. In his case, eventually the syphon would kick in & it would drain the overflow box because the valve was needing to be closed more. The syphon wasn’t kicking in so his small adjustments wasn’t doing anything. Eventually he figured out that his main issue was that his valve needed to be closed way more then what he was doing.



Last edited by Lsufan; 02/13/2018 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 02/14/2018, 10:33 AM   #9605
October Sky
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 29
I have two questions, which should be simple.

1. When I purchased parts, I purchased 1 gate valve and 2 ball valves. At this point, I don't know why I purchased the ball valves. I was convinced I needed them for the second/third drains. Did I imagine this?

2. Is there any "proper" placement for the gate valve in terms of "distance from overflow box?" I have a simple 36" stand, 40 breeder, going to a 20 gallon sump. Can I put the gate valve in the lower compartment, or should it be mounted on the vertical downpipe? I see it done both ways, but would prefer it below so it's not against the wall and easier to reach.

Thanks.


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Old 02/16/2018, 09:13 AM   #9606
BeanAnimal
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Pittsburgh
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Technically speaking, the siphon standpipe is the only one that needs a valve. That said, I like having the versatility of valves on all three standpipes. That valve on the siphon standpipe can be down at sump level.


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Old 02/21/2018, 09:12 AM   #9607
October Sky
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Location: Upstate, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeanAnimal View Post
Technically speaking, the siphon standpipe is the only one that needs a valve. That said, I like having the versatility of valves on all three standpipes. That valve on the siphon standpipe can be down at sump level.
Thanks so much. I really don't know why I bought the extra valves, and I actually lost the first purchase somewhere in my home, so now I have 4 extra valves as soon as I find them.

I have decided on doing an algae reactor split off from my return pump, so at least one of the valves will go to good use.

As to placement of the valve on the siphon, I may need to put it up. Just finished the framing of the stand and it may be problematic where I wanted it in my head.


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Old 02/21/2018, 09:20 AM   #9608
monkiboy
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Location: washington, dc
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Advertising your sale in the main forums isn't allowed.



Last edited by Sugar Magnolia; 02/21/2018 at 10:10 AM.
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